W210 AMG Discuss the W210 AMG's such as the E50, E55, and E60

fog light out

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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 10:59 PM
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fog light out

I replaced my passenger side fog light element, thinking that was the problem, although when I removed it - it really didn't seem bad. Sure enough, when I replaced it, the new one isn't working either. It only cost about $12.00, so I'll keep it as a spare...but I'm stumped as to what the problem could be, so I'm turning to the forums to see if anyone else had this problem and solved it.

There doesn't seem to be a fuse allocated for these lights, as my fuse charts don't show one. Is there an inline fuse, perhaps, not listed?

bzk

Last edited by benzokirk; Mar 16, 2013 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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Did you turn the light switch to the parking or head light position, and then pull the switch out?
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cudaized
Did you turn the light switch to the parking or head light position, and then pull the switch out?
yes, of course, and just as a friendly FYI- this isn't a question about how to operate the fog lights...the question is solely regarding how to troubleshoot a light not working after replacing what I thought was a dead element.

Thanks for the response!

bzk
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 11:49 PM
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Sorry. Didn't mean to insult you. I was typing a comprehensive response, and I posted (prematurely) prior to finishing my recommendations.

I have trouble shot this exact problem with a favorable outcome. I'm sure there will be other members with more experience, chiming in.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cudaized
Sorry. Didn't mean to insult you. I was typing a comprehensive response, and I posted (prematurely) prior to finishing my recommendations.

I have trouble shot this exact problem with a favorable outcome. I'm sure there will be other members with more experience, chiming in.
...

No worries, bro... I've checked (just about) all the fuses, just in case there was one what wasn't listed on the charts (even though I doubted that would be the problem)...under the hood on both sides of the engine bay, under the rear seat. The reason I said "just about" is because I believe there's another fuze box under the steering column...

So what did you do to get your favorable outcome?

/bzk
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 01:21 AM
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Corrosion between the plug that connects to the light bulb and the wiring harness. You'll have to dig in there and see if you have power at the plug.
What happens,water gets in there no matter what and in time it corrodes the plug. It happened in mine...
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Neanicu888
Corrosion between the plug that connects to the light bulb and the wiring harness. You'll have to dig in there and see if you have power at the plug.
What happens,water gets in there no matter what and in time it corrodes the plug. It happened in mine...
yeah, that's a good tip...I suspected that, it just looked so clean, but I'll put a meter on it to see later today. Thanks for the tip, I'll let you know.

/bzk
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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I use something similar to below link.

http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/4003...PriceItemTypes

Easy to use and helps fault finding go along at a quick pace.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by cheezels
I use something similar to below link.

http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/4003...PriceItemTypes

Easy to use and helps fault finding go along at a quick pace.
Yeah, I have one similar to that, I'll give it a shot later this afternoon.

/bzk
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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Try these,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171005220280...84.m1555.l2649
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
my hope is that I don't have to replace the entire unit, and I can clean out the connector. but if that doesn't work, I might have to......

/bzk
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by benzokirk
my hope is that I don't have to replace the entire unit, and I can clean out the connector. but if that doesn't work, I might have to......

/bzk
That connector is the cheapest thing you can buy right from the dealer!
They don't give you the entire plug,they just give you the aluminum pins(I believe they're female connector pins) and you open the plug up,it has tabs...then you cut the old pins out,strip the wires and then squash the new pins thru the wires to keep them in place. You then put the pins back in the plug,close it up...problem solved! No need for soldering,they didn't do it from the factory either.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Neanicu888
That connector is the cheapest thing you can buy right from the dealer!
They don't give you the entire plug,they just give you the aluminum pins(I believe they're female connector pins) and you open the plug up,it has tabs...then you cut the old pins out,strip the wires and then squash the new pins thru the wires to keep them in place. You then put the pins back in the plug,close it up...problem solved! No need for soldering,they didn't do it from the factory either.
I can do that! Thanks!!

/bzk
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 02:55 PM
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I just reread your first post, and I think you may have missed the light fuses.
the fuse box for the lights is not under the dash it is on the side to the left of the headlight switch. open the drivers door fully and you will see a panel on the side of the dash board right by the headlight switch, pry it straight out and it will come off, you will then see all the fuse for lights.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
I just reread your first post, and I think you may have missed the light fuses.
the fuse box for the lights is not under the dash it is on the side to the left of the headlight switch. open the drivers door fully and you will see a panel on the side of the dash board right by the headlight switch, pry it straight out and it will come off, you will then see all the fuse for lights.
Ahhhhh... you are a gentleman and a scholar, and I thank you! Now I remember finding that when I first bought the car!!

But, alas, it's not the problem. The left one is working but the right one isn't, so that means (since there's one fuse for both lights) the fuse is okay. I checked it as soon as I got your post, just to be sure. So... looks like I'll be checking on that connector, after all. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks, so much, for the heads up on the location of the fuses!!

/bzk
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Check again mine has a right and left fuse for the fog lights.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Neanicu888
That connector is the cheapest thing you can buy right from the dealer!
They don't give you the entire plug,they just give you the aluminum pins(I believe they're female connector pins) and you open the plug up,it has tabs...then you cut the old pins out,strip the wires and then squash the new pins thru the wires to keep them in place. You then put the pins back in the plug,close it up...problem solved! No need for soldering,they didn't do it from the factory either.
you called it, exactly. the wire you see is the culprit. I'll get the connector pins tomorrow and post the whole process. Thanks!

/bzk
Attached Thumbnails fog light out-2013-03-17-17.10.21.jpg  
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
Check again mine has a right and left fuse for the fog lights.
yeah, but the 210 doesn't... the #9 fuse is for both front fog lamps. #12, being the only other fog lamp fuse in the entire car, is self-explanatory...

it's not the fuse anyway, my previous post shows the amount of corrosion that caused one wire to fall off.

/bzk
Attached Thumbnails fog light out-2013-03-17-14.05.36.jpg  
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 12:10 PM
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not sure if this helps , but I had an issue where the wire leading out of the housing ended up being corroded at the connector also probably due to missing trap door on that side , my local mb dealer said they couldnt sell me just the connector piece , only if i bought the whole harness leading to headlights also . i just spliced the wires tied and shrinkwrapped them . if it was going to be the fuze it would of been if accidentally fouling that wire that goings into the foglight holder/housing piece
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MBFLO
not sure if this helps , but I had an issue where the wire leading out of the housing ended up being corroded at the connector also probably due to missing trap door on that side , my local mb dealer said they couldnt sell me just the connector piece , only if i bought the whole harness leading to headlights also . i just spliced the wires tied and shrinkwrapped them . if it was going to be the fuze it would of been if accidentally fouling that wire that goings into the foglight holder/housing piece
you're absolutely correct, it was the harness and I ended up doing exactly the same thing you did to fix it!
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:07 PM
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im glad thats all that was the issue , not bad fix , my biggest issue was fitting my big hands through the trap door trying to access both wires to get the together and tight . also a shame such expensive car use such cheap looking wires and adapters . im also running hid xenons in the fogs so I have more extensive wiring all in the area .

Now to get to my rear sway bar link that snapped , was wondering what that noise was in the rear and the way my car felt like it wanted to hydroplane when it rains
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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it was incredibly difficult to get out, and back in, I had the same problem. tight fit, indeed... shame about the rear sway bar, I need some front end work on mine, broken spring on the left side. I need new rubber on the front, but want to wait to get the suspension fixed before I do...

//bzk
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:25 PM
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yea i had my spring snap a coil last yr while i was doing 80 on the freeway , becareful if you get it local that they get you the right one first off before you end up like me going to dealer getting one and changing then it be the wrong one and sitting high like if I was going for that donk effect , then got the right one only to find out to change both at same time , because the other one sagged over 10 yrs and didint sit at the same ride height , this forum even suggested that i replace both at same time and i didnt listen lol
also im afraid that your fronts will sit noticeably higher then the rear due to be on fresh front springs. if I had todo it over again , I would get the euro spec e55 w210 amg spring if possible , they might run alil more then but you will have a nice stance without much modding , if you wanted a little low you can change the rubber spring pads that sit on top of the spring .. i would check your local dealer which isnt the norm , for springs first on pricing because they were dirt cheap compared to online or at indi shop unless you got a hookup localy . I even bought the spring compressor to change my ride hieght with the spring pads but never got under there yet lol

also when asking for pricing make sure they check by your vin # because that will show all the options your car has and they determine which springs go due to weight of car with options .

Last edited by MBFLO; Apr 30, 2013 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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"I would get the euro spec e55 w210 amg spring if possible"

yeah, I've heard a lot about the euro spec springs, and I want them for just the reason you mentioned. where's a good source for them, would I need to order them from a european source
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:35 PM
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there was a member here who had the dime on them , not sure if he posts as its kind of died around here it seems , only new members post but maybe run a search or just go down the list of topics for upto like 10-20 pages , its bound to pop up lol thats usally how I find stuff .. somtimes I go back to even the beginning found out alot of stuff about the car like that from ppl who had them first , but theres plenty wealth of knowledge on here , these guys know their benzos from top to bottom , if you gotta problem they will figure it out
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