Anyone rigged the Intercooler pump to run constantly??
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From: Moscow, Russia
E55K
If you are running a stock pump and want it rigged to run all the time its fairly simple procedure.
There are 2 wires coming off the pump. I believe they are brown and black.. BLACK is ground. The BROWN is the power trigger...
Disconnect the harness from the stock pump.. This will allow you to keep the factory connector intact.
Connect a new wire to the BROWN pump wire and run it up to the fuse panel that is shown in the pics above. Put an inline 15AMP fuse on it and splice it into the RED wire you see from Albert's pics.
Connect up a new wire to the BLACK pump wire and connect it to a suitable ground point.
That RED wire will have power when the car is in accessory or start mode. The great thing with this is if you are in the dyno room or staging for a 1/4mile blast, you can put the car into Accessory position and the pump will circulate fluid for you.
There are 2 wires coming off the pump. I believe they are brown and black.. BLACK is ground. The BROWN is the power trigger...
Disconnect the harness from the stock pump.. This will allow you to keep the factory connector intact.
Connect a new wire to the BROWN pump wire and run it up to the fuse panel that is shown in the pics above. Put an inline 15AMP fuse on it and splice it into the RED wire you see from Albert's pics.
Connect up a new wire to the BLACK pump wire and connect it to a suitable ground point.
That RED wire will have power when the car is in accessory or start mode. The great thing with this is if you are in the dyno room or staging for a 1/4mile blast, you can put the car into Accessory position and the pump will circulate fluid for you.
So basically I disconnect all the wires from the pump...
Then you "connect NEW wire to BROWN" which new wires is that ??? The wires which is diconnected from BLACK ???
What do mean RUN UP to FUSE panel ??? Where do I put the 15AMP fuse ???
The you say connect NEW WIRE to Black PUMP wire ??? which new WIRE is that and where is suitable ground point ???
It would nice it someone could post dealied pics of how to do everything exactly for people like ME
Also shold we do this FAN mode ??? doesnt it means that it will working all the time at full speed ???
Thanks you...
Last edited by E55 RUSS; May 22, 2007 at 04:00 AM.
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E 55
You guys are making this to hard. No need to get anywhere under the vehicle. Remove trunk left panel. Gain access to rear sam, unplug connector 1 depin wire 3 red/yellow, stochlock or solder to wire of PLUG 9 on the back same. That circuit is key on hot and runs the rear power outlet. I have pics if needed.
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Mercedes
Anyone try out what mxzxracwr mentioned? I'm looking at my rear Sam, but connector one does not have a red/yellow wired pin.
You guys are making this to hard. No need to get anywhere under the vehicle. Remove trunk left panel. Gain access to rear sam, unplug connector 1 depin wire 3 red/yellow, stochlock or solder to wire of PLUG 9 on the back same. That circuit is key on hot and runs the rear power outlet. I have pics if needed.
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From: Chicagoland
AMG
So to do this, you are taking the EXISTING two wires out, and adding your own.
So you would add another ground, and then for the side the ECU controls, you put your own source of 12 volts there, with a wire going from the fuse box to the pump.
You would need a 15 amp inline fuse, which is just a fuse you wire into a length of wire in case of a short on the circuit.
Then wire it to a fuse that is on during accessory, and Voila.
Now, if you wanted to be more involved, just run the wire AFTER the fuse to a switch, and then to the pump. Then you can put the switch virtually ANYWHERE (using right gauge wire etc..) and control your pump.
Or as someone said above, get really involved, and wire a 3 way switch to have the pump either ON, OFF or ECU controlled. Lots of options here.
Hope this helps!
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This place is a joke.
This is how I wired my pump to run in key position #1 and #2..
WARNING!!! Do this at your own risk, if you connect something wrong you may damage your electrical system/rear sam, or more. Also, the wiring may vary from year to year and VIN#'s.
The computer MUST see the pump relay installed or it will shut off your suprcharger and set a fault code. In the picture I used double sided tape to move the relay out of the way and made wire extensions using male/female wire ends. I then pull power from the rear wiper circuit in the SAM,which turns on in key #1 and #2, run it through a 15A fuse and then in to the + input for the pump. You will need a wiring diagram and/or multimeter, and the ability to understand how a relay works, and what each pin does (there is a diagram on the relay itself) to do this mod.
WARNING!!! Do this at your own risk, if you connect something wrong you may damage your electrical system/rear sam, or more. Also, the wiring may vary from year to year and VIN#'s.
The computer MUST see the pump relay installed or it will shut off your suprcharger and set a fault code. In the picture I used double sided tape to move the relay out of the way and made wire extensions using male/female wire ends. I then pull power from the rear wiper circuit in the SAM,which turns on in key #1 and #2, run it through a 15A fuse and then in to the + input for the pump. You will need a wiring diagram and/or multimeter, and the ability to understand how a relay works, and what each pin does (there is a diagram on the relay itself) to do this mod.
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Mercedes
This is how I wired my pump to run in key position #1 and #2..
WARNING!!! Do this at your own risk, if you connect something wrong you may damage your electrical system/rear sam, or more. Also, the wiring may vary from year to year and VIN#'s.
The computer MUST see the pump relay installed or it will shut off your suprcharger and set a fault code. In the picture I used double sided tape to move the relay out of the way and made wire extensions using male/female wire ends. I then pull power from the rear wiper circuit in the SAM,which turns on in key #1 and #2, run it through a 15A fuse and then in to the + input for the pump. You will need a wiring diagram and/or multimeter, and the ability to understand how a relay works, and what each pin does (there is a diagram on the relay itself) to do this mod.
WARNING!!! Do this at your own risk, if you connect something wrong you may damage your electrical system/rear sam, or more. Also, the wiring may vary from year to year and VIN#'s.
The computer MUST see the pump relay installed or it will shut off your suprcharger and set a fault code. In the picture I used double sided tape to move the relay out of the way and made wire extensions using male/female wire ends. I then pull power from the rear wiper circuit in the SAM,which turns on in key #1 and #2, run it through a 15A fuse and then in to the + input for the pump. You will need a wiring diagram and/or multimeter, and the ability to understand how a relay works, and what each pin does (there is a diagram on the relay itself) to do this mod.
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It seems, by what has been shared, that the IC pump circuit is constant ground-meaning, the black wire is terminated directly to chassis ground. The circuit is completed by applying 12v via a relay that is engaged by the ECU. If the "tune" method is not a viable solution for someone, you could simply tap into a suitable accessory 12v circuit (I haven't looked, but I bet there are many) with a fused jumper wire and suitably connect it to the source wire to the pump (it was stated as the brown wire, but again, I haven't looked to confirm) at any point between the relay and the pump. No need to remove anything. This will effectively bypass the computer controlled relay circuit and power the pump at all times. The relay circuit will function as originally intended and the computer will know no difference.
