Need More Power
Last edited by Blue Arrow; May 5, 2006 at 10:18 AM. Reason: error
You just pull the ECU and send it to Kleemann or Renntech and they send it back the next day. Sending it out of the country will most likely delay it a few days as the darn thing looks just like a bomb and will surely be inspected to death. Be warned....modding these things is just a crime as far as cost. ECU simple software transfer will put you back a few grand. You could go speedtuningusa.com if you wanna experiment. His ECU mod is only bout 300$ and you will get some gains off it. If you do this, you have to make sure to let the guy know whether you are doing pulleys or not as he will adjust the fuel mix accordingly.
Anyway, do that and then pop in your filters and you will really feel a difference.
Other than that, you gotta start moddin at the garage. Look at all the import shops around the area and see if you can find a guy who USED to work at a Benz shop. They would be about the only ones I would trust to mess with my crank (errrr ehhhh yeah) for the pulleys.




For starters, being at sea level, you will have access to 97RON use that if you can - or Shell Optimax ... thats max RON you can get in SA I think.
Then there is the usual progression, air filters, "branches" (aka headers here), race cats. Remap and de-limit will also aid matters. Rob Green Motor sport (unf based in Sandton JHB), were top of their game 5 yrs ago - and from what I heard probably still are. http://www.rgmotorsport.co.za. They would be able to help you remap for sure .... they got quite a bit of experience with S/C & turbo cars.
I would look into a upgraded cooling system as S/C shut down on continued WOT blasts is a common headache. It will be interesting to know if the SA version of the E55 has had a bigger radiator fitted to overcome some of the extreme temps you can get down there ... but keep and eye out for a sudden drop in power after a few WOT blasts on a hot day. If this does NOT happen I think we would all like to see if they modded the car for the climate.
Its a real beast enjoy it on those great roads...
Rgds Steve.
Last edited by stevebez; May 5, 2006 at 12:17 PM.
From what i learnt from reading this forum this is what i plan to do. Rob will do a pulley upgrade, ecu remap and front section of the exhaust to do away with the cats as well as remove top speed limit. I am not sure on the cooling system but can do mesurements if you could give me specs. My idea though is to install an aquamist system to work with the kick down button under the accelerator, this will enable Rob to go more aggresive on the timing as well as cool the charge temps at wot. He has agreed to come down to Durban to tune the car on the rollers as well as on the road. I've tried but cannot get k&n filters locally for this car, please suggest a website.
Please advise if your'll think the above is possible.




If you dont want to go that far look into the Johnson Marine pump replacement for the bosch I/C pump ... there is also this alternative which may be better suited to the fluid temps...
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...Code=ElectPump
I think I can source K&N here in UK for you - but Green filters seem to be gaining in popularity on the forum, not oil soakedl like the K&N's...
http://www.greenfilters.com/ Product code: GN-P950350.
Also - read up on the throttle body mod ... we have~73mm T/B stock and there were some early SL55's that had 80mm, app this is good for arnd 30rwhp... vrus (
) is investigating if the SL TB will work on our E's.... If it does not work out consider boring T/B out a bit for mbe 15rwhp. Actually I know Rob built some custom T/B's for his M3 S/C conversion ... mbe he could have a look at this ?Best of luck ... and enjoy the torque monster and keep us in the loop!
Rgds Steve
Last edited by stevebez; May 8, 2006 at 05:28 AM.
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thanks for the reply, had the car on the dyno again today, managed to source k&n filters. picked up about 10whp. my originals were really dirty. my next mod has to be the tb. waiting for vrus's results. tried to locate 1 from mb, there reply-no stock-ex germany only. noticed the car comes up to 100deg c quite easily on the dyno at which point the war cuts back. i need to address this issue as well. What is the snorkle upgrade that has bee mentioned here on thi forum? after the tb all my cats come of and then the pulley with piggyback unichip mapping of the ecu.
i knew i was buying a special car, knowing what an e55 is, after 2 months now i still can't get over it, hard to imagine anything better than this.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




http://www.palmersport.com/
... they got some quick proper prepared race stuff there and when I got back in the E55 to go home it still felt VERY quick. I swear I smiled all the way home....
Snorkel mod - comes in two variants. I have not done it. It may be worth a few HP, but jury is still out. Basically the one pipe feeding the one airfilter box ahs a slightly restricted shape, so guys replace this with an unrestricted pipe - think if you search the fourm you will find the part #.
The other snorkel mod is to heat wrap everything in front of the air boxes - and some even wrap their air boxes. This might delay heat soak, but to me unless you go for proper aluminum/asbestos shielding and add more ventilation it is just delaying the inevitable. So on balance replacing the feeder pipe is perhaps best mod of the two.
I got 3 niggling slight rattles / drone vibration noises I need to sort out - think they came about when they installed the tracker device. Other than that car is 100%. Also looking at Evosport rotors now as I am planning a trip with a buddy to Nurburgring in July for a blast.
Having car fully derestricted tomorrow and adding a more agressive mapping for 98 RON.... will see how it goes.
Rgds Steve.
My opinion is that if you are going to do the ECU & pullies, do the HEADERS and cooling upgrades also. I don't know what your budget is, but if you dont want to do all 4 at the same time, then do the headers, primary cat deletes and cooling upgrades first. Then do the ECU and pullies second. The car generates so much heat that adding more boost up front just makes it worse.
The norm on this board seems to be ECU & Pullies as a starting point, but, I started the opposite way and left the programming and boost upgrade until last.
Try to leave the ECU programming until LAST because otherwise you'll most likely have to get the mapping updated in the ECU as you change things. Most people will charge for these updates and it can become rather expensive as you move along the "mod ladder".
That's my $0.02 anyways...
My opinion is that if you are going to do the ECU & pullies, do the HEADERS and cooling upgrades also. I don't know what your budget is, but if you dont want to do all 4 at the same time, then do the headers, primary cat deletes and cooling upgrades first. Then do the ECU and pullies second. The car generates so much heat that adding more boost up front just makes it worse.
Hi vrus, thanks for that advice. How go about doing the cooling mod, i know i need it. i saw horsepwer fall quite sharp on the third pull on the dyno. i've seen on some post here talk about evosports cooling mods as a kit. i am in south africa so access to these are quite difficult. excactly what do i need to do as i will try to import certain parts and fabricate others. In s.a. there are quite a few e55's but not any that i know of have done mods to them, probably scared of warranty issues or just satisfied with the car as is.
I plan to remave all the cats, i believe there are 4. we do not have emision controls here. i do want to do the headers at the same time.
What header do you suggest as the most bang for buck?
Thanks again.




I am looking at getting the Evosport cooling pack and some 2 piece brake discs as well. Just working out the shipping etc to see if it is feasible.
There is also a Brembo Gran Tourismo upgrade kit for the E55, maybe overkill but decent package. I have also queried some Uk companies if they supply 2 piece floating rotors, and when I have all the quotes and info I'll decide on which way to go. So far Evosport is the best combination. Let me know if you are interested in a cooling kit, mbe we can get a bit of a deal if we order 2?
Rgds Steve.
I am interested in the cooling kit, get a price. Will they price the shipping, if so mine will be to Durban, S.A. Does the cooling kit work on the engine and the intercooler temp?




http://www.evosport.com/product/prod...ER.M5K.PPC.211
This is the full cooling package ... not cheap though, and thats excl. shipping.
Apparently the stock car does not split the I/C and engine coolant, its one circuit. Everyone/anyone - please correct me if I am wrong.
The package splits the circuit into a seperate line the I/C and adds an additional heat exchanger. They claim quite significant drop in IAT's... which is what we are after. Evosport are apparently working on a SLR type I/C package for the E55 - but still in development - and it wont be cheap.
The bigger pump is a Johnson marine pump (not sure about its reliability in pumping very hot water though - but most seem happy with the exception that it is a bit noisy) ... the stock one has a habit of failing pertty often - not sure if they have changed the stock pump on the late models.
Rgds Steve.
Last edited by stevebez; May 9, 2006 at 05:51 AM.




There is one school of thought that says the bigger pump will give 80% of the efficiency gains of the full system - so on balance maybe a better bet. Generally, if you go for a bigger pulley the full cooling system should be better. I still like the stewart pump though mentioned above. If anything I think I go with the pump first. So far I have not had cooling issues - but have only really driven my car in winter temps here in UK. Splitting the circuit will definately help further as the I/C will have much better cooling capability, as it will not be starting its "cooling" at engine coolant temps.
stupid design... Headers (aka branches), will also help the heat issue... kleeman units are real pretty - and Evosports are ceramic coated.
Rgds Steve.
Last edited by stevebez; May 9, 2006 at 08:28 AM.
Do you know prices on branches from these 2 suppliers? From past experience i will probably go with the ceramic coated option.
Should i do this system myself i will add a header tank to the charge cooler with an opening big enough to fill ice into it for those track/drag days. I seen this system work well on a 10.1 sec fwd opel drag car. This will easily improve charge temps over almost any other mod, the tank size(volume) will determine how long the improved effect lasts for. A tank large enough for a 12 second run might only have water go through it 1 or 2 times depending on the velocity of water.




http://www.evosport.com/product/prod...VO.EXH.M11.H03
Look really well made but for $3k - they should be. I think they are direct replacement for the current headers - checking that now.
Rgds Steve.
Those look amazing, I'll probably go for those when i am ready. I want to attend to the cooling first to maintain consistent power delivery before i touch anything else. As i mentioned, what i saw on the dyno was shocking, up to a 70hp loss as the temps went up. To me this could account for poor performance figures by some magazines as well as the fall of hp against an m5
on top as some guys read about. Here we run longer distances-up to 1.5km, and my temp around the 800m mark is already too high, its not so significant in the 1/4mile.




BTW the Evosport header is a straight swap out of the stock header ... app no mods required to stock exhaust.
Last edited by stevebez; May 10, 2006 at 12:30 PM.



