tommaey

But that is exactly my understanding. Sure they are two different things but in the end you are tricking it, not damaging it.
Anyway the ride is better, the car rolls less.

Does STAR diagnostics calibrate the ride after lowering it?? I actually don't know, somebody tell me

Rafal

Plain and simple: STAR diagnostic is not available in Australia, and from what I hear, not so accessible in America either, unless you do other expensive mods at the same time. At the risk of a $1000 air shock failing (BIG odds) and a MBenz dealer, who only lives to please you and to milk the "factory warranty cow", knocking your claim back (even BIGGER ODDS) I will "self insure" and take the risk by keeping my washers, my out of spec PS2 275/35/18 (not XL 265 Contis), and any other potentially warranty-voiding mods I want. All you well meaning guys, with huge out of factory specs mods from Kleemann, Renntech, Evo, Brabus etc, riding on 20" wheels and who knows what else, are suddenly getting all politically correct, to justify your decision to spend a tiny bit more money than us. Good for you

benzmodz

Since this is your primary assumption I would like to draw your attention to the fact that Star Diagnostic is at all dealers in Australia and is sold at MBUSA for $26,000 (or something like it) with a 3 month waiting list.

I dont know why people insist on saying these things about the Mercedes service industry. This information was never secret.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/doclist.jsp

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=4431

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=2843


Is there any other information I could provide for you to disregard ?

OzE55

I can't make the links work to read that info.

I think Rafal means that lowering via Stardiagnostics is not available here. ie. the method used by MbenzNL cannot be accessed.
Now, if someone knows someone in Brisbane (from my perspective) who does this reliably, let me know.
I have heard that the very expensive lowering modules are available, they, almost certainly, would void any waranty and cannot be easily removed like the washers.

Whether I change the angle of the sensor arms with washers or you do it electronically, the mechanical effect is the same - the car sits lower. The 'effect' on the airmatic will be mechanically the same. So if 'failure' of the air suspension is going to occur it will do so with either method. I would be happy to hear from those who have had a failure with either method. Remembering that a one off event can happen to anyone at anytime - establishing a pattern of failure would be needed to show inferiority of either or both methods.

Rafal

Wow, that is a really bright piece of advice you have given me.
I will now rush out and spend $26,000 to buy the machine, figure out how to use it and then lower my car "within MB specs" all by myself...
I suggest you go to your local dealer and give them the same advice and see how quickly they jump to lower your E55 while you wait... damn, I just realised, you don't have an E55 with airmatic DC, so really, you are just trolling!

benzmodz

Since you are a local ..... I need to point out that several dealers in our town offer the service at little or no cost but do not know how to EXCEED the limits and recalibrate. This thing you are trying to prove ....

- no one has Star Diagnose
- no one knows how to use it
- no one will do it for you

Seems to fall apart in the real life. Supposing that I dont have Airmatic and you dont have a Star Diagnose that means we are both trolling.

benzmodz

a) the links are slow. Just wait.

b) Plenty of dealers offer it but ONLY to people with Airmatic. It is quite amazing but if you dont have airmatic for some reason they wont do it. It is true that Steve can make it go lower.

c) I was in Brisbane yesterday

d) Did anyone even bother to ask Steve if he knew someone in Sydney or Australia ..... I dont think so.

OzE55

At the expense of possibly turning this into a pub brawl - I did have a private conversation with one knowledgeable tech at my local dealer.
He too was into modding.
He knew there were ways of lowering the car but commented that MBZ wouldn't be part of it.

Please, if you have a contact in Brisbane who does this let me know.
Driving 12hrs to Sydney is not a viable option.

Rafal

OzE55, this thread went off the rails as soon as this fountain of knowledge spouted off about a subject he only knows from theory, never once having the personal experience of asking MB dealer to do the actual work on HIS E55. Check out BlackBear's original post and see who answered his question without any preaching on a soap box.
Stop encouaging him, or he will next tell you to put your car on a boat to California, to get it done "to spec" as it is cheaper than $26,000

benzmodz

For everyone else its seems doable but for you everyone

Why do you think that is ?

benzmodz

I will be back up in Brisbane in a couple of weeks to meet with the "BURNT" CLK55 to add an option. We should all get together and meet up since I already have the start of a beer club. Robert is quite the authority on world class mods at great prices you will be amazed at his knowledge base.

Rafal

I guess I just cannot afford to pay more than 80cents

FlyByNight

I couldn't agree with you more. Having lifted and lowered dozens of cars over the years through every method imaginable and at every cost, this is hands down the most intuitive and logical method to lower our cars. Just fool the computer instead of reprogramming the whole thing.

Seriously, if you were 8 feet tall, and you kept hitting your head on a door frame, which would you do? Go to a expensive therapist who would teach you how to recognize this problem and learn to slump over as you walk so you never are quite as high again (computer reprogramming) or would you slice a half inch off that rubber sole on your tennis shoes so you're merely 7'11.5" tall now? That's all the washers do... they move the sensor in such a way that it now reaches equilibrium at a slightly lower level. That's it. It is safe, uneventful, looks good... and your button that raises the vehicle still works... it actually makes it about the height of the stock ride, perfect for curbs, dips, etc. I use it all the time.

Pre-washer that raise button made the thing look like it was ready for some off-road action...

Now if reprogramming the height ALSO gave us the ability to adjust the ride height on the fly through the arrow buttons on our steering wheel, then I'd be impressed. But since that's never going to happen, it is a waste of money that acheives the same result.

just my 80 cents...



Loren

benzmodz

Maybe you should stop using Pilot-II and go back to Falkens.

benzmodz

So if I said it could be done would you spit coffee all over your screen laughing or would you send me a blank check with a purchase order ?

BlackBear

What dealers in LA will do the Star lowering?

I called three. One did not know what I was talking about, the second one knew exactly what I wanted but gave me a liability issue answer, the third is still checking to see if he can do it.

To all you guys in LA: Where did you go to have the Star lowering done?

Thanks,

Oliver

BlackBear

What does the voltage need to be set to for a 0.5" drop?

FlyByNight

I'd definitely go for reprogramming if I could adjust on the fly. But since we can't even play frickin' DVDs on our US spec commands, I'm guessing you're just trying to light the fire more.

For those of you tossing out the "don't be so cheap" do it right crap, listen up: REPROGRAMMING your system is more invasive than 4 little washers will ever be. In addition, it is completely reversible in a couple minutes. No, the nut isn't coming off.... that's why we use 4 or so washers... so we have space to PUT the nut ON when we're done. Otherwise some moron would tell you to use 10, and you in your brilliance would suddenly notice there's no chance in hell that nut is going on. We're not idiots. We know the difference between a nut actually being screwed on sufficiently or not. Add some light locktite as I did, and its now the safest nut in the car. Might I also help those out who are unfamiliar with the concept of a washer: We often use them in an attempt to KEEP nuts from coming undone. Good lord.

And its not about cost. I went full K2 with diff and spared no expense. Just shipping to Cory directly instead of letting a local dealer handle the install is an indication of how important the money aspect is for most of us washer ******: It's not.

What is relevant is what is logical. The programming method tells the car to keep adjusting to a different figure the sensor puts out. The washer method moves the sensor so it puts out a different figure and the car keeps adjusting until normal.

You guys can hash it out all you like, but in the end it is the same. As far as calibration, calibrate this: My car handles a lot better now. Our cars weren't slot cars to begin with, so if calibration is so important, how do you explain the washer theory making them handle better, with all of that out of calibration business going on? And, just for the sake of argument, driving your car up a slight HILL creates more calibration problems and physical adversity on your driving dynamics than any small lowering of your car via these washers. You do drive up inclines, right? I'll take my coffee uncalibrated with washers, thanks.

Lastly, there are no error codes unless you used a donut instead of 5mm of washers. By mechanically repositioning the sensors slightly, you're INSURING there are no error codes because the sensor is reporting LEVEL… that’s when it stops lowering the car, when it thinks it is now level, good, perfect, within spec, normal, wonderful, bien, bueno.

Its not sitting there reporting "washer detected. I'm level, but I detect something else has made me level. I ignore potholes and speed bumps, but I am washer aware. It must be those damn washers. So, I'm fine, but I'll report a code, because, well, I'm level". Hahaha. It simply doesn't work that way. To the computer, it is CORRECT.

God, you guys... I bet you naysayers have a terrible time figuring out how that floating level thingy in your toilet works and magically makes the water stop filling up. Here’s a tip: If you want more water per flush, bend the floating arm UP towards the ceiling just a tad. This will cause the float to require more water to bring it to a height that then causes the arm to turn off the valve… thus, more water. We're here to help.

The now infamous washer theory is the same thing.

Damn, glad I type 100wpm… do I get 5 post credits for this one?



Loren

OzE55

God, you guys... I bet you naysayers have a terrible time figuring out how that floating level thingy in your toilet works and magically makes the water stop filling up. Here’s a tip: If you want more water per flush, bend the floating arm UP towards the ceiling just a tad. This will cause the float to require more water to bring it to a height that then causes the arm to turn off the valve… thus, more water. We're here to help.



I wish I had thought of that analogy!
Thank-you for your input.

OzE55

I'd be interested in talking to him - whats his credentials?
Who does he work for?

dmzz

If you want to risk a flood in your house and do $10k worth of water damage then you go ahead and bend that floating arm. Me, I chose to do it the right way by getting the Kleeman water lever adusting module for $1k

FlyByNight

Yeah, well, I thought it was appropriate... because now we can flush all this **** down the toilet quicker.

But if anyone wants me to redesign the size of the actual float and make its diameter dimensionally smaller so that it lifts higher to get more water, fine, but it will cost a hell of lot more than merely bending that arm up ...

To each his own. Washers rule. Everyone that did the washers, edit your signature and add "cheap *** washer user".



Loren

FlyByNight

Impossible. As a toilet service advisor for American Standard, might I remind you that all toilets have the overflow tube installed for that very reason.

Go look for yourself.



Loren

L8Apex

Loren,

You're killing me! Very funny! Makes since to me. :p

Has anyone seen that dead horse?

jangy

LOL, Lauren. you are a hoot.

I'm still waiting to decide who is "right". In the mean time, has ANYONE gotten a dealer to either do it or give it the old OK?? If so, I'd pay and get it done. If there is any warranty issues, I'd pick the washer route since I can remove them. I can't afford to have it reprogrammed each time I go to the stealer. I can, however, explain why the error codes (if any) are there. I FLAT OUT DUNNO, so lick it!! MBUSA tells me that all the time, why can't I be ignorant, too?
Where is the proof that the dealer can use?