Drag Racing How-To
01-12-2009, 06:06 AM
#76
DRAG RACING HOW-TO
Since many have not raced their cars before, I thought it would be appropriate to compile a very basic Drag Racing How-To.
* Clothing: You must wear long pants, a sleeved shirt and close-toed shoes (no sandals.)
* Helmet: If you run 13.99 or quicker, or run a convertible, it’s mandatory. Even if you don’t, it’s good form. For other than private rentals, you will be required to have a helmet with Snell 2000 ratings or newer.
* Car Prep: It's a good idea to remove all tools, mats, loose items and change from your car, as these items can cause injury in case of an accident. Removal of the spare or other items is optional. The car should be in good working order, with NO leaking fluids.
* Tech: You will be given a Tech Card to fill out, and your car inspected for conformity to NHRA regs for your class. You will be assigned a class and a lane. Pay attention to your lane designation and line up in that lane every time, unless directed otherwise by an official.
WHAT TO EXPECT
When you get to the front of the line, you should have your seatbelt and helmet on, radio and A/C off, and your windows closed. Pay close attention to the track official and only pull up when they direct you to do so. The official will also point to your designated lane.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
If you are going to do a burnout, the official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward into the staging beams.
STAGING
At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small double yellow bulbs. The first set is called the PRE-STAGE lights, the second called the STAGE lights. As you pull forward slowly, the first set illuminates. It’s courteous to let your opponent pre-stage before you pull forward to illuminate the second set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down.
THE TREE
After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow (amber) lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence YELLOW-YELLOW-YELLOW-GREEN, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. While your Elapsed Time is measured independently from your Reaction Time, it does come into play when Bracket Racing.
If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified.
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
THE RUN
Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There will be several turn-offs at the end of the track, so don’t worry about making the first or second one.
Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents.
On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the TIMING BOOTH. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.
THE UNTHINKABLE
If you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, PULL OVER as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
BRACKET RACING
Bracket or ET racing is a great way to have dissimilar cars race in an even, fair manner. One basically predicts what the car will run, and the driver who runs closest to the predicted time without going faster (breaking out) is the winner. A 17-second car can compete against, and possibly beat a 10-second car this way.
You start by selecting a time your car will run, called your Dial-In. This time is written on your car, and can be changed in-between rounds. When two cars are competing, the dial-ins are subtracted, and the slower car gets this much of a head start. The theory is that if both cars have the same reaction time and run exactly what they predicted, they will cross the finish at exactly the same time. In reality, this never happens, and there is a winner to each race. Reaction times differ, and your car may run a bit faster or slower than predicted.
Why not just dial-in at 20 seconds, get a big head start and win? Because if you run quicker than your dial-in, you LOSE! This is called Breaking Out. If you guess much quicker than your car can run, you won’t be able to run fast enough, allowing your opponent to easily beat you.
If both cars break out, the car that breaks out the least wins.
Because of this, there could be an instance where you would hit the brakes to win-if you have a decent lead over the other guy; feel free to hit the brakes before the finish line to avoid a break-out.
HAVE FUN
If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
.
.
.
Since many have not raced their cars before, I thought it would be appropriate to compile a very basic Drag Racing How-To.
* Clothing: You must wear long pants, a sleeved shirt and close-toed shoes (no sandals.)
* Helmet: If you run 13.99 or quicker, or run a convertible, it’s mandatory. Even if you don’t, it’s good form. For other than private rentals, you will be required to have a helmet with Snell 2000 ratings or newer.
* Car Prep: It's a good idea to remove all tools, mats, loose items and change from your car, as these items can cause injury in case of an accident. Removal of the spare or other items is optional. The car should be in good working order, with NO leaking fluids.
* Tech: You will be given a Tech Card to fill out, and your car inspected for conformity to NHRA regs for your class. You will be assigned a class and a lane. Pay attention to your lane designation and line up in that lane every time, unless directed otherwise by an official.
WHAT TO EXPECT
When you get to the front of the line, you should have your seatbelt and helmet on, radio and A/C off, and your windows closed. Pay close attention to the track official and only pull up when they direct you to do so. The official will also point to your designated lane.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
If you are going to do a burnout, the official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward into the staging beams.
STAGING
At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small double yellow bulbs. The first set is called the PRE-STAGE lights, the second called the STAGE lights. As you pull forward slowly, the first set illuminates. It’s courteous to let your opponent pre-stage before you pull forward to illuminate the second set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down.
THE TREE
After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow (amber) lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence YELLOW-YELLOW-YELLOW-GREEN, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. While your Elapsed Time is measured independently from your Reaction Time, it does come into play when Bracket Racing.
If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified.
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
THE RUN
Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There will be several turn-offs at the end of the track, so don’t worry about making the first or second one.
Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents.
On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the TIMING BOOTH. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.
THE UNTHINKABLE
If you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, PULL OVER as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
BRACKET RACING
Bracket or ET racing is a great way to have dissimilar cars race in an even, fair manner. One basically predicts what the car will run, and the driver who runs closest to the predicted time without going faster (breaking out) is the winner. A 17-second car can compete against, and possibly beat a 10-second car this way.
You start by selecting a time your car will run, called your Dial-In. This time is written on your car, and can be changed in-between rounds. When two cars are competing, the dial-ins are subtracted, and the slower car gets this much of a head start. The theory is that if both cars have the same reaction time and run exactly what they predicted, they will cross the finish at exactly the same time. In reality, this never happens, and there is a winner to each race. Reaction times differ, and your car may run a bit faster or slower than predicted.
Why not just dial-in at 20 seconds, get a big head start and win? Because if you run quicker than your dial-in, you LOSE! This is called Breaking Out. If you guess much quicker than your car can run, you won’t be able to run fast enough, allowing your opponent to easily beat you.
If both cars break out, the car that breaks out the least wins.
Because of this, there could be an instance where you would hit the brakes to win-if you have a decent lead over the other guy; feel free to hit the brakes before the finish line to avoid a break-out.
HAVE FUN
If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
.
.
.
01-12-2009, 11:58 AM
#77
MBWorld Fanatic!
This really depends on many factors.
1. Track surface
2 tire condition
ESP has aided many and hurt many, best way to determine what is best is to test on a track
Do a run with it on in d/s
cool the cart back down
Do a run with it off in d/s
You can pilot the car well in either mode but both have weak points.
ESP will cause the car to restrict power to the wheel it detects slipping , it will definately hinder the car unless the launch and run is clean.
Esp off obviously the wheels spin and spin and spin... On most Mercedes models ESP off using the button is not really "off" to disengage ESP you must run in DYNO mode or pull the ESP fuse.
Hope this helps
Bottom line it is a choice based on your ewxperience in your car.
03-04-2009, 03:10 PM
#79
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A4, M3, 996, E55
Gents,
This thread is a great refresher since I havn't drag raced anything in >10 years.
I have a question on most effective method of cooling the car between runs. In the old days guys would break out bags of ice to insure intake charge temps were as low as possible. Has anyone experimented with this on their E55's?
Andy
This thread is a great refresher since I havn't drag raced anything in >10 years.
I have a question on most effective method of cooling the car between runs. In the old days guys would break out bags of ice to insure intake charge temps were as low as possible. Has anyone experimented with this on their E55's?
Andy
03-04-2009, 03:23 PM
#80
Out Of Control!!
Gents,
This thread is a great refresher since I havn't drag raced anything in >10 years.
I have a question on most effective method of cooling the car between runs. In the old days guys would break out bags of ice to insure intake charge temps were as low as possible. Has anyone experimented with this on their E55's?
Andy
This thread is a great refresher since I havn't drag raced anything in >10 years.
I have a question on most effective method of cooling the car between runs. In the old days guys would break out bags of ice to insure intake charge temps were as low as possible. Has anyone experimented with this on their E55's?
Andy
03-04-2009, 10:36 PM
#81
MBWorld Fanatic!
Gents,
This thread is a great refresher since I havn't drag raced anything in >10 years.
I have a question on most effective method of cooling the car between runs. In the old days guys would break out bags of ice to insure intake charge temps were as low as possible. Has anyone experimented with this on their E55's?
Andy
This thread is a great refresher since I havn't drag raced anything in >10 years.
I have a question on most effective method of cooling the car between runs. In the old days guys would break out bags of ice to insure intake charge temps were as low as possible. Has anyone experimented with this on their E55's?
Andy
I switched to dry ice to prevent water dripping onto the track and tires. If you use ice just make certain it is not going to druip on the track , it tends to pool up and when you hammer off the line it spills and , well you do it more than once you r d o n e racing
03-06-2009, 12:07 PM
#82
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W211 E55
As juicee63 said, water on the track is a dangerous no-no.
04-19-2009, 12:22 PM
#84
Registered User
traction control /dyno mode
you need to put the car in dyno mode to disable the tration . turn the key on the on position make sure radio is off , set display to oil temp or speedo i think press reset plunger on speedo cluster 3 times and it will direct you to
putting the car to comfort mode and raising the suspension is the way to go , will help weight transfer to rear upon acceleration
putting the car to comfort mode and raising the suspension is the way to go , will help weight transfer to rear upon acceleration
05-11-2009, 03:46 PM
#86
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W211 E55
06-06-2009, 08:24 PM
#88
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sl65
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
When it is time tostart do we step on the gas or what do you suggest, I know how to launch my stick 700 HP Porsche but this will be a new thing for me.... any suggestions from experienced folks would help
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
When it is time tostart do we step on the gas or what do you suggest, I know how to launch my stick 700 HP Porsche but this will be a new thing for me.... any suggestions from experienced folks would help
09-03-2009, 06:16 PM
#90
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2006 E55 AMG
Other members certainly have more experince than I do - but I'm not sure you can "outshift" the computer.
In regards to TC - I saw an interesting accident a few weeks ago. I was at an 1/8th mile track running behind a modded vette (he ran 98mph on previous run). Just before the 1/8th mark the car hit a new gear which literally sent him sideways into the concrete barrier. No traction control and running street tires. I bet he wished he had TC. If running without TC be prepared to save a few runs or check your ego and let off.
In regards to TC - I saw an interesting accident a few weeks ago. I was at an 1/8th mile track running behind a modded vette (he ran 98mph on previous run). Just before the 1/8th mark the car hit a new gear which literally sent him sideways into the concrete barrier. No traction control and running street tires. I bet he wished he had TC. If running without TC be prepared to save a few runs or check your ego and let off.
09-23-2009, 08:20 PM
#91
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S55
A couple of other things I didn't see mentioned.
All NHRA and professionally run tracks will require every car and driver to "tech in". Each car will get a tech card to fill out basic information about the car and driver. The tech will only tech you in if you meet all of safety requirements.
Helmet, Jacket (for 11.99 & faster) etc for the driver and all of the car requirements for the appropriate time category.
A helpful hint for driving around the water... most of the guys that spray the water down on the track stand in between the lanes. This makes the innermost sides of the waterbox area the the driest as they concentrate the water to the centers of the lanes. Say you are in the left lane as you pull up you would head as far right as possible going onto the staging area. As you get around the box, you would center the car, and back into the water box to start the burnout.
Also tracks have 2 kinds of lights on the "christmas tree", a street tree and a pro tree. The pro tree goes from amber to green as soon as both cars are staged, whereas the street tree has the amber lights that count down to the green. Some tracks will let you request which lights you want on test and tune or street nights. Also some tracks will let you request your times not to be displayed on the boards. This is great for anyone who is nervous or new to the track.. Also helpful if you are racing for $$ and you don't want potential races to know your times...
All NHRA and professionally run tracks will require every car and driver to "tech in". Each car will get a tech card to fill out basic information about the car and driver. The tech will only tech you in if you meet all of safety requirements.
Helmet, Jacket (for 11.99 & faster) etc for the driver and all of the car requirements for the appropriate time category.
A helpful hint for driving around the water... most of the guys that spray the water down on the track stand in between the lanes. This makes the innermost sides of the waterbox area the the driest as they concentrate the water to the centers of the lanes. Say you are in the left lane as you pull up you would head as far right as possible going onto the staging area. As you get around the box, you would center the car, and back into the water box to start the burnout.
Also tracks have 2 kinds of lights on the "christmas tree", a street tree and a pro tree. The pro tree goes from amber to green as soon as both cars are staged, whereas the street tree has the amber lights that count down to the green. Some tracks will let you request which lights you want on test and tune or street nights. Also some tracks will let you request your times not to be displayed on the boards. This is great for anyone who is nervous or new to the track.. Also helpful if you are racing for $$ and you don't want potential races to know your times...
10-31-2009, 01:43 AM
#92
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2005 E55 AMG
Pics of a decent launch,I was on drag radials that were close to 2" taller than the stock spec tire so it took some gear away.
It ran 12.1*@113 with a 1.74 60 ftthis way
I ran it on stock tires yesterday and went 12.21@116.6 with a 1.98 60ft
This is a pic on the drag radials
It ran 12.1*@113 with a 1.74 60 ftthis way
I ran it on stock tires yesterday and went 12.21@116.6 with a 1.98 60ft
This is a pic on the drag radials
10-31-2009, 03:22 AM
#93
MBWorld Fanatic!
Pics of a decent launch,I was on drag radials that were close to 2" taller than the stock spec tire so it took some gear away.
It ran 12.1*@113 with a 1.74 60 ftthis way
I ran it on stock tires yesterday and went 12.21@116.6 with a 1.98 60ft
This is a pic on the drag radials
It ran 12.1*@113 with a 1.74 60 ftthis way
I ran it on stock tires yesterday and went 12.21@116.6 with a 1.98 60ft
This is a pic on the drag radials
On your street tire you should be able to attain low 1.8x. Nice times and traps and this picture demonstrates a nice launch.
Great!
10-31-2009, 11:08 AM
#94
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2005 E55 AMG
As far as the street tires I was at the track tuning a few race cars and just went out and threw down that pass,need a little more practice launching on street tires
05-31-2010, 08:27 PM
#95
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e55
Im bumping this:
I have found I lose 1-2 mph starting raised, becasue the cars hesitates when it lowers itself when it gets up to speed.
I cut slightly better 60s with it raised, but dont like losing the mph.
So, what say ye about raising just the rear suspension to have it racked forward. As in, the front stays lowered, the rear is back at oem height. Should this yield good results in 60 ft terms.
My best 60 thus far is a 1.77 on 16" drag radials for the record
I have found I lose 1-2 mph starting raised, becasue the cars hesitates when it lowers itself when it gets up to speed.
I cut slightly better 60s with it raised, but dont like losing the mph.
So, what say ye about raising just the rear suspension to have it racked forward. As in, the front stays lowered, the rear is back at oem height. Should this yield good results in 60 ft terms.
My best 60 thus far is a 1.77 on 16" drag radials for the record
06-05-2010, 12:25 PM
#97
MBWorld Fanatic!
Im bumping this:
I have found I lose 1-2 mph starting raised, becasue the cars hesitates when it lowers itself when it gets up to speed.
I cut slightly better 60s with it raised, but dont like losing the mph.
So, what say ye about raising just the rear suspension to have it racked forward. As in, the front stays lowered, the rear is back at oem height. Should this yield good results in 60 ft terms.
My best 60 thus far is a 1.77 on 16" drag radials for the record
I have found I lose 1-2 mph starting raised, becasue the cars hesitates when it lowers itself when it gets up to speed.
I cut slightly better 60s with it raised, but dont like losing the mph.
So, what say ye about raising just the rear suspension to have it racked forward. As in, the front stays lowered, the rear is back at oem height. Should this yield good results in 60 ft terms.
My best 60 thus far is a 1.77 on 16" drag radials for the record
60 ft times in most airmatic cars suffer because of too much energy being consumed during the weight transfer (energy from front to rear).
Less room to move in the suspension provides more enrgy to get the car rolling once rolling you lose mph (raised ) because now the car must squat back down as it reaches higher speed.
Every car has slightly different physics even each individual car will launch differently each time based on weight and energy distribution.
I achieved a 1.469 on bias ply tires with a perfect weight transfer and tempered throttle application. Couple others have also hit 1.4x with superior hp and lighter cars. If the weight is sufficient over the rear to accept the energy transfer and roll the car out efficiently you will see sub 1.6 in a benz.
My three best are 1.469, 1.56, 1.59, however my car averages 1.8 as most of the time i miss the sweet spot.
Consider I ran a 12.007 in 86 degrees and a 12.008 in 54 degrees. Same track drastically different 60 fts.
12-10-2010, 12:13 PM
#100
MBWorld Fanatic!
DRAG RACING HOW-TO
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
.
.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
.
.
60' - 1.668
