jason427

Ok,
My last post was after the track when the car did not run what I thought it should.

Car is stock all but the following:
PTE Thermostat
ASP Pulley

Car was not cooled down enough.

Ran car in dyno mode (put into dyno mode just before the run)

60ft was decent......1.78
went down hill from there.
1/4 mile 12.52 @ 109.93mph.

Car as ASP pulley & drag radials, otherwise stock.

I was thinking heat soak was an issue so went to the dyno today.

This is what I noted:
87 degrees outside
Driving there on 195 about 75-80mph
IAT's ranged cruising from 106-104 degrees
Coolant ranged from 178-183 degrees (PTE seems to be working nicely)

At the dyno:
45min-1 hr cool down approximately
First run 2:45pm in 4th gear (speed limiter limited car to about 5600rpm, maybe due to 20" hre's?)
SAE correction
HP 413, TQ 501
Iat's ranged from 113 at start, to 168 at finish.

Backed that up with another pass in 3rd gear (ran up to 6600rpm)
HP 374,
Iat's from 125-189 (higher IATs probably due to 6600rpm)

Backed that up with a third run back in 4th gear (limited again at 155mph approximately 5600 or so RPM)
357 HP,
Iat's from 129-176

This is the info I have at the moment. The Dyno guy gave me a disc instead of a print out so I cant seem to pull anything other than HP, and not the other good stuff like Air Fuel ratios and torque. I have the files I can email anyone if they can get anything from them.

I am thinking there is some problem here, but I don't know where to start. Im sure it is COOLING related, but VRUS might have something for me to try.

Help,
Jason

rflow306

The Iat's are high for just one gear dyno pulls, especially with a 45 min to 1hr cool down. If I remember correctly on the dyno with just an ASP pulley and no cooling mods my IATS would go to 140-150 at the end of the run. I would suggest a johnson pump to start out and a larger heat exchanger or an additional one to complement the factory one. By doing this and separating the IC circuit from the cooling system you will be able to keep IAT's in-line.

jason427

There was no cool down between the 1st, 2nd, & 3rd run. Just before the initial run.

Do they still seem to high?

What is the part number for the Pump I need.

Hopefully VRUS will send me an Email im waiting for with the answers to all my problems.....

Jason

rflow306

With just the ASP you should be making around 450 to 460 rwhp imho.

This is the one most people have but I believe is being replaced by an upgraded model the CM90.



The only issue is making your own mounting bracket and getting hose adaptors for the unit to work. I can recommend a good shop in South Florida if you want someone to do the install, pm me if you like.

Jrocket

You cant do back to back runs like that with an ASP and no cooling mods.You atleast need the Johnson pump as Rflow suggested,the new number is indeed the CM90.

Next time run the car on the dyno for a few minutes with the fans blowing through the front,this will help with heat soaking.Soon as the IAT's are at the lowest then make the pull.

jason427

What about the first run, with close to an hour cool down. Do the IAT's look right? HP seems down?
Jason

Jrocket

When the car is just sitting,there is no fluid running through any of the cooling passages.All this does is lets the heat soak into the metal,sometimes making it even worse than running the car.Thats why I said to run the car for a few minutes on the dyno to get the temps down.Yes I think those first temps were boarder line,and Im betting they shot up very quickly when you strated to get the mph up.These cars react very well to the ASP pulley,but you have to get the cooling pump(minimum)or the pulley's out put will over run the heat exchangers capabilities.

Look at you data log and check to see,at what IAt temp does the ecu start pulling timing.

jangy

RennTech's pulley gives 450hp at the wheel, so I'd assume the ASp is more. You must be having some heat issues. There is every option in the world, depending on how much you wanna pay. Anywhere from $500 for a marine pump to $10K for an SLR knock-off

vrus

Jason,

You really need a cooling upgrade.. I keep saying that these ASP pullies are great, but, you HAVE to run a cooling system.. They just generate too much heat for the stock system. I know everyone is attracted to them because they are relatively inexpensive and generate alot of power but what good is it if the power only lasts for 1 pull.

I've been working on several cooling kits/ideas... and these are some choices you have:

1) The very basic approach would be to add a johnston pump like the one RFlow posted (I run the same one) + rig it to run with the car's ignition being switched on instead of being ECU controlled... This will help a bit.

2) You can do a water/ice reservoir in the back like what was done for Albert's (RFlow) car in addition to #1 above. We've pretty much got this kit figured out, and I've got a tank here ready to go.

3) Another kit I've been working on is based on the W220 auxiliary heat exchanger.. This kit is 95% complete.. Its just missing some bolts and some mounting hardware..

The kit has:

- Small mini-pump just for the aux heat exchanger
- 2 reservoirs for added capacity
- Overflow/fillup container
- H pipe to split the cooling circuit
- some MB heater hose and clamps

Everything is made to fit in the frontal area just ahead of the radiator (except for overflow/fillup reservoir.

Here is a pic of what it looks like:

jason427

Victor,

Please email or pm me the prices and when you could get them out.
Thanks,
Jason

jason427@hotmail.com

vrus

Email sent.

jcjmw

Me too!!!!!! Please email or pm me the prices. Also, I already have the Johnson Pump on the Wagon.

vrus

Hey Jack,

That picture is of the only kit in existence right now... If enough of you guys need a setup, we can get this copied and split the costs amongst all of you.

After I talk to Jason we'll see what can be done.. There is a 3rd person that emailed me asking me about it also so we can possibly make 2 other copies..

mstenberg

Victor,

I would also be very interested in this setup. Please PM/email me cost and availability.

-Mattias

StealthAuto

Very nice times!~

I suggest some sort of cooling upgrade..

jason427

Here is the dyno sheet with more info.

First run was when the car was cooled for an hour.

Second run was shortly after when it was hot.

Jason
[IMG][/IMG]

vrus

Jason,

You see that nosedive at 4,500RPM where it drops below 10:1... That is most likely BELT SLIP..

Check your belt for wear and look for black dust around the pullies. Maybe your belt is a little too loose.. check to see how much slack there is...