Depressing 394 rwhp Stage 2+ Dyno -- Help Please!
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Originally Posted by vrus
And that's exactly why I am upgrading 1 piece at a time and dyno'ing...
Gotta see what works and what doesn't... Dyno time isn't cheap, but at least you have piece of mind in knowing that your car is running perfectly after every component change.
I am sure E55_Baller will be fine once he gets the cooling system working properly. I suspect even if he does, the Hennessey pulley is just making way too much boost and his dyno graph will probably show some serious drop-off at high RPM.
E55_Baller: Any updates on the situation?? Is RPM taking care of you?
Gotta see what works and what doesn't... Dyno time isn't cheap, but at least you have piece of mind in knowing that your car is running perfectly after every component change.
I am sure E55_Baller will be fine once he gets the cooling system working properly. I suspect even if he does, the Hennessey pulley is just making way too much boost and his dyno graph will probably show some serious drop-off at high RPM.
E55_Baller: Any updates on the situation?? Is RPM taking care of you?
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario
2003 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by BoostedV8
The Hennessey pulley kit takes the stock boost from 11 psi to 14 psi. I would guess that the over priced kit from Renntech makes about the same gain in boost pressure while costing about $3500 more.
I am very curious to see what the graph looks like. I've been wanting to do a comparison for a while but have never had the opportunity to review someone's graph with pulley & headers.
I would very much appreciate it if you could post it.. I am sure others would love to see it also.
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From: S.E. FLA.
05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Look at This
I know that this may not be your total problem. But after many dyno runs on a dyno Jet. Trying to optimize The engines output. Working with Cory @ Kleenmann, Changing A/F ratios & Spark advance. We finally got it were I wanted it. This took 16 dyno runs on a engine that had 8900 miles & the original S/Ps . Cory warned me about using a tail pipe / muffler , at the exit of the rear of the car, for A/F ratio calibration changes . All was well until I changed to a low restriction muffler . 17th run on the dyno . I lost hp/ and the cats where smokin a$$ hot. I sent back the ECU to Kleenmann. All though I did see much change in the tail pipe readings. I asked that the ecu be changed back to file #2??. In the mean time I pulled the spark Plugs to check the color. They told the story!! I know my mtr is a N/A 5.5 amg. , I now own a Innovate Motorsports LM-1 wide band Digital A/F ratio meter.
So what am I getting at here . The spark plugs will be the first thing to take the HIT. (in my opinion) . Find & fix your issues . AE , fuel , vaccum leak, hot IAT. . then change your S/Ps. they may look good !! But they also may be glazed. It has been known the the spark may not jump the gap at extreme high F/A ratios , but instead run down the ctr insulator ,then jump over to the steel case. This will give you retarded spark on that cyl. & poor flame probagation. of coarse , I, could be all wet here?? Just so food for thought. Evolution Marine Bob Attach are the picture s I promised you
So what am I getting at here . The spark plugs will be the first thing to take the HIT. (in my opinion) . Find & fix your issues . AE , fuel , vaccum leak, hot IAT. . then change your S/Ps. they may look good !! But they also may be glazed. It has been known the the spark may not jump the gap at extreme high F/A ratios , but instead run down the ctr insulator ,then jump over to the steel case. This will give you retarded spark on that cyl. & poor flame probagation. of coarse , I, could be all wet here?? Just so food for thought. Evolution Marine Bob Attach are the picture s I promised you
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From: Boston
E55 Baller,
What everyone has said makes sense. However, there is an old acronym I always think of when trying to diagnose a problem KISS -> Keep It Simple Stupid. (not referring to you) So, why not look at the following non-invasive factors before digging deep into your engine:
1) What kind of tire or tread amount did you have on your car during the last dyno. If there is even the littlest wheel spin during dyno due to traction problems, this will fool the computer into outputting a lower reading. I had my E39 M5 dynoed with snow tires and read 314 rwhp, and when I put my stock tires on the reading was 338 rwhp.
2) How many fans were blowing? Was this the same facility during testing of your car at all stages of modification? Were ALL factors consistent, i.e. the machine, the number and kind of fans, the outside temp, the type of tire, etc.
Let us know and good luck
What everyone has said makes sense. However, there is an old acronym I always think of when trying to diagnose a problem KISS -> Keep It Simple Stupid. (not referring to you) So, why not look at the following non-invasive factors before digging deep into your engine:
1) What kind of tire or tread amount did you have on your car during the last dyno. If there is even the littlest wheel spin during dyno due to traction problems, this will fool the computer into outputting a lower reading. I had my E39 M5 dynoed with snow tires and read 314 rwhp, and when I put my stock tires on the reading was 338 rwhp.
2) How many fans were blowing? Was this the same facility during testing of your car at all stages of modification? Were ALL factors consistent, i.e. the machine, the number and kind of fans, the outside temp, the type of tire, etc.
Let us know and good luck
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Vancouver, British Columbia
04 E55
Originally Posted by BoostedV8
Rules to live by for anyone upgrading a car:
1. Get a stock baseline dyno test - perferably on a dynojet.
2. Dyno your car the same way everytime - cold or driven to the dyno shop then run hot.
3. Re-dyno your mods one at a time. If you mod 3 things at once and you dont get the power you think you should then how are you going to know which upgrade is screwing you?
4. Get your upgrades from one source. if you get a part here and a part there and get some internet advice and then add some split fire plugs and playboy air freshener and then your car dont make the power or runs like crap - who are your going to blame? thats right - Yourself! if you get all the stuff from one supplier and it dont work, then who you going to blame? the Supplier!
I know these facts to be true as I have been down this road a few times. Sorry you are in the place you are in. But if you want to get it fixed, then I suggest you put it all back to stock and start adding back the mods one at a time and using the dyno each time to verify. It will cost you some time and money but will be worth it for your peace of mind.
1. Get a stock baseline dyno test - perferably on a dynojet.
2. Dyno your car the same way everytime - cold or driven to the dyno shop then run hot.
3. Re-dyno your mods one at a time. If you mod 3 things at once and you dont get the power you think you should then how are you going to know which upgrade is screwing you?
4. Get your upgrades from one source. if you get a part here and a part there and get some internet advice and then add some split fire plugs and playboy air freshener and then your car dont make the power or runs like crap - who are your going to blame? thats right - Yourself! if you get all the stuff from one supplier and it dont work, then who you going to blame? the Supplier!
I know these facts to be true as I have been down this road a few times. Sorry you are in the place you are in. But if you want to get it fixed, then I suggest you put it all back to stock and start adding back the mods one at a time and using the dyno each time to verify. It will cost you some time and money but will be worth it for your peace of mind.
Isn't It contradicting saying all this when you yourself have mods from 2 different companies.
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Originally Posted by PTE
I know that this may not be your total problem. But after many dyno runs on a dyno Jet. Trying to optimize The engines output. Working with Cory @ Kleenmann, Changing A/F ratios & Spark advance. We finally got it were I wanted it. This took 16 dyno runs on a engine that had 8900 miles & the original S/Ps . Cory warned me about using a tail pipe / muffler , at the exit of the rear of the car, for A/F ratio calibration changes . All was well until I changed to a low restriction muffler . 17th run on the dyno . I lost hp/ and the cats where smokin a$$ hot. I sent back the ECU to Kleenmann. All though I did see much change in the tail pipe readings. I asked that the ecu be changed back to file #2??. In the mean time I pulled the spark Plugs to check the color. They told the story!! I know my mtr is a N/A 5.5 amg. , I now own a Innovate Motorsports LM-1 wide band Digital A/F ratio meter.
So what am I getting at here . The spark plugs will be the first thing to take the HIT. (in my opinion) . Find & fix your issues . AE , fuel , vaccum leak, hot IAT. . then change your S/Ps. they may look good !! But they also may be glazed. It has been known the the spark may not jump the gap at extreme high F/A ratios , but instead run down the ctr insulator ,then jump over to the steel case. This will give you retarded spark on that cyl. & poor flame probagation. of coarse , I, could be all wet here?? Just so food for thought. Evolution Marine Bob Attach are the picture s I promised you
So what am I getting at here . The spark plugs will be the first thing to take the HIT. (in my opinion) . Find & fix your issues . AE , fuel , vaccum leak, hot IAT. . then change your S/Ps. they may look good !! But they also may be glazed. It has been known the the spark may not jump the gap at extreme high F/A ratios , but instead run down the ctr insulator ,then jump over to the steel case. This will give you retarded spark on that cyl. & poor flame probagation. of coarse , I, could be all wet here?? Just so food for thought. Evolution Marine Bob Attach are the picture s I promised you
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From: S.E. FLA.
05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Look at this too
Thanks Grumpy666.
Its was hard to use the camera , with a steady hand on a Close up. The S/Ps near the front of the mtr were light-almost white ,Tanish in color. Their ok . The rear cylinders S/Ps are the ones I was worried about and Photoed . They are grayish & the J-strap looked like it started to blue, from heat. I assume the rear cylinders run hotter than the rest, Because all the other exhaust tubes are longer and can carry off some of the heat . Where as the rear ones are shorter and closer to the collector flange point.
I know that once a S/P is damaged , you got to replace it. I did use a very small amount of Wurth1100 High adheasive lub. Anti-corrosion graphite base paste. Saids it good to temperature resistant up to 2000 F. The ECU is back from Kleenmann, They have been great. It was not their issue. It was mine.
What I was getting at , was for the above listed . Was to go look at the S/Ps . Once they find the fault and fix it . they may still be down on POWER. S/Ps can be damaged in as little as 4 seconds at^6000 rpm. Start out with a fresh set. Thanks again for your help.
Its was hard to use the camera , with a steady hand on a Close up. The S/Ps near the front of the mtr were light-almost white ,Tanish in color. Their ok . The rear cylinders S/Ps are the ones I was worried about and Photoed . They are grayish & the J-strap looked like it started to blue, from heat. I assume the rear cylinders run hotter than the rest, Because all the other exhaust tubes are longer and can carry off some of the heat . Where as the rear ones are shorter and closer to the collector flange point.
I know that once a S/P is damaged , you got to replace it. I did use a very small amount of Wurth1100 High adheasive lub. Anti-corrosion graphite base paste. Saids it good to temperature resistant up to 2000 F. The ECU is back from Kleenmann, They have been great. It was not their issue. It was mine.
What I was getting at , was for the above listed . Was to go look at the S/Ps . Once they find the fault and fix it . they may still be down on POWER. S/Ps can be damaged in as little as 4 seconds at^6000 rpm. Start out with a fresh set. Thanks again for your help.
Thread Starter
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W221 S65 AMG
I had continentials on one dyno, and 2 weeks later had PS2's on the next dyno runs. Both runs illustrated the same bad results. I just got my Volvo outta the car shop so the E55 goes in this week.
I will also look at the plugs. I bet they are black from running very rich.
I will also look at the plugs. I bet they are black from running very rich.
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From: Frederick, MD
'72 Suburban
e55 baller, I don't have much E experience, but if you need a hand wrenching hit me up. I have about as many tools as the average NASCAR pitcrew and even though my C5 is on jackstands right now, we can probably squeeze into the garage 
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W221 S65 AMG
Wayne,
Thank you very much for your offer...I will let you know if I need to connect up with you. I took the car to one shop and they did not know what the F was going on. I finally took the car to MBenz and I just got a call that they fixed it. I will see. The place I goto has told me that they are mod friendly
Thank you very much for your offer...I will let you know if I need to connect up with you. I took the car to one shop and they did not know what the F was going on. I finally took the car to MBenz and I just got a call that they fixed it. I will see. The place I goto has told me that they are mod friendly
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From: El Paso, TX
'03 G500, '13 G63, '17 GLS63,
Originally Posted by e55 baller
Wayne,
Thank you very much for your offer...I will let you know if I need to connect up with you. I took the car to one shop and they did not know what the F was going on. I finally took the car to MBenz and I just got a call that they fixed it. I will see. The place I goto has told me that they are mod friendly
Thank you very much for your offer...I will let you know if I need to connect up with you. I took the car to one shop and they did not know what the F was going on. I finally took the car to MBenz and I just got a call that they fixed it. I will see. The place I goto has told me that they are mod friendly
Thread Starter
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W221 S65 AMG
they said the lower left hose from the Johnston pump to the additional heat exchanger was leaking....we will see what I drive it toniight if it is working. I asked them to run some IATs to confirm...more to come.
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario
2003 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by e55 baller
they said the lower left hose from the Johnston pump to the additional heat exchanger was leaking....we will see what I drive it toniight if it is working. I asked them to run some IATs to confirm...more to come.
I should have mentioned that one to you... That is the one that has no "END" to it right? It has an AN fitting on one side and the other side is bare and just slides over the bib on the heat exchanger?That one gave me some trouble but we figured out how to make it work.
If so, that hose SHOULD NOT be pushed all the way to the end of the bib on the heat exchanger. If you do push it all the way down, no matter how tight you make the clamp it will leak fluid! You need to move the hose back 1/8" off the end of the bib and put the clamp HALF WAY onto the bib. Tighten it BY HAND until it wont turn any more.
I can't believe RPM didn't do a leak test before giving you back the car... Geez...
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W221 S65 AMG
I can't believe it either about RPM. Well the MBenz techs said the IATs were about 150 F...does that seem right? Idling on the Dyno my temp was 156 F then 279 peak at WOT.
I will get more details when i stop by there tonight.
Mike M's black E55 is a beast...he supposedly has just headers with stock s/w chip, and cut out cats and i saw a 455rwhp dyno and 490 rwtq....others with the full stage 2 packages were getting like 460 rwhp and 520 rwtq.
I will get more details when i stop by there tonight.
Mike M's black E55 is a beast...he supposedly has just headers with stock s/w chip, and cut out cats and i saw a 455rwhp dyno and 490 rwtq....others with the full stage 2 packages were getting like 460 rwhp and 520 rwtq.
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From: Maryland
04E55AMG, 05Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab, 02Montero Limited
Mike is a great guy and has a nice shop. He did my snorkle mod and put his lowering kit on my car. We both went to the track last spring when I ran my 11.89 and his car was running in 12.2's.
He has my car on his site
He has my car on his site
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From: Sydney, Australia
2017 S63 Coupe Iridium Silver
Originally Posted by CoryU
I'd be willing to bet that if you put our pulley on the car, it would make more power.
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From: Northern Virginia / D.C.
01 LORINSER CLK 430 - 02 KLEEMANN CLK55 - 88 Euro / Jap AMG 560 SEC Widebody - 16 AMG GTS
Originally Posted by e55 baller
The place I goto has told me that they are mod friendly
Good luck with your search for the missing power....
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From: Maryland
04E55AMG, 05Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab, 02Montero Limited
Originally Posted by e55 baller
Hey 04E55 AMG --I gave you a buzz the other day, was returning your call...want to catch up and see your platnium blue E55. Have you bested your 11.89 with the LSD?
Did you leave a message? Have not had a chance to get back to the track with the LSD installed. Was thinking about getting all us nuts to go back to Capital next month once the temps get lower.
Maybe you can make it to this one. We had a great turn out last Spring.
Thinking about going up to NJ next month to MB HQ with the group for the day event.
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From: Maryland
07 S65
Originally Posted by 04E55 AMG
Mike is a great guy and has a nice shop. He did my snorkle mod and put his lowering kit on my car. We both went to the track last spring when I ran my 11.89 and his car was running in 12.2's.
He has my car on his site
He has my car on his site
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario
2003 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by DJe55
Did he run that 12.20 with the headers and cat delete? I am assuming no. Whose headers is he running to give him that much horsepower?
I am assuming the 12.20 was a stock run.. Either that or he had a crappy launch.
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From: Maryland
04E55AMG, 05Dodge RAM 1500 Quad Cab, 02Montero Limited
Originally Posted by DJe55
Did he run that 12.20 with the headers and cat delete? I am assuming no. Whose headers is he running to give him that much horsepower?
He had the high flo cats and the Y pipe installed. Not aware if he has headers on the car now. He did not have headers since he was looking to make his own last Spring.
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario
2003 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by 04E55 AMG
He had the high flo cats and the Y pipe installed. Not aware if he has headers on the car now. He did not have headers since he was looking to make his own last Spring.
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W221 S65 AMG
Lowphat -- PM me and I will let you know about the dealer info.
Spero-I definitely want to take my car out to Capital this time around and perhaps go up to MB in NJ next month.
Spero-I definitely want to take my car out to Capital this time around and perhaps go up to MB in NJ next month.
