W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

E63 Rotors on an E55?

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 04:02 PM
  #1  
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2018 E63S,
E63 Rotors on an E55?

My stock pads and rotors are toasted...they need to be replaced. Is it a simple swap if I decide to order E63 rotors instead?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokinV10
My stock pads and rotors are toasted...they need to be replaced. Is it a simple swap if I decide to order E63 rotors instead?
I believe they do swap over BUT.....have you rpiced the E63 rotors over the stock E55 ones?You might very well change your mind when you do,or order some Evosport ones instead.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:04 PM
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They are practicaly identical in all dimensions, but as J said, I'd consider the price and weight gains. They are only 5lbs (actually less) lighter than the OEM E55s. The EVOs are closer to 10 per corner.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 03:09 AM
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Anyone know what the difference is with the Brembo GT kit vs. our stock setup on our E55, which are made by Brembo? Both are 8 pot, but the Brembo GT kit has larger 380mm rotors. Calipers any better? Curious if I could buy just the adapter off this kit to accommodate the larger 380mm rotors, that is if it's of any benefit.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 11:29 AM
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Has anyone used evosport rotors? I would like to know how they stand up to the elements after some time. I just replaced my rotors and they already have some rust buildup.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by h0an9
Anyone know what the difference is with the Brembo GT kit vs. our stock setup on our E55, which are made by Brembo? Both are 8 pot, but the Brembo GT kit has larger 380mm rotors. Calipers any better? Curious if I could buy just the adapter off this kit to accommodate the larger 380mm rotors, that is if it's of any benefit.
The Brembo GT kit is a legit setup. The OEM setups made by Brembo for makers are of a lower grade (all around). You can not addapt the calipers. To go true Brembo, you need to swap out calipers and rotors. Also be careful because 15 inch rotors likely won't fit the fronts.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 12:41 PM
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The EVOSport rotors are fine. i like them lots. I paid $1500 for the 4 and save exactly 36lbs. I mated them to Porterfield pads and the only negative has been some squeeking at low speeds. Other than that, the heat, and grab has been a major improvement for the money.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
The EVOSport rotors are fine. i like them lots. I paid $1500 for the 4 and save exactly 36lbs. I mated them to Porterfield pads and the only negative has been some squeeking at low speeds. Other than that, the heat, and grab has been a major improvement for the money.
Awesome thanks for the answer. Been trying to figure that out awhile. $1500 for the EVOSport floating rotors, good price where did you get them at that price? I always see $2000 for them anywhere I look.

Which Poterfield model did you get or do they only make one model for our cars. Hows the brake dust less than our OEM pads?
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by h0an9
Awesome thanks for the answer. Been trying to figure that out awhile. $1500 for the EVOSport floating rotors, good price where did you get them at that price? I always see $2000 for them anywhere I look.

Which Poterfield model did you get or do they only make one model for our cars. Hows the brake dust less than our OEM pads?
I got the rotors from a friend that bought them from EVO when they had their sale last year. The porterfield come in two compunds (street and track). I got the street version, since the track ones just don't work out on normal driving. The set costs about $500 and get them direct from porterfield. Brake dust is actually less than the oem pads, but I have noticed more squeeking after heat cycles. the squeeking is as you are slowing down to almost crawling speeds. A good hard run and they are quiet again for a bit. I honestly don't mind it. The bite on the setup is MUCH better and I haven't seen the overheating sign since (keep in mind I did not change brake fluid brand or composition, but did have the system flushed).
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jangy
I got the rotors from a friend that bought them from EVO when they had their sale last year. The porterfield come in two compunds (street and track). I got the street version, since the track ones just don't work out on normal driving. The set costs about $500 and get them direct from porterfield. Brake dust is actually less than the oem pads, but I have noticed more squeeking after heat cycles. the squeeking is as you are slowing down to almost crawling speeds. A good hard run and they are quiet again for a bit. I honestly don't mind it. The bite on the setup is MUCH better and I haven't seen the overheating sign since (keep in mind I did not change brake fluid brand or composition, but did have the system flushed).
Thanks for the info.
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jangy
I got the rotors from a friend that bought them from EVO when they had their sale last year. The porterfield come in two compunds (street and track). I got the street version, since the track ones just don't work out on normal driving. The set costs about $500 and get them direct from porterfield. Brake dust is actually less than the oem pads, but I have noticed more squeeking after heat cycles. the squeeking is as you are slowing down to almost crawling speeds. A good hard run and they are quiet again for a bit. I honestly don't mind it. The bite on the setup is MUCH better and I haven't seen the overheating sign since (keep in mind I did not change brake fluid brand or composition, but did have the system flushed).
I remember discussing the heating sign on the board. There was conjecture that the heating sign was a mathematical function derived by the computer based on how hard you were using the brakes. This would suggest that the heating light is actually based on the temperatures at the wheel.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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You are right in that the light pops on when the car calculates that heat is building, NOT at the wheels but at the rotors. Once the initial light comes on, you can continue ( I was told to by the AMG instructor and it wasn't my car, so hey). We did a few more laps and I felt slight, if any fade. Then the warning changed to say stop now. We took it into the parking lot and just coasted about for a bit and were right back at it. Either way, on an OEM E55 and some twisty roads, I can get that light on within 5 miles. I simply have not seen the light since I put on the rotors and pads. the squeeking is getting worse and I attribute it to the rotors more than the pads.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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Jangy did you actually weigh them or did you go by what was stated?
also we deal in KG's here so any one know what the conversion would be in kilos?

also what it would work out to when driving, interims of weigh saving?

thanks
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
You are right in that the light pops on when the car calculates that heat is building, NOT at the wheels but at the rotors. Once the initial light comes on, you can continue ( I was told to by the AMG instructor and it wasn't my car, so hey). We did a few more laps and I felt slight, if any fade. Then the warning changed to say stop now. We took it into the parking lot and just coasted about for a bit and were right back at it. Either way, on an OEM E55 and some twisty roads, I can get that light on within 5 miles. I simply have not seen the light since I put on the rotors and pads. the squeeking is getting worse and I attribute it to the rotors more than the pads.
Jangy - does the pedal feel any different? some people don't like the electronic brakes, but I think they are fine/great.....
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Zod
Jangy did you actually weigh them or did you go by what was stated?
also we deal in KG's here so any one know what the conversion would be in kilos?

also what it would work out to when driving, interims of weigh saving?

thanks
I weighed them myself on an analytical scale. LOL, you are gonna have to do your own conversions. there are 2.2 lbs in a Kg, right?

The difference in feel is huge, simply because it is not just weight, but unsprung weight. Every time you speed up, slow down, turn, or make any shift in momentum, that weight comes into play. Consider a gyroscope and see how much easier it is to manipulate when the weight is dropped.
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dogshine
Jangy - does the pedal feel any different? some people don't like the electronic brakes, but I think they are fine/great.....
I also love the electronic brakes. Only negative is that I don't have the road feel I used to, but I've learned to manipulate the system to help shift the weight in turns.

The difference in feel is a crisper snap when you hit the pedal. It basically does not need as much effort to get better grip. Also, after some hard driving, the OEM setup would throw a heat sign up and the brakes would fade just a bit. I have had no fade at all with the Rotors and porterfield pads.
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