cheezels

I must have had a bowl of stupid for breakfast as I don't seem to be able to find what oil goes in my engine.

I have a 1999 E55.

I know it's Mobil 1, but is it 0W40, or 5W40

snooozie

Mobil 1 0W40

Nocturnal-G

Per AMG... Mobil 1 Formula M 5w40.

Mobil 1 0w40 should work fine as well.

saintz

Most of the 5w40 you will find is meant for diesel. There is a gasoline version, if you can find it. You're better using 0w40 which is great oil.

Nocturnal-G

Off the top of my head, Motul and Pennzoil 5w40 both come to mind... they are both 229.5 spec. All 229.5 spec oils should be good IMO.

And to the OP... here is a list of oils for you to choose from, it's the most recent updated list from MB (avoid 229.51 spec, it's for diesels):

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

If I'm not mistaken, some dealers switched from Mobil 1 to Pennzoil...

snooozie

Stick to Mobil1 0W40. You can't go wrong.

BlackOmega

Per MB, 5w40.

I just changed the oil in my E55 and I used Total Quartz Energy 9000 5w40 and a Mann filter. My car has been super happy ever since.

From what I've read about it, it's a long drain interval oil. It resists all sorts of heavy duty punishment, and it's MB 229.5 spec compliant.

Not a bad price either. For 8 quarts + Mann filter ($12) I paid $75.

I also spoke with an MB tech and he said Castrol Syntec 5w50 is ok too.

Nocturnal-G

Wow not bad at all! Looks like good stuff.

From what I've read and understand MB spec 229.5 is the most stringent spec in the industry, not many oils meet the requirements. I regret using Royal Purple when I could have used Mobil 1. Royal Purple left my rockers dirty and looking like crap.

BlackOmega

Royal purple is good stuff, however, it's more suited to applications where it'll get changed more frequently, i.e. racing. Mobil 1 has A LOT of detergents in it so it keeps the engine, internally, looking better. However, it does tend to get very dark fairly quickly.

Redline and AMSoil are also great alternatives. However, they are kinda of pricy, ~$12/quart.

I was really hesitant to try the Total oil, mostly since I haven't even heard of it. Although after I read that it was MB229.5 compliant, my worries were allayed somewhat. But after I heard the engine run, I was glad I used it.

I actually looked for Castrol Syntec in the 5w40 (I'm a die-hard Syntec fan), but no one had any around here, only 5w50 (which is great oil too BTW).
. I've had amazing results with it. On some of my other cars, including muscle cars, I noticed that it lowered operating temps, and it seemed as though they revved faster.

I've also done some research about your run of the mill Synthetic oils, and Syntec scored higher than mobil 1, but not as high as AMSoil or the other specialty synthetics.

Neanicu888

It's quite fascinating to see how many discussions about oil! Everyone has an opinion when it comes to oil,everyone has an explanation or could share an experience.
What I read here is nothing,you should see the oil discussions over on the Porsche forums!
It's like discussions about paint colors or interior colors,everyone likes something different.
We're all experts due to our extensive engineering degrees,specialized in AMG engines! LOL! And AMG engineers are just a bunch of shmucks who don't know anything!
Seriously,unless you live in a very cold area,like Alaska or very hot,like Nevada, 0W-40 Mobil 1 is recommended by those shmucks...use it!

saintz

I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. Most Mobil 1 5w40 is diesel. As you said, it's 229.51 spec. This is NOT meant for gas engines. 229.51 is not a sub-spec of 229.5, it's a different spec for diesel.

This is perhaps out of date, but i think covers the gist:
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...-read-faq.html

desired_speeds

5w-40 ESP formula M is for diesels. Make sure if you find the 5w-40 it only says formula M without ESP on the bottle!

BlackOmega

I'll have to respectfully disagree with your recommendations on oil. It seems as though you don't understand viscosity and how temperatures affect it.
As I mentioned above, all oils get thinner as their temperature increases. Conversely, they get thicker as they get colder. So your assertion that 0w40 is good for Nevada heat is wrong. Due to the heat, the oil will get really thin and not protect the engine as it should, especially under severe duty conditions. Also note, MB specifies 5w40. I, personally, would suggest a thicker oil for the desert heat, like 5w50.
However Alaska on the other hand, where it gets really cold, the engine would benefit from the 0 weight oil.
Here in Michigan, we have extremes in temperatures. Up to 120+ in the summer and down to -50*F in the winter. So we're very well acquainted with changing to different weights from season to season.

Neanicu888

There's no problem that you're disagreeing,but you'd have to go back to what I wrote before and see that I said '' unless you live in those areas ''. That means '' if you live anywhere else BUT ''.
I do understand oil viscosity,but my point was about manufacturers recommendations...I don't know what they recommend if you live in Alaska or Nevada,but if they tell you these cars take Mobil 1 0W-40 or 5W-40,why do people need to use something else?

Nocturnal-G

Because having options is a great thing. Why not use Total, Motul, Pennzoil, Fuchs, Castrol, Liqui Moly, Shell, or Valvoline?

saintz

This is completely wrong. Your car engine (and hence oil) operates at 80* C. That is 176* F. If you live in Alaska, your engine runs at 176*F. If you live in Nevada, your car runs at 176*F. You do not run heavier oil based on where you live, because the high temperature of your oil is fixed by the engine and is higher than atmospheric temperature, no matter the location. If you actually lived somewhere hotter than 176*F, you wouldn't need oil, you would need a casket.

You do run a winter weight oil based on where you live. If you live in Alaska, you need a thinner W weight oil than if you lived in Nevada. Fortunately, 0w40 has the lowest available (it's zero) winter weight. That means it's suitable for Alaska (and also anywhere else warmer). This is why, no matter if you live in Alaska or Nevada, no matter if it's summer or winter, 0W40 (or 5W40 if you can find the non-diesel version) is the right oil.

The practice of switching oil based on season or location was from before dual winter weight oils. If you only had 20 or 30 weight oil, you would have to make a compromise between cold start protection and operating temperature protection, and the ambient temperature might play into that. Also if you're using cheaper oil like 10w30 vs 5w20 you might make such a compromise. With modern, dual weight synthetic oil like 0W40, you don't make this compromise.

saintz

Some of those are approved fluids and would be a fine choice. If you live in Germany, the Fuchs is probably the best bet because it's readily available, cheap, good, and approved. In the US, it's hard to find and expensive. In the US the Mobil 1 0W40 is simply the best, cheapest, readily available, approved oil. There really is no reason to run anything else unless you just can't find it or live somewhere else.

Neanicu888

Because Mobil 1 0W-40 is a superior oil and is recommended by the engineers that built our engines.
I don't see anywhere in the US where you can't find Mobil 1 0W-40 with the choices we have today : Internet,Walmart,Parts Stores etc...there's no excuse not using it.

Nocturnal-G

Believe it or not, all of the oils I mentioned are approved and meet 229.5 spec.

Oil threads always seem to spark some interesting opinions... personally after making my rockers purple and dirty with Royal Purple... I go based on what MB recommends. Royal Purple might be the "strongest oil in the world", but it has horrible cleaning ability and isn't even 229.5 spec. I've heard Pennzoil Ultra is known for it's cleaning ability, so I might go ahead with that... it is 229.5 approved.

All the 229.5 oils will do their job, it's what you are looking for in particular is what's great. Like if you choose Valvoline SynPower, they guarantee your engine until 300k miles... they have some restrictions but I think that's awesome, and it is also a 229.5 oil.

It costs a little less than Mobil 1 0w40, I'm sure it's available at AutoZone, NAPA and what not... readily available. The reviews on it seem to be great...

BlackOmega

Isn't New York "those areas"? I know you get freezing temps/snow and really hot summers.
As for "running something else", well that has more to do with the way a vehicle is driven. Like commercial vehicles, that run constantly, benefit greatly from heavier fluids as they can take more punishment. Same with race cars, they use a thicker oil, such as 20w50, because it's a lot more resilient to thermal breakdown and can "absorb" heat better than thinner oils.
If you believe that the oil remains @ 176*F, you're sorely mistaken. The only possible way the oil would stay at 176*F is if you're in a constant ambient temperature and a set constant RPM. Then you could fine tune the regulation of temps.
However, because of the broad RPM range an engine goes through, it is virtually impossible for the engine to stay at any set temperature.
So, for example, if you're out running your car to red line EVERY shift, I GUARANTEE your oil temp will be extremely high, much higher than what you're claiming.

But that's beside the point. Even ambient temperatures play a large role on that. For instance, if you're out hammering on your car in 35*F ambient temperature, your overall running temperatures will be lower; as opposed to doing the same thing in 125*F desert heat.
It has gotten so cold here, that idling in a brand new car in -35*F temps, the running temperature of the vehicle dropped significantly and it actually started blowing cold air.
Going by your theory, if oil temps are regulated to 176*F, then that would mean that the engine temperature is at least that high as well. Which in turn would mean, that my coolant is also @ 176*F, which would mean that that brand new vehicle would have heat. Simply NOT the case.

Given that ambient temperature played an enormous role on that, it is reasonable to assume that it would also have an effect on oil. And thus viscosity comes into play. If you don't believe me, go stick your cooking oil in the freezer for several hours, then pour it onto a frying pan and try to coat the pan with it. You'll see that it's consistency is very much like syrup. Now start the fire under the pan, and watch as the temperature increases, the consistency of the oil will become a lot thinner, similar viscosity to water.



Do you know why you run certain weight oils in certain vehicles and not others? It's because of metering. Most modern engines have hydraulic valve adjustment. In order for it to be adjusted properly, a certain predetermined weight was set because the holes in the lifters are a specific size. Use oil that is too thick, and the lifter will starve for oil, and not provide enough lift to the valve, not to mention lubrication and thus damage.
Use oil that is too thin, and it wont be able to build enough pressure in vital areas like the cam, rod and main bearings, leading to a spun bearing or seized cam. Wont provide enough lift in the lifter because too much oil "escapes" as the lifter is pressed.

Temperature is but one reason to run a certain weight. I've only heard 5w40 recommended for an M113 engine, not 0w40. Personally, I'd be hesitant to use it because it's too thin. I'd sooner use Syntec 5w50 than I would Mobil 1 0w40. The 5w50 will provide superior engine protection over the 0w40.

I'm curious, what do you do for a living?

Neanicu888

In the end you guys can run WD-40 penetrating oil,it doesn't matter to me,but I've been using Mobil 1 0W-40 for years in my 911 Turbo,which has a performance engine just like AMG and it's been great! I don't see why it would work for that car and not for the E55....

BlackOmega

WD40?! NO WAY! Only PB blaster!



But let me answer your question.

What works in one engine may, or may not, work in another due to metering. Metering, in a nutshell, is the diameter of the oil passages in the engine. The oil passages diameter is determined by the viscosity (thickness) of the fluid.
So if an engine calls for 5w20 and you put in 5w30, it'll, almost certainly, make the lifters tick. It's because the 5w30 is thicker and can't fill the lifter fast enough and thus can't pump them up.
Conversely, if the oil is too thin, it can create a situation where the film of oil that your crankshaft rides on too thin; which, under severe conditions, could make the crankshaft contact the bearing surface, causing it to spin, blocking the oiling hole for that journal of the crankshaft, and, subsequently, lead to catastrophic engine failure.

So ideally, you'll run the oil that is recommended for your engine unless you are 100% certain that you're going to be running in situations that are outside the scope of "normal'. Like racing, for instance.

I hope that that clarifies it for you.

Neanicu888

That sounds good BlackOmega!
I did know that it is critical to run recommended oil,I've never suggested otherwise. And since Mobil 1 0W-40 is on the list,I don't see why it'd be too thin for our cars...
And I don't see the need to switch to another brand either...

tsquare

This is absolutely correct

snooozie

Walmart $24.99 ....can't go wrong.