Okai...after couple months ago, i posted about my check engine lights and the noise from the rear.
My tech checked everything you could possibly name and came down to a conclusion that i need a brand new ECU to get rid of those misfiring codes on the passenger side. I, then, probably need to send it back to Kleemann to get it tuned again. Hopefully Cory could do it for free...Is this common problem?
Also, the noise..... My tech test-drove it and he heard the noise too.. He told me its coming from differential. So told me he would check it and call me..
so i got a phone call and he told me i need Ring and Pinion to take care of this problem.
He also checked my suspension since i complained about the whole car shifting to whichever the side i make turns..as of right now, he told me my rear shocks are leaking..

So i was wondering how much it would cost me to get those three things and install. and where is the best place to order parts from? I would really appreciate if anyone could get me those parts for the best price.
Thanks

 

Also i finally got the misfiring codes from my tech.
1. PO301
2. PO303
3. PO304

So, misfiring on Cylinder 1,3,4

 

Cor is super cool. Just give him a call and explain.

 

............I have been the victim of so many CEL in my cars that I have become the unwilling CEL expert. I very very very much doubt that your problem will be solved by buying another ECU.

........what your tech is trying to say is that those misfire codes are not really true misfire codes. Your ECU is shutting down those cylinders because of a problem it is perceiving. That part is true. The solution he propses is stupid. Instead of finding the oproblem and solving it, he is telling you to get another ECU..........one that will ignore the perceived problem.

.........First of all, you do not need to purchase another ECU in order to accomplish is ill advised objective. You can simply have your ECU flashed back to stock. This will be lack formatting your hard drive on your computer and reinstalling your windows XP. You do not need to buy a new computer to to that.

..........your misfire codes are all on one bank. From your post they appear re-occur. Something is wrong with your car.

..........You need someoone that will actually go from item to item and find the problem by process of elimination. It takes time and it takes dedication. Possible culprits include spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coils, O2 sensors, CATs.

Ted

 

http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic60442.html

Page down to misfire.

 

Thanks Ted.
He actually checked every items that you could possibly name~
Full exhaust setup from headers, spark plugs, plug wires, etc.......
First he thought it was my exhaust that was causing it. So, he took em off and checked everything...
Even the dealer couldn't find the problem and my car was there for 3+ days...
Im so f**kin annoyed that i just wanna dump this piece of s*it.
(Don't get me wrong! I love all 55s~it's just that i've been dealing with this s*it for more than half year and went through lot of problems.First i wasted my time with aftermarket warranty company for most of time, and then, when i finally had a chance to fix it (started at the end of last month) , three dealers couldn't find what's wrong with my car for DAYS...)
i don't think i've ever gotten upset like this in my entire life.
I'll give another two weeks and if it doesn't work out, ill just dump this car and get a new car~

 

How come everytime i call him he seems very cold to me and everybody says he's a cool guy?
I'll try to give him a call tomorrow~

 

good find!
thanks for trying to help me out~
you guys are the best!

 

What's the resistors at the spark plugs?
In the article, it mentions about resistors at the spark plugs, including the ones located below coils?????
also, when my tech calls me today, im gonna tell him to change all the spark plugs and maybe coils (Evosport one~anybody tried?) just to make sure,so i don't have to spend $$$ on ECU

 

The spark plug wire and connector has a resistor in it (6 ohm as I recall). Just have your tech swap one of the coils and wires that is throwing the codes to a cylinder that is not throwing codes, drive it. This is the first real diagnostic to find the fault. If the fault follows the coil and wires then change the wires.
continue....... one change at a time.

We are all on the same page, Don't buy a new ECU.

 

^^^What he said.

I know it's frustrating, J. Please don't dump that fine, fine automobile.

 

So the dealer just told you take it somewhere else because we don't know what's going on? Did you try other dealerships? Maybe bigger and more experienced ones?

 

I took it to all the best dealerships in NJ.
One of them is owned by my friend's family too~
plus i dont have warranty on my car anymore, so i was spending $$$ everytime i went for labor~what a waste

 

My tech checked the car again and told me that i dont have problem with spark plugs, coils, etc. he said its 95% sure its my ECU.
ECU is close to $2000~ plus other parts that i need (two rear shocks, ring and pinion, front suspension parts(i dont know the exact parts yet)
i still cant believe its ECU.
should i try to send it to Kleemann first?
If anyone could help me asap, it would be great! Im actually begging~

 

1) Have your tech buy an E-bay ECU. (~200)

2) Have someone competent desolder old chip, install new chip.

3) Re-code ECU with Star DAS machine

4) Send that ECU to Kleeman for your tune back.


That's the cheapest way I can think of to acquire a new(ish) ECU.

 

Unless he swapped the coils, and ran the car he is talking S4it.
Will he step up and eat the parts and labor on the ECU change out if it doesn't work?

Rider, you have headers the heat they throw off causes the wires to break down faster than normal.

You need to get a code reader ($39.95 Harbor Freight) and start swapping coils. DIY
`

 

Maybe you should let Kleemann look at the ECU first before spending all that money. They're usually very experienced with Mercedes' ECU and maybe they can help figure out what's going on.

 

I just got off the phone with Cory.
He told me to send the ECU to him to get it checked out.
He even doubted that my problem is ECU.
My tech tried everything....swapping coils, exhaust, spark plugs, etc
nothing was found.
One more question for you guys...
How do u know if i have a bad cat?
I only have 2ndary cat.

 

............Kleemann's headers and down pipes result in the elimination of the primary CATs. While this generally makes more power, I have come to the realization that it is not worth the trouble. Kleemann does a good job of programming "out" your primary Cats when you get the Kleemann ECU. The problem is that if you ever have a problem, no one knows how to help you. Your local MB dealer gets confused because you have no primary CAT. With few exceptions, the local Kleemann dealers are largey incompetent and not knowledgeable. Most of them just install parts and leave you and your car to the grace of God. I strongly think that Kleemann should be a bit more stringent on who they approve and list as a an authorized dealer. One of the Kleemann dealers in the Miami area admitted to me that he had NEVER EVER worked on a Mercedes.

.........a common symptom of a bad CAT is that it will begin to rattle and you can hear it. Contrary to what I was told by seemingly knowledgeable folks, you can have a bad CAT without getting a CAT specific error code. Those techs that have become enslaved by their computers will find it difficult to diagnose a bad CAT. This happened to one of my cars. Having said that, a bad Cat usually results in some type of fuel trim adaptation abnormality........not just strictly missfire codes as you are having. Someone more knowledgeable can chime in.

......I feel bad for you. I have been through this and it is very irritating. No one could help me. My mechanics will clear the codes and hand the car back to me.....of course the CEL would come back. I take the car back and it sits their for days, then they clear the codes again and hand the car back to me without addressing the problem. It was as if I was in the twilight zone.

Ted

 

Thank again Ted~
So you are saying bad cat wouldn't give me a misfiring code that im receiving.
and you are so true about tech clearing the code to see if that works~
Whenever my tech clears the code, car runs good for 4~5hrs and it comes back on at the end of day.
Im finally home to check my car. so, we will see~ I'll keep you guys updated.
Should i just try to get new coils and spark plugs?

 

.......A bad CAT can give you missfire codes, but not just missfire codes alone. There is usually some other clue. It all depends how closely your mechanic looks. Usually, long term fuel trim adaptations are messed up and the O2 sensor voltages are off as the ECu tries to adapt. This can get very problematic and your likelyhood of success all depends on how curious your mechanic is. There is a common tendency for mechanics so simply blame the previous mechanic or blame anything in the car that was not purchased through them

Ted

 

I'm by no means an expert, but if it takes 4-5hrs to come back on it may be a heat related issue ie some component fails/faults when it gets too hot.
I'd do the swapping thing. One at a time.

 

what does your car do?is it losing power,rough idle,high temp...could it be air leak!