Jakpro1

Wonder if anyone that has actually done the job like Brian can confirm this.

Everyone I have talked to said to get that supercharger bolt out you either have to jack the motor up slightly with motor mounts loosened.....or take out the black plastic fan shroud directly in front of the supercharger snout. Both quite a beeotch to the home mechanic.

Maybe it's possible on the SL's but I have heard from more than one person that the bolt won't come straight out on our E55 cars.

What gives? Can anyone confirm?

Thanks in advance.

bobgodd

You can get the bolt out without jacking up the motor. You do have to remove the plastic fan shroud though. The bolt takes a 15/16 socket. I've found that the easiest way was to remove the fan shroud, then use a 12" socket extension, and an impact driver and the bolt comes right out.

samho2009

Yup, 45 mins is right on the dot. Maybe 30 if my buddy didn't take the clutch pack back out and we had to knock it back in! But I wanted to update this thread here with my experience. Taking the bolt off was a *****. It is doable that you don't need to lift the engine up and use an impact wrench like the MB tech bulletin says. However the clearance between the bolt and the fan shoud is very tight. I didn't take the fan shroud off though, but what I did do is buy a 24mm shallow oil filter socket off of ebay for like $18 and a 12" 3/8" drive breaker bar that has the least depth from drive end to edge of bar. Then I used my floor jack pole as a longer breaker bar to get that extra torque needed to loosen the bolt. On the supercharger pulley, I used a strap wrench with a 3' bar. With this set up, the bolt was still a ***** to take off. I swear the factory put more than 40 ft-lbs on it as what is required!! When I took off the old clutch pack, I noticed three shims used on the shaft. With this, my clutch pack was out of tolerance at over 0.500mm...maybe even 0.6xxmm. So I thought, ****, maybe I didn't need a new clutch pack after all. I could have gotten away with the old clutch pack just by removing one of the three shims there to bring the tolerance back down in the range of 0.35-0.45mm. Oh well, too late, I'm running on 2 new shims, a new clutch pack at less than tolerance spec, but eventually it'll wear itself in. The car is running great and smooth!

Hope this all helps out there! Before buying a new clutch pack, try taking your original one off first, maybe take out a shim, measure in at 0.35-0.45mm and see if the chirps and shutters go away. Save yourself that $600! If not, order from www.parts.com at $568 plus $28 ship (I think) and get yourself a shallow 24mm socket, a low profile 3/8" drive breaker bar, and a large strap wrench (something you might need to buy from Grainger, MSC, or McMaster)...I borrowed mine from work, so to buy one it might cost ya, and have two guys muscle it off. That'll do it.

samho2009

Just wanted to update you DIY'ers regarding the SC clutch replacement I'm experiencing. Before, I only used 2 shims with my new clutch with a spacing of <0.35mm (I think it was like around 0.28). I experienced good engagement, but only when I rev the engine at a higher rpm from stop. Otherwise it would slip as if it was out of spec like my older SC clutch I took out. I decided I needed to bring the gap to greater than 0.35mm, so I added another shim (3 total, as like my original). I also came in on the low end of spec at 0.381mm. Much better performance, smoother engagement from stop at lower rpm. I believe I still need some time for the new clutch to wear in with the SC flywheel (whatever you call it).

On another note, I did notice that at tolerances lower then the spec of 0.35mm, the SC clutch has a hard time disengaging when the engine is revving high, thus also affecting the downshifting of the transmission. A symptom that some of you guys experience as a 'stuck supercharger'. I believe it's a combination of the tighter clearance and the performance of the clutch engagment/release that is compromised. The clutch needs the spec tolerances to perform optimally from it's centrifigal force due to it's spin to it's force of engagment on to the SC flywheel to give you that smooth transfer of power feel. Otherwise, like in my case, the clutch spec was too close, the engagment force wasn't strong enough to transfer the spinning clutch to the SC blower, thus, slippage, lack of hp, etc.

14Track

For those looking for the bearing Pt#, it's on the back of the bearing once you pull off the pulley. It's #45BG07 S5DL. A couple of tips: If you use an electric impact gun, it has more torque (mine does in this case) to pop the bolt off. Mine came loose in under 2 seconds. I heated the bolt with a Mapp gas torch for 30 sec before using the impact. An assembly tip: Place the new bearing into a freezer for 30 minutes. The metal will shrink and make an easier bearing install. Call up a Nachi distributor and order your new bearing today! Happy wrenching.

benreindl

CAN ANYONE TELL ME CORRECT CLUTCH CLEARENCE FOR THE AMG32
S/C CLUTCH ?????

THANKS BEN

Johncy2000

Do you just unbolt the center bolt and the whole assembly comes off. or Is it harder than that? ALso what are the torque specs for the center bolt?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

90 foot pounds of torque

bighman

hey guys, what type of grease do I use when placing the bearing back in?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

bearing is sealed and packed with grease. you just have to press it into the sc clutch.

SuperchargerV8

What happens if u need to change the clutch but u dont want to lose the chirp i love the chirp is there any way to change the clutch but keep the chirp ?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

yes replaced the clutch with another worn clutch. i have a worn clutch you want to buy it

03'55AMG

Lol I like the chirp to but putting a worn clutch on defeats the purpose of even changing it

14Track

When you install the clutch pack back on, you can put a thin coat of 30wt oil on the input shaft. That way, you'll get the proper torque value when you cinch down that bolt.
As to get that "chirp" to come around again after installing a new clutch, wash your engine a couple of times. The clutch face will rust up a bit, very much like a brake rotor after a bath. Then you'll be on your way to chirp until your hearts content.
C.

03'55AMG

Wash the engine? Im not bringing water anywhere near there

Max.H

Nice write up! I gotta replace mine out soon.

SuperchargerV8

But when ppl where buying e55's back in 03 and 04 brand new i heard they had the chirp from the first day they drove them out of the show room ???

Viet_Amg408

i was once loved "Chirp" sound but over time is annoying and is delay SC engagement...why would anyone like that?

Chris Buffalo

From earlier :

FYI, parts.com, 1130900044 is now $563.50! At mercedespartssuperstore.com, lower at $672.40. Happy flying! (that was 2009)

Not anymore! Yikes!

I am going to be assebling all of these parts to do this myself - does anyone out there make an "upgraded" clutch in the aftermarket?

I mean, if I'm spending a grand....ya know?

tbal

Aftermarket nada...

$563 not bad at all! Last time I checked it was 900+

AMG_RL

yup what Tbal said, I was looking for one awhile back and the cheapest I found it for was around $800.

Alps

I feel quiet lucky, i picked up a brand new one from Ebay inc the pully for equiv of $200!

I thought it was worth buying and keeping it on the shelf.

Mind you im still going to try and get the current one which is chirping and occasional rough engagement changed under warranty.

fscarce1

Where at? I'm only finding it for 1056.00. If it's cheaper elsewhere love to know.

Thanks!

kipper215

Does anyone know where to get this part for the lowest price. The cheapest I found was $978 on Parts.com http://www.parts.com/parts/index.cfm...earch&siteid=2

primepartssuperstore $1088
http://www.primepartssuperstore.com/...icleid=1422997

mbph

Does the bearing come out from inside or through the front where it faces the fan?