sanfran

Hi,

I removed the pulley bolt. That part was no problem with the pulley tool. The pulley just does not want to move.

I have been out to buy more tools twice now. First I tried from the top, then from the bottom. From the bottom there is a suspension sub-frame in the way to get a good angle.

Oh, this is on an SL55.

Any ideas, can anyone help me out? I'm in West Los Angeles.

Thanks.

waxking1

I had the same problem. The best thing is to pry from two sides at the same time, but this takes two people. I used a pry bar and put an old sway bar rubber bushing around the bar to pry against. Just keep trying, it will come loose.

komp55

Is there some sort of puller that will fit in their and work?

SSM AMG

I had the same problem. It took me 2 plus hours with the help of my brother in law. It will take a alot of prying.

waxking1

If there is, I think it would have to be a special tool for the job. I have two different pullers and neither would come close to working. A lot of the problem is caused by the space limitation.

Blacksport350

A big blow torch will get it right off (along with ruining the main seal and old pulley).

That aside, patient and careful prying will work it off but protect everything that you are prying against so you don't mark it up.

sanfran

Got it off.

I have two different pullers, they did not fit.

It took some time, but it is done now. I'm sure it would have been easier with the help of another person or the benefit of a lift.

OzE55

After all that tell us what you did, and with what?

jangy

A lift really comes in handy. You literally need to "walk" the pulley off the crank. I would avoid pry bars as much as you can.

Another thing to keep in mind. Do the work when the engine is COLD. If the insides is hot, it will slightly expand and bind the pulley more than if it were cold. I know it sounds funny, but it worked on my car. The old pulley slid right off and the new one went right in.

For those that have any issues removing their pulleys, make sure you check the woodruff key, just in case. That would also cause the symptoms you note.

sanfran

I went to Pep Boys and got a set of pry bars. One of them worked well.

sanfran

Yes, the car was cold. It had been sitting over night. Maybe I should have iced the sucker.

sanfran

So now that the pulley is on the car, here are my issues:

I got some surging just under 3,000 RPM. Is that because I don't have a chip and the engagement point of the SC clutch is too rough or does my ECU just need to adjust?

jangy

Now wait, I was still on the install.

So, which pulley did you install? Also, do the sneaky ECU reset, to speed the adapting up by dumping the buffer. Larger pulley, my main notices were slight more lag at initial WOT and soem dead power at the top end. As far as jerkiness, only the first gear engagement at 1500 or so RPMs is rougher than before. 1 -2 is fine, so I want to make sure the pulley itself isn't slipping or that the belt isn't.

Not that I am saying anything went wrong for you, but if the woodruf key gets trashed, then the pulley is only held by the TQ of the bolt, so it literally spins and locks from time to time. That can be a jaring feeling and is usually very noticable. If the belt slips, you get a jerk when the gears shift, but you should also hear a scream from the belt.

Back up, give me all the stats on the car (year), mods, etc. and pulley.

sanfran

My car is a 2004 SL55. I confirmed that the key on the crank was in the 12 o'clock position before I put the pulley on. The key sits at the 40 mark on the pulley. I'm using an ASP pulley.

I did not do the ECU reset. I'll do that Monday.

I still have to install the heat exchanger, 090 Johnson pump, phelonic spacers, and TB, but that won't be untill next weekend. I'm planning on keeping the existing heat exchanger and the new one in in-line configuration.

What software do you think would be best suited for this set-up?

jangy

Dude, of course I'm going to recommend Powerchip software, since Vadim has been getting so much custom tuning done right now.

Why get the tune before the other add ons? That is a waste. Get all your crap on, then get it tuned. If you tune now then add a TB, it is a new ball game.

Personally, I think these cars are easier to tune when they have had all of the add ons (TB, Pulley, headers), because that is when the real grunt comes out from every little tweak. As it is, you can really only search for power.

I can't wait for the TB. Let me know if you need help getting any parts. I'm going Johnson 90, too but at least i have a little more room under there than you do.

nick 55

I have done this many times. If you use a pin point tip on a torch, and heat up the inside of the pulley, just around the crank, just to about 200 degrees F. it will come off much easier. Then, replace the crank seal, and heat the new pulley where it fits around the crankshaft. It goes much easier. I have done these in 45 minutes start to finish before on an E, the SL isn't much different.

nick 55

That was a very good idea, it makes it much easier to line up the pulley, and to see the key and ensure it didn't fall off and into the oil pan.

psk145

my car jerks HARD at 3500rpm in first gear. It only does it if I accel gently and hold it in 1st. I used to think it was software, but I think its rough engagement

jangy

The thing is that your SC should be engaged by 2K rpms, so i don't know why you go so high before it engages? Does it act different if you give it gas at the low?

psk145

If I drive like you, its no problem. Only when driving slow and keeping it in 1st. Smooth from idle until 3500, then WHAM!

Giving it moderate gas gives the expected little early on, but no big jerk at 3500