ASP Pulley and A/F dyno chart
11-18-2006, 06:03 PM
#26
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I'm not too worry about the dip. This only mean when I need to, adding race fuel will give me a little bit more power and safety. Secondly, I'm not sure if low fuel cause any of this issue. For other cars like Chevrolet, low fuel will effect performance and the timing table.
This mean I will be trying some 100 Octane for fun.
This mean I will be trying some 100 Octane for fun.
How many pulls did you make?
When my Z06 was stock and I strapped it on the dyno for the first time, the first 2 pulls had a dip... first time it was around 3500, then around 5500 (it was knock events) and then it was clear on the 3 and subsequent pulls.
I wouldn't be concerned with a single event like you saw on your dyno. Get a couple more pulls with A/F just to make sure it was an anamoly. You MAY need a higher octane gas, or an additive like Torco, but further testing is required to determine if that's the case.
11-19-2006, 10:20 AM
#27
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CLS55 AMG
Thanks for the Post! I was wondering how the ASP with A/F ran.
Do you guys think that my 06 CLS55 need a IC Pump changed? Or has that been corrected since 03-04 E55's?
Thanks!
Do you guys think that my 06 CLS55 need a IC Pump changed? Or has that been corrected since 03-04 E55's?
Thanks!
11-19-2006, 10:02 PM
#29
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E55
How many pulls did you make?
When my Z06 was stock and I strapped it on the dyno for the first time, the first 2 pulls had a dip... first time it was around 3500, then around 5500 (it was knock events) and then it was clear on the 3 and subsequent pulls.
I wouldn't be concerned with a single event like you saw on your dyno. Get a couple more pulls with A/F just to make sure it was an anamoly. You MAY need a higher octane gas, or an additive like Torco, but further testing is required to determine if that's the case.
When my Z06 was stock and I strapped it on the dyno for the first time, the first 2 pulls had a dip... first time it was around 3500, then around 5500 (it was knock events) and then it was clear on the 3 and subsequent pulls.
I wouldn't be concerned with a single event like you saw on your dyno. Get a couple more pulls with A/F just to make sure it was an anamoly. You MAY need a higher octane gas, or an additive like Torco, but further testing is required to determine if that's the case.
You may be right. On my fourth run, the dip is not there. I discounted that run because the third was aborted half way and the fourth was started right when the gas pedal is lifted on the third run. However, the graph is clear that the dip is not there.
thanks
11-20-2006, 07:16 AM
#30
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ASP pulley goes on Saturday.
Well got the kit and being fitted to my '06 E55 and possibly my friends '04 SL55. He might do his later on.
I am getting no ECU tune done and will run it meekly for first 100 miles (?) ... trip from installer to home is around 35miles.
Is there any recommendation in terms of disconnecting battery to speed up ECU learning ? Fuel in car is 97 RON and I never run anything less than 97 ... and most often 98.
I am getting no ECU tune done and will run it meekly for first 100 miles (?) ... trip from installer to home is around 35miles.
Is there any recommendation in terms of disconnecting battery to speed up ECU learning ? Fuel in car is 97 RON and I never run anything less than 97 ... and most often 98.
11-20-2006, 01:06 PM
#31
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Now I am a little nervous ...
Saw the earlier thread about pulleys falling apart ... and now mbe this thing without an ECU tune is causing some knocking ...
Any chance of more Dyno's with A/F ?
Should I worry or is this BS?
Car only has 4k miles on it.
Saw the earlier thread about pulleys falling apart ... and now mbe this thing without an ECU tune is causing some knocking ...
Any chance of more Dyno's with A/F ?
Should I worry or is this BS?
Car only has 4k miles on it.
11-20-2006, 02:47 PM
#32
Later in the week I'm getting the ASP pulley done with a before and after dyno and will be sure to report AF ratios.
I will also do the ECU reset thing before each dyno session to try and normalize results.
Anything else that I should do?
Stevebez, why run it meekly?
I will also do the ECU reset thing before each dyno session to try and normalize results.
Anything else that I should do?
Stevebez, why run it meekly?
11-20-2006, 03:24 PM
#33
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Dunno mbe give ecu time to reset itself ... mbe its not as organic as I think but will adjust all things from the get go ... either way no harm in taking it a little slow to start. Lets say 3000 rpm max for a while then 4 k then 5 k etc etc...
11-20-2006, 07:05 PM
#35
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E55
Secondly, I believe to get full power out, we need to reduce or eliminate the belt slippage. At the moment, I'm fine with the power and not worrying about squeezing everything from this setup.
I'm not too worry about the knock. As stated, during the fourth pull, the dip is not there. Secondly, I had my retard setting changed to base value and I can easily retard the timing by changing to 93 Ron or 91 ROn. I'm not sure if stock cars in US comes in at base value as well; it may have came retarded for our 91 octane premium gas. Also the retard (if it is true retard) is at 3000rpm when the motor is not at full power and nor running at the limit yet. I'll be concern if it is at >5000rpm or if I heard something on the dyno. The car ran smooth and strong to 160mph.
1. drop the two screens on the bottom of the car.
2. remove the top radiator cover
3. remove fan shroud (tough getting it out and in)
4. Loosen water pump pulley bolts then remove belts
5. Remove crank pulley (need to lock crank pulley somehow) MBz has a special tool. (search for other techniques) Use two small prybars and slowly tap/edge the crank pulley out a little at a time from side to side.
6. Slide new crank back in and tigten bolt
7. Replace water pump pulley with the new one from ASP
8. put everything back together. (The new crank pulley is so big that getting to the tensioner to put the serpentine belt is funny.)
I did not do the battery reset since I heard that you need the dealer to do something when you pulled the battery(.?); maybe that is not true. I did do the "sneaky" ECU reset for the shift points though.
Good luck
Last edited by tigerlam92; 11-20-2006 at 07:11 PM.
11-21-2006, 01:09 AM
#36
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Well got the kit and being fitted to my '06 E55 and possibly my friends '04 SL55. He might do his later on.
I am getting no ECU tune done and will run it meekly for first 100 miles (?) ... trip from installer to home is around 35miles.
Is there any recommendation in terms of disconnecting battery to speed up ECU learning ? Fuel in car is 97 RON and I never run anything less than 97 ... and most often 98.
I am getting no ECU tune done and will run it meekly for first 100 miles (?) ... trip from installer to home is around 35miles.
Is there any recommendation in terms of disconnecting battery to speed up ECU learning ? Fuel in car is 97 RON and I never run anything less than 97 ... and most often 98.
a few days later.. you will stronger pulls..
do the Adaptive ECU reset after the install...
You might notice a harsh chirp, more noticeable than before.
11-21-2006, 01:12 AM
#37
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its hard to do it on your own.
You will need a lift or remove the fan.
Just take it to a local MB shop and tell them what you want them to do.
It should take no more than 3hrs at about $95 a hour. If they charge more, they are stealing from you.
Its only 2 pullies and 1 belt. The belt comes off in 3 secons. The pullies swap is the real work but not that hard.
You will need a lift or remove the fan.
Just take it to a local MB shop and tell them what you want them to do.
It should take no more than 3hrs at about $95 a hour. If they charge more, they are stealing from you.
Its only 2 pullies and 1 belt. The belt comes off in 3 secons. The pullies swap is the real work but not that hard.
11-22-2006, 05:34 PM
#38
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E55
Pulley went in this pm...and its definitely stronger 
- I was not really able to go WOT as the holiday traffic was all over the hiway and byways around here. Still there's more there than before (to understate things a little) I can easily see that even at 25-50% throttle....
I had a local shop do the work (charged less than 2 hours) and seems very straight forward. I was suprised at the water pulley size changes (much smaller) and the crank pulley size changes were all a little more than expected.
After thanksgiving I will find a good dyno (still no one givin any recommendations for Boston area?) and do the A/F measurement to ensure no problems. And I also hear (as top gun said) more chirp now.
Doing a dyno run will let me make sure there's no slippage in the belt which given the extra load is well worth checking.
so now I'm offically "mod'ed"
- I was not really able to go WOT as the holiday traffic was all over the hiway and byways around here. Still there's more there than before (to understate things a little) I can easily see that even at 25-50% throttle....I had a local shop do the work (charged less than 2 hours) and seems very straight forward. I was suprised at the water pulley size changes (much smaller) and the crank pulley size changes were all a little more than expected.
After thanksgiving I will find a good dyno (still no one givin any recommendations for Boston area?) and do the A/F measurement to ensure no problems. And I also hear (as top gun said) more chirp now.
Doing a dyno run will let me make sure there's no slippage in the belt which given the extra load is well worth checking.
so now I'm offically "mod'ed"
11-22-2006, 06:21 PM
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E55
Pulley went in this pm...and its definitely stronger - I was not really able to go WOT as the holiday traffic was all over the hiway and byways around here. Still there's more there than before (to understate things a little) I can easily see that even at 25-50% throttle....
I had a local shop do the work (charged less than 2 hours) and seems very straight forward. I was suprised at the water pulley size changes (much smaller) and the crank pulley size changes were all a little more than expected.
After thanksgiving I will find a good dyno (still no one givin any recommendations for Boston area?) and do the A/F measurement to ensure no problems. And I also hear (as top gun said) more chirp now.
Doing a dyno run will let me make sure there's no slippage in the belt which given the extra load is well worth checking.
so now I'm offically "mod'ed"
- I was not really able to go WOT as the holiday traffic was all over the hiway and byways around here. Still there's more there than before (to understate things a little) I can easily see that even at 25-50% throttle....I had a local shop do the work (charged less than 2 hours) and seems very straight forward. I was suprised at the water pulley size changes (much smaller) and the crank pulley size changes were all a little more than expected.
After thanksgiving I will find a good dyno (still no one givin any recommendations for Boston area?) and do the A/F measurement to ensure no problems. And I also hear (as top gun said) more chirp now.
Doing a dyno run will let me make sure there's no slippage in the belt which given the extra load is well worth checking.
so now I'm offically "mod'ed"
The crank pulley is huge compare to the stock.The part throttle response as you and Topgun32 stated is awesome. That's probably the best part since we are using that part of the power all the time.
Remember to drive safely though!
cheers
--Hugh
11-23-2006, 03:36 AM
#40
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With that smaller water pump pulley things should be kept cool no ?
Last edited by stevebez; 11-23-2006 at 03:40 AM.
11-23-2006, 12:12 PM
#41
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E55
Steve I think that the ASP drive co-centric pulley for the aux's is also smaller than stock.
So the ASP set appears to both increase boost (larger crank pulley diameter to drive the S/C) AND decreases aux loads (regular underdrive...smaller driving diameter on the second crank co-centric pulley) ...giving more power for "other purposes" and the smaller water pump pulley is mostly for clearance
Yes the pump turns a lot faster from the significant diameter change in the pulley it now has (part of the kit) but the drive to it is different too...still I would agree the water pump is tuning faster and so some extra cooling might be happning.
So the ASP set appears to both increase boost (larger crank pulley diameter to drive the S/C) AND decreases aux loads (regular underdrive...smaller driving diameter on the second crank co-centric pulley) ...giving more power for "other purposes"
and the smaller water pump pulley is mostly for clearanceYes the pump turns a lot faster from the significant diameter change in the pulley it now has (part of the kit) but the drive to it is different too...still I would agree the water pump is tuning faster and so some extra cooling might be happning.
Last edited by SS3E55; 11-23-2006 at 12:17 PM. Reason: minor adds...
