Yeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaa Boooooooooooyyyyyyyyyy!!!
#29
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04E55AMG, 05Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab, 02Montero Limited
Originally Posted by Peter B
but in the wetbox, when it was dry 10 times, i can smoke em as long as i wanted? i know what dyno mode is but if i am smokin em am i missing something. help me out spero, you saw it!!!
Bro,
This is true. I have power braked and spun my wheels for over 15 secs. It creates plenty of smoke an looks very cool. It will roast your tires.
Maybe since Derek has DR's & LSD it is harder to make happen. We both had street tires and no LSD.
Last edited by 04E55 AMG; 06-07-2005 at 08:01 AM.
#31
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CTSV/6sp Grocery Getter
Some great pictures of these CCW's on a Cobra (for sale on SVTperformance.com)
http://www.kpapartments.com/cobra/photoshoot/cobra.html
http://www.kpapartments.com/cobra/photoshoot/cobra.html
#32
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04E55AMG, 05Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab, 02Montero Limited
Originally Posted by DerekFSU
Interesting point, do they both smoke without a LSD?
I should have my car back today or tomorrow with LSD installed so I can test this out.
#33
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07 S65
Originally Posted by DerekFSU
Interesting point, do they both smoke without a LSD?
Derrick
#34
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Originally Posted by Marcus Frost
Derek,
You are approaching the limitation of the stock stall converter on these cars, you won't be able to come out harder without increasing the stock speed. I seriously question how much benefit with the stock stall speed you are going to see by going to M/Ts.
If you want to go quicker, I honestly think you are going to need more MPH. Get yourself a set of the HRE C-series wheels, and the two piece rotors from Evosport. Drop yourself a good 100lbs+++, and that'll help improve your trap speed. It also reduces unsprung weight, which is easier on the drivetrain = more reliability, and less resistance when launching. Depending on how extreme you want to go, there are a couple of other weight saving ideas you could do as well.
That's my opinion.
-m
You are approaching the limitation of the stock stall converter on these cars, you won't be able to come out harder without increasing the stock speed. I seriously question how much benefit with the stock stall speed you are going to see by going to M/Ts.
If you want to go quicker, I honestly think you are going to need more MPH. Get yourself a set of the HRE C-series wheels, and the two piece rotors from Evosport. Drop yourself a good 100lbs+++, and that'll help improve your trap speed. It also reduces unsprung weight, which is easier on the drivetrain = more reliability, and less resistance when launching. Depending on how extreme you want to go, there are a couple of other weight saving ideas you could do as well.
That's my opinion.
-m
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#35
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Is there any real way to actually "beef up" the amg drive train??
If money was no object...wonder if putting in a DTM rear and half shafts would help to strengthen it. Other than that.....we are kinda screwed aren't we. Imagine calling Strange Axles...."Yeah looking for an axle......yeah, for a 100,000$ Mercedes Benz....hello...hello"
If money was no object...wonder if putting in a DTM rear and half shafts would help to strengthen it. Other than that.....we are kinda screwed aren't we. Imagine calling Strange Axles...."Yeah looking for an axle......yeah, for a 100,000$ Mercedes Benz....hello...hello"
#36
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im trying to work with a guy to make me cf/titanium drive shafts and half shafts. now just need to see about evo's new lsd they are hopefully working on and a tranny upg and i should be set for 1,000hp!!!
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#38
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'03 G500, '13 G63, '17 GLS63,
I want to see a higher stall converter for these cars.
BTW, ricky.agrawal, they don't make the CCW Classics in bigger sizes than 18s. However, some of their SP series wheels do come in 20s, but they are one piece design.
BTW, ricky.agrawal, they don't make the CCW Classics in bigger sizes than 18s. However, some of their SP series wheels do come in 20s, but they are one piece design.
#39
Originally Posted by Peter B
im trying to work with a guy to make me cf/titanium drive shafts and half shafts. now just need to see about evo's new lsd they are hopefully working on and a tranny upg and i should be set for 1,000hp!!! ![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
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medici78: Ah, darn, might as well go Avus if I wanted one piece. I guess it's back to the drawing board for me
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#40
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they are 18lbs but since the diameter is smaller there is additional help in that. cf driveshafts have been around a good while with no problems. just power brake to 2k where what, 90% of tq is available? plus it takes up the slack in the drivetrain. its a quasi-ssc.
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'03 G500, '13 G63, '17 GLS63,
Originally Posted by ricky.agrawal
I thought carbon fiber wouldn't be able to withstand the extreme heat?
medici78: Ah, darn, might as well go Avus if I wanted one piece. I guess it's back to the drawing board for me
Thanks for the heads up, I didn't even notice that.
medici78: Ah, darn, might as well go Avus if I wanted one piece. I guess it's back to the drawing board for me
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#45
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Still can't believe the story bout the guy who is dropping his 55 into drive from neutral at 3500rpms on the line.....ouch!!
I emailed Kleemann bout rear end beefing....just chatting back and forth bout options. Just some parts of the our conversation.
Was asking them bout maybe putting the monster rear from the S65 in the E...
E classes share drive line parts with SL's. W211 and R230 are direct swaps (to some degree). S and CL share drive line parts.
The primary problem here is the rear and how it mounts to the sub frame. One cannot put in a S/CL rear as the mounting points are all wrong. You are limited to the E/SL parts bin. Unfortunately (perhaps not) the SL65 has the same size ring and pinion as a SL55/E55- there is no real reason to replace on with the other as you gain no size advantage of ring or pinion, strength etc.
The half shafts are different diameter from the SL 500 to 55 to 600 to 65, as are their lengths. The drive failures I have seen (drag racing only) are the pinion shaft shearing in two or breaking teeth which half shafts will not help.
The S/CL 65 diff is the whopper of them all. One would have to make a bespoke mounting system to bolt that huge diff into the E sub frame and then do something about the half shafts and making it into a locker. The drive shaft flange will also need to be changed on the diff side. I am not even sure this is physically possible or not. It may be cheaper just to explode rear ends trying to launch it. I could see how it would be most cost effective to buy a new E diff, cryogenically treat all parts, reassemble and weld it "closed" (permanent 100% locked) and use this just for the drag racing. You would have xx number of runs before something (I'd bet the pinion gear) catastrophically failed.
I emailed Kleemann bout rear end beefing....just chatting back and forth bout options. Just some parts of the our conversation.
Was asking them bout maybe putting the monster rear from the S65 in the E...
E classes share drive line parts with SL's. W211 and R230 are direct swaps (to some degree). S and CL share drive line parts.
The primary problem here is the rear and how it mounts to the sub frame. One cannot put in a S/CL rear as the mounting points are all wrong. You are limited to the E/SL parts bin. Unfortunately (perhaps not) the SL65 has the same size ring and pinion as a SL55/E55- there is no real reason to replace on with the other as you gain no size advantage of ring or pinion, strength etc.
The half shafts are different diameter from the SL 500 to 55 to 600 to 65, as are their lengths. The drive failures I have seen (drag racing only) are the pinion shaft shearing in two or breaking teeth which half shafts will not help.
The S/CL 65 diff is the whopper of them all. One would have to make a bespoke mounting system to bolt that huge diff into the E sub frame and then do something about the half shafts and making it into a locker. The drive shaft flange will also need to be changed on the diff side. I am not even sure this is physically possible or not. It may be cheaper just to explode rear ends trying to launch it. I could see how it would be most cost effective to buy a new E diff, cryogenically treat all parts, reassemble and weld it "closed" (permanent 100% locked) and use this just for the drag racing. You would have xx number of runs before something (I'd bet the pinion gear) catastrophically failed.
#46
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Spero, Mike, and all the other E55's at the track were melting tires like ice cubes in 100 degree weather
I think you're biggest problem was traction on that day.
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#50
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Originally Posted by SamE55
IMO with those wheels you'll definitely go faster but they just don't look right on the E55. I would consider getting them for drag racing only.