Don't mean to hijack the thread or to butt in where not invited, but my 2 pennies worth says the Evo Sport Cooling Kit was money very well spent. I am running that kit with one of Patrick's modified t-stats (I kept throwing CELs with the original version so he sent me a "modified" version of his cooler T-stat - so far no CELs!!!) My car runs significantly cooler even during the last bout of 90* plus weather and 90% humidity that we have had here in Kansas City. This morning was considerably cooler at 75* and my car ran like a freight train. I also have the Kleemann Stage I upgrade with a stainless resonator bypass. Anyway, I know Evo's kit is pricey, but the quality is top notch and my SA at the dealership (Aristoctat Motors in Merriam) had his team install it with absolutely no problems or hiccups whatsoever. The techs said they wish every mod was as well made and executed. I say the Evo kit falls in the "get what you pay for" category and I highly recommend it!

 

PDC: Thank you for the review and feedback.

Stevebez, I rest my case.

 

Yes and I still have not found the optimal solution – but a hell of allot closer.

Erm no case need to be made Vadim ... I did not say your stuff did not work … just trying to see if a different approach cannot yield a better result.

In future I’ll remember not to comment on Evosport goods… seems a touchy topic

 

I am just giving you hell.

Now that 55s are coming out of warranty and leases, I might look into making a dedicated unit to replace factory one.

 

Using the W220 style is blocking the air to the radiator,not too mention there is already a spot devoted for the HE,in the lower section.

Replacing the stock HE with a larger one like in the pic above looks good and might be very effective but what about the air flow to the oil cooler now?The oil cooler is mounted to the underneath side of the stock HE.Now that you have a larger HE in there,the oil cooler is starved of air.So then what?

Adding a smaller HE to the existing HE is the norm for our cars.It clearly lets air to the oil cooler and adds more volume and cooling to the IC system.Its proven effective but is there a better solution?Im not talking about the SLR coolers either,thats more of a pain that its worth IMO.

Replace the stock HE with a larger custom HE and in the stock general location,keeping the face of it in the same area as the stock one.OR move the custom HE forwad like the pic above and put the oil cooler in front of the HE instead of underneath it.Im not sure if anybody has stacked the stock HE side by side,it might work but might also block air to the oil cooler.List on the stock HE is $566.40.

I though Vrus had some pics up awhile back of his creation but not sure where they are or if he changed his design or not.

 

i'll have a custom set-up finished next week...kind of a 3 stage set-up. i don't know how well it will work as there really isn't much charted territory when it comes to i/c mods but i'll get some data logging done asap. i'm expecting worse case scenario to be equivalent to the piggy back solutions from evosport and renntech. i'm sure vrus' slr style set-up will be the ultimate but i can't wait any longer with this az summer robbing so much hp.

 

You taking the front seats out and adding a small freezer?

 

...freezers don't get cold enough!!! lol, no...nothing that hardcore.

 

Thought maybe you went crazy and had a built in ice machine in the trunk like Rflow306 does.

 

well...i'm not denying that.

 

OK so an update...

W220 rad fits ... but its friggin tight width wise and not all the plastics routing to the intake areas either side of the engine radiator will fit back - will need to custom fab up some plates here. So its no home run ... this rad needs to be 40-50mm narrower and it will fit real sweet.

All brackets have to come off the W220 rad as well shorten the one long pipe. Rad mounting for now has to be by means of ties (with ~4mm rubber spacing from A/C rad) around the end tanks - for now at least untill I have finally decided on the mounting position, but its slightly offset to the left of the A/C rad, mostly for clearance on RHS from the powersteering coolant tubing.

Power steering coolers and tubing can be neatly bent to allow space for the new rad. Ultimately I may need to fit the W230 P/S cooler here as the stiff tubing might not clear the new rad as well on the RHS enough - we shall see.

Since this rad is in front of the engine rad I will leave circuit looped into the engine coolant circuit / reservoir for now and see how it performs. If it does jack - or close enough to it - I'll split and re-asses.

I should get the new Johnson CM90 (http://www.johnson-pump.com/JPmarine...tion/cm90.html) tomorrow ... sure looks the part ...and all hoses (unfortuantely I had to get the unsightly blue - but at least I will know what has to come off should I want to bring her back to stock !!), clips and ties to make it look a little more tidy than it is now.

A question re Johnson pump do you need to upgrade the wiring to the pump? The wires look pretty weak in terms of current handling capacity, I doubt they could handle 10 amps - whats the power rating on the OEM pump? Also what do you do with what looks like a breather hose from the back of the OEM pump?

So since I have got this to fit - although not ideally - I will hold off on getting ANOTHER rad fabbed up to replace the OEM rad. The OEM rad has quite tricky mounting and A/C bits and pieces rivited to it which makes it even more of a PITA. The easiest would be to fab up a custom section to go int front of the OEM Rad. I got a decent design of this that will fill most the space ahead of the OEM Rad and just about double the stock capacity. This should be pretty straight forward, but still waiting to hear back for the rad guys whats involved to get this done. Last time they said a 6 week lead time... If you want the Visio drawing of the design - shoot me a PM.

So allot of effin about and a little filing here and there on some replaceable brackets plus some major filing and grinding of the W220 rad and we got her in. As of now car can be brought back to stock 100% still and thats the way I would like to keep things - no permanent changes to any major parts.

Some pics only when I am done... and things are all tidy... hopefully by Friday and then I can get going on the TB & Phenolics.

Some periferal notes:-
- ASP pulley has quite allot of rust present, but none by the welds...
- Some rubber debris in the region of the S/C clutch assembly indicating some signs of belt slip present. Blet still looks OK.

 

Thats great, I am glad that you got it in. You sound worse than me when it comes to a clean install The pump electrical from what I have read here taps the 10 amps from a circuit that is ignition switched on, no ECU control, pump runs all the time ignition is on. I have no idea where they tap this feed.

My plan was to tap 15 amp from alternator, go to a relay that would be controlled by the original ECU controlled pump feed. I am not sure the pump needs to run all the time.

 

Steve, you will need to run a relay. Stock pump is only 2.5 Amps.

 

Thanks Vadim - sheesh what a wimpy OEM pump ... so thats like 30 watts? The Johnson is 125w...

Yep I have already ordered the relay and wiring - now trying to decide if I should go with ECU pump trigger or ACC pump trigger... ?

Any thots on that breather hose coming off the back of the OEM pump and where it goes to / what it does / what to do with it?

 

Dayam .... been a protracted layoff here and will only get the parts on the car this w/e ...

Monday hopefully will have some pics and report back ...

BTW any advice on how to bleed the I/C will be much apprec...

 

Godamn..this ain't going to win me any points here but...This evosport, renntech, and kleeman stuff is waaaaayyyy overpriced. This is f-ing ridiculous. I've been modding cars for a while and am familiar with what it takes to produce alot of these upgrades and the kind of mark-up that is normally associated with this. Take a cue from the japanese on this. Take an existing product/idea, improve it, produce and sell it cheaper or comparably. I'm just being honest here and giving an outsiders point of view. This is re-enforced by the fact that people are actually having one off stuff made locally and many people are entering the market to produce this stuff. It seems like they (the tuners who think they are the only game in town) are more interested in making more dollars than more hp. I mean...how much does it actually cost to produce these goods? A >200% mark-up. You can keep that ****.

 

you're preaching to the chior but for a long time there just wasn't many people interested in building performance parts for these cars because of the small market...and even fewer people willing to experiment with their $90k mb. i still think it's disgusting that aftermarket parts cost so much when the exact same part for a ford mustang costs 1/8th the price. it's what forced me to find someone to build my custom headers, exhaust, and i/c kit.

 

OK ...

New rad and CM90 pump is in, 80mm VRTB is in, Vic's new phonlics are in and just gotta put in catch can and we are all good to go.

Bad news is I aint got any pics... sorry but there was considerable verbal flying around getting the rad stuff sorted... and I had no intent of adding to the flurry by trying to take good snaps... but I can report back as follows.

RHD and LHD cars are almost symetrically opposite in terms of where electric boxes are etc which I found interesting... but I digress...

The cooling was a major PITA getting the pump mounted. I actually managed to get it mounted on the OEM pump bracket (bolting the the CM90's bracket to it) and I did not have to chop any bumper or mouting bracket - but its a very tight fit. Thankfully I can still bring the car 100% back to stock if required.

The routing of the hose inlet to the pump is tricky (even using a 90 degree formed hose) and I may make a little reservoir in front of the pump and connect this to the rad than the config I have at mom - I'll see how it works... Not as noisy as I thought and thats mounted onto the chassis without rubber insulation - there just aint space.

OK so got it all sorted and so forth and then moved onto the TB install.

When u are unfamliar with the bolts and stuff on the car its takes ages to do - but thankully not so bad - had my father in law (who is ex Boeing engineer help me out of a few things...) invaluable!

Nothing really tricky about the TB install except some of the 74mm pieces dont swap over - so still checking this out. The straps holding the air boxes' rubber hose to the TB "T" piece took some patience though. Vics kit bolts are fabulous though compared to the OEM bolts... real nice.

The phenolics are well simple gaskets etc but getting 3 to line up under a ~20kg SC was no fun - next time I will use some guide pins... and a proper lift rig.

OK so phenolics are in etc but one thing occured to me and now the injectors are sitting 4mm further away from the inlet valves ... is this going to cause any problems?

Hmm what else ? A Haynes manual would have saved me many hours !!!!

So catch can to go in but this will have to go driver side as you guys look at it (passenger side as I look at it). not sure I can use the same firewall holes as per DSC's install but will see tonight.

More updates tom.

 

I thought C90 woudnt work with OEM system, cuase of the OEM pipes can havfe that much flow as C90 produces ???

Chiromikey can you chime in ???

 

CO90 and CM90 have same flow rate - CM is just a bit more heavy duty and larger - many guys use the CO90 pump here ...

The upstream pipes are not the issue - the inlet to the pump needs to be as large a volume as possible so it prevents the pump from cavitating - this is the only real issue on the pump side.

I dont think the 90 series pumps flow too fast as the radiators and piping provide substantial restriction of their own... the pump only has 0.25 bar pressure so thats not massive either.

 

So with IC mod is better to use C90 pump rather them C30 ???

 

nice job to get the cm90 to fit wthout cutting!

e55russ,

it is my opinion through my own research that the cm30 is plenty sufficient. we are all charting our own territory so there are no set rules. my datalogging prove to me that the flow rate of the cm30 works and works well, and because of this i can avoid several problems that can occur with the cm90. datalogging by others show that the co90 also works but as i have stated in the past and as stevebez also mentions, a major concern (besides items i pm'd you) is the restriction on the inlet of the cm90/co90 if you use oem plumbing. by reducing the diameter of the inlet you can cause cavitation of the impeller which will cause loss of cooling and possibly destroy the pump. by reducing the outlet diameter plumbing (which we would be doing by using oem plumbing) you effectively reduce the flow rate of the cm90/co90 anyways so who knows how much more the 90 series actually flow over the 30 series in our systems...it may not even be that much.

 

OK...Thanks Mike...


Comments ????

 

CM090 replaced C090, which is no longer made.

C030 flows twice as much as stock Bosch and should be sufficient.