More power? you kidding! hahahahaha you disconnect the battery when you replace the mounts? i'm sure the extra power you feel its maybe the erased adaptation in the ECU/TCU units! please confirm

Fabio Daniel

 

Nope....didn't disconnect the battery. Personally, I didn't see the point. Shrug.
I've tried the key, gas pedal reset thing and I've never really felt a difference with that.

 

wiw! hard to tell now :S i agree with you, didn't figure this to be a side benefit! but good for you & glad you have the car running great now!

Fabio Daniel

 

The engine is correctly held in it's proper place with the new mounts. (At least the driver's side.) The torque is now correctly distributed and not lost in incorrect geometry.


Did you get both tires to smoke?

 

Great info, but can someone post specifically how they broke loose the drivers side mount? Exactly what tool did you use? Was a breaker bar needed? I can only get a stubby up in there, and with the stubby, I have no leverage to break the bolt free.
Thanks

 

I am going to do this. What about the tranny mount? Does it neccessarily NEED to be replaced at the same time?

 

No. But why not do it. The tranny mount is relatively inexpensive.
When I did mine, I did all three. Easy job.

 

You are so right my friend, this bolt is a bear. I used two humans, one six point socket, a 3/8th breaker bar and a large lever like a 1 1/4" wrench. First position the socket/breaker bar on the bolt such that the breaker bar is close to the engine block, then use the lever between the engine block and the breaker bar to break the bolt free. You will probably need two people, one to make sure the socket stays on the bolt while the other moves the lever. Just the slightest movement will set you free. Use blue locktite when reinstalling the bolt.

Good luck!

 

thank you very much for that info.

 

Finally..some success. I used about a 6 or 7 inch 3/4 breaker bar and shallow 6mm socket. (I first tried a stubby ratcheting box wrench from Harbor Freight but it never seemed to sit down far enough on the bolt unless I kept a hand on top of it pressing down, so I abandoned that method and went to the breaker bar/socket).

So with a 18 inch breaker bar from harbor freight pushed up against the engine block in that area of the exhaust manifold I was able to then use the breaker bar as a lever and pry back against the breaker bar going towards the drivers side fender.

 

i just got my engine mounts done today and it feels like a new car. i can't even feel it running at idle now (in P or in gear). one of them was leaking and the other one was in pretty bad shape. i took the car to my friend's shop and he had it done in less than 30 minutes. i got the mounts from autohausaz.com and will be using them again when i need parts.

old mounts