jangy

Molecule sizes are different, though so you shouldn't just compare molar weight. I had only heard to use nitrogen because it will help to not expand and contract as much as "air". BTW, air is mostly nitrogen...

blueknight

Added an X-Pipe & wheel alignment.

MHP

N2 molecules are larger so they tend to seep out of the tire less easily than air, it also doesn't expand when cold/hot like regular air.

E55Pilot

Not true at all.

Maybe you should revisit high school chem and learn about the Ideal gas law.

ALL gases will expand with heat

The reason you use nitrogen is because it's "Dry" and contains no moisture

dlav06

Mine got the Kleeman K2 kit and carbon fiber mirror covers.

AMG

jangy

Source: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/Nitrogen.htm
"Experts in the tire industry indicate that oxidative aging is one of the primary causes of decreased tire life. Oxidative aging is caused by the diffusion of oxygen from the pressurized air cavity of the tire to the outside atmosphere. Tests have shown that if tires are inflated with nitrogen, there is a significant reduction in tire failure. Air is about 1/5 Oxygen, and oxygen, especially at high pressures and temperatures, is a very reactive element. When oxygen reacts with things, the process is called oxidation. When oxidation is extremely rapid, it's called "burning.
That's one reason nitrogen is used in off-highway and aircraft tires. These tires run so hot they can actually catch on fire. Nitrogen doesn't support combustion, so nitrogen-filled tires don't add fuel to the flames. And nitrogen helps prevent slower forms of oxidation also. Oxygen and moisture corrodes aluminum and steel wheels. Oxygen also reacts with rubber, another type of "corrosion". When this corrosion starts, the small particles break off and form rust and dust, which can clog vavle cores, causing them to leak. The rough surfaces created from the corrosive action on the wheels leads to tire beads that don't seal properly, causing additional leaks . Oxygen also ages the inner liner, the thin layer of rubber inside the tire whose function is to keep air away from the carcass. As the inner liner ages, more and more air molecules can pass through it, causing more pressure losses. These pressure losses in a truck tire can average 2 psi a month as a result of the air passing through the sidewalls. As it passes through the rubber, the oxygen can also corrode the steel cords, causing them to rust too....

While both nitrogen and oxygen can permeate rubber, nitrogen does it much more slowly. It might take 6 months to lose 2 psi with nitrogen, compared to just a month with air. And nitrogen is far less reactive. It doesn't cause rust or corrosion on steel or aluminum, and it doesn't degrade rubber. Wheel surfaces stay smooth and clean, rubber remains supple and resilient."

E55Pilot

Yet you don't address the ideal gas law issues with your post.

Now go back and research that

jangy

Sorry, no need to go back or research. Read what I wrote. I compared the expansion rate of AIR to Nitrogen. Air, by definition includes water vapor which happens to mix with Oxygen. As the temp, elevation, etc. go up and down a tire filled with greater than 96% Nitrogen will simply be more stable than one filled with Air. You say all not true, i say true.

E55Pilot

I did, where does it address the Ideal gas law which you got wrong in a previous post.

and let's clarify your post, you didn't write it you copy and pasted from another website. You also apparently did read what you posted.

I know why you use Nitrogen in a tire, see the pilot part of my screen name...

jangy

Yes I do. Again, I never argued that you aren't smarter or that you do not know why Nitrogen is preferred. I'm not the one trying to make a point here. I simply posted what I thought and you don't like it. Sorry, but lets do stop screwing up everyone's threads. How about you start a new thread and note in it everytime I am lying. That way everyone knows I am stupid and the threads stay cleaner, ok?

parkers1997e320

I was planning on getting something nice for my Beast, but after taking it to the dealership for a routine service, I got stuck with the following:

Airmatic rear shocks need to be replaced- $2,127.75
Power steering pump leak- $575.50
Spark Plug replacement- $715.40
Brake Fluid- $330.34
Sunroof Sticking, Need lube kit (?)- $120.38
Front Brake Replacement- $886.31
Service "G"- $720.00 est.

The total cost is around $5,500.00 plus tax. My service manager is doing everything for $3,808.13, plus a 15% discount that will give me an "out the door" cost of $3,236.91.

So I would like to thank my service manager Clayton Steven from Mercedes of Fife for being a great manager and giving me an outstanding break.

blackbenzz

Happy New Year!
Damn your car looks good!
Congrats, hopefully you get it back soon.
Which MT's did you go with? You could have just bought mine because they supposedly made mine in E55 fitment and offset is wayyyyyyyyy off for my car. I have to use huge spacers
Congrats! How much did your trap speed go up?

The Godfather

Got some rims too

AZIPOD

$715 for spark plugs? $330 for brake fluid!!??
Even at a 15% discount, the prices appear very steep.

FYI, you can purchase the spark plugs online for $10/each (you'll need 16). The brake fluid you can get for $15-25.

cruzinquick

About 2mph so far. I had a slower pass at 117mph. All the rest were at 116mph. I couldn't break 115's, or 11's before that. That's with our best DA, was around 1700' on that pass. Can't wait for some negative DA in Famoso. I'll attach a datalog so you can see my tune is very conservative. I'm hoping for a little more agressive one for Famoso. The most noticeable improvement with the mani's is the motor doesn't seem like it's working as hard. Could be my imagination though. Not bad for stock exhaust, cooling, and ignition.

Sorry couldn't load my logs because of the file type. My afr's are in the 12's the whole run. Boost goes from 14-17psi.

JohnnyNg1981

I gave mine a nice Clay-Bar detail and wash.