Drag Racing How-To
03-23-2008, 01:11 AM
#1
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W211 E55
Drag Racing How-To
DRAG RACING HOW-TO
Since many have not raced their cars before, I thought it would be appropriate to compile a very basic Drag Racing How-To.
* Clothing: You must wear long pants, a sleeved shirt and close-toed shoes (no sandals.)
* Helmet: If you run 13.99 or quicker, or run a convertible, it’s mandatory. Even if you don’t, it’s good form. For other than private rentals, you will be required to have a helmet with Snell 2000 ratings or newer.
* Car Prep: It's a good idea to remove all tools, mats, loose items and change from your car, as these items can cause injury in case of an accident. Removal of the spare or other items is optional. The car should be in good working order, with NO leaking fluids.
* Tech: You will be given a Tech Card to fill out, and your car inspected for conformity to NHRA regs for your class. You will be assigned a class and a lane. Pay attention to your lane designation and line up in that lane every time, unless directed otherwise by an official.
WHAT TO EXPECT
When you get to the front of the line, you should have your seatbelt and helmet on, radio and A/C off, and your windows closed. Pay close attention to the track official and only pull up when they direct you to do so. The official will also point to your designated lane.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
If you are going to do a burnout, the official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward into the staging beams.
STAGING
At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small double yellow bulbs. The first set is called the PRE-STAGE lights, the second called the STAGE lights. As you pull forward slowly, the first set illuminates. It’s courteous to let your opponent pre-stage before you pull forward to illuminate the second set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down.
THE TREE
After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow (amber) lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence YELLOW-YELLOW-YELLOW-GREEN, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. While your Elapsed Time is measured independently from your Reaction Time, it does come into play when Bracket Racing.
If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified.
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
THE RUN
Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There will be several turn-offs at the end of the track, so don’t worry about making the first or second one.
Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents.
On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the TIMING BOOTH. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.
THE UNTHINKABLE
If you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, PULL OVER as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
BRACKET RACING
Bracket or ET racing is a great way to have dissimilar cars race in an even, fair manner. One basically predicts what the car will run, and the driver who runs closest to the predicted time without going faster (breaking out) is the winner. A 17-second car can compete against, and possibly beat a 10-second car this way.
You start by selecting a time your car will run, called your Dial-In. This time is written on your car, and can be changed in-between rounds. When two cars are competing, the dial-ins are subtracted, and the slower car gets this much of a head start. The theory is that if both cars have the same reaction time and run exactly what they predicted, they will cross the finish at exactly the same time. In reality, this never happens, and there is a winner to each race. Reaction times differ, and your car may run a bit faster or slower than predicted.
Why not just dial-in at 20 seconds, get a big head start and win? Because if you run quicker than your dial-in, you LOSE! This is called Breaking Out. If you guess much quicker than your car can run, you won’t be able to run fast enough, allowing your opponent to easily beat you.
If both cars break out, the car that breaks out the least wins.
Because of this, there could be an instance where you would hit the brakes to win-if you have a decent lead over the other guy; feel free to hit the brakes before the finish line to avoid a break-out.
HAVE FUN
If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
.
.
.
Since many have not raced their cars before, I thought it would be appropriate to compile a very basic Drag Racing How-To.
* Clothing: You must wear long pants, a sleeved shirt and close-toed shoes (no sandals.)
* Helmet: If you run 13.99 or quicker, or run a convertible, it’s mandatory. Even if you don’t, it’s good form. For other than private rentals, you will be required to have a helmet with Snell 2000 ratings or newer.
* Car Prep: It's a good idea to remove all tools, mats, loose items and change from your car, as these items can cause injury in case of an accident. Removal of the spare or other items is optional. The car should be in good working order, with NO leaking fluids.
* Tech: You will be given a Tech Card to fill out, and your car inspected for conformity to NHRA regs for your class. You will be assigned a class and a lane. Pay attention to your lane designation and line up in that lane every time, unless directed otherwise by an official.
WHAT TO EXPECT
When you get to the front of the line, you should have your seatbelt and helmet on, radio and A/C off, and your windows closed. Pay close attention to the track official and only pull up when they direct you to do so. The official will also point to your designated lane.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
If you are going to do a burnout, the official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward into the staging beams.
STAGING
At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small double yellow bulbs. The first set is called the PRE-STAGE lights, the second called the STAGE lights. As you pull forward slowly, the first set illuminates. It’s courteous to let your opponent pre-stage before you pull forward to illuminate the second set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down.
THE TREE
After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow (amber) lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence YELLOW-YELLOW-YELLOW-GREEN, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. While your Elapsed Time is measured independently from your Reaction Time, it does come into play when Bracket Racing.
If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified.
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
THE RUN
Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There will be several turn-offs at the end of the track, so don’t worry about making the first or second one.
Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents.
On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the TIMING BOOTH. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.
THE UNTHINKABLE
If you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, PULL OVER as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
BRACKET RACING
Bracket or ET racing is a great way to have dissimilar cars race in an even, fair manner. One basically predicts what the car will run, and the driver who runs closest to the predicted time without going faster (breaking out) is the winner. A 17-second car can compete against, and possibly beat a 10-second car this way.
You start by selecting a time your car will run, called your Dial-In. This time is written on your car, and can be changed in-between rounds. When two cars are competing, the dial-ins are subtracted, and the slower car gets this much of a head start. The theory is that if both cars have the same reaction time and run exactly what they predicted, they will cross the finish at exactly the same time. In reality, this never happens, and there is a winner to each race. Reaction times differ, and your car may run a bit faster or slower than predicted.
Why not just dial-in at 20 seconds, get a big head start and win? Because if you run quicker than your dial-in, you LOSE! This is called Breaking Out. If you guess much quicker than your car can run, you won’t be able to run fast enough, allowing your opponent to easily beat you.
If both cars break out, the car that breaks out the least wins.
Because of this, there could be an instance where you would hit the brakes to win-if you have a decent lead over the other guy; feel free to hit the brakes before the finish line to avoid a break-out.
HAVE FUN
If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
.
.
.
Last edited by ChicagoX; 03-23-2008 at 01:41 PM. Reason: spelling
03-23-2008, 12:38 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Great write up. I've added one more thing. Don't forget this one, bring a lot of friends LOL, to help push your car up through the staging lines (they can get long at non-private events) so you don't have to keep starting your car. Cooler engines will prevail. Pop or open you hood in line. However if the lines are short enough, keep the engine running, it will actaully stay cooler than if you shut down.
Like ChicagoX said, always wear a helmet, even if you are running 16's. I always wear driving boots, gloves and a helmet, regardless of track rules.
Like ChicagoX said, always wear a helmet, even if you are running 16's. I always wear driving boots, gloves and a helmet, regardless of track rules.
03-23-2008, 03:35 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
DRAG RACING HOW-TO
Since many have not raced their cars before, I thought it would be appropriate to compile a very basic Drag Racing How-To.
* Clothing: You must wear long pants, a sleeved shirt and close-toed shoes (no sandals.)
* Helmet: If you run 13.99 or quicker, or run a convertible, it’s mandatory. Even if you don’t, it’s good form. For other than private rentals, you will be required to have a helmet with Snell 2000 ratings or newer.
* Car Prep: It's a good idea to remove all tools, mats, loose items and change from your car, as these items can cause injury in case of an accident. Removal of the spare or other items is optional. The car should be in good working order, with NO leaking fluids.
* Tech: You will be given a Tech Card to fill out, and your car inspected for conformity to NHRA regs for your class. You will be assigned a class and a lane. Pay attention to your lane designation and line up in that lane every time, unless directed otherwise by an official.
WHAT TO EXPECT
When you get to the front of the line, you should have your seatbelt and helmet on, radio and A/C off, and your windows closed. Pay close attention to the track official and only pull up when they direct you to do so. The official will also point to your designated lane.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
If you are going to do a burnout, the official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward into the staging beams.
STAGING
At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small double yellow bulbs. The first set is called the PRE-STAGE lights, the second called the STAGE lights. As you pull forward slowly, the first set illuminates. It’s courteous to let your opponent pre-stage before you pull forward to illuminate the second set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down.
THE TREE
After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow (amber) lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence YELLOW-YELLOW-YELLOW-GREEN, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. While your Elapsed Time is measured independently from your Reaction Time, it does come into play when Bracket Racing.
If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified.
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
THE RUN
Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There will be several turn-offs at the end of the track, so don’t worry about making the first or second one.
Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents.
On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the TIMING BOOTH. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.
THE UNTHINKABLE
If you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, PULL OVER as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
BRACKET RACING
Bracket or ET racing is a great way to have dissimilar cars race in an even, fair manner. One basically predicts what the car will run, and the driver who runs closest to the predicted time without going faster (breaking out) is the winner. A 17-second car can compete against, and possibly beat a 10-second car this way.
You start by selecting a time your car will run, called your Dial-In. This time is written on your car, and can be changed in-between rounds. When two cars are competing, the dial-ins are subtracted, and the slower car gets this much of a head start. The theory is that if both cars have the same reaction time and run exactly what they predicted, they will cross the finish at exactly the same time. In reality, this never happens, and there is a winner to each race. Reaction times differ, and your car may run a bit faster or slower than predicted.
Why not just dial-in at 20 seconds, get a big head start and win? Because if you run quicker than your dial-in, you LOSE! This is called Breaking Out. If you guess much quicker than your car can run, you won’t be able to run fast enough, allowing your opponent to easily beat you.
If both cars break out, the car that breaks out the least wins.
Because of this, there could be an instance where you would hit the brakes to win-if you have a decent lead over the other guy; feel free to hit the brakes before the finish line to avoid a break-out.
HAVE FUN
If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
.
.
.
Since many have not raced their cars before, I thought it would be appropriate to compile a very basic Drag Racing How-To.
* Clothing: You must wear long pants, a sleeved shirt and close-toed shoes (no sandals.)
* Helmet: If you run 13.99 or quicker, or run a convertible, it’s mandatory. Even if you don’t, it’s good form. For other than private rentals, you will be required to have a helmet with Snell 2000 ratings or newer.
* Car Prep: It's a good idea to remove all tools, mats, loose items and change from your car, as these items can cause injury in case of an accident. Removal of the spare or other items is optional. The car should be in good working order, with NO leaking fluids.
* Tech: You will be given a Tech Card to fill out, and your car inspected for conformity to NHRA regs for your class. You will be assigned a class and a lane. Pay attention to your lane designation and line up in that lane every time, unless directed otherwise by an official.
WHAT TO EXPECT
When you get to the front of the line, you should have your seatbelt and helmet on, radio and A/C off, and your windows closed. Pay close attention to the track official and only pull up when they direct you to do so. The official will also point to your designated lane.
Directly in front of you is the WATER BOX, or burnout box. This is basically a depression in the pavement filled with water by the track official. If you are running street tires, DRIVE AROUND IT !!! The treads of most street tires will hold enough water to wet down the track, causing traction issues.
If you are going to do a burnout, the official will give you the signal when it’s the right time by pointing a finger at you and making a circular motion. Pull forward slightly, out of the box, then depress the brake. Hold it in, then step on the gas at the same time. Your RPMs should come up as the tires start to spin. Hold the gas and brake together until the tires start to smoke a bit, then release the brake. Your car will slowly move forward, then the tires will grab suddenly. Immediately back off the throttle and roll forward into the staging beams.
STAGING
At the top of the tree, there are two sets of small double yellow bulbs. The first set is called the PRE-STAGE lights, the second called the STAGE lights. As you pull forward slowly, the first set illuminates. It’s courteous to let your opponent pre-stage before you pull forward to illuminate the second set. Once both cars have fully staged, the starter will let the lights come down.
THE TREE
After both cars stage, the light on the tree will come down. You will see 3 yellow (amber) lights that illuminate in half-second intervals, with a green at the end. With the sequence YELLOW-YELLOW-YELLOW-GREEN, you want to leave on the last yellow for a good Reaction Time. While your Elapsed Time is measured independently from your Reaction Time, it does come into play when Bracket Racing.
If you see a red light, you left before the green and are disqualified.
THE LAUNCH
The hardest part of the race is the first 60 feet. Practice is the only way to improve this time, but here’s what works for me.
Settings: Suspension in COMFORT mode and raised, trans in SPORT mode.
After staging, with my foot on the brake, I press lightly on the accelerator to bring the RPMs up to about 1100-1200. This takes the slack out of the drivetrain. On the last yellow, I release the brake and roll into the throttle. Simply slamming on the gas will result in wheelspin and a slower ET. The speed at which you come to full throttle depends on available traction.
THE RUN
Since you’re driving an automatic, just hang on and keep it floored until PAST the finish line. Lots of folks get out of the throttle too early, as it is sometimes hard to tell exactly where the line is from inside the car. There is plenty of braking room at the end, don’t worry.
There will be several turn-offs at the end of the track, so don’t worry about making the first or second one.
Always let the inside car turn off the track first, even if they are the slower car. This is to avoid accidents.
On the return road, before the pits, there is a shack/hut called the TIMING BOOTH. Stop here and pick up your timeslip, but save reading it until you’re back in the pits to avoid traffic jams.
THE UNTHINKABLE
If you hear a boom, pop, slam or any other strange noise coming from your car, PULL OVER as quickly as safety allows. The less of the track that gets covered by fluids, the better for everyone. The track will send out the emergency truck to make sure you are OK and provide a tow if necessary.
BRACKET RACING
Bracket or ET racing is a great way to have dissimilar cars race in an even, fair manner. One basically predicts what the car will run, and the driver who runs closest to the predicted time without going faster (breaking out) is the winner. A 17-second car can compete against, and possibly beat a 10-second car this way.
You start by selecting a time your car will run, called your Dial-In. This time is written on your car, and can be changed in-between rounds. When two cars are competing, the dial-ins are subtracted, and the slower car gets this much of a head start. The theory is that if both cars have the same reaction time and run exactly what they predicted, they will cross the finish at exactly the same time. In reality, this never happens, and there is a winner to each race. Reaction times differ, and your car may run a bit faster or slower than predicted.
Why not just dial-in at 20 seconds, get a big head start and win? Because if you run quicker than your dial-in, you LOSE! This is called Breaking Out. If you guess much quicker than your car can run, you won’t be able to run fast enough, allowing your opponent to easily beat you.
If both cars break out, the car that breaks out the least wins.
Because of this, there could be an instance where you would hit the brakes to win-if you have a decent lead over the other guy; feel free to hit the brakes before the finish line to avoid a break-out.
HAVE FUN
If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
.
.
.
Do things in advance to prevent panic at the front of the staging lane. Do not wait till you are pulling up to the water box to turn the ac off, radio , windows, change transmission.. Do things in advance so you can focus on the burn out and launch.
Heating the tires in M1 works best as the car will not shift up, keep the burnout to 5-8 seconds and shorter if you are hot lapping.
Drive your front tires around the water and back into the box. Our deep treaded fat fronts will drag water right onto the path of your rear's.
We throw up track times as if it is something you can go to Wal Mart and purchase, it is a difficult , dangerous sport. Never stay on throttle if you are going sideways and do not try and correct the car as if you were on the street. Get off throttle and glide the rest off the way. If you are in the right lane pull over to the right if there is a problem, left move left.
Never take the turn out road to fast and always yeild to the car on your right , even if you crush him allow him or her to exit if the return road is to the right.
Be safe, have fun and take notes on all your runs if you are changing settings and trying new things. It will be helpful in eliminating what works and what does not.
We should make this a sticky so anyone with drag racing related concerns or questions rather than post a new thread could come here. What do you think Wayne?
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03-23-2008, 04:17 PM
#11
Former Vendor of MBWorld
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W211 E55
I'm glad you guys like the How-To.
Last edited by ChicagoX; 03-23-2008 at 05:37 PM. Reason: removed sig pic....what's it to ya?
03-23-2008, 05:36 PM
#12
Former Vendor of MBWorld
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W211 E55
Glossary
GLOSSARY of drag racing terms
(thanks, NHRA)
Bracket Racing: Type of handicap racing where the driver’s skills are the key factor in winning. The driver predicts the time his/her car will run, and the closest without breaking out is the winner.
Breakout: Used only in handicap racing, “breakout” refers to a contestant running quicker than he or she “dialed” his or her vehicle (predicted how quick it would run). Unless the opponent commits a more serious foul (e.g., red-lights, crosses the centerline, or fails a post-race inspection), the driver who breaks out loses. If both drivers break out, the one who runs closest to his or her dial is the winner.
Burnout: spinning the rear tires in water to heat and clean them prior to a run for better traction.
Christmas Tree: Also called the Tree, it is the noticeable electronic starting device between the lanes on the starting line. It displays a calibrated-light countdown for each driver.
Dial-In: This is the time a driver predicts their car will run in a Bracket Race.
Deep stage: to roll a few inches farther into the beams after staging, which causes the pre-stage lights to go out. In that position, a driver is closer to the finish line but dangerously close to a foul start.
Elapsed time: the time it takes a vehicle to travel from the starting line to the finish line. Also called e.t.
Eliminations: After qualifying, vehicles race two at a time, resulting in one winner from each pair. Winners continue in tournament-style competition until one remains.
Foul start: indicated by a red light on the Christmas Tree when a car has left the starting line before the green light, or starting signal. Also known as a Red Light.
Full Tree: used in Competition, Super Stock, and Stock, for which a handicap starting system is used to equalize competition. The three amber bulbs on the Christmas Tree flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed five-tenths later by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a full Tree is now .000.
Holeshot: when a driver reacts quicker to the Christmas Tree to win a race against an opponent with a quicker e.t.
Index: the expected performance for vehicles in a class as assigned by NHRA. It allows various classes of cars in the same category to race together competitively.
Interval timers: part of a secondary timing system that records elapsed times, primarily for the racers’ benefit, at 60, 330, 660, and 1,000 feet.
Pre-stage: to position the front wheels about seven inches behind the starting line so the small yellow lights atop that driver’s side of the Christmas Tree are glowing. The next step is to stage and be ready to race.
Pro Tree: used in Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Stock Motorcycle, Top Alcohol Dragster, Top Alcohol Funny Car, Super Comp, Super Gas, and Super Street, which feature heads-up competition. All three large amber lights on the Christmas Tree flash simultaneously, followed four-tenths of a second later by the green starting light.
Reaction time: the time it takes a driver to react to the green starting light on the Christmas Tree, measured in thousandths of a second. The reaction-time counter begins when the last amber light flashes on the Tree and stops when the vehicle clears the stage beam.
Sixty-foot time: the time it takes a vehicle to cover the first 60 feet of the racetrack. It is the most accurate measure of the launch from the starting line and in most cases determines how quick the rest of the run will be.
Speed trap: the final 66 feet to the finish line where speed is recorded.
Stage: to position the front wheels right on the starting line so the small yellow lights below the pre-stage lights are glowing. Once both drivers are staged, the calibrated countdown (see Christmas Tree) may begin.
Weight transfer: critical to traction. Vehicles are set up to provide a desired weight transfer to the rear wheels. Upon acceleration, the front wheels lift and the weight shifts to the rear wheels, which makes them less likely to spin.
Wheelie bar(s): used to prevent excessive front-wheel lift. Juicee63 has these on order for his CLS63.
(thanks, NHRA
)Bracket Racing: Type of handicap racing where the driver’s skills are the key factor in winning. The driver predicts the time his/her car will run, and the closest without breaking out is the winner.
Breakout: Used only in handicap racing, “breakout” refers to a contestant running quicker than he or she “dialed” his or her vehicle (predicted how quick it would run). Unless the opponent commits a more serious foul (e.g., red-lights, crosses the centerline, or fails a post-race inspection), the driver who breaks out loses. If both drivers break out, the one who runs closest to his or her dial is the winner.
Burnout: spinning the rear tires in water to heat and clean them prior to a run for better traction.
Christmas Tree: Also called the Tree, it is the noticeable electronic starting device between the lanes on the starting line. It displays a calibrated-light countdown for each driver.
Dial-In: This is the time a driver predicts their car will run in a Bracket Race.
Deep stage: to roll a few inches farther into the beams after staging, which causes the pre-stage lights to go out. In that position, a driver is closer to the finish line but dangerously close to a foul start.
Elapsed time: the time it takes a vehicle to travel from the starting line to the finish line. Also called e.t.
Eliminations: After qualifying, vehicles race two at a time, resulting in one winner from each pair. Winners continue in tournament-style competition until one remains.
Foul start: indicated by a red light on the Christmas Tree when a car has left the starting line before the green light, or starting signal. Also known as a Red Light.
Full Tree: used in Competition, Super Stock, and Stock, for which a handicap starting system is used to equalize competition. The three amber bulbs on the Christmas Tree flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed five-tenths later by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a full Tree is now .000.
Holeshot: when a driver reacts quicker to the Christmas Tree to win a race against an opponent with a quicker e.t.
Index: the expected performance for vehicles in a class as assigned by NHRA. It allows various classes of cars in the same category to race together competitively.
Interval timers: part of a secondary timing system that records elapsed times, primarily for the racers’ benefit, at 60, 330, 660, and 1,000 feet.
Pre-stage: to position the front wheels about seven inches behind the starting line so the small yellow lights atop that driver’s side of the Christmas Tree are glowing. The next step is to stage and be ready to race.
Pro Tree: used in Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Stock Motorcycle, Top Alcohol Dragster, Top Alcohol Funny Car, Super Comp, Super Gas, and Super Street, which feature heads-up competition. All three large amber lights on the Christmas Tree flash simultaneously, followed four-tenths of a second later by the green starting light.
Reaction time: the time it takes a driver to react to the green starting light on the Christmas Tree, measured in thousandths of a second. The reaction-time counter begins when the last amber light flashes on the Tree and stops when the vehicle clears the stage beam.
Sixty-foot time: the time it takes a vehicle to cover the first 60 feet of the racetrack. It is the most accurate measure of the launch from the starting line and in most cases determines how quick the rest of the run will be.
Speed trap: the final 66 feet to the finish line where speed is recorded.
Stage: to position the front wheels right on the starting line so the small yellow lights below the pre-stage lights are glowing. Once both drivers are staged, the calibrated countdown (see Christmas Tree) may begin.
Weight transfer: critical to traction. Vehicles are set up to provide a desired weight transfer to the rear wheels. Upon acceleration, the front wheels lift and the weight shifts to the rear wheels, which makes them less likely to spin.
Wheelie bar(s): used to prevent excessive front-wheel lift. Juicee63 has these on order for his CLS63.
03-23-2008, 05:43 PM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
My car is a slug the first 60, hey buddy got some torque? I need a line lock :-)
Or a stall convertor. Or MCT Launch control!!! H E L P S> O> S>
Thanks for the definitions. I always thought weight transfer was done in the bathroom , oh well.
Or a stall convertor. Or MCT Launch control!!! H E L P S> O> S>
Thanks for the definitions. I always thought weight transfer was done in the bathroom , oh well.
03-24-2008, 01:49 AM
#15
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2005 E55, Renntech Pulley, ECU
Never been to the track, but I have a few questions:
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
2. torque on these cars is SOOO high that the name of the game is almost 100% learning how to NOT loose traction. T/C shuts you down hard, or you'd loose traction and time by having the tires spin. Plus, especially for those of us who run PS2's (and mine ALREADY only last ~6k out back), spinning tires is expensive
Curious as to #1. Is it possible that you'd hook up a little teeny bit better by having the car raised to start with?
Skeeter
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
2. torque on these cars is SOOO high that the name of the game is almost 100% learning how to NOT loose traction. T/C shuts you down hard, or you'd loose traction and time by having the tires spin. Plus, especially for those of us who run PS2's (and mine ALREADY only last ~6k out back), spinning tires is expensive
Curious as to #1. Is it possible that you'd hook up a little teeny bit better by having the car raised to start with?
Skeeter
03-24-2008, 09:20 AM
#16
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2012 JDM
Great write-up ChicagoX, glad I got to learn from the master last summer!! 
Don't forget to turn off traction control before the burn-out!! Seems obvious but in all the excitement, it can get overlooked!
Don't forget to turn off traction control before the burn-out!! Seems obvious but in all the excitement, it can get overlooked!
03-24-2008, 10:03 AM
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04 e55
Thank you very much for the write-up. I am going to try and take mine to the strip this Friday for the first time, if my wife will let me. But, I do have a question. Chicago said to avoid the burnout and Juicee said to do the burnout. Which is best for me? I am bone stock with PS2's.
03-24-2008, 10:47 AM
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Never been to the track, but I have a few questions:
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
2. torque on these cars is SOOO high that the name of the game is almost 100% learning how to NOT loose traction. T/C shuts you down hard, or you'd loose traction and time by having the tires spin. Plus, especially for those of us who run PS2's (and mine ALREADY only last ~6k out back), spinning tires is expensive
Curious as to #1. Is it possible that you'd hook up a little teeny bit better by having the car raised to start with?
Skeeter
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
2. torque on these cars is SOOO high that the name of the game is almost 100% learning how to NOT loose traction. T/C shuts you down hard, or you'd loose traction and time by having the tires spin. Plus, especially for those of us who run PS2's (and mine ALREADY only last ~6k out back), spinning tires is expensive
Curious as to #1. Is it possible that you'd hook up a little teeny bit better by having the car raised to start with?
Skeeter
Wheelspin is not a problem for me if the track is properly prepped with VHT. I run with ESP off and try to roll into the throttle as has been described. My 60' times run 1.75 to 1.85 on street tires.
I've been on tracks that weren't prepped and it's a lot more tricky to launch cleanly. I use the same technique but try to roll into the throttle more slowly.
HTH.
Thank you very much for the write-up. I am going to try and take mine to the strip this Friday for the first time, if my wife will let me. But, I do have a question. Chicago said to avoid the burnout and Juicee said to do the burnout. Which is best for me? I am bone stock with PS2's.
Even with street tires a burn-out will clean any crud off the tires and make certain they are warm for launch rather than cold. You don't need to do as long a burn-out as if you had slicks or drag radials. Just a few seconds should be fine.
At least that's been my experience.
Last edited by jmf003; 03-24-2008 at 10:59 AM.
03-24-2008, 10:59 AM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thank you very much for the write-up. I am going to try and take mine to the strip this Friday for the first time, if my wife will let me. But, I do have a question. Chicago said to avoid the burnout and Juicee said to do the burnout. Which is best for me? I am bone stock with PS2's.
You will have a blast and the PS2 is a soft , decent tire for the drag strip.
03-24-2008, 11:02 AM
#20
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W211 E55
Never been to the track, but I have a few questions:
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
03-24-2008, 11:04 AM
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Never been to the track, but I have a few questions:
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
2. torque on these cars is SOOO high that the name of the game is almost 100% learning how to NOT loose traction. T/C shuts you down hard, or you'd loose traction and time by having the tires spin. Plus, especially for those of us who run PS2's (and mine ALREADY only last ~6k out back), spinning tires is expensive
Curious as to #1. Is it possible that you'd hook up a little teeny bit better by having the car raised to start with?
Skeeter
1. do you think that having the ride level set to 'raised', combined with shocks set to comfort would give a better launch? Theoretically it should have more height to compress back down on the rear wheels and maybe that would get them to hook up sooner.
2. torque on these cars is SOOO high that the name of the game is almost 100% learning how to NOT loose traction. T/C shuts you down hard, or you'd loose traction and time by having the tires spin. Plus, especially for those of us who run PS2's (and mine ALREADY only last ~6k out back), spinning tires is expensive
Curious as to #1. Is it possible that you'd hook up a little teeny bit better by having the car raised to start with?
Skeeter
If you do not have a sport tuned AMG suspension(performance package) raising sems to help at least according to the Author of this "How To". Best thing to do is try it raised a few times then see if you get slower going to a normal ride height.
Have fun , good luck.
03-24-2008, 02:51 PM
#23
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'05 C55(sold)'05 E55(sold)'06 911C4S(sold)'06 ML350 '06 CLS55(sold),buncha slo bikes
If I keep the car lowered when I launch I lose traction,I always set to soft&raise the car.I think I have the 60' record on stock tires,I'd have to go&check Juicee63's thread to be certain
03-24-2008, 04:16 PM
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
1.801 My best on the p zero's was 1.89 we hit 1.84 on the conti's in Mo's car
So the consensus seems to be
1. Raise car
2.Comfort suspension , airmatic on comfort
3. Transmission in d/s
4. power brake to 1100 or off idle(roll into throttle)
With 030 or P30 just let the car sit at normal height
03-24-2008, 05:17 PM
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
I remember one time Juicee and I experimented with raising and lowering the car at the drag strip, but for some reason we kept getting different results than most of the people here on the forum. On our cars (CLS63 030 and E63 P30), everytime we raised the suspension, we got slower 60' times....... and everytime we left it lowered is when we achieved our best 60' times. Very puzzling to me, and have not yet figured out why I was getting these results 
