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Interesting...I enter the part number 113 141 05 25 on ebay and there were 164 results but all but 1 with a wrong part number (113 141 01 25). They were 50-75 dollars and the 1 with the correct number was 1100 dollars. Ebay is really crappy.
its not eBay, it’s the people posting them. They are so rare, they don’t know the difference. There is really no point of buying one of those if you want to upgrade. I would wait, and see if my car makes more power before spending the money. I think I will be in it for 600$.
but I also bought the throttle body at cost.
Running and driving. This was a good bit of work. The 74mm to 80mm adapter is a little thick. You can not use the stock intake elbow. I actually broke my original Speed43 elbow, and modified the one I just bought, and it definitely doesn’t fit! Also you will not be able to do this and keep the MAF in the stock location. I just wired it like this for now. I was in a rush, just want to make sure it runs and drives good.
If I am not to busy at work tomorrow, I will get it dynoed mid day, or tomorrow evening. Pretty excited. If this doesn’t make power, oh well. Let’s hope it does!
Well everyone! Went from 342whp to 356whp, 20plus whp over 6000 rpm. Now revving to 6500 on manual mode with my TCU tune. Torque went from 360ish to 370ish. Car feels great! I think I am all in about $600, I think it was well worth it! There is a video of the dyno also!
Last edited by eurochargedw210; 12-23-2020 at 07:58 PM.
Reason: Added
Well everyone! Went from 342whp to 356whp, 20plus whp over 6000 rpm. Now revving to 6500 on manual mode with my TCU tune. Torque went from 360ish to 370ish. Car feels great! I think I am all in about $600, I think it was well worth it! There is a video of the dyno also!
Did you do all the work yourself? That seems like a pretty good gain!
man can't wait to see how it dyno's with new headers! btw you can use MAF wiring from clk320, ml55, etc... i think the resistance of the wires matters for the MAF, something to do with information back to transmission . i had to use original wires to get it to shift like before, i have to admit it was not a big deal but i did notice difference.
p.s. i told you car will benefit from bigger TB dont think we need more than 80mm though, sweet spot is between 78-80.
This is a dodge throttle body, from a 5.7 and 6.4. Waiting on the v6 74mm throttle body to make sure the bolt pattern is the same or close enough.
The 07/08 SL55s came with the 80, they are 1600$ list and you can’t find them use. I believe well over 1000$ even at cost. But we have used BBK hellcat throttle bodies before on 113k cars. Just need a wiring adapter.
would the 2001 s600 80mm throttle body bolt up to an e55 w210?
OK maybe somebody can answer this for me, I have a 2001 E4 30, yesterday I installed a 78 mm throttlebody which was my original throttlebody I had bored out by a company. everything seem to fit fine no vacuum leaks but I kept getting a code P2004 intake manifold runner control stuck open and the car would idle up and down erratically, I scan the car and cleared the code, but the same thing car was idling up and down erratically, and when I hit the gas pedal the throttle seem to get stuck at 4000 RPM so I had to shut the car off, I checked the electrical connector to the throttlebody to make sure it wasn’t loose and it was fine, I even swapped out the black, electrical part of the throttle body from unknown good stock one with no change , SO I put another stock 74mm throttlebody on the car and it idled and ran fine. Does the car need to be tuned to use a larger throttle body?? Please advise, thank you [/QUOTE]
OK maybe somebody can answer this for me, I have a 2001 E4 30, yesterday I installed a 78 mm throttlebody which was my original throttlebody I had bored out by a company. everything seem to fit fine no vacuum leaks but I kept getting a code P2004 intake manifold runner control stuck open and the car would idle up and down erratically, I scan the car and cleared the code, but the same thing car was idling up and down erratically, and when I hit the gas pedal the throttle seem to get stuck at 4000 RPM so I had to shut the car off, I checked the electrical connector to the throttlebody to make sure it wasn’t loose and it was fine, I even swapped out the black, electrical part of the throttle body from unknown good stock one with no change , SO I put another stock 74mm throttlebody on the car and it idled and ran fine. Does the car need to be tuned to use a larger throttle body?? Please advise, thank you
[/QUOTE]
1st thing that comes to mind.
1.The electronic internals were somehow damaged upon modification. Or maybe they swapped something to make it work?
2. Did you do the throttle relearn procedure? Where you leave the key on ACC and let it sit for a couple minutes with the engine off?
1.The electronic internals were somehow damaged upon modification. Or maybe they swapped something to make it work?
2. Did you do the throttle relearn procedure? Where you leave the key on ACC and let it sit for a couple minutes with the engine off?[/QUOTE]
yea Sir i did try that procedure and i also did a throttle reset /relearn procedure option that was on my mercedes specific scanner . i also swapped the black electrical part of the bigger TB with another stock one and results were same even after the relearn and clearing the p2024 code. then I swapped back in another stock throttlebody and now the car runs normal again. I spoke to the guy that does the throttlebody boring at the throttlebody company, and he said to send it back and the problem might be with the mechanical part of the throttlebody.
This sounds like your best bet! Hopefully that fixes it. How much was the cost of going from 74 to 78?
UPDATE!: I got the throttlebody back from the guy again and now the car is running flawlessly. It’s a 78 mm throttlebody! now I did have to do a full sensor reset using the Foxwell NT 530 scanner and also reset adaptations and then it idled beautifully after that. it’s a definite noticeable increase in acceleration and I want to say about 20 hp? anyway, for 200 bucks it was worth it.
The car drives much easier now it’s 3500 RPMs without even trying just cruising around town, I know that’s the sweet spot for talking these cars
UPDATE!: I got the throttlebody back from the guy again and now the car is running flawlessly. It’s a 78 mm throttlebody! now I did have to do a full sensor reset using the Foxwell NT 530 scanner and also reset adaptations and then it idled beautifully after that. it’s a definite noticeable increase in acceleration and I want to say about 20 hp? anyway, for 200 bucks it was worth it.
The car drives much easier now it’s 3500 RPMs without even trying just cruising around town, I know that’s the sweet spot for talking these cars
Awesome thanks for the update. Where am I sending my TB lol?
idk , mine is the 125 TB , I grabbed a used one off of ebay and had it bored
yea my car is a 2000 so my only option would be this. A service that maintains the electronic/mechanical function but maxes out the housing to be as large as possible.
the early models of 98-00 "M113" uses external mechanical spring & round TB connector,
operated via "ME2.0" with part #: "113 141 00 25"
while late models of 01-06 "M113" uses fully electronic & internal small spring, with square TB connector,
operated via "ME2.8" with part #: "113 141 01 25"
the early models of 98-00 "M113" uses external mechanical spring & round TB connector,
operated via "ME2.0" with part #: "113 141 00 25"
while late models of 01-06 "M113" uses fully electronic & internal small spring, with square TB connector,
operated via "ME2.8" with part #: "113 141 01 25"
why? the c43 is the same engine and throttle body, just different cams
a 74mm is just too small for the e430, a 78-80mm is perfect. After running a bigger throttle body for some time it seems they used the small 74mm for gas mileage. The 80mm puts the car into the sweet spot of the torque band all of the time like it should be. 3000-3200 rpm when just driving normally through traffic. Pulls the car along very nice
12-22-2020, 01:23 PM
. i had to use original wires to get it to shift like before, i have to admit it was not a big deal but i did notice difference.
dont think we need more than 80mm though, sweet spot is between 78-80.
