How to lower E55 AMG
02-03-2009, 10:47 PM
#51
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2005 E55 / 2008 E63
Agree. I took my car in this am for a tranny issue (paperwork) and had a side conversation regarding STAR lowering and - 10 degree mod (no paperwork...) It is being done.
02-05-2009, 05:04 AM
#52
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Join Date: Oct 2006
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2007 CLK63 Cab
Thank you everyone for suggesting my Lowering Links!!!
I have finally bit the bullet and after 2 years of very successful business I decided to spend my 1st advertising dollars here on MB World. All my sales from day 1 have been just threw word of mouth and referrals from others that have bought my Lowering Kits. At least now I can post here and answer any questions people might have.
Read so much about which method is the best for Lowering. Electronic modules, Links or Star. It's such a constant debate but here's my take, please don't think I'm being bias because of my product.
Back in 03 I bought a CL55 brand new. One of the 1st things I wanted to do was lower it. Back then there really wasn't much in the market. 1 shop tried telling me it cost $2500 which I thought was way to high then they somehow dropped there price to $1700 but didn't say how they were going to do it. Still seemed too high so just waited a little longer. Started to read about electronic modules but really didn't like the idea of having to cut wires in my new $167k car and back then they were $1500usd. Then a thread here come out saying how you can lower your vehicle for .15 cents. That grabbed my attention right away, had to give it a try. Everybody here has heard of the washer method. That does work for the front a bit, but you really got to watch how many you put on the Link bracket before you run out of thread. Unfortunately it doesn't work for the rear. Ended up making some Mickey mouse brackets to shorten the Links and all I can say is that it was dam time consuming. After doing a few different vehicles I decided to make my own Links and here we are today. Now the point of my story, which is better and which 1 will cause less failures of the Airmatic system. My old CL got sold to a friend and he just sold it last month. Since that time 1 hose that gives fluid to a shock punctured. Got covered under warranty with the Lowering Links still on the vehicle. Would that of happened with a Electronic module, possibly. I know Its just 1 vehicle but the reality of it is that a failure can happen whether the vehicle is lowered or not. I get many calls from people asking if I do airmatic repairs because there cars keep sagging, leaking fluid and there not even lowered. Its such a small percentage people on these forums listing there problems to how many vehicles are really on the road. Who knows the actual number of failures that are occurring on a daily basis around the world. From my years of experience and many many of my customers they will tell ya unless you really want to be able to adjust your ride height inside the vehicle why spend the extra money just to do the same job. As far a SDS goes I have sold many Kits to people who have had it done and for some reason, after time, the vehicle ends up raising it self back up to the stock ride height.
I'm sure this will start a riff but after being in business for just over 2 years and not having a single complaint you guys can choose which method makes more sense to go with.
Thank you again everyone for your support!!!
John.
I have finally bit the bullet and after 2 years of very successful business I decided to spend my 1st advertising dollars here on MB World. All my sales from day 1 have been just threw word of mouth and referrals from others that have bought my Lowering Kits. At least now I can post here and answer any questions people might have.
Read so much about which method is the best for Lowering. Electronic modules, Links or Star. It's such a constant debate but here's my take, please don't think I'm being bias because of my product.
Back in 03 I bought a CL55 brand new. One of the 1st things I wanted to do was lower it. Back then there really wasn't much in the market. 1 shop tried telling me it cost $2500 which I thought was way to high then they somehow dropped there price to $1700 but didn't say how they were going to do it. Still seemed too high so just waited a little longer. Started to read about electronic modules but really didn't like the idea of having to cut wires in my new $167k car and back then they were $1500usd. Then a thread here come out saying how you can lower your vehicle for .15 cents. That grabbed my attention right away, had to give it a try. Everybody here has heard of the washer method. That does work for the front a bit, but you really got to watch how many you put on the Link bracket before you run out of thread. Unfortunately it doesn't work for the rear. Ended up making some Mickey mouse brackets to shorten the Links and all I can say is that it was dam time consuming. After doing a few different vehicles I decided to make my own Links and here we are today. Now the point of my story, which is better and which 1 will cause less failures of the Airmatic system. My old CL got sold to a friend and he just sold it last month. Since that time 1 hose that gives fluid to a shock punctured. Got covered under warranty with the Lowering Links still on the vehicle. Would that of happened with a Electronic module, possibly. I know Its just 1 vehicle but the reality of it is that a failure can happen whether the vehicle is lowered or not. I get many calls from people asking if I do airmatic repairs because there cars keep sagging, leaking fluid and there not even lowered. Its such a small percentage people on these forums listing there problems to how many vehicles are really on the road. Who knows the actual number of failures that are occurring on a daily basis around the world. From my years of experience and many many of my customers they will tell ya unless you really want to be able to adjust your ride height inside the vehicle why spend the extra money just to do the same job. As far a SDS goes I have sold many Kits to people who have had it done and for some reason, after time, the vehicle ends up raising it self back up to the stock ride height.
I'm sure this will start a riff but after being in business for just over 2 years and not having a single complaint you guys can choose which method makes more sense to go with.
Thank you again everyone for your support!!!
John.
02-09-2009, 09:45 AM
#55
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Join Date: Sep 2008
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W211 E500 Estate
The camber kits are $795. If you wanted to purchase completely new arms and have us press in the bushings for you, we should be able to do that if we can located at set of new ones for you assuming they are removable from the sub frame. On the S600 W221 2007 model the inner rear bushings had to be pressed out on the car because the lower arm was not able to be removed from the subframe without taking the whole sub frame out.
