hi everyone.. i need some help please i got a 2003 E55 stage 3 kleemann which i supose have about 620bhp.. i have taken it for a dyno test test, i got a depressing 430bhp in the rear wheels only.. i think i got lots of loses.. one more thing when i hit the peddle a little, i can hear a whistle its like a turbo blow valve.. is that normal or could that be the problem.. please try to help me thanks alot..

 

Have you tried a search?
There are lots of possible things that could cause your problems and from the top of my head some that I remember reading about (or the major one) is temperature causing the supercharger to disengage.

Another issue that Marcus brought up was the water pump.

Search the forums for posts by Marcus, vrus, Grumpy and a slew of other members and I bet you'll find the answer you're looking for.

BTW - welcome to MBWorld.org, got any pictures of your ride?

 

is the whistle sound normal on all the e55 stage 3 kleemanns?

 

you got scammed prolly you have bunch of stickers kleemann everywhere and whoever sold you the car said this ride is 620 hp, but in reality its a stock E55! Congrats! check if you can locate shiny headers at least.

 

Geez, that blows. You either got scammed and got a really strong stocker, or your Kleemann has problems. Faulty intercooler pump sounds like the culprit, according to what others have similarly experienced.

 

430 is exactly what stock 55 pulls isnt it guys?

 

Why do you think he got scammed ???

 

GUYS my E55 is not a stocker.. i am 100% sure that its a stage 3 kleemann. anybody with a E55 K3 has a funny blow valve kind a sound when u launch it. cause i think i have a leak.

 

No blow valve sound that I am aware off...

Take to who ever did all installations...

 

I'd take it back to the original installer .... with the dyno sheets in hand.

Every E55, SL55, etc that I have been in has a "squeak" when you first get into the gas hard.. alot like a belt slipping on the supercharger pulley ( Type sound )

Steve

 

2 things immediately come to mind. Water pump and heat soak.
1-Water pump problems are almost commonplace on the 55's. When it acts up, Kompressor shuts right down to protect.
2-Heatsoak. K3 makes monster heat and when gets over a certain temp, ECU is gonna shut that blower down.

Welcome to modding...now if you go to the stealer, you will be treated like a criminal. Sometimes they can be cool though.....sometimes just big fat jerks. Usually they can spot it pretty fast. I would play dumb..."Golly, the man who sold me the car said he had some engine upgrades...but I didn't understand what he meant. "

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

Like everyone else said, I would first check out the intercooler pump and make sure that it is working.

Second thing is, if you are hearing a whistling sound like air escaping, then get a friend to sit in the car and rev the engine. Check all the hoses from the air boxes to the throttle body and also check the connection from the intake manifolds down to the supercharger's intercooler output. There are 2 silicon hose connectors that connect the cast iron intake manifolds to the intercooler output. Make sure those are on tight and that there is no tears in them.

If you have an air leak you are losing boost and that would account for the drop in power. For comparison, my car did 411rwhp stock and 442rwhp with just headers on the car (no ECU and no pullies).

 

That sound is not supposed to be there. You properbly blow a gasket, or a hose is cracked, leaking pressurised air into the free.

 

I have a Kleemann stage 2 and the only funy noise I hear is the infamous supercharger chirp (which I kind of like). Something is definitely wrong with your setup. My K2 is putting down 485 rwhp and 549 rwtq.

 

What kind of dyno were your pulls done on and are they corrected figures? Different dynos give different results. Kleemann bases the hp off a Dynojet and corrected figures. A Mustang dyno shows lower than Dynojet and Dynamics shows even lower than a Mustang.

On a Dynojet my K2 is showing 430 rwhp corrected, and I'm still trying to find my missing hp.

 

Mine was on a Dynojet dyno.

 

what do u mean by corrected? and what do u mean by a mustang dyno.... in the dyno sheet i can see the fuel/air ratio, at 4000rpm it starts to go down, at 5500 it goes less than 10.. its very rich. do i have to reprogram my ecu?

 

Uncorrected means the figure you get from the Dyno is based on the Temperature, Bar. Pressure and Humidity that day. This can cause the pull to read high or low depending on location (altitude) and the day’s conditions. When you use a corrected number it has been adjusted to a base line standard Temp, Bar. Pressure and Humidity. I don't know the values of them but they are standard for all Dynos. Your Dyno sheet usually says uncorrected if it is. Check with the place that did it.

Mustang is one of the brands/makers of a Dynamometer. There are a bunch of different manufacturers of Dynos.

If you can, post your Dyno sheet. I'm not the guy to evaluate it, but someone like vrus is more qualified. Maybe he can comment.

 

I have the same set up as you do,and i make 489.7 rwhp and 640 ft lb tq at the rear wheel.
The car is a beast.........just wish i had more hp,but i am working on it.
Give Corey at Kleemann a call,he will burn you a new chip,and help you in any way he can.He is a wizard on the E55.
You need to look also at you s/c belt to see if its slipping.......that could be the power robbing culprit..........b/c if the belt is slipping the car will rchen its self ,which will result in a lost of top end hp.

 

A whistle sound is usually indicative of a vacuum leak and, like Victor already mentioned, you could be bleeding off boost. If it sounds more like a squeal than a whistle, then the belt could be slipping on the S/C, which would also result in less boost. Do you know what the IAT was during the dyno pull? It wasn't high enough to disengage the S/C, but if it was getting close, it would result in reduced power. This would point to the IC pump. What has your engine temperature been lately? Higher than normal? Is so, then it could be your water pump. It might be a good idea to have your dealer look for codes with Star Diagnostics.