Mpassion

Do the E55 AMG or all Mecedes from this era rust and rot due to water based paint? Would purchasing a car adopted and raised in south give half life on the metal? Many years back I had and S and E class I don't recall experiencing any of these issues although paint was mat perhaps that was precursor to rust.

I read the following reviews and was disheartend after many years of Mercedes love.

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/mer...9845/comments/

I was considering an E55 AMG as daily driver or M5.

Thanks

PS..One review reads....
The problems discussed concerning rust appearing under the paint on the rear quarter panels, seams, wheel well lip, doors and other areas of 2000 and up Mercedes Benz's is due to a combination of corrosion resulting from dissimiliar metals, lower quality metal with inadequate carbon content, poor design that does not allow moisture to escape, lack of adequate sealant and in particular lack of adequate corrosion proofing materials such as Zinc in the assembly of body panels where they are joined. Instead of addressing this thru a recall Mercedes has taken the position of non-acknowledgment and fix the problems as they occur hoping no one will notice.

CharlyE500

You have SLR S65 G500 and looking for W210 E55 for daily drive ? You got to be kidding me

thebenzbar

Sounds crazee don't it? But nothing wrong with that... If I was a gazillionaire I'd have a 997TS, F430, SLS, G55, a W109 6.3, etc... etc... and still wouldn't hesitate driving an older AMG as a daily beater. I'm dreaming.

CharlyE500

I would buy it for collection !

MR888

Leno got one along with a SLR and a garage full of others

Mpassion

The S65 has alot electric stuff that I hardly use, the G500 is pretty much offroad truck not much of a city driver. The SLR is very simple car no navigation or tons of electriconic distractions, that is what is appealing on the W210 E55 over newer ones.

An E55 AMG is one of the best cars Mercedes ever put out, and its engine hand built, very reliable detuned will reach 169mph. Rust aside, for 10-15k I can't think of a more enjoyable daily driver.

Fabio D

1+

Thinking good my friend hope you find a good one

Fabio Daniel

tsquare

++1

Brau0318

I have an 01 e320 105,000 that came from south dakota. It lived there for 8 years, then moved here to minnesota. Now south dakota doesn't use salt when plowing snow and mn does. Its been here for about a year and this is it's first winter on salty roads. I have yet to find a spec of rust on the body/wheel wells. Although I have seen other w210s with rust on the side skirts. I think a lot also has to do with preventitive measures and frequency of washes. I just saw a old c-class not sure what chassis number but probly late 90's that rusted out drivers side to the door pillars it was nasty.

MBFLO

Plenty of benz's out there with rust no matter what model. Just have to inspect very good before purchase one .Mine has couple dime n nickel size spots that havnt busted out of the paint yet . Can barely notice unless you inspect very closely but honestly it doesnt bother me .. In almost a year of driving the car as a daily driver it has got to be the best investment I've ever made 2001 e55 110k under 8 grand 2 sets of wheels , fully loaded xcept parktronic blk/blk/blk full service records . Hell I couldnt find a newer decent american car for that price .. Aside from replacing the CPS sensor the first week of purchase i have yet to have the car break down , or replace anything on it or had anything break that i know of so far .. Has been by far the best all around auto ive driven and still get compliments on it everyday , when i tell ppl its a 2001 they cant believe it . so thats gotta say something about this car ..

ESTJ

Okay, this thread got me wondering so I went on a Identify and Repair mission. Now my car has been a garage queen most of its life (albeit in Florida mostly) and only has 30K miles. I had noticed rust near the mirror on the driver’s door and had already repaired that area. Picture 1.

I also had taken off the grill previously and I found rust underneath the rubber weather shield. I removed all of the rust and used Naval Jelly to eliminate the rest, then painted that whole section with several coats of Rustoleum and then gave a coat of undercoating on top of the paint. I think this covers that area and I don't expect any more problems here. Picture 2.

Now I have removed the weather seal on the doors and I am just astonished at how Mercedes has created such a mess. Pictures 3-4. This is the worst but all doors had similar problems.

An area that I have noticed but have not yet attempted to repair is the hood near the springs. Picture 5. This again is just stupid on Mercedes part. I have a W124 300CE and the hood on it is sealed all the way, on the W210 it is sealed only half way and the rest is beginning to rust. Will fix it, just will take a little time.

Having read the HORROR stories of the front springs falling out from rust I gave that area a good inspection and then layered on some undercoating just for good measure. Picture 6.

The major flaw here is obviously the metal and the paint but also just sloppy in applying the sealant to the point where the weep holes were clogged so the water had nowhere to go, RUST.

I will be repairing these spots over the next couple of days and will post my repair pictures, any suggestions will be welcomed.

I also have rust under the rocker panel so I have attempted to remove one of the panels with no luck. There are four screws in the rear, three in the front and a bunch of the plastic snaps, however after removing all of those I am at a loss as to what to do next. Someone has to have removed these panels or knows someone that knows the trick! HELP Please!!

ESTJ

BTW, it is apparent to me that the W124 was designed and assembled by the Baby Boomers and the W210 was designed and assembled by the X Generation.

ESTJ

First off, the rust is removed by grinding, a coating of naval jelly and finally a coating of rust converter. Now that it is effectively dead and gone - Rustoleum Enamel a good and solid prevention to keep moisture and oxygen away from the high iron content steel Mercedes is inclined to use these days.

Make sure you get the enamel solidly coated and into but not clogging the weep holes. Getting the enamel into the weep holes required a toothpick and some patience but I’m sure it will pay off in the long run.

desired_speeds

is that rustoleum stuff spray on or brush on? I haven't checked these areas for rust on my car yet, but there are a few small dots of bubbling on my trunk lid at the edge of the license plate garnish. I know a manager to a body shop and he mentioned that it the trunk lid will need to be repainted to repair it, even though the spot is barely noticeable. he quoted me $600.

ESTJ

Rust-oleum comes in both spray and brush-on. I only use the brush-on and only in the inconspicuous areas that will not be visible. You would have to be extremely careful with masking to use the spray. If you get the spray enamel on the surface of your car then you have a major problem, ie. repaint the car.

Once I reinstall the seal and the lower trim, you will not be able to see this paint.

BTW - you will have to wait at least two days for the enamel to set hard enough to reinstall the seal, otherwise the seal will stick to the enamel. That would be a mess!

fangtl

Nice job on the repair; hopefully the rustoleum will hold up.

ESTJ

Okay, I tried the following with fairly good results:

The problem, rust forming in non sealed area of hood near hinges, picture in previous post

Picture 1 - The materials for the fix, plasti-kote Rust Not Rust Converter and two toothbrushes (one to apply and one to remove excess), Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield Glass Sealer, rag for cleanup!

Picture 2 - The completed job!


Just pour a small amount of the Rust Converter onto a toothbrush and work into the unsealed portion of the hood, you will get some on the painted surfaces, just use a rag to remove immediately.

Now, a little patience while the conversion process takes place; usually about 15 minutes maybe more depending upon the amount and severity of the problem.

Use the second toothbrush to remove the rust converter. No need for water or any other cleaning solution. Wipe area clean with the rag.

Using the toothpick apply the Windshield Flowable Silicone into the unsealed area. Using this highly flowable product will make sure the sealant gets deep into this area. Clean off silicone from any other painted areas like the sides of the joined metal. The beauty of this product is that it is very clear and not very noticeable.

I think you will like the results!