ChicagoX

Since having the opportunity to drive 3 modded, lowered E55s now, I've noticed a disturbing commonality.

All lowered E55s I've seen have pretty severe tire feathering from the camber; this is nowhere more evident than at the track, where traction is notably affected.

The surfeit of torque from the aftermarket mods quickly overwhelms the compromised contact patch, leading to the tire smoke we're all so accustomed to.

Has anyone made an adjustable camber solution for the rear of these cars? Seeing the number of lowered 55s and 63s on this board, I'm surprised that nobody has addressed this (considered by me) a major issue.

I would love to lower the car, but I won't until I know there's a solution.

Anyone lowered care to chime in?

Vader13

I just installed the RENNTECH lowering module.
It has several different settings.
From what I have seen, the camber does not change much from the lowest to highest setting. At least not to my EYE.
Anyway, the cars camber is pretty bad, Its going to eat tires, but the looks and performance are really improved, plus it's fun playing with the settings.
Good question, I was wondering if there was a camber kit also.

ChicagoX

I think that's part of the problem.

Please keep an eye on feathering....I'm very curious, thanks.

AMG Rider

it sure does kill the inside of the tire~
i had this issue.
ended up purchasing Renntech toe links+adjustable camber bushings.
and took care of the problem 100%

jpohl402

Curious - Ive read on this forum the best way to launch your car is with airmatic off (neither the double selectable llights by shifter) which I believe has the car at a comfortable, smooth and HIGHER height...... unless I am wrong about that info, why would a lowered car provide better stability? Merely gathering info folks.........

Vader13

Lower center of gravity for one reason
thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/235233-toe-links.html#post2711720

MRAMG1

Thanks AMG Rider:

Yeah, ALL independent suspension cars, rear that is, INDUCE MORE neagtive camber when you lower them. This is because the lower control rise, and causes the top of tire to move Outwards, hence more NEGATIVE camber. Your bushing should solve this quite easily. My 280Z was HORRIABLE with this issue, and yes, it EAT rear tires on the inside edge. Get an alignment and try to run NO MORE than 1 degree negative camber for best contact patch, and wear.

See yeah

OzE55

I thought the top of the tire moved INWARDS and put more 'pressure' on the inside edge of the tire. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

ChicagoX

The man from Down Under with the save !!!!

Correct.

MRAMG1

OOPS, me bad, your correct about moving inward, too early in the morning for me, lack of caffine. But the negative camber part was right. Sorry guys.

Thanks for the correction without a flame

See yeah

chiromikey

i'm having a set of adjustable camber arms made at the moment and i'll comment on them after installation in the upcoming weeks.

ChicagoX

I'd be very interested in your comments.

jangy

It is a bit simplified to say all, but yes the MB suspensions do increase camber as they compress. BMWs and Pcars run the Mac struts that go straight up and down. Apples and oranges.

As a temporary fix, you can try the renntech bushings. I would never pay that cash for them, but it is a fix for the alignment but I've had really bad experiences with "faking" suspension angles with offset screws and bushings. Things just start to wear badly (suspension parts), since the load gets shifted. I'd rather keep paying for tires until I get the real fix in place. Keep in mind that our cars do not come with adjustable arms. an alignment can tell you where the car is, but there is little they can do to alter it without work. Crash bolts give you between 1/2 to 1 degree. I tried those for a bit, since they were cheap and they make a difference. Again, not the real fix.

As far as the drag racing stance, there was a misnomer. The car is NOT more stable at heights, but stability isn't a real issue in a drag race. Traction is. By raising the car, you are giving the suspension room to compress and absorb the energy that is being blasted to the wheels. That ability to compress keeps the traction maximized. If the car had no travel, it would be a wound top and would start bouning down the track.

Chromikey, w may should talk. I wonder if your arms are different than mine?

MRAMG1

You are right my friend, ALL SALA "Short upper arm, Long lower arm" independant rear suspension do. Like ours. Sorry for the over simplafication, okay I also flunked spelling. WOW you guys are tuff.

See yeah

PS: BMW's also suffer from this, at least the M3's, and the 5's. I don't have any knowldege on the others. It's NOT the strut that cause this issue, unless it is bolted directly to the spindle, but rather geometry of the two different length arms. The shorter arm makes a tigher radius under compression, causing it to pull the tire in, hence more negative camber.