..........now that a few folks are running in the low to mid 11's, what do you think is a recipe to get into the 10's without nitrous? I post this on this forum because the E55 folks seem to modify their cars more often, but the question is not limited to E55. I'm very interested in this.

Ted

 

I say the only way is the Brabus method.....yanking the motor and start-a-borin.

Just no way in my opinion without major engine modding.

 

.........I believe some of the V12 biturbo guys have run 11.2. I know this is not the same as as running in the 10's but it gets one thinking.

........Brabus is definitely not obligated to publish 1/4 mile times, but does anyone know if there are any published 1/4 mile time of the Brabus CLS EV12? Another interesting idea is the MKB 4 matic V12 biturbo.

Ted

 

The Kleemann SLK55 K8 would be interesting. Or find a way to lose 300kg on a stage 2/3 E55 and it might be possible. A good start would be a CF bonnet + boot, losing the passenger seat and replacing the drivers seat with a racing one for about 100kg weight loss. Then change battery and remove spare tyre for another 40kg. Fabricate a full titanium exhaust system, change rear wheels to 17" ultra lightweight ones and use Evosport rotors for another 50kg. After that it would get more complicated, hardcore stuff like getting lightweight glass for the windows/windscreens and removing the sound deadening material ... etc. But with the kind of weight our AMGs are having, its never going to be easy. You're looking at either really big power or going on a severe diet.

 

If you take a car like Derrick's (DJ) at 11.52 in the 1/4...

- looser converter (even just 1000 rpm would be a huge difference)
- steeper rear gears
- taller, stickier rear tires

You'd be running 11.05-11.15s in the 1/4. I don't think any of those things would compromise the daily drivability of the car like severe weight savings, etc.

Slap the car on a dyno and tune it on 100-103 unleaded and you'd have a 10 second car.

 

I hope so but I just don't think tires, gears, and a looser converter is going to net over one half of a second.

 

Derrick ran a 1.7 short on his 11.52 pass.

So just tires/converter should net a 1.5 on a good track. That's .20 in the first 60', which generally equates to .30 at the big end of the track. So theoretically speaking, that COULD be a 11.22 with just those 2 mods. Add in gears and I think my estimates are pretty close.

That said, I don't think anyone knows these 3 things...

- will the tranny survive that abuse?
- will the ECU freak out with a looser converter? will it think the tranny is slipping?
- will the rear end and/or 1/2 shafts survive?

How much more boost will our stock blowers produce?

 

I've seen a 3600 stall converter + ET Drags net better than a half-second improvement over bone-stock times, but we're talking a GM 4L60E tranny on an LS1 F-Body, not an MB AMG 5-speed. Does anyone make a high stall converter for the AMG 5sp?

 

I don't think anyone makes one, but you should be able to have a stock converter worked by the big boys (PI, etc) to bring the stall speed up.

 

I'd love to see a 4200lb car run a 1.5 60' time.

 

My friend's 96 TA, which is only 250lbs lighter, runs 1.3s. 9.5s in the 1/4.



You can see it on next season's first episode of Pink's.

My point being that it can be done. It's just that the durability of the MB drivetrain that would be the issue I've seen a handful of 1.64-1.68 60' times at our track days out of E55s, so it's not like we're talking about going from 2.00s.

 

<<Slap the car on a dyno and tune it on 100-103 unleaded and you'd have a 10 second car.


Wayne,

Where around MD/NOVA can you get 100-103 unleaded. I can only find 114/116 leaded which obviously won't work.

Also does ANY one on this board other than the dude that ran high 11s in a W210 have any experience on going with 282 or 307 gears? I wonder how much that would help using of course drag radials...perhaps launch from 2nd gear and hope you make up time with one less shift?

 

There are 2 stations in Damascus that sell it at the pump. Main Street is one (they have a shop/dyno there, too) and the other one is only a couple 100 ft away. Main Street sells VP and the other place has a pump for CAM2.

And with steeper gears, you'd negate the gains by launching in a higher gear. Launch in first on a sticky tire and hang on

 

Issac,

Since you are in VA try Winning Edge Performance in Manassas. I have purchased Sunoco GT 100 Race Fuel from him several times.

Call 703.369.3499 and ask for Mike (he is the owner). Tell him I referred you.

9108 Euclid Ave
Manassas, VA 20111
www.winningedgeperformance.net

 

Spero -- thx so much. I am going to go and fill up and get bring a few extra 5 gal cans. Is it pump it yourself or is it all in drums.

Btw, was looking at the Supraforums and a stall converter would be the ticket...stock twin turbo supras putting down 400-500rwhp at 3600lbs trapping 117-119 are running 10.9-11.3s with a 3800 stall. Someone has to make one for us. Your 1.6x short times will be 1.4x


http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=282839

Auto


1. 10.979@121.39 Amar - BL tranny, 3,800 PI stall, 75 shot, and BPU+.

2. 11.067@117.68 HotSoup

3. 11.12@121.98 1.555 60ft Erik Doer Sport Compact Pro Oct 2004 at Cecil County Dragway in MD
built Boost Logic auto 3900 stall
bpu ++ 18 inch drag radials
stock twins,stock fuel system, motor, and intake manifold. NO NOS

 

He only has pumps for the leaded stuff since the demand is higher in the racing world. He has big drums that he will fill your car up with.

Make sure you call him before going since he has shorten hours during the winter.

 

Derrick, I think that you are underestimating just how much of a difference it made for your car in the 10sec run when you changed wheels and tires. Obviously the drag tires made a HUGE difference, but the lighter weight, smaller wheels made a big difference too. My SL runs the 1/4 at 11.43@122. We have done some calculations/simulations and have found that with a 17" custom wheel and MT E/T drag radial, my car should run somewhere in the 10.88 - 11.05 range. A big part of this has to do with trading the 30lb stock wheel and BFG drag radial for the 9lb custom wheel and tire, therefore, reducing rotating mass (a notorious power eater). The smaller diameter wheel will also help with turn the wheel more revolutions with the same power.

 

No, I just happen to know my own times. My best 60' on OEM rims with BF DR's was 1.74. My best 60' with the CCW's and MT SR's was 1.698. So if just wheels and tires will put you in the 10's, when you doing it? I'm tired of waiting on you V-12 TT boys to sack up and take the title.

 

I can't say for sure it will, I'm just going by what my tuner's computer says. I got the 11.43 with a 60' of 1.795. I'm having them measure for the wheels this week. We're still not sure if the calipers will clear. I will post when I find out more. Our Elevation, relative humidity, temp and barometer kill us here in AZ.

Even though you only got a 60' of .05 faster, I think the lighter, smaller wheels helped you on your ET and trap speed.

 

I ran DR's for the first time in my life last week on 17" rims (BBS RC - 20 pounds) and BF DR's(275/40/17) and I was getting in the 1.6 range all day with 1.64 being my best 0-60' time.

DR's ROCK