BenzoBoi

sweet numbers!!!

ChicagoX

After reviewing your Lambda numbers, I have a few comments:


* It appears that your car was strapped down to the roller, got it turning, then revved in neutral.

* The garage door was then opened, as the temp dropped.

* Out of the two short 4th gear pulls, your car seems to be almost a bit lean below 3000 RPM, then pig-rich above 4000. This could be due to the bypass valve, as the A/F ratio dosen't seem to be 'fluttering' as when a belt slips.

* There is no chart for your 3rd gear pull. If you have one, please post it.

.

blackbenzz

Nice numbers! Now does a horse make more power in Russia than the US? lol

E55 RUSS

If stock US E55 makes 469HP, Euro E55 makes 476 HP...

E55 RUSS

Hi...Thanks for your comments...

Yes garage door was opened cause we somked the tires in 1st pull and Fire Alarm went ON


So what should I do next...give some more fuel below 3000Rpms (how much more ???) and less after 4000 (how much less ???)


Also we didnt put any sensors into Header, the thing that measures A/F ratio was located in my mufflers


My ECU man, said this ECu would be perfect once we remove Secondary Cats but then I think if I am lean below 3k, I would be ven more lean...


Thanks


Victor, Vadim and all other experts where are you guys ...I need help...

ChicagoX

Nice. That makes more sense than the neutral-rev for the RPM spike.

If this was a tailpipe reading, then your A/F is not lean at all. Post-cat Lambda readings are about a full point higher than pre-cat.

You are, however, very rich up top.

Time for the 80mm TB kit !!!

E55 RUSS

I see...so which A/F ratios should I go for ???

I think when I remove Secondary Cats...before 3 Rpms should be perfect ??? but not sure about after 4000 and higher

ChicagoX

F/I motors seem to like around 12.2-12.5 A/F.

With a tailpipe sniffer, this will read out about 13-13.5.

DO NOT TUNE WITH TAILPIPE SNIFFER ONLY !!! Please use a pre-cat reading for accuracy.

Your car is dumping fuel for a reason. Have you looked at your IAT's under load? If cooling is marginal (especially on a dyno) you may be running into heat-soak from insufficient airflow.

More info is needed to determine if that is the issue at hand or not.

Vadim @ FD

E55RUSS:

For the mods that you have done, you are right there in power. Air/Fuel looks good. On the road car will actually have more load and will lean out to mid12s.

Talk to VRUS about further upgardes.

ChicagoX

Dyno Dynamics isn't a load-bearing dyno?

E55 RUSS

Vadim do I need to lean more after 4000 rpms ??? or more before 3k ???

My tail pipes became black faster now...going to remove cats today...

stevebez

The reason you are rich above 4k is coz ecu is trying to cool motor ... IATS' are too high - this could be coz the car is stationary on the dyno and not being cooled. Even if it is being cooled it may not be enough. Or it is being cooled enough but your I/C setup is insufficient to handle the bigger pulley. I doubt your I/C pump is faulty otherwise you would see a massive power drop as S/C would shut down.

Thats why I think dyno's are complete BS when you look at cars like ours that are senstitive to heat soak. Stationary in a room going full tilt ... hmmm ... did you have some decent fans blowing on the engine ?

Best way to determine if she is running good is qtr mile trap speed or even 1/2 mile run may be better. This gives you absolute power. Then take a good datalogger and review lambda output from this run, also look at IAT's over the run, then look at timing ...

- You should see A/F in the 12's just before gear change (i.e. at power peak).
- IATs that plateau at a reasonble level (40-50deg C over ambient) just before gear change - Lower will obviously be better.
- View timing and see if it being retarded anywhere in the rev range, and if so by how much. Ideally you should see no retarding (if you do it will be coz IAT's are too high and ecu is playing it safe - which is not a bad thing - but means you are sacrificing power coz of high IATs - there is allot of power on the table if you can get them to come in even a bit cooler).

Mbe those who know more than me can chime in here but this approach makes more sense to me...

Finnish C32

and again, Evo cooling-kit is solution to drop IAT

stevebez

Typically how much reduction can one expect?

vrus

Mike,

I've tried to tell you a few times now. You HAVE to upgrade the cooling and put an additional heat exchanger if you want to use the ASP pulley reliably. Its generating +3.5 to +4psi over stock. That's 1BAR of boost on a stock cooling system... It just generates too much heat for a car with stock cooling. Its fine for a person who does city driving and blasts around stoplight to stoplight every now and then, BUT, if you are going to be on the street and running highspeed races and pushing the car constantly, it will work for the first run and start pulling power on you after that.

Put a datalogger on the car (get an Autotap ASAP) and run the car with the datalogger so you can see what is happening.. I guarantee you the IATs are peaking above 160 and the ECU is pulling timing and/or dumping fuel. If you Datalog while you are on the dyno, I wouldnt be surprised if the ECU was even pulling power on you mid-way through the run because the car is stationary and the cooling is even worse.

Also, dont waste anymore of your time or the tuners time fine tuning the ECU.. Get the 80mm TB installed FIRST, then once you've had a chance to see what the impact is on your car, get the final fine-tuning done. Otherwise, once you put the 80mm on, you'll have to go through all this work again.

I've got a 175mm pulley sitting in a box in my garage and havent installed it yet until I upgrade my Evosport front mount to the bigger monster I am making..

If you keep pushing the car like this with the stock cooling, in the long term, you will either end up with blown head gasket, or worse. That's my $0.02 anyways...

vrus

I was seeing 5C - 10C over ambient in the cooler months, and 15C - 25C over ambient in the dead summer heat (33C outside).

I am very curious to see if there is any improvement when I switch to the bigger system.

E55 RUSS

that scary what you have said Victor....I dont want any problems with my beast...But most of the tuners like MKB, Kleemann makes same power and dont use any cooling...and I the IC pump I have is the latest one from 07 SL55...

PTE 160 IAT mod for which I ordered and paid for over 6-7 months ago has never arrived

The weather here doesnt get higher then 10c now and my temp dont go higher the stay btw 80-90c...at 90 my fan start working...

I think my ECU is fine NOW...Today I removed secondary cats, actually everthing inside of the cats was removed and same diameter steels pipe with hole was installed inside and also I installed K&Ns and I think I became a bit faster but not too sure, will need to Dyno agian and do some runs with M6...

WOT at 65-70mph and ESP starts flashing...and the sound is so fruity, I like it much better now, I actually have less resonanse now at low RPMS and my raspier noise at higher RPMS...you can actually feel that the car breathes much better now and thus also means I will have less temp in exhaust which is good...

I will make a sound clip tommorow...

Also We ara working in making the compressor pully smaller to add more boost but I scared NOW after the things I have been told...making smaller pully could let ME bring the boost up to 1.3 -1.35 like Evotech and MKB do...

Also looking at some CAMs DyblasDynamics or Shrick I think they are some like 264...

But what I think I need thr most now is LSD the ESP is flashing too much, I wanna try 285 tyres...

blackbenzz

E55 RUSS

Sorry..."ME NO Inglish"...

Also I wanna add...Vadim and Victor pls comment :

If stock boost is 0.9 (temp about 830) and with Headers it drops to 0.7 (temp 760) then with Kleemann pullies Kleemann goes up to 0.9 with Evosport Header which has all CATs in place to 1.0 and with ASP to 1.1 but I have all CAT out, means I shoudnt have any more Boost then EVO set up 1.0 , then why I am not SAFE to run 1.0 boost and my headers are also JET-hot coated whihc brings the temps even more down...Also before I removed Secondary Cats my temp never rose even in after 2 WOT runs like 0-150 or 1/4 higher then 100c...+ I dont races all the times...

Also during those 4 Dyno pulls the car was working all the time !!!

E55 RUSS

Ttt

Vadim @ FD

E55 RUSS:

Go with evosport cooling package. Once it will get hot in Moscow, you will feel it's benefits.

PTE

Hi Mikhail: I do not know if you ever recieved my replies. concernibg the Where abouts of your T-Stat assy I sent to you Via U.S. Postal service. Attached is a scan of the paper work;. The last time I e-mail you . It was still sitting at the Internation airport Customs office ! in Moscow. You may have to pay some sort Of duty charges. ?. and drive over there to recieve it.
Just to let you know I've sent stuff to New Zealand , Singapore. Canada and have had no know delievery issues brought to my attention. They may be more strigent about Car parts be sent into your Home Country. Thanks ___PTE___

E55 RUSS

OK...but still I am OK when temps are not too high ???

E55 RUSS

No I havent received any answers to my last 2 e-mail I sent last months and this is the 1st time I ever had problems with shipping and we only have to pay customs if the goods cost over 350 USD...

Can you try to check with shipping company and get them to find the package or if its insured claim the money and send me another one ???

PTE

Mikhail: Please pardon my spelling and english. I had just gone done pushing the dumb end of the lawn mower around my yard and was quite tired. I will check with the US Postal service for the third time. I always do it by the phone 800 number and I have been rather pushy with them. Their answer comes back the same. It is sitting at the international airport in Moscow at the customs office. After that the communication just gets weak. Please take the time to drive over and see if there is something keeping them from delivering it to your home as I cannot find any issues on my end. I don't know how far that is for you.