MAINTENANCE ISSUES-WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A USED(EVEN HIGH MILEAGE) W210 E55
10-10-2011, 10:42 AM
#26
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
Great point,, thank you ,, I will do it myself this weekend but the only question I can't find an answer for is,, : I seen many tips on how to drian the torque converter,, but when I add the new tranny oil,, how do I make sure I REFILL the converter again? is there a way to confirm that? I heard about the special dip-stick but still not sure what is it for and why it need to be used after refilling??? can you help ?
Thank you all for your great support/ tips
Thank you all for your great support/ tips
You must check the oil level when the car is running at aproximately 90F. You'll need a really long dipstick that you can buy at the dealer or online.
Good luck!
10-10-2011, 10:44 AM
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GL450
The Shell 134 from Ryder is only a few dollars a quart. It meets MB spec.
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
10-11-2011, 09:08 AM
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
Hey guys!
Have you ever heard of rear main seal leaking on a W210 E55?
And in order to change it you would have to take the transmission down....
Have you ever heard of rear main seal leaking on a W210 E55?
And in order to change it you would have to take the transmission down....
10-11-2011, 12:53 PM
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1999 E55 AMG
My '99 is having a real rust problem around the rear wheel arches and bottom trunk lid . . . dragola as everything else is good . . . .
I tried some spot painting over the past weekends and have not got the feel for it . . . do you buff or use rubbing compound after putting on the clearcoat, or before. I did it before the clearcoat and is messed up the paint job . . . .
I tried some spot painting over the past weekends and have not got the feel for it . . . do you buff or use rubbing compound after putting on the clearcoat, or before. I did it before the clearcoat and is messed up the paint job . . . .
10-13-2011, 09:15 PM
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2000 E55
10-14-2011, 02:32 PM
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10-14-2011, 03:33 PM
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2007 SL55 AMG
the transmission, the torque converter, and the flex plate have to come off. Is your leaking badly or is it just seeping? Mine seeps a little bit (a drop or two every few weeks probably) and its fairly normal on all MBs. If yours is dumping oil... then yea it needs to be replaced.
10-14-2011, 03:38 PM
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
10-14-2011, 03:45 PM
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the transmission, the torque converter, and the flex plate have to come off. Is your leaking badly or is it just seeping? Mine seeps a little bit (a drop or two every few weeks probably) and its fairly normal on all MBs. If yours is dumping oil... then yea it needs to be replaced.
10-14-2011, 07:49 PM
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2000 E55
My Mercedes mechanic told me it's not worth it to change the seal if it's leaking a little bit. I don't agree with that because I don't want even a drop of oil around my engine or tranny. But when he told me it's a 6-7 hours job and that he has to take the tranny down,I said ' Forget it ' ! He said that the rear engine seal is in the back of the engine,where the engine connects with the tranny. Now if he's bs-ing me to get more money out of me...I don't know....
10-27-2011, 10:50 AM
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2001 E55 AMG (sold)
Mine has a seeping rear seal. Dealer noted it about 3 years ago to the original owner (it was on one of the service notes) and recommended changing it (cost was over $1k). I looked when I changed the oil last time and there was just a slight buildup of oil on the bell housing. Not enough to cause any drips on my floor. I wiped it off and will check it again next time. I think seeping rear main seals are a nearly universal constant with V8 rear drive vehicles once they get to be 7-10 years old.
My opinion is leave it alone unless you are loosing significant amounts of oil (more than a quart over the life of an oil change), or it is causing bad stains on your floor, or it is hurting some nearby component. That is a lot of effort to fix a minor seep, that will likely come back after another 5 years.
My opinion is leave it alone unless you are loosing significant amounts of oil (more than a quart over the life of an oil change), or it is causing bad stains on your floor, or it is hurting some nearby component. That is a lot of effort to fix a minor seep, that will likely come back after another 5 years.
10-28-2011, 10:27 AM
#39
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
My mechanic is always yelling at me that I'm trying to make a new car out of an old one and he's saying he's been searching to do that throughout his 35 years of experience and never been able to...
So I guess I'll leave some things not the way I want them to be...
So I guess I'll leave some things not the way I want them to be...
05-23-2012, 08:52 AM
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
I should add here...replace both lower control arms at the same time by Mercedes recommendation,even if one of them looks good. Don't do it like me,where I replaced the left one only and now 10k miles later,I'm forced to replace the right one too and do wheel alignment twice!
05-23-2012, 09:23 AM
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2007 SL55 AMG
I should add here...replace both lower control arms at the same time by Mercedes recommendation,even if one of them looks good. Don't do it like me,where I replaced the left one only and now 10k miles later,I'm forced to replace the right one too and do wheel alignment twice!
05-23-2012, 07:36 PM
#43
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E 63S Wagon Renntech, E55 Renntech, SL65, SL 55 030, ML, bunch of old ones--they come, they go...
RMS
most all rms leak or at least seep. And no, would also think twice about replacing it.
I guess it's too late now, but about the worst enemy of the w210 (whatever engine) is RUST. Wheel well arches, bottoms of doors, tops of doors, trunks and latches. Way, way too common for a car made in this century.
I guess it's too late now, but about the worst enemy of the w210 (whatever engine) is RUST. Wheel well arches, bottoms of doors, tops of doors, trunks and latches. Way, way too common for a car made in this century.
05-24-2012, 10:36 PM
#44
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
Look what Santa brought!!! 
Lemforder lower control arm,Lemforder ball joints,Febi tie rod end,Lemforder tie rod,Trw tie rod.
Lemforder is OEM.
The Febi tie rod end is not OEM but is the best they got. It says Bilstein makes them.
Also I only found 1 Lemforder OEM tie rod in stock. The other one is Trw,but they have it as OEM as well! Does anyone know if our cars come with both brands?
Lemforder lower control arm,Lemforder ball joints,Febi tie rod end,Lemforder tie rod,Trw tie rod.
Lemforder is OEM.
The Febi tie rod end is not OEM but is the best they got. It says Bilstein makes them.
Also I only found 1 Lemforder OEM tie rod in stock. The other one is Trw,but they have it as OEM as well! Does anyone know if our cars come with both brands?
05-31-2012, 05:44 PM
#45
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
Another tip here : my car was making a spring like popping sound when I was turning at very low speed...5 mph. It was the newly installed lower control arms with new bushings that weren't tighten enough. Just a piece of advice,especially if you DIY. Tighten the lower control arm screws by Mercedes recommendation : first on the lift,then lower it on the ground and let it sit it's weight on the wheels,go under and tighten them again or they will come loose.
05-31-2012, 05:50 PM
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
When you do alignment,do it at a good place,that knows how to do alignment in these cars. They need to install a metal bar on the inside of the wheels,between the left and the right to hold them in place,otherwise the alignment will be off. Trust me! Ask me how I know...
05-31-2012, 06:04 PM
#47
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
Always check your gas cap to be tighten,especially if you refill at one of those full service stations where they put the gas for you. Do not overfill.
Check your gas cap gasket...see if it's dry,cracked etc. Change it or change the whole gas cap. Buy OEM only,not aftermarket. It is a very common reason you get flashy low gas level light and eventually a CEL that's throwing evap leak codes,like P0455 or P0456. If the gas cap doesn't solve your evap leak,check your purge valve and hoses leading from it to the charcoal canister. There's a purge valve cleaning DIY on benzworld.com thanks to ohlord.
Check your gas cap gasket...see if it's dry,cracked etc. Change it or change the whole gas cap. Buy OEM only,not aftermarket. It is a very common reason you get flashy low gas level light and eventually a CEL that's throwing evap leak codes,like P0455 or P0456. If the gas cap doesn't solve your evap leak,check your purge valve and hoses leading from it to the charcoal canister. There's a purge valve cleaning DIY on benzworld.com thanks to ohlord.
05-31-2012, 06:12 PM
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1999 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
I think I'm done for now. I will post issues and their fixes in the future to help other members. Please do the same. Thanks.
BTW,where is everybody?! It seems like we're only 20 people left in USA with W210 E55's...
BTW,where is everybody?! It seems like we're only 20 people left in USA with W210 E55's...
09-23-2012, 02:20 PM
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E 63S Wagon Renntech, E55 Renntech, SL65, SL 55 030, ML, bunch of old ones--they come, they go...
Wow.....
I can't believe that only one person has mentioned rust. Lots of good things about the 210, but rust is one of the worst. Look and look again. It's a shame but it's a fact.
10-24-2012, 02:42 AM
#50
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Engine: see if spark plugs/ wires have been done. are the valve covers leaking? This could cost a pretty penny as plugs/wires/vc gaskets will cost around $850 at an independent and $1500+ at the dealer. Drive belt and idler pulley; check to see if the belt was replaced recently. Give the idler pulley a shake (back and forth motion) is there any play? When driving, does the car feel strong? When you stomp on it, it should burn tires.
Transmission: has service ever been done? Transmission dipstick plug has a locking tab on it. if it is red, it has been at least opened before and service may or may not have been done. If it is black, then it is still original. If it's original, with over 120k miles, don't buy it. If it has been done but not recently, do it again after you buy the car. Also, has the electrical connector been replaced, or is it leaking?
Suspension: Check for odd noises when driving. Does the steering feel tight? Does the car feel especially floaty in the front end when you go over a freeway divide? Check the lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings. Check for tie rod play and most importantly, bearing play in the front. If there is bearing play, don't worry, its normal on a car at this age. If you buy the car, have the bearings repacked and tightened. I personally chose to replace my bearings.
I bought my car sign unseen, however, I had someone look over it for me before I sent payment and had it shipped to me. I just got word that it feels strong and stable and I ended up buying it. At 117k my ball joints showed some wear, not too bad actually and one of my lower control arm bushings was starting to crack. I replaced the bushings and balljoints. I also chose to put in new front bearings and did a transmission service (pan drop/ filter/ connector) two days after I got the car. My valve covers and breather covers leaked, so I ended up doing the plugs, wires, gaskets, vent hoses and everything. The car is rock solid at 133k after I replaced almost any wear item on the car. I just did my second transmission service last week 15k miles after the first one was done. The old fluid came out still red and I think the car has a long healthy life ahead of it.
Transmission: has service ever been done? Transmission dipstick plug has a locking tab on it. if it is red, it has been at least opened before and service may or may not have been done. If it is black, then it is still original. If it's original, with over 120k miles, don't buy it. If it has been done but not recently, do it again after you buy the car. Also, has the electrical connector been replaced, or is it leaking?
Suspension: Check for odd noises when driving. Does the steering feel tight? Does the car feel especially floaty in the front end when you go over a freeway divide? Check the lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings. Check for tie rod play and most importantly, bearing play in the front. If there is bearing play, don't worry, its normal on a car at this age. If you buy the car, have the bearings repacked and tightened. I personally chose to replace my bearings.
I bought my car sign unseen, however, I had someone look over it for me before I sent payment and had it shipped to me. I just got word that it feels strong and stable and I ended up buying it. At 117k my ball joints showed some wear, not too bad actually and one of my lower control arm bushings was starting to crack. I replaced the bushings and balljoints. I also chose to put in new front bearings and did a transmission service (pan drop/ filter/ connector) two days after I got the car. My valve covers and breather covers leaked, so I ended up doing the plugs, wires, gaskets, vent hoses and everything. The car is rock solid at 133k after I replaced almost any wear item on the car. I just did my second transmission service last week 15k miles after the first one was done. The old fluid came out still red and I think the car has a long healthy life ahead of it.
