Rust & Rot E55?
I read the following reviews and was disheartend after many years of Mercedes love.
http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/mer...9845/comments/
I was considering an E55 AMG as daily driver or M5.
Thanks
PS..One review reads....
The problems discussed concerning rust appearing under the paint on the rear quarter panels, seams, wheel well lip, doors and other areas of 2000 and up Mercedes Benz's is due to a combination of corrosion resulting from dissimiliar metals, lower quality metal with inadequate carbon content, poor design that does not allow moisture to escape, lack of adequate sealant and in particular lack of adequate corrosion proofing materials such as Zinc in the assembly of body panels where they are joined. Instead of addressing this thru a recall Mercedes has taken the position of non-acknowledgment and fix the problems as they occur hoping no one will notice.





The S65 has alot electric stuff that I hardly use, the G500 is pretty much offroad truck not much of a city driver. The SLR is very simple car no navigation or tons of electriconic distractions, that is what is appealing on the W210 E55 over newer ones.
An E55 AMG is one of the best cars Mercedes ever put out, and its engine hand built, very reliable detuned will reach 169mph. Rust aside, for 10-15k I can't think of a more enjoyable daily driver.

The S65 has alot electric stuff that I hardly use, the G500 is pretty much offroad truck not much of a city driver. The SLR is very simple car no navigation or tons of electriconic distractions, that is what is appealing on the W210 E55 over newer ones.
An E55 AMG is one of the best cars Mercedes ever put out, and its engine hand built, very reliable detuned will reach 169mph. Rust aside, for 10-15k I can't think of a more enjoyable daily driver.
Thinking good my friend
hope you find a good one Fabio Daniel
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The S65 has alot electric stuff that I hardly use, the G500 is pretty much offroad truck not much of a city driver. The SLR is very simple car no navigation or tons of electriconic distractions, that is what is appealing on the W210 E55 over newer ones.
An E55 AMG is one of the best cars Mercedes ever put out, and its engine hand built, very reliable detuned will reach 169mph. Rust aside, for 10-15k I can't think of a more enjoyable daily driver.
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I also had taken off the grill previously and I found rust underneath the rubber weather shield. I removed all of the rust and used Naval Jelly to eliminate the rest, then painted that whole section with several coats of Rustoleum and then gave a coat of undercoating on top of the paint. I think this covers that area and I don't expect any more problems here. Picture 2.
Now I have removed the weather seal on the doors and I am just astonished at how Mercedes has created such a mess. Pictures 3-4. This is the worst but all doors had similar problems.
An area that I have noticed but have not yet attempted to repair is the hood near the springs. Picture 5. This again is just stupid on Mercedes part. I have a W124 300CE and the hood on it is sealed all the way, on the W210 it is sealed only half way and the rest is beginning to rust. Will fix it, just will take a little time.
Having read the HORROR stories of the front springs falling out from rust I gave that area a good inspection and then layered on some undercoating just for good measure. Picture 6.
The major flaw here is obviously the metal and the paint but also just sloppy in applying the sealant to the point where the weep holes were clogged so the water had nowhere to go, RUST.
I will be repairing these spots over the next couple of days and will post my repair pictures, any suggestions will be welcomed.
I also have rust under the rocker panel so I have attempted to remove one of the panels with no luck. There are four screws in the rear, three in the front and a bunch of the plastic snaps, however after removing all of those I am at a loss as to what to do next. Someone has to have removed these panels or knows someone that knows the trick! HELP Please!!
Last edited by ESTJ; Jan 2, 2011 at 10:19 PM.
Make sure you get the enamel solidly coated and into but not clogging the weep holes. Getting the enamel into the weep holes required a toothpick and some patience but I’m sure it will pay off in the long run.
Last edited by ESTJ; Jan 4, 2011 at 07:23 AM.
Once I reinstall the seal and the lower trim, you will not be able to see this paint.
BTW - you will have to wait at least two days for the enamel to set hard enough to reinstall the seal, otherwise the seal will stick to the enamel. That would be a mess!
The problem, rust forming in non sealed area of hood near hinges, picture in previous post
Picture 1 - The materials for the fix, plasti-kote Rust Not Rust Converter and two toothbrushes (one to apply and one to remove excess), Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield Glass Sealer, rag for cleanup!
Picture 2 - The completed job!
Just pour a small amount of the Rust Converter onto a toothbrush and work into the unsealed portion of the hood, you will get some on the painted surfaces, just use a rag to remove immediately.
Now, a little patience while the conversion process takes place; usually about 15 minutes maybe more depending upon the amount and severity of the problem.
Use the second toothbrush to remove the rust converter. No need for water or any other cleaning solution. Wipe area clean with the rag.
Using the toothpick apply the Windshield Flowable Silicone into the unsealed area. Using this highly flowable product will make sure the sealant gets deep into this area. Clean off silicone from any other painted areas like the sides of the joined metal. The beauty of this product is that it is very clear and not very noticeable.
I think you will like the results!



along with a SLR and a garage full of others



