My fiancé and 20 of her friends are are attending a charity event tonight for the burn unit at Children's Hospital. ("Fired up for kids") This is the second year she has participated and donated her time. She is the art director for the Calendar they are producing as a result of this event. Getting to the point they are attending an event with 100+ Firefighters all competing to make one of the 12 spots. Anyway, I told her to go have fun with the girls, little does she know I picked up a Kleemann Pulley and adjustable height sensor arms. So a couple buddies and I are going to spend the evening installing some mods on our cars while the girls go out.

I read Jangy's Pulley install instructions after looking at everything it seems straight forward. I ill make sure the pulley sits correctly on the key.

The Sensor arm instructions seem pretty straight forward too.

Any tips or tricks to be aware of?


FYI E554ME mentioned http://adjustableairride.com/ in one of his recent posts. I ordered the W211 kit in the evening the next day it was shipped. Excellent service!




More pics to come...

 

We were able to finish both the installation of the Sensor arms and Kleemann Pulley. I will do a write up on both installations over the weekend. The front sensor arms were a breeze however the rear was a little tricky until we figured out the tricks. We actually lowered the car too much. I recommend only adjusting the arms by 4mm. We tried 8 and the car was slammed. I HIGHLY recommend this mod and the vendor. Quality product, Well engineered, great packaging, great instructions, and great price! $240 shipped vs. $1000-1600 for the electronic lowering module. The Kleemann pulley would be very simple the 2nd time around. Again figuring out how the parts are attached took time. Also I was not told the torque converter needed a longer bolt to hold the crank in place while removing and installing the pulley. Again I will do a full write up. Also it was 11:30 when we finished so I really did not have the time to really open the car up. I did play a little and you can feel a significant power increase.

I will post more pics tomorrow with further review.










Before:



After:


Before:



After:



Before:




After:

 

nice work...the car now looks like it should!

 

I assume you will need an alignment completed?

 

Looks sick Eric... Let me know about the pulley.... you should be very happy with the power it produces...!!!

 

Alignment prob would not hurt. Thanks Christian I am really look forward to the ECU adjusting to the change. It seems like the 300 miles is the number.

 

nice drop!

 

Looks good.

 

looks sweet... Kleemann =

 

Very "Sweeeet" whip, congrats

 

please post the "how to " on the rear with pics if possible.

I received the adjustable link from John, and haven't have time to do it.

the car looks good !!

 

So the fronts are pretty simple I used a low rise lift but if you jack the front end up then you can get to the arms from the top. They are towards the front bumper next to the top of the strut. The lever with the ball joint is plastic so be very careful I used two thick flat head screwdrivers to pop the arms off the ball. once you get one end off the other end comes off much easier by twisting while pulling out. You will want to buy a digital caliper Harbor Freight or Checker has them for $10-20 This way you get a precise measure. John sends them out basically at the stock height. By moving the locking nut or bushing head (depending on front or rear) you can set the height and then move the nut or head up and down. I went with 4mm for my drop 8mm was WAYYYY to much. The fronts took about 5-10 minutes. The rear is tricky. You can find the arm above the rear differential access it from the drivers side. Remove the arm joint that is closest to the front bumper. You will use a long flat head screwdriver (or 2) to reach it. It takes a little finesse but it pops off just like the front. The rear section of the arm is connected to a plastic arm attached to the sensor. Remove the two silver (10mm on a ratchet w/extension) nuts that are 3" or so apart from each other and slide the sensor up and out. Use a flat head or long needle nose pliers to pop the arm off. The sensor should be hanging down under the bracket it was connected to when removing the arm. Take the arm out and lower the arm 4mm or desired length using the caliper (Front arms lower=longer Rear arms lower= Shorter) using two 10mm wrenches lock the nut and bushing head in place. Now re-attach the arm to the rear sensor arm. Put the sensor arm back into place dropping the two studs into the holes. Screw the two 10mm nuts back on. Next tool you will want to have is one of those long grabber tools they sell at checker, sears, harbor freight. Hold the arm with the grabber tool by the nut. placing the head on top of the ball joint use a pair of curved long Needle nose pliers to pop the bushing over the ball joint. You need the curved needle nose a screw driver does not have the right angle. (Also I used silicone spray to lube up the ball joint and bushing) After doing the install the 2nd time it took me 20 minutes to do the front and rear. All and all this is a very easy DIY install.


Tools:

10mm Socket
Ratchet & long extension
2 10 mm wrenches
2 flat head screw drivers (longer in size)
Curved long Needles nose pliars
Grabber Tool
Digital Caliper
Silicone spray
Floor jack or lift



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47257



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94162

 

The Pulley:

Tools:

Breaker Bar
27MM Socket short, deep
8mm,10mm & 13mm Socket
½, 3/8, & ¼ Ratchet & Extensions
2 Large flat head screw drivers
1 Small flat head screw driver
Needle nose pliers
15 Torx on a socket
17mm closed box Wrench
200+ Lb Torque Wrench
13mm Bolt 3” or so in length
Grease
Coolant
Floor Jack, Jack stands or lift

Bottom:
- Jack up the front end or lift the car
- remove three front belly pans under the car (8mm socket on ratchet)
- Remove the 15 torx screws that hold the hose brackets to the fan housing
- remove the black plastic dust cover on torque converter (Near the center on the front of the tranny in)

Top:

- Pop the front engine vanity cover off the clips a little yank and they pop out
- Remove the front belt by using a 17mm wrench to move the belt tensioner
- Remove the plastic crush pins that secure the black rubber gasket that runs front to back.
- Remove round plastic pins size of 1/2 dollar and the plastic rectangular piece under the plastic pin
- remove the six 10 mm bolts (3 left & 3 right) this secures the metal bracket that goes over the radiator
- remove the 2 10mm bolt that secures the bracket from the bottom
- set bracket forward out of the way revealing the radiator and fan
- pop 2 fan clips out with screw driver
- detach fan wiring harness

*optional step
- pull top radiator hose pin out with needle nose pliers. Place catch pan under the hose pull hose some coolant will pop out. If you have two people you can pull hose while pulling the fan up and out and then put the hose back in for minimal coolant loss. If you skip this step getting the fan out is not that big of a deal but getting the fan back in is difficult as the fan catches on the hoses.

-Pull fan completely out of the car


Bottom:
- using 17mm Socket on ratchet pull the lower tensioner to remove the rear belt. I did not remove the rear belt completely I just took it off one pulley.
- In the torque converter you will see 13mm bolts (You may need to spin the pulley with a 27mm socket and ratchet/breaker bar to reveal one of many 13 mm bolts) Remove one bolt. You will need another 13mm bolt with the same thread pitch I would say 3" is good. Thread the long bolt in enough to get a good grab. Maybe 6 turns. when you turn the pulley it will lock the pulley in order to give you the ability to remove the pulley bolt.

Top

- Now your ready to remove the pulley nut. Using a larger breaker bar and 27mm socket (deep may be required or socket and small extension) Remove the pulley bolt. It is a normal thread so lefty loosely rightly tightly. Once you break it loose use a 1/2 ratchet to remove the bolt.

- The pulley takes some wiggling and pressure to get it to move. We had one person on the bottom and one on top using flat headed screw drivers to apply pressure outwards while taping with a rubber mallet.
- bring the pulley up through the top
- new pulley mark where the key groove is with nail polish or similar paint. line the groove up with the key on the shaft. Again have someone on the bottom holding the pulley while the top person positions the pulley and aligns the key. Some of this is going to be "feel" though the pulley. We also used some grease to make the pulley slide on easier.
-When they pulley is set on the key start threading the large bolt the pulley should start moving back in to place. 200Lb of Torque needs to be applied. My TQ wrench only went up to 150 so it gave me a chance to pick up a bigger wrench $120 at sears for 1/2 Craftsman.


Top & Bottom

- Go in reverse and put everything back together. **** DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THE 13mm BOLT IN THE TORQUE CONVERTER BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE****

 

Here are some additional pics from the top to give you a better Idea. Unfortunatley I did not take pics from below.