jangy

I admit I drive hard and expect a great deal from this car, BUT to alreasy have toasted rotors up front (even as much and hard as i use them) is a bit sad.

Today, the brake is hot warining came on. it said to continue driving, but to be EVEN more careful. LOL. Hey, i was at least pulled over waiting on the Pcar to catch up.

Dogshine

any problems with the 'gold calipers' issue?

03c4s

the magician "now u see ------then u see him later"
some cosmic stuff!!??
hard use, how do u think the rotor feels, next time I suggest u tell them they are going to be abused. "communication"
lol

sly55

Damn Jangy thats some nice work! toasting rotors in 4000miles

anyone know how the metallurgy of the OEM rotors compares to replacement rotors such as the evosport 2 piece rotors? As on other brands of car i have swapped OEM rotors out for supposedly "upgraded" rotors, in which i quickly destroyed! From what i know of benz stuff, OEM should be damn high quality. Is there even a chance that the upgrade rotors wont be as good?

Cylinder Head

iTrader: (1)

We had this discussion in another thread a while ago, the OEM rotors on 55's are POS cast units, you're much better off with EVOsport rotors and some well matched pads. Given, converting all of that speed+kinetic energy into stopping power is a tall order, but stock rotors are just not up to snuff.

jangy

Dude, I was "on" yesterday. I was also trying a new strategy, since the car pushes so hard with the OEM front tires. The strategy was to floor it and then SLAM on the brakes before the turn in so that i could drift out with the assumption that i would push (which it did). You saw yourself how well it handled, even with the skinny tires up front.

As for the OEM vs EVO rotors, I'm not so sure. I know you all had the discussion, but i don't know that anyone has shown it. I'd sure hate to pay $2000 for a set of EVOs (not that I will) and have them toasted in a couple laps. Perhaps some that track their cars can confirm. Agreed the OEM ones are heat soak monsters.

No discoloration yet. Just a slight to moderate vibration on braking. It'll be going into MB for a look. Highland Valley road (which is where the light hit) is pretty tight at the end and I was using the brakes to load the front so that the rear would swing aroung those tight turns. I think I made it in close to record speed, but the warning came on when I was pulled over waiting for the P to catch up.

Dogshine

Well, thats good to know. I wonder how hard you really have to beat on the brakes to make the calipers turn gold..... or if it is a function of repeated high heat cycles....

Cylinder Head

iTrader: (1)

Jangy, have you tried slipping a little "engine braking" into your stopping strategy? Downshifting and allowing high revs to slow your car is one of the best ways to "save" your brakes. Given its much easier to do in my car than in yours, with 7 gears and a rev happy engine I barely have to touch my brakes to get it to stop, but its a strategy I've been forced to employ due to the dreaded "black powder of death" that spews forth from beemer brakes.

jangy

It is a repeat thing. I have only put 3 cycles on these rotors total. It will come for sure.

jangy

I have considered it and even play with it, but I am simply fastest when I let the computer handle the revs. The road we go on is just switchbacks with about a 5000 foot drop or rise. Things happen VERY fast. I go from full out floored (and we all know how the beast pulls) to slam on brakes to turn-in and floor again. It is really a brute force style of driving, but being smooth and precise just gets me nowhere in te beast. I basically try to make the course as straight as possible, so i make the corners shorter.

I am considering pulling the (-) shift button and holding it as I slam on brakes to see how low a gear it drops to, but being a 5 speed, i worry about how harsh the shift will be. If it works, then I could just hold the (+) button on the exit and let it go back up. I simply do not want to worry about what gear I am in. I'd prefer extremes and the holding on the button does that.

DFW01E55

Jangy, try spraying water on your rotors at night, then wait as long as you can before taking the car out and giving it 1 (or 2) hard brake applications.

What happens to some cars is tat the composite material from the brakes get laid down in minute particles on the rotor during heavy use.

These deposits give you the shuddering feeling when braking after a track day. It will definitely convince you that your rotors are warped.

By watering them and letting it sit overnight, the water seeps into and undetr the brake deposits and gets between the rotor and the deposits.

In the morning, when you mash the cold brakes, the deposits are scraped away because they aren't as bonded to the rotor.

It has worked perfectly for me.

jangy

WOAH!! I did notice all the holes were loaded with powder and cleaned a few just out of anality. You think this could possible be it? Well, the car has been sitting, so the brakes are nice and cool so i have no issue with a nice water bath. I have an appointment on Thursday. Not a big fan of turning rotors, and I have not identified aftermarket ones that I like, so we'll see what i do. Assuming they say they are warped, I may have to suck it up and pay for a new set with pads. GRRRRRR!