Belt Tensioner
12-02-2008, 10:28 PM
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Family Sedan w/5.5 K
Belt Tensioner
While Brandon was installing a new HE on my car (another thread i posted), he noticed he could pull and move the belt tensioner by hand. He felt the tensioner had to be replaced.
Does anyone know how to tell if the tensioner is shot, before i take it into the stealership and leave it there for two days?
Does anyone know how to tell if the tensioner is shot, before i take it into the stealership and leave it there for two days?
12-05-2008, 09:35 AM
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Family Sedan w/5.5 K
12-05-2008, 11:03 AM
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Not sure how to exactly tell if she is bad but there would be NO way to move mine by hand. With 17mm 1/2 inch socket on mine, you can feel that tension on it when you pull back and know you better not have fingers in the way if she slips out.
Boy are you in for a shock when you get the new one on. No tension must have meant slippage all over the friggin place.
Gonna feel like a whole new car.
Also in for a shock if your car is not under warranty. Piece is hundreds if I remember correctly. Benz parts = rape.
Boy are you in for a shock when you get the new one on. No tension must have meant slippage all over the friggin place.
Gonna feel like a whole new car.
Also in for a shock if your car is not under warranty. Piece is hundreds if I remember correctly. Benz parts = rape.
Last edited by Jakpro1; 12-05-2008 at 11:05 AM.
12-05-2008, 12:03 PM
#7
This is definitely the way to check it. Use either a 17mm 12pt socket or wrench on the tensioner bolt and very slowly rotate it to the left (as you're facing the car). It should require decent effort to rotate it.
A while back I posted a DIY on changing the SC belt that's in the DIY section at the top of the W211 E55 forum. It has pictures of the location of the bolt for the tensioner.
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12-05-2008, 03:35 PM
#8
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Interesting posts.
I'm quite sure mine is bad as well. With the engine off, I can grab the pulley & wiggle it forwards & backwards (towards front & rear of the car). I would assume this is a sure sign of a bad bearing, even though its probably only 3-4mm of play.
Doing the check method described with the 17mm socket, what movements would I be specifically looking for?
The car is still under warranty, but I'm not looking forward to the "discovery" of my Kleemann K2 kit; hopefully they won't blame a bearing failure on those mods.
As for a DIY price, the part itself runs around $190.
I'm quite sure mine is bad as well. With the engine off, I can grab the pulley & wiggle it forwards & backwards (towards front & rear of the car). I would assume this is a sure sign of a bad bearing, even though its probably only 3-4mm of play.
Doing the check method described with the 17mm socket, what movements would I be specifically looking for?
The car is still under warranty, but I'm not looking forward to the "discovery" of my Kleemann K2 kit; hopefully they won't blame a bearing failure on those mods.
As for a DIY price, the part itself runs around $190.
12-06-2008, 12:39 AM
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Family Sedan w/5.5 K
the car is under extended warranty, also not looking forward to talking to the service rep about the red 178mm VRP pulley under the hood...
thanks guys, very helpful.
thanks guys, very helpful.
12-06-2008, 04:25 PM
#11
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Interesting posts.
I'm quite sure mine is bad as well. With the engine off, I can grab the pulley & wiggle it forwards & backwards (towards front & rear of the car). I would assume this is a sure sign of a bad bearing, even though its probably only 3-4mm of play.
Doing the check method described with the 17mm socket, what movements would I be specifically looking for?
The car is still under warranty, but I'm not looking forward to the "discovery" of my Kleemann K2 kit; hopefully they won't blame a bearing failure on those mods.
As for a DIY price, the part itself runs around $190.
I'm quite sure mine is bad as well. With the engine off, I can grab the pulley & wiggle it forwards & backwards (towards front & rear of the car). I would assume this is a sure sign of a bad bearing, even though its probably only 3-4mm of play.
Doing the check method described with the 17mm socket, what movements would I be specifically looking for?
The car is still under warranty, but I'm not looking forward to the "discovery" of my Kleemann K2 kit; hopefully they won't blame a bearing failure on those mods.
As for a DIY price, the part itself runs around $190.
They are talking about two different scenarios ..The 17mm check is for if you have a bad or weak spring on your tensioner. If one of your pulley`s wobbles, then you may have a bad bearing in that pulley.. Also check the S/C idler pulley, as they go bad too. Either way, MB seems to only sell these parts as an assembly for hundreds.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
