**ATTN: TUNNERS AND ALL $1000 QUESTION ***
11-02-2008, 08:12 PM
#51
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CLS63
If the problem happens only when hot then pull the ECU when hot and put it in the freezer for 20 minutes or so while keeping the hood shut and everything else warm. Put the ECU back in to see if it now works.
You could also put the ECU in a 150 degree oven for 20 minutes or so an put it in a cold car.
If the problem is the ECU it will show itself with one of these tests.
You could also put the ECU in a 150 degree oven for 20 minutes or so an put it in a cold car.
If the problem is the ECU it will show itself with one of these tests.
Last edited by rarfinancial; 11-02-2008 at 08:15 PM.
11-02-2008, 08:15 PM
#52
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CLK63 Black, E350 Wagon, Supercharged Denali, Lotus Elise, Tesla Model 3 Dual-Motor.
O.K I will pay $1000 to the person that can figure out the problem with my car with out replacing the ECU. Here are your hints:
After a 5 to 10 minute drive, here is what happens to my car when I shut it off.
1) ESP inop warning when key in position #2
2) Temp flashes back and forth from 40 to 215 degrees when in position #2
3) cooling fan turns on and stays running when in #2
4) If you open the hood you can hear a clunking sound Like if the throttle body flaps are moving open and close fast.
If I put my hand on the intake manifold I can feel the clunking.
5) Car will not start at all keyless start or with key.
6) Seems as if the key is a not programed.
7) When car is in this state not even the MBZ laptop can communicate with cars ECU.
After a while the car will start up and run perfect. Car will run for hours and miles so long as it is not turned off.
GOOD LUCK... OH, AND NEVER A CEL
After a 5 to 10 minute drive, here is what happens to my car when I shut it off.
1) ESP inop warning when key in position #2
2) Temp flashes back and forth from 40 to 215 degrees when in position #2
3) cooling fan turns on and stays running when in #2
4) If you open the hood you can hear a clunking sound Like if the throttle body flaps are moving open and close fast.
If I put my hand on the intake manifold I can feel the clunking.
5) Car will not start at all keyless start or with key.
6) Seems as if the key is a not programed.
7) When car is in this state not even the MBZ laptop can communicate with cars ECU.
After a while the car will start up and run perfect. Car will run for hours and miles so long as it is not turned off.
GOOD LUCK... OH, AND NEVER A CEL
11-02-2008, 09:04 PM
#53
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Yes, very strong and never a hint of any problems I have always used the same tunner with no problems and the last time I updated the tume was about 10 to 12 months ago. The ECU was remove two or so months ago and was resealed. but no problems noted after the seal..
I have always used the same tunner with no problems and the last time I updated the tume was about 10 to 12 months ago. The ECU was remove two or so months ago and was resealed. but no problems noted after the seal..
11-02-2008, 09:13 PM
#54
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
The power supply from 12V to board voltage is on its way...... soon the magic smoke will escape and the little black three legged heat sink laden device will show evidence of its bout with a charging system gone awry.
The reality is the low voltage and AC dose the damage....I am sure you read that in my other post in your original thread. RAR Can you open the ECU and take a Pic?
The reality is the low voltage and AC dose the damage....I am sure you read that in my other post in your original thread. RAR Can you open the ECU and take a Pic?
11-02-2008, 09:55 PM
#55
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The power supply from 12V to board voltage is on its way...... soon the magic smoke will escape and the little black three legged heat sink laden device will show evidence of its bout with a charging system gone awry.
The reality is the low voltage and AC dose the damage....I am sure you read that in my other post in your original thread. RAR Can you open the ECU and take a Pic?
The reality is the low voltage and AC dose the damage....I am sure you read that in my other post in your original thread. RAR Can you open the ECU and take a Pic?
11-02-2008, 10:14 PM
#57
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07 CLS550 & 05 E55
Oh yea and you may want to look into your DME (Digital Motor Electronics) it's the control unit when your car is inserted or detected.
Good luck!
Good luck!
11-02-2008, 10:33 PM
#58
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11-02-2008, 10:37 PM
#59
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Where is it located? It sure does seem like the anti theft system is the problem but look at the list of symptoms I have . Some seem unrelated.. Thanks
11-02-2008, 11:18 PM
#60
If the problem happens only when hot then pull the ECU when hot and put it in the freezer for 20 minutes or so while keeping the hood shut and everything else warm. Put the ECU back in to see if it now works.
You could also put the ECU in a 150 degree oven for 20 minutes or so an put it in a cold car.
If the problem is the ECU it will show itself with one of these tests.
You could also put the ECU in a 150 degree oven for 20 minutes or so an put it in a cold car.
If the problem is the ECU it will show itself with one of these tests.
11-02-2008, 11:49 PM
#61
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Check your BATTERY !!! It could be bad, this causes everythingto go bonkers. Ifthe ECU was truly failed the car would go into limp mode. Seems like voltage problemo
11-03-2008, 01:15 PM
#63
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Hey RAR, just my input from a guy that recented toasted his ECU.
I learned real quick these can be pretty sensitive. Verdict on mine was that it was totally my fault. In my chaos to get the car ready for Sacto, I just blew it and forgot to put the top onto the ECU cover (plastic piece) and then ran it through car wash. Water got into top of ECU connectors even though it was just a few drops, it caused havoc. Only thing I can think of is some type of connection was made on 2 or more of the plug prongs due to the water and poof. Like I said, I can swap out another ECU and she starts right up but bottom line is I just bricked this one. Even the bricked one starts up fine but then just acts bizarre. Enough that I wouldn't even think of driving it.
I don't think if there are minor problems with the ECU programming being corrupted, that the ECU will limp itself but just my 2 cents.
I am still a rookie compared to Vadim and others, but I bet the loose strap eventually spiked it and toasted/corrupted something on the ECU.
I say crank down the ole battery straps, snag another ECU and let the good times roll at MIR.
I learned real quick these can be pretty sensitive. Verdict on mine was that it was totally my fault. In my chaos to get the car ready for Sacto, I just blew it and forgot to put the top onto the ECU cover (plastic piece) and then ran it through car wash. Water got into top of ECU connectors even though it was just a few drops, it caused havoc. Only thing I can think of is some type of connection was made on 2 or more of the plug prongs due to the water and poof. Like I said, I can swap out another ECU and she starts right up but bottom line is I just bricked this one. Even the bricked one starts up fine but then just acts bizarre. Enough that I wouldn't even think of driving it.
I don't think if there are minor problems with the ECU programming being corrupted, that the ECU will limp itself but just my 2 cents.
I am still a rookie compared to Vadim and others, but I bet the loose strap eventually spiked it and toasted/corrupted something on the ECU.
I say crank down the ole battery straps, snag another ECU and let the good times roll at MIR.
11-03-2008, 01:29 PM
#64
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http://www.renntechmercedes.com/support_ecu_removal.pdf
From RENNtech's instructions on removing the ECU:
PLEASE NOTE: If your vehicle features the “Keyless-Go” option we strongly recommend to NOT store
the keyless go card nearby the vehicle and keep it in a safe distance of at least 50 feet away from the car
as accidental code resetting may occur.
Maybe as jrcart alluded to...could it just be a "keyless go" problem?
Tom
From RENNtech's instructions on removing the ECU:
PLEASE NOTE: If your vehicle features the “Keyless-Go” option we strongly recommend to NOT store
the keyless go card nearby the vehicle and keep it in a safe distance of at least 50 feet away from the car
as accidental code resetting may occur.
Maybe as jrcart alluded to...could it just be a "keyless go" problem?
Tom
11-03-2008, 02:10 PM
#65
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I'll have a stab... Intermittent SBC fault causing noise. ECU fine but reacting adversely to noise source. Check error log with DAS and run a SBC diagnostic. There may be an error log reported somewhere with this type of fault.
Interesting problem though.
Interesting problem though.
11-03-2008, 10:12 PM
#66
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GL550, C55, 335i Coupe, vintage Mustang
Nick
