e55 baller

I agree, when I tested it out yesterday 4 out of 6 times it worked...there was no theme to it. This morning in 64 degree weather I punched it at 35mph and NADA.

vraa

http://www.nology.com/pdadyno.html

Someone experienced suggested it to me. I trust him.

mrankovic

Do any of you guys with power loss problems have any problems starting your cars when cold? I haven't had your horrible power loss problems (touch wood), but I did have a fuel pressure problem on cold start a little while ago. And the deal tried a number of things (fuel pressure sensor, some other temperature sensor, and something else MB techs told them to try). They had the car for a week so clearly they couldn't really figure it out, which usually means the workings are damn complex. So maybe you guys are suffering some kind of failure in the fuel pressure system. It's obviously not what I had, as my car literally wouldn't start, but since the system appears complex, possibly you have a different manifestation of a fuel pressure problem...

E55 Rocket

Hi Mrannkovic- No, I have not experienced any problems relating to starting my vehicle (either cold or hot).

OzE55

Many, many years ago I had a car with a fuel vapourisation problem. After long, hot running if you turned the engine off (and the under hood temperature rose) the car wouldn't re-start, till it cooled down. That doesn't sound like this problem.
It also doesnt sound electrical if the car still runs and revs smoothly, but under powered. Similarly if fuel supply to some cylinders/injectors was a problem it shouldn't rev smoothly.
Does sound like a supercharger problem or a "safety" mechanism cutting in to shutdown the supercharger because of heat or something....my 2 cents worth.

e55 baller

I have not had any problems starting my car but what I have noticed on several ocassions is at around 30 mph or so when I am partially throttle (normal acceleration) the car jerks for a split second sort of like the fuel has been cut abruptly, then everything is normal.

It sort of feels like the chirp sound at around 10-20 mph I get when the supercharger clutch engages at ~2K rpms but with a force enough to make me shift forward a few inches in my seat...its very strange.

e55 baller

RPM confirmed what I had suspected -- something wrong with the Evo cooling system piping installation -- not the EVO system. Apparently a hose was too short and a clamp cut through a hose.

I am hoping this is it, if not I am back to the drawing board :-(

Vic55

Who did your install? I am lucky that I live close enough to have Evosport do the install. It seems like that would be the culprit.

BenzoBoi

So if I go the evosport to do some installin of my own, will you lend me your car while they do the install for me?

e55 baller

The one weird thing that still may not make sense is that I saw this spray the DAY I drove home the car 6 weeks ago and it was a beast for 5 weeks.

If this does not fix it I think I found a cool dealer that will look the car over. Will keep you all posted.

M5KILLR

i have my intake tubes wrapped and mine still stammered but for only 45 seconds. im having to take my car to the mechanic to put some stuff on and am going to have my evo pump with a piggy back toggle switch so i can turn it on when i want then leave it off for the ecu to turn it on or off. the sc just puts off sooooooo much heat i think a hood vent is the only cure. my departed sl 7.4 renntech had a nice hood vent done but renn doesnt do that anymore and you could see the heat streaming out of that thing.


ps. has anyone seen the coolant icon flash on the display when the car bogs like mine did?

vrus

Mike,

Brad told me that the EVO pump runs whenever the engine is on. Its not like the stock pump that gets turned on by the ECU. Did you maybe wire it wrong? It should be wired to a constant +12V source so it runs as soon as the ignition is on.

e55 baller

I have never seen a coolant flash on my speedometer area ever.

Also the Evo pump does run independant from the ECU, after I turn off the car the pump runs for another 5-10 seconds. Its loud as hell...maybe because the damn think had a leak. It buzzes as loud or louder than my old fuel pump which supported 850 and then 1000 cc injectors on my Supra.

What can we do about a hood vent? I am about ready to have someone fabricate something, this car Intake charge temps run 20-30C higher than my RX7 heat bomb in daily driving.

Btw, RPM just replaced the faulty EVO piping and ran the car and it experience similar issues but then noticed there were bubbles in the cooling system.

SF_E55

Has anybody figured out what is causing the powerloss? I have a stock 04 E55 with 20k miles that just started having this problem. The dealer thought it might be the transmission control unit, but changing it has not made a difference. Like others it seems as if the supercharger is not engaging. So far this has only occured with the car warmed up, and after 2-3 hard runs through first gear. Anyone get this problem resolved yet? Thanks.

e55 baller

It happened on mine due to a faulty EVO Cooling kit install...it was bad...I was down 100rwhp and my A/F at the time was under 10.0 (off the dyno plot). If you don't hear the chirp or feel the supercharger engage it is because it isn't...the IATs are too high...mine were as high as like 185 C...ridiculous. I had a leaking Evo hose. Check your stock bosch pump, its likely bad.

jamusa

I had the same problem last night running with a 04 Cobra......after i ,ran and beat the cobra twice the car just lost power on top end.About 15 minutes later the car felt fine again.The car had never done this before,until after i had done a ecu/filter/pully mod..............dont know what to say about heat,it was about mid twenties

TopGun32

believe it or not.. even my c32 has felt the loss of the kompressor. However, it would come on if I NAIL the pedal to floor or if I downshift through the manu-matic selection.

I took the car for my final inspection and everything was ok per the dealer. The car is running strong and no more kompressor loss.

It happened during a summer month and when driving aggressively.

It makes sense that a mod pulley and chip will make the car run hotter.. but for those who have the cooling kit and still loosing power... it does not add up.

Coalman

I've experienced a similar problem with bone stock 2003 E55. May sound goofy, but I believe problem my problem was that car simply did not downshift after I got rolling. As a result it feels like a slug. If I keep it in first, power comes on like gangbusters.

MBE55AMG

Has anyone tried resetting the vehicle driver's "adapation" feature? It has something that goes along these lines:

1) Turn key all the way until all lights come on (right before turning fully to turn the engine on)
2) Step on the gas pedal for 5 seconds
3) Release and turn key to off position (don't take it out)
4) Wait 2 minutes (for all the parts to reset)
5) Turn on engine finally and go on driving

The above steps actually felt like acceleration has improved for me each time I did it, which was every other time.

I have no idea if my gathered intelligence ( :p ) has anything to do with this topic, but it helped me for sure.

mclarenm8d

Yeah, I've done that with Audi's for clearing out the learning features ("adaptation"). With Audi's, the common thought is that it helps tranny shifting, but this is actually due to the relationship of the system re-calculating where full throttle, part throttle, and no throttle is set relative to the pedal input.

But haven't tried it on the MB yet, thanks for the info that it works.

If you listen closely, you can hear the throttle controller cycling to find min and maxes.

... and it makes sense to me that the Motronic systems on the Audi and MB would be using the similar adaptation channels.

What would really be cool is if Lemmiwinks works on our systems (yes! believe it or not that is the name of the software). But, I don't think anyone has used this software on anything but VAG cars. It would be nice if I could change the idle torque additive offset and ignition timing on my CL55 to trick DME to engage the supercharger sooner. I've done a lot of this stuff with 4.2 Audi's, but I don't have the guts to be the first one to try it on our uber-expensive 55K's. Oh, and with Lemmiwinks you can also effectively eliminate the speed limiter.

http://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2041675.phtml

PTE

Hood louvers are easly and I've experienced the same heat soak in traffic here in S.FLA . Blower belts lifting off at high rpm / Feet per second. Alignment and pulley angle must be Dead nuts on. With in Thousands of an inch.
I know this one might be hard to believe , but a high rpm you can compress some air under the poly vee belt ribs and between the pulley grooves. This can lift the belt and you can lose belt grip?? on the blower pully . My fix was to drill little .o25 holes in the bottom of the pulley grooves . you got to stagger them as so not to weaken them . Deburr & clean up the pulley . This may let the air exit the groove. Don't know if this will work on a MB Kompressor . But it worked on drag mtrs built for other car application. This may seem a little out of place , But it is food for thought

Vadim @ evosport

It is the intercooler pump. Have dealer scan the car with STAR. There should be codes stored for intake temp reaching a limit.

See above...

Also do a search on "intercooler pump" we have talked about their failure on numerous threads over the last several years.

Good Luck at the dealer!

SF_E55

Thanks for the input guys, I think Vadim is right, car is at the dealer now and it looks like it may be an intercooler pump failure. I'll find out more tomorrow.

stevebez

What fuel are you guys running ... ? The car will also pull timing with respect to IAT AND the Octane fuel being used.

I would expect timing would be pulled on low octane fuel ... having said this when I had an E55 for w/e test took a friend for a quick blast. WOT in 1st from rolling start and most of second ... then made our way onto freeway within 2-3 mins and nada ... car felt like a 220 diesel (non-turbo). ~2000 miles on car at the time. I reckon heat issues.

BTW when we talk heat issues ... are we not talking about onset of pre-ignition ... if u running 100 octane or so IAT's can be much higher no ?

What IAT's can the oil and motor cope with ? From a power persepctive the hotter the combustion temp the more power you will get as the greater the heat differential bewteen IAT's and EAT's will be. Air would have expanded more ...

Problem you run into is with higher IAT's, EAT's will need to be higher again to get same power... and then you run into breathing efficiency...

Rgds Steve.