E55 Performance Declining -- why?
Now, my E55 has 40,000 miles on it, but other than that, it is the same....no mods, still bone stock. The last 3 times I've taken it to the track, I could NOT break into the 12s. The best run yesterday was 13.03 @ 107.2 MPH. It also ran 13.38 @ 106 mph several times last night. I had about 1/8th tank of gas last night also.
The Density Altitude was even lower yesterday than it was when I ran three years ago. I even had a BETTER 60 Ft time yesterday (1.99 seconds) than I had three years ago (2.1 seconds.)
What could be causing the horrible decrease in performance? I'm not getting any error messages or anything, and I've taken it in for all scheduled services.
I used to be able to walk away from my friends automatic Camaro Z28. Last night, we ran dead even. (well, we both ran 13.38 seconds, but I was at 106 MPH, he was at 104 MPH) (He hasn't modded his car either.)
This is starting to make me mad.......does the E55 lose performance this much as the miles build up?
Last edited by Happy2th; May 19, 2007 at 02:26 PM.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/148019-holy-crap-you-guys-sneaky-ecu-reset-works.html
I had my plugs changed at 25,000 miles. I don't trust MB service schedule when I beat on the car.
What is the secondary air pump recall?
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What is the secondary air pump recall?
if this is the case, mb won't admit to anything and dealers have no way to fix it so the only sure way to return your car to normal is to pay powerchip to flash your ecu.
many people noticed this right away, but i'm sure there are much more that are still driving around in what's essentially now an e500 with e55 badges. keep your 1/4mile records, go get a dyno run to document the power loss, and take it to your dealer.
another possibility is that you could be experiencing an intermittant intercooler pump failure but typically you'll get a supercharger shut down which cuts almost all power and is REALLY noticable. regardless, lets hope this is the case! either way, let the dealer know your car is significantly down on power and let them investigate.
Last edited by chiromikey; May 19, 2007 at 11:49 PM.
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if this is the case, mb won't admit to anything and dealers have no way to fix it so the only sure way to return your car to normal is to pay powerchip to flash your ecu.
many people noticed this right away, but i'm sure there are much more that are still driving around in what's essentially now an e500 with e55 badges. keep your 1/4mile records, go get a dyno run to document the power loss, and take it to your dealer.
another possibility is that you could be experiencing an intermittant intercooler pump failure but typically you'll get a supercharger shut down which cuts almost all power and is REALLY noticable. regardless, lets hope this is the case! either way, let the dealer know your car is significantly down on power and let them investigate.
dsc, I agree if it was the pump, the S/C would disengage.
Now I *really* don't know why I'm losing power...............
1) If you or a friend have Autotap, do a data log.. If your intercooler pump is on its way out, it may have intermitent problems and not be running properly.
2) Take a piece of chalk and mark across the S/C drive belt onto the snout of the S/C.. Go and take it for a hard run.. If you come back and the chalk line has moved, you are having belt slip issues.
3) Inspect the S/C belt and make sure there is no black dust, no wear and no frizzing.. Inspect the underside of the belt and make sure all 7 grooves are full and there are no broken or worn sections. Depending on the miles, you might want to put a brand new belt on there. Sometimes just the belt being on for too long causes it to stretch or wear and will not provide the proper contact. Spend $40 and get a brand new Gates belt.
4) Check the spring tension on your tensioner. Try and wiggle it up and down with your hand.. If you can do this, then there is a problem. There should be no play in the tensioner.
5) Get the dealer to check your spark plugs.. its a long shot, but you never know..
The autotap logs will reveal the true symptoms of your car and then we'll be able to offer some more advice.. If you dont have it, my recommendation is invest the $250 and get one.. its an invaluable tool.
Good luck!
Now, my E55 has 40,000 miles on it, but other than that, it is the same....no mods, still bone stock. The last 3 times I've taken it to the track, I could NOT break into the 12s. The best run yesterday was 13.03 @ 107.2 MPH. It also ran 13.38 @ 106 mph several times last night. I had about 1/8th tank of gas last night also.
The Density Altitude was even lower yesterday than it was when I ran three years ago. I even had a BETTER 60 Ft time yesterday (1.99 seconds) than I had three years ago (2.1 seconds.)
What could be causing the horrible decrease in performance? I'm not getting any error messages or anything, and I've taken it in for all scheduled services.
I used to be able to walk away from my friends automatic Camaro Z28. Last night, we ran dead even. (well, we both ran 13.38 seconds, but I was at 106 MPH, he was at 104 MPH) (He hasn't modded his car either.)
This is starting to make me mad.......does the E55 lose performance this much as the miles build up?
1) If you or a friend have Autotap, do a data log.. If your intercooler pump is on its way out, it may have intermitent problems and not be running properly.
2) Take a piece of chalk and mark across the S/C drive belt onto the snout of the S/C.. Go and take it for a hard run.. If you come back and the chalk line has moved, you are having belt slip issues.
3) Inspect the S/C belt and make sure there is no black dust, no wear and no frizzing.. Inspect the underside of the belt and make sure all 7 grooves are full and there are no broken or worn sections. Depending on the miles, you might want to put a brand new belt on there. Sometimes just the belt being on for too long causes it to stretch or wear and will not provide the proper contact. Spend $40 and get a brand new Gates belt.
4) Check the spring tension on your tensioner. Try and wiggle it up and down with your hand.. If you can do this, then there is a problem. There should be no play in the tensioner.
5) Get the dealer to check your spark plugs.. its a long shot, but you never know..
The autotap logs will reveal the true symptoms of your car and then we'll be able to offer some more advice.. If you dont have it, my recommendation is invest the $250 and get one.. its an invaluable tool.
Good luck!
OK, I'll order the Autotap. I won't know ANYTHING about the information it gives me though.........I assume you'll know something about the information if I post it and maybe can help me further?
i've beat this to death (only because i know the effects all too clear)...however, i can promise you that if you have had all your scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer (as you stated), then you have without a doubt had your ecu reflashed during the secondary air injection pump campaign.
call back and don't ask them if they've reflashed your ecu, ask them if they've performed the secondary air injection pump recall...or simply look at your records for it.
i've beat this to death (only because i know the effects all too clear)...however, i can promise you that if you have had all your scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer (as you stated), then you have without a doubt had your ecu reflashed during the secondary air injection pump campaign.
call back and don't ask them if they've reflashed your ecu, ask them if they've performed the secondary air injection pump recall...or simply look at your records for it.
I think we may have figured out the problem!! He is going to pick up my car tonight and take it in to check it out. He said that he CAN reflash the ECU back to the way it was for me. We'll see what happens tomorrow..........


