SterlingE55

Just remembered I have the work instructions for how to remove the subwoofer send me a PM with your email address and I can shoot them to you.

izzyz28

I have a Blaupunkt Velocity 12(1200W rms) in a sealed box. I just replaced the 300/1 amp I had with a 1200/1 amp because I wasn't happy with my setup. It is much much louder now, but muddy as hell(just like the old setup). It sounds clean when standing at the back with the trunk open, so I am assuming the muddiness is from all of the heavy gauge metal and sound deadening in the car. I am planning on removing the factory sub, but am not prepared to a free-air or box-sealed-to-the-deck setup just yet. Will removing the factory sub and opening up the hole make a decent difference? I know it's not the best setup, but I want it to sound at least a little cleaner.

gazzychaz

I know its way after the post was last touched, but do you still have the instructions you mentioned in removing the subwoofer? Thanks in advance, chaz

mikekuriger

wow that's nice. I left the stock sub in place, but un plugged it and attached those wires to an amplified sub box I took out of another car. your solution is much nicer!

SterlingE55

Yup. PM me your email address and I'll send them over.

madaniann

Hi, do you still have the instructions for taking out the subwoofer? Do you also know a good aftermarket replacement so I don't have to do any rewiring? Thanks in advance!

AMGPilot

The problem isn't the speakers it's the crappy amp

Infiniti

I too need to know how to remove the subwoofer I have searched but have not come up with anything

madaniann

I agree that the amp is not the best, but after reading numerous threads with many having the same problem, I think the subwoofer is blown. There is a lot of information on adding a new subwoofer with another amp but I really just want to replace the original with another comparable woofer without spending $650 or more on OEM. Any help or suggestions are really appreciated.

I beleive the system is HK since I have logic 7 (read on other posts)

e563

Hey could you also send me them too, I appreciate it .

eljefe7070

Thinking about installing a 10 inch JLW0 sub that is collecting dust in my garage where the stock sub sits. Should I even use an aftermarket amp?

James M

Where the hell was this post a month ago when I was trying to figure this lot out? I also removed my stock sub and made the mistake of installing 2 x 1500W 12 inch subs in a ported enclosure in my boot. I ran them off a 3200W amp that I installed in my wheel well. Everything fit snugly until a couple of hard runs, when I heard a thud in my boot. Even with tons of velcro and the enclosure squeezed tightly into the back section of the boot, the whole lot would roll over. The added weight was also an issue for me, but the biggest issue was the sound quality. Muddy as all hell and waaaay too much bass. My car vibrated so bad that I had to bend all my exhaust heat sheilding away from any body work and even the doors rattled. I am also completely **** about squeaks and rattles in my car, so this completely did my head in. All I wanted was to add a little more punch and depth to an already great factory system. I am so disappointed in myself, because I destroyed the factory sub when removing it and the cost/time/frustration of the entire DIY install.
Wish I had just left it stock! I have since then removed my new subs and amp and I have been looking at trying something like your setup. I am going to go for a JL audio 10" or 12" flat sub mounted onto the rear deck and I am so glad that I saw you using wood/sound proofing, because this is something I would have overlooked. I am going to experiment with mounting it firing down into the boot and firing up to see which yields the best results. No more overkill for me!

eljefe7070

Thats a bummer, but glad to hear that it wasnt the best option. I was considering building a box and putting it in the trunk well. Well....scratch that idea. I was thinking of cutting out the stock sub bracket and mounting the JL underneath the rear deck. Not sure if I should even worry about building a box under there.

C32owner

Eljefe, you certainly could just go a simpler route of building a custom box for your trunk, however just get the correct dimensions and specs for our sedans, as have tried some boxes, and while they are banging away hard in the trunk, there is NO sound or Air waves that come through into the cabin at all! The box makes all the difference I have seen.

I took out stock sub left that whole open and I am very happy with the sound and bass, and nice to feel the air waves move the hairs on my arm

However the negative is of course you loose some trunk space and the added weight of a box... Of course weight in whats more important for you.

eljefe7070

That's why I was thinking about having it mounted in the rear deck from the bottom and having it fire up into the cabin. My amateur thought was that the sub would use the open space in the trunk for air displacement. Now my fear is that the trunk would rattle more than desired.

Here are the SPECS for my sub...it seems like that my sub isn't suited for free air setup.

Size 10 -inch
Impedance 4 ohms
Cone Material Polypropylene
Surround Material Foam
Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.65
Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) 1.125
Port diameter (inches) N/A
Port length (inches) N/A
Free-Air No
Dual Voice Coil No
Sensitivity 84.07 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 25 - 250 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 100-300
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 600
Top Mount Depth (inches) 4 15/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) N/A
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 9 1/16
Vas (liters) 31.01
Fs (Hz) 32.09
Qts 0.604
Xmax (millimeters) 11.4
Parts Warranty 1 Year
Labor Warranty 1 Year

pullejo

Old thread I know... but does anyone have the directions on how to remove the factory sub unit?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

- Remove rear seat cushion,
- remove rear seat backrests,
- remove rear head restraints,
- remove paneling from C-pillars,
- remove rear shelf

and you should have access to the speaker.

2000UZJ

I have tried several times and gave up with the rear headrests

TheTherapist

The rear headrests are easy once you've worked them out - just difficult to explain. Basically you have to keep pressure on the headrest (by pushing with your head) after the first clip is released while releasing the second clip otherwise the first clip will lock in place again. Trust me, once you've done it you won't ever forget again - it took me a couple of days!

Michael Ciesla

Hey man my rear speakers are cracked and I bought new news the exact make and model and I reinforced it with double coils to make it last longer off a specialist that works with sub woofers

Could you please send me the instructions on how to replace them for me??? I have a friend that works on car audio... He just doesn't know where to start by taking the thing apart.... Benz always have to make things so damn complicated all the time..

If you could send those instructions it would seriously help me out big time!!!
Please and thanks!
Email is papa_c370@hotmail.com