I was following this thread as my car is doing the same thing....had the alternator and big battery checked and they are in spec...my light went out for 1 week then came back on today and even after resetting, it now comes back on with in 5 minutes...

 

Guys please keep this thread going. I just had this issue yesterday. Im going to get my batteries and alternator tested. Thanks for the help!!!

 

So I'm joining the freak out club. I had not driven my car for a couple months and it was a few days after I began driving it again that I got the battery warning light. I noticed some of the electronics were not working properly (radio/all audio cutting out, ac/heater pushing air choppily rather than consistently, seat/steering wheel not adjusting at entry/exit) and also the car completely freaked out on me & died in a parking lot before I had a chance to have it checked out--pushing this lead block into a parking space was not fun while I was alone.

But after my car freaked out, it started again and acted as if nothing was wrong. I took the car into the dealer anyway & asked them to check both batteries. Both batteries checked out fine, but as I was about to leave, they were moving the car to the end of the service drive & the car would not start.

Based on the behavior of the car, the tech felt like it was the crank position sensor. They had to wait about half an hour to be able to restart the car & verify that the crank sensor was the problem & they did in fact have a code come up indicating that problem. So they replaced the crank sensor & I came back the following day & was on my way out of town.

Not too far out of town, I notice the accelerator is no longer responding & the tach is dropping. I was able to steer the car to the shoulder where it died again. I called up my service advisor & also roadside assistance to arrange a tow back to the dealership.

That was Friday. Today after work, I called to check on the car & they said they pulled the codes (again?) and found the alternator to not be sending the correct voltage. So they replaced the alternator, took the car out for a test drive, and everything seems fixed.

They get back to the dealership & the car will not start, again.

Right now, they tell me that they suspect that its one of the fuel pumps not regulating properly--incidentally, the pump actually in/near the fuel tank has already been replaced once due to the fuel smell issue.

Anyway, I'll keep y'all posted with what tomorrow finds.

 

in my previous car, a bmw 745, the battery couldn't just be replaced... you had to go in with bmw's gt1 computer and register it... is this also the case with mb, or can you do swap without having to do any furthur work?

 

Anyone check their voltage regulator? That is what apears to be wrong with my 55 after a similar episode. The car is in the shop now and I guess I will know tomorrow.

 

My battery warning light is always on. Replaced the big battery with DieHard battery today but the warning light is still there. I will take my car back to the dealership tomorrow morning.

 

I had mercedes roadside assistance come over to replace my main battery because I thought that was the issue, but when he come he said that if the warning is red, then its the SBC battery and if its white then its the main battery..

True?

 

The dealer replaced the battery control module. Parts along costs $810. With labour the total comes to $1162cdn.
I should've sold the car before the warranty runs out.

 

That red sign message battery warning appear to me when i stop running the car for max 3 days, so when i turn on the car it appear and switch the engine for 5 menits and restart it , it disappeared !

I wonder why this happen only when i stop using the car for 3 days !

 

So what did ya find out all these months later?

Of course, this problem has now reared its ugly head in my car and there seems to be no real cause that I can discern for this problem. Any concrete news?

 

where are you guys buying the main battery from? Is it a direct fit? I've searched the forum and came across two different types of battery people bought. Bosch group 46 or Interstate group 49. Can someone confirm if it's either group 46 or 49?

 

I replaced my main battery in the trunk with "Diehard International Group 49-875 72M" battery.

 

replaced the aux battery and light went off

 

This is exactly what happend to me today. I changed both batteries and I still got the visit workshop icon.... I also lost my power steering and brakes a block away from my home. It really sucks but what could you do.

 

Hi all

Same problem on E270CDI 2004.
Had both batteries renewed and also alternator working fine.
Light constantly on and staying on. SBC hold unavailable also.

HEEELPPPP - I need to fix it so I can sell it

 

Had a similar thing happen to me, out one Saturday and got the "convenience features disabled warning". I drove it straight home and booked and appointment for Monday morning with the dealership. I decided to drive it there on the Monday morning as the dealership is 6 miles from the house. WELL it was a scary ride as SBC shutdown and car went into limp mode. Fortunately this all happened 1/2 a mile from the dealership. Well long story short they replaced the main battery and checked alternator and said all was good. I picked it up that Friday as they had a few other items to take care of Keyless Go being one of them. So picked it up and drove 2 miles and same "convenience features disabled “warning came back on. Drove it right back to the dealer and they looked at the cart again. Now they say the alternator had failed. So have them not only check output but output with a load on the alternator.

 

"convenience battery temp unavailable - had this for years... Was told no issues with the car, it was just the onboard electrics putting the car in safety mode until the convenience battery was upto charge.
Always happened in winter on nights when -0 or less.

Was told to put a larger amp battery 100amp iso 70amp on the back which fixed the problem, but then gave me the red warning problem.

Being told now that wiring looms need changing at a cost of £400 per day £50 per hour day rate ...

Looked at the manual and read the following

Message - battery red lamp visit workshop

The signal circuit 61 cannot be read via the interior CAN (not got a clue what this is)
The message appears, if the battery control unit (N82) is defective, the alternator (G2), the additional battery relay (K57/2) or the additional (convenience) battery (G1/7) are defective....

So battery okay - now limited to Relay oe battery control module

What do you think???

 

Red message comes on each time I start up. Installed new battery & new alternator in April '12. I was told today by a local mechanic that a Benz won't function right unless a Bosch alternator was use. Is this factual or BS? Also, if both new parts check out, does anyone know how to reset the Dreaded Red "Visit Workshop" message if that is the answer?

 

Sorry to bring back an old thread but did you find out the problem and get it resolved?

 

Yes. The aux battery under the hood had died. I had it replaced by a local mechanic up on Long Island where I spend the summer and did the diagnosis. Replaced it for $145.00. I now have a new alternator and 2 new batteries, so I should be ok for a while. Thanks for your interest.

 

On the other thread, i had the low battery/ red batery code. In order i replaced one thing at a time

voltage regulator, aux battery, battery isolator relay for aux battery, charged rear battery fully, battery control module in trunk

vr, aux battery, and relay made the red battery code go away.

charging the rear fully and replacing bcm made the low battery conve fuctions disabled go away completely. Car shows now 14.1v on FSS dash when car is running. Before was 13.2

I also purchased a new alternator if none of the above worked. Luckily it did.

 

mine pooped out on me last night and every red warning message you can thnk of showed up.. battery/alt, esp malfunction, brakes...

battery test at home shows cells in battery are good so its got to be voltage regulator or alternator...

had to take it to the stealership this morning and have them take me to work... they are replacing voltage regulator now and hopefully that is the fix since they would have to order the alternator and that leaves me screwed for the weekend....

if its not one thing its another with these cars.... thinking of getting rid of mine and going the porsche 996 911 turbo route and slapping an evoms 700 kit on it and calling it a day!

 

I had this rodeo about a 3 months ago. I have a red visit workshop. I have replaced rear bat, starter, fuzes all while they were trouble shooting the problem at my expense. However I've never changed the front battery. Ted at MPower said this is most likely the issue, does anyone have any pics of this? I am not sure how I get to the battery or what covers i take off under the hood. Thanks.

 

Its in the back passenger corner of the engine bay, underneath the charcoal filter. Remove the 10 mm nut (by the windshield washer fill) to remove that black cover that holds the charcoal filter. When you remove that cover/ filter, you will see the small auxillary battery.

 

Thanks! I'll check it out tonight! Hopefully it will be an easy one.