Neanicu888

Hey guys!

I would like to start this thread for W210 E55 new owners or unexperienced like myself.
What would you look for when searching into buying your first W210 E 55 that possibly has high mileage and no maintenance records? I know your answer : ' don't buy it-I wouldn't ' LOL! But there are people out there who will buy it and then need help. Especially now that the prices have dropped down quite a lot and you can buy a car that was close to 80000$ for 5-6000$. Mine had 147K when I got it and costed around there. I am a very happy and lucky owner. I invested 1K in it but it's worth it!
So what would you pay close attention to before buying it? Would you pay for a PPI(Prepaid Inspection) at your MB dealer before handing over your cash?
What maintenance steps would you do first after you bought it?
Would you take it to the dealer to do a 160$ diagnostic after you bought it,if you haven't done a PPI before?
Hope this will help.
Now post please.
Thanks.

CharlyE500

I think the best way is take to a reputable indy shop pay $150 PPI (Pre Purchase inspection). The tech will tell you overall the condition while you are there. To the dealer, you don't even really speak to the tech, they just show you a piece of paper. W210 E55 is just as every other car, same maintenance as every other car. 100K plugs, fuel filter, tranny/differential oil change, radiator coolant change, engine oil, air filter, other than this, don't fix if not broken. Make sure no engine oil and tranny oil leak. If they leak, find out the problem. Every car has its problem even Camry need to change engine mount, seal valve gasket ......

Neanicu888

I did a tranny flush. Before my mechanic went in there,the tranny oil pan and around it was completly dry. After problems started that nobody mentioned to me. Luckily I'm one of those guys that like to check everything again and again. I found out it was leaking right away. First it started leaking through the plastic plug located to the upper side of the tranny oil pan. I had to change that. Then it started leaking through a plastic piece that holds in the transmission cable,located in the rear of the tranny oil pan etc.
And there you go...things I didn't know that need to be changed and learned the hard way.

Neanicu888

Also I should mention I was able to do a Torque converter flush as well,since my car does have a Torque converter drain plug. I understand that some don't have a drain plug,but I don't know which do have and which don't.

desired_speeds

Engine: see if spark plugs/ wires have been done. are the valve covers leaking? This could cost a pretty penny as plugs/wires/vc gaskets will cost around $850 at an independent and $1500+ at the dealer. Drive belt and idler pulley; check to see if the belt was replaced recently. Give the idler pulley a shake (back and forth motion) is there any play? When driving, does the car feel strong? When you stomp on it, it should burn tires.

Transmission: has service ever been done? Transmission dipstick plug has a locking tab on it. if it is red, it has been at least opened before and service may or may not have been done. If it is black, then it is still original. If it's original, with over 120k miles, don't buy it. If it has been done but not recently, do it again after you buy the car. Also, has the electrical connector been replaced, or is it leaking?

Suspension: Check for odd noises when driving. Does the steering feel tight? Does the car feel especially floaty in the front end when you go over a freeway divide? Check the lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings. Check for tie rod play and most importantly, bearing play in the front. If there is bearing play, don't worry, its normal on a car at this age. If you buy the car, have the bearings repacked and tightened. I personally chose to replace my bearings.

I bought my car sign unseen, however, I had someone look over it for me before I sent payment and had it shipped to me. I just got word that it feels strong and stable and I ended up buying it. At 117k my ball joints showed some wear, not too bad actually and one of my lower control arm bushings was starting to crack. I replaced the bushings and balljoints. I also chose to put in new front bearings and did a transmission service (pan drop/ filter/ connector) two days after I got the car. My valve covers and breather covers leaked, so I ended up doing the plugs, wires, gaskets, vent hoses and everything. The car is rock solid at 133k after I replaced almost any wear item on the car. I just did my second transmission service last week 15k miles after the first one was done. The old fluid came out still red and I think the car has a long healthy life ahead of it.

Neanicu888

Wow desired_speeds!!!

Now that's a real analysis! That's what any E55 amateur needs to read!
You're the best!
The difference between red versus black transmission fill up plug clip I've learned from these forums. Very good point desired_speeds! Mine was black with 147K and I still got it. Transmission shifts like brand new.
My left lower control arm was welded after it broke. To me that's equal to a crime. If I didn't change the control arm right away I probably could've been dead right now if I hit a serious bump in the road.

Strigoi

desired_speeds pretty much covered it.

I bought my '01 E55 with 92,000 on it and no maintenance records. It ended up needing engine mounts, ball joints, control arm bushings, valve cover gaskets, plugs and transmission service at first. It's getting Service B done soon too. I'm past that by 800 miles now and that's going to grow to 1,500+ by the time I can have it done (this Sunday most likely). That stuff cost me around $650 in parts to take care of.

I've got just under 100,000 on it right now and the brakes need to be done soon along with the shocks. One of my front wheel bearings also has a bit of play in it and needs to be replaced pretty soon as well.

Luckily a friend of mine works at an indy and his boss is cool with him doing side jobs on my car. Getting all this taken care of has cost me a fraction of what it normally would.

desired_speeds

I'm a part time mechanic while I'm in school. We mostly service and repair mercedes and bmw which is why I'm really on top of my maintenance and repairs. Overall mercedes, and especially AMGs are very reliable cars. I'd even go as far as to saying they're more reliable than toyota and lexus if you keep up with your services.

Parts are cheaper than Japanese cars most of the time, its just that it uses so much of every (ie. 16 spark plugs, 8 quarts of oil, etc)

desired_speeds

dang you're lucky. The last w211 I serviced the transmission on had 132k on original fluid. The pan magnet looked like a mountain of friction material. Ended up doing about 3-4 drain and fills and the fluid was still brown. The trans shudders when it shifts... needs to be replaced.

How did the lower control arm break?

Neanicu888

Hey desired_speeds!

I guess I was just lucky with the transmission or that's proof that the car hasn't been driven too hard. Anyway,when we took the tranny oil pan down,we couldn't locate not even 1 piece of metal. I was really happy about that and it also feels in the way the car shifts-nice and smooth!
The left lower control arm story : I bought the car like that. I've noticed the lower control arm was welded by the previous owner I assume. That's why I said that's totally irresponsible. So I don't know how it broke,but it was welded right at the angle.
Now I will mention another thing about maintenance. These OEM Lemforder(is the brand,if I'm not mistaken) didn't originally have a little hole at the bottom,so the water will always gather there and in time rust. That's why my mechanic would punch a little hole there,it's really easy,right in the soft part of the control arm,so the water will not sit there anymore and no more problems.
Now,with the new designed Lemforder control arm they thought about that and it comes with the little hole already made.

saintz

Buying these cars (or any Benz) sight-unseen is not the nightmare many make it out to be. It's just a car. Some people "buy" brides over the internet. You've got to keep her. The car, you can fix or sell if it's a lemon.

Everyone always says to get a PPI, but this thread is interesting because it shows how many people buy sight unseen. I bought my E55 and my current car basically unseen. Both had problems, which a PPI would have turned up. But I got both at rock bottom prices and spent only a few hundred bucks in repairs to get them up to snuff. A cheap car plus some repairs is still cheaper than paying top dollar for a cream-puff. You can buy a cheap E55 and replace the whole transmission (which is worst case scenario) for less than what some people think their cream-puff is worth. A neglected car is not a good buy, but a cheap daily driven car that needs a few items generally is.

If you are in an area where you can find these cars used, a quick test drive will tell you most of what a PPI will. Does it go fast, turn well, brake well, shift well, feel tight, and ride quiet? Do you see any rust or leaks? Do all the gizmos and electronics work? If it checks out visually and drives ok, chances are it needs a few hundred bucks in repairs, tops. A PPI will tell you what those few hundred bucks of repairs are, as will 3 months of ownership. Make sure you have savings to fix those issues.

The valve covers on the V8 will leak over time. This happens. They need to be tightened, not replaced. Only if they still leak a sizable amount after being tightened (don't over do it) do they need to be replaced.

The MAFs go bad easily. If the car is slow, that is generally the issue. A new MAF is $150 (aka less than 3 tanks of gas or 1% to 2% of the purchase price).

If you don't have documented replacement of the transmission filter within the last 20k miles, that should be the first thing to do. Get the Shell 134 ATF from Ryder that meets MB spec. A case costs $20 delivered. The filter is about the same from Autohausaz. Get the dip stick for about the same from Ohlord or eBay. Car goes on ramps, drain the pan, drop the pan, change filter, refill. If it doesn't shift smoothly, drain and refill again. The Shell ATF is dirt cheap. Get a Mityvac 7400 and thank me later.

desired_speeds

That's pretty much everything in a nutshell^ I don't buy perfect cars, you end up overpaying and many times the wear items have not been replaced. A low mileage car isn't always as good as it looks.

There is one hint on the transmission service. If you do a pan drop and filter change and let it drip until it slows down, put it back together, and refill 4 quarts exact and cap it.

Neanicu888

That's exactly what I think. If you're buying one that has more miles than the other and it doesn't have all the maintenance records etc...but at least you get it cheaper,make sure you know 1 important aspect : you must know/feel that that car has POTENTIAL.
Also be ready to spend some extra besides what you payed for it,in order to bring it up to date regarding maintenance.

Strigoi

I feel the same way. Mine isn't perfect but it runs and drives well. The front is seriously rock chipped and it's got some dings and scrapes on it. It's a daily driver so I'm fine with having issues like that. It's also parked outside when I'm not at work. I was **** about my Z28 when I had it and it sucked. I was always worried about the slightest scratch and wouldn't park near other cars.

mtnhouse

Desired_Speed is my online service advicer and his the best . Any luck on finding a spring compressor?

desired_speeds

haha I tend to be overly meticulous about my own cars. As for the spring compressor...haven't found anything yet, still waiting for replies. Strigoi's friend's shop has the spring compressor, you'll have to ask him for details if I cannot find anyone else.

Neanicu888

Hey desired_speeds!

I'm going to change my oil level sensor this Saturday because it's leaking. I got the OES sensor already. Before I got it I posted a thread here because I wanted to know if I should change the whole sensor or just the O-ring on the old one since it's working fine,it's just the leak that's bothering me. I got an answer that I should change the whole sensor while I'm in there,because this guy is saying that the leak comes back when you change only the O-ring on the old one. On the other hand,I've seen threads where they were saying they just changed the O-ring and it was fine.
What's your input on that?
Also,anything else I should get for the job? I understand there's a plastic clip in there that holds the sensor from going into the crankcase and that easily breaks or anything else I might need....
How long do you think the job takes....labor?
Thank you very much! I appreciate your help!

saintz

You can rent a spring compressor from Autozone or similar stores for $20 or buy from Harbor Freight for $100. I didn't think the E55 needed it, since it doesn't use coil overs.

Paintless dent removal costs $100. A paint detail costs $75. You can get Meguiars Ultimate polish and a random orbital buffer for $30 from Walmart that will get the paint about half as good as a detail. For about $300 you can make a car look almost new again.

Strigoi

I'm sure you could do it without a spring compressor, but it's not safe. There's still a lot of compression on the springs even when the control arm is dropped down.

Back in the day when I had a 5.0 Mustang we swapped springs without a compressor (same basic setup). It was scary when we popped the stock ones out. I personally would never do it that way again. With the Eibachs on it a compressor wasn't needed. You could almost pull the rears out when the car was just up on jack stands on that car (a good yank would have done it). I wasn't running the pads either so that cleared up another 1/4"-1/2" of space.

saintz

Good to know. Safety first.

tmounib

Guys
I just bought my 2nd BENZ, 1998 e320 with 140K . runs great but here is what I found and what I done
1- skipping when I first started, (was old/origenal spark plugs were in it) cost me $50 for the new ones, took about an hour to replace
2- the belt was very dry, had sign of rust on it,, that was replaced ($25)
3- Engine mount, ($180) for the parts,, have not got the chance to replace it yet.
4- Brake light switch ($20) took 20 minute to install , solved (BAS/ABS) problem.
5- oil change ($60 ) for the parts and the filter,,
now as you all can see,, I spent under $500 and I have a great running car for few years now,, forgive me for not mentioning WINDOW regulator,,lol (ebay $50)
I am happy with the car,, thank you all and good luck

Neanicu888

Brakes?
Shocks?
Tranny service?
Air filters?
In cabin filters?
Antifreeze flush?

tmounib

Brakes , shocks , and all the filters were checked and all good, flushing antifreeze and tranny service will be done in 2 weeks, I need a long weekend for that, beside I need to find a better price for the tranny,s fluid the dealer want $10 a qurt, and the transmission takes almost 9 qurts, anyway that should be done this weekend and I will post the result, thanks for the tip

Neanicu888

Do the tranny service at an indy shop,but use dealer parts. 10$ a quart tranny oil?! That's cheap,I payed 18$ a quart....10 quarts...you do the math.
Buy the gasket and filter from the dealer.
Also change the plastic connector while you're in there.
Read this thread,it will tell you what to do,that's why I started it.
I remember there's an user on this thread who was mentioning some other tranny oil besides the dealer's. You can go with that if you want.

tmounib

Great point,, thank you ,, I will do it myself this weekend but the only question I can't find an answer for is,, : I seen many tips on how to drian the torque converter,, but when I add the new tranny oil,, how do I make sure I REFILL the converter again? is there a way to confirm that? I heard about the special dip-stick but still not sure what is it for and why it need to be used after refilling??? can you help ?
Thank you all for your great support/ tips