jangy

Anyone have any info on camber platesfor our rides? i noticed that the arms have a bolted on triangle that could easily be replaced by a different piece and could move the top of the front wheels around. Anyone changed them out? Or are there other aftermarket ones out there? Lastly, are the ones out there to repair wrecks or engineered for performance?

rbc55

check renntech,i believe they may offer one but not sure though.

jangy

Awesome, thanks.

CynCarvin32

RENNtech has a toe link for the rear to eliminate rear suspension deflection under load. Cars with 550-650+ hp tend to create more power than the suspension can control so they replace the rear toe link to keep rear toe constant even under serious load.

They do not have any parts to date for the front camber on the W211. You can not have camber plates on this car because it is not a Mac Strut car. The multi-link fornt suspension can only be adjusted for camber with new links or camber bushings. Trouble is none exist to date

The factory crash bolts are designed to simply adjust camber one way or the other. It can add or remove camber on a car that is slightly out of wack. I have them in my car and it give you about 1 more degree of negative camber and that little change really does help front end grip. I do this to every MB I have and it really works on the W211. On a W203 it creates very little camber but a W211 can have almost 2.5 degrees of negative camber which is really not to shabby.

Good luck.

Get a RENNtech new digitial lowering module. I am getting specs very soon and should likely have one on my car soon. I got a briefing about its new features and its light years ahead of the current analog modules used by kleemann and brabus. The kit sounds totally amazing and costs less that the competition. You can set the ride height to your liking, turn the module off when you dont want to use it (ie dealership visit), quickly remove it all together for real service work etc. It also prevents you from having the car to low at high speed by reverting to stock over a set speed. You really dont want a car lowered when you are going 100+ because at that speed reduced suspension travel is a true hazard.

jangy

Dude, your car is already awesome with just STAR. Is this module that good? If so, I'll switch back to the module route, too.

The piece I was curious about is the one on the top arm above the tire. It has two bolts. One that hooks to each arm coming up, but now I see that they don't affect wheel angle.

jangy

Can you tell me details about these crash bolts? Part numbers, etc? I couldn't find them on the microfische at Benzo.

I am still looking for a mod to tuck the top part in a bit.

Rafal

When you get your car lowered, your wheel will tuck in more than you expect. Why make it worse by tucking it in even further?
These cars get too much negative camber, not too little.
Most guys try to "untuck" the front by fitting camber bolts, to improve street handling and inside tire wear.
What is your agenda?

jangy

Hey rafal...the agenda is front end response. I agree that the camber tucks more and more as the car is lowered, but it isn't enough for me!!

First, I will not be lowering too much, as I want it for handling, nad not the dropped look. I will be honest, the way i drive, my fronts wear on the OUTSIDE for now. This was the case on the '05E55, anyway. i replaced those tires at 9k miles and they were definitely worn on the outside. That is because i throw the car a lot, not because I think it has positive camber.


At any rate, I have always added negative camber to my cars until i could get the understeer tuned out. It may be an old wives tale, but the saying always went that manufacturers actually design understeer into cars to make them safer, and it makes sense. A car with understeer is just an easier drive than one with oversteer. With understeer, you simply slow down or plow into a wall. With oversteer, there is no telling what happens when the butt comes out (ala Pcars). But, if it is controlled, WOW!!

Does that make any sense?

CynCarvin32

Rafal,

From my track running time the car does not have enough camber by any means. The tire should not have sidewall wear and it should have even heat distribution across the tires surface. The E55 may have some camber when lowered but it also could use some more. For true track use you need 3 degrees plus for such a heavy car.

I know that the W211 has a far more aggressive camber curve than say a W203 but you also dont want to take aways all the suspension travel to simply add camber.

With between 2 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber my tire wear is pretty even on the street because I thow the car around on freeway on-ramps and down my local roads to and from my house (late at light or early morning). But that driving is hardly track driving.

I personally just need to get my 265 tires on the front axle and I bet the car will drive fairly well. With 2.5 degrees of negative camber and a reduction in toe-in the car is a great deal more alive upon turn in and that way my goal sicne this car used to just want to plow straight at even modest speeds.

CynCarvin32

sorry Jangy I HAD to

jangy

Hey I can't deny it.....SINCE you were in the Car!!

lol, plus it was on your side, anyways so you had the best view (if your eyes were even open).