Dead Cylinder
#1
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E55 AMG
Dead Cylinder
Well it turns out that the misfire is #8 is reading 90 compared to the others at 150. I am having the head removed and inspected. I really hope its just a valve.
Anyways I hope somebody can chime in here and throw some possible causes. It seems to be really rare. My guess is cheap fuel.
Anyways I hope somebody can chime in here and throw some possible causes. It seems to be really rare. My guess is cheap fuel.
#2
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Ummmmm, anyone wanna break the news.
Usually that means burnt piston on these cars.
Keep us updated.
Please please tell me you are under warranty?????
Usually that means burnt piston on these cars.
Keep us updated.
Please please tell me you are under warranty?????
#3
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Sorry to hear. Low compression reading usually means you fried a piston near the ring land and or cracked rings, possibly bent valve. <<< Kinda doubtful.
+1 keep us updated. Pics would be helpful.
+1 keep us updated. Pics would be helpful.
#4
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Well it turns out that the misfire is #8 is reading 90 compared to the others at 150. I am having the head removed and inspected. I really hope its just a valve.
Anyways I hope somebody can chime in here and throw some possible causes. It seems to be really rare. My guess is cheap fuel.
Anyways I hope somebody can chime in here and throw some possible causes. It seems to be really rare. My guess is cheap fuel.
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#7
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SL600
Sure, anything is fixable. Well, at least until it isn't. LOL.
It's just expensive. Get ready to bend over, you're looking at $5k easy...to the best of my knowledge, the motor has to come out. Then you have the teardown, and now there will be 20 more things you may as well do while you're going at it. This ain't guna be cheap!
FWIW, someone sold you a lemon man. You may have a case against the dealer/seller, depending on what your mechanic says about how old the damage is, or ESPECIALLY if you have stored CEL's relating to this issue that go back to before the date you bought the car. Take my advice, DO NOT CLEAR ANY CODES. Go to someone with a SDS and have them print them out on paper, with dates.
It's just expensive. Get ready to bend over, you're looking at $5k easy...to the best of my knowledge, the motor has to come out. Then you have the teardown, and now there will be 20 more things you may as well do while you're going at it. This ain't guna be cheap!
FWIW, someone sold you a lemon man. You may have a case against the dealer/seller, depending on what your mechanic says about how old the damage is, or ESPECIALLY if you have stored CEL's relating to this issue that go back to before the date you bought the car. Take my advice, DO NOT CLEAR ANY CODES. Go to someone with a SDS and have them print them out on paper, with dates.
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#8
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Sure, anything is fixable. Well, at least until it isn't. LOL.
It's just expensive. Get ready to bend over, you're looking at $5k easy...to the best of my knowledge, the motor has to come out. Then you have the teardown, and now there will be 20 more things you may as well do while you're going at it. This ain't guna be cheap!
FWIW, someone sold you a lemon man. You may have a case against the dealer/seller, depending on what your mechanic says about how old the damage is, or ESPECIALLY if you have stored CEL's relating to this issue that go back to before the date you bought the car. Take my advice, DO NOT CLEAR ANY CODES. Go to someone with a SDS and have them print them out on paper, with dates.
It's just expensive. Get ready to bend over, you're looking at $5k easy...to the best of my knowledge, the motor has to come out. Then you have the teardown, and now there will be 20 more things you may as well do while you're going at it. This ain't guna be cheap!
FWIW, someone sold you a lemon man. You may have a case against the dealer/seller, depending on what your mechanic says about how old the damage is, or ESPECIALLY if you have stored CEL's relating to this issue that go back to before the date you bought the car. Take my advice, DO NOT CLEAR ANY CODES. Go to someone with a SDS and have them print them out on paper, with dates.
#9
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+1 the motor does not look hard to drop. (hopefully you don't have to either)
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low compression could be a burnt ring, burnt piston or broken ringland. pull sparkplugs and put just a bit of oil in there and compression test again. if compression goes up it either ring or ringland. when i melted a piston in my honda - the compression read 0
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I just paid $3k for a warranty for 3 years unlimited miles and I have 1 year to pay for it.
I have an 03 with 62k miles
its not cheap.. but atleast it will be peace of mind for future repairs.
No inspection needed, but don't take the car right away.. wait a few weeks.
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96 and 08 911 turbos
Im sorry, but if you take out a warranty with no inspection required, and then show up 2 weeks later with a melted piston, you have a snowballs chance in hell at getting that covered.
These insurance companies are not THAT dumb.
These insurance companies are not THAT dumb.
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Any chance they have to juice a policy, they will.
Don't over think the situation guys... All service advisers love extended warranties.
As I said, wait a few weeks.. not a couple .. I would say atleast 4 weeks or so..
and have the towed in..
#16
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SL600
dealers don't care... they need the money.
Any chance they have to juice a policy, they will.
Don't over think the situation guys... All service advisers love extended warranties.
As I said, wait a few weeks.. not a couple .. I would say atleast 4 weeks or so..
and have the towed in..
Any chance they have to juice a policy, they will.
Don't over think the situation guys... All service advisers love extended warranties.
As I said, wait a few weeks.. not a couple .. I would say atleast 4 weeks or so..
and have the towed in..
But just to be safe, he should go to a different dealer than the one who originally diagnosed the problem. That should add an extra degree of separation.
Other than the dealer objecting, I think he's ok. The odds of the warranty company pulling a VMI and investigating the car's service history are slim to none, and even if they do, then you can just say it was for a different problem, or that it got a lot worse over the last 2 months...
I would definitely go the warranty route too. Yes, you'll still have to pay $4k or whatever for the warranty coverage, so from a dollar cost basis you're still stuck in a crappy position and aren't really coming out ahead vs. paying for this repair on your own. But the real benefit is that after this repair, at least your future repairs will be covered, and that will add up to a real savings over time...
I still think, depending on the dates of the stored codes, you might have a case to make them take this car back. Thing's clearly a lemon, you've only owned it a month and you already need a friggin' engine rebuild....sheesh...
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#18
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
BTW is a fried piston fixable on these cars?
Again unless they changed everything, AMG won't sell you a piston and rod. Need all 8 with crank.
BEFORE you go doing something like that, check around for used AMG engines. A few floating around. One just sold that was on Ebay for years for around 10-12K.
Keep your chin up though. At least have someone pop the head and take a peek in or have it scoped.
Keep us updated.
#23
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
HEY GOOD NEWS YOBI!!
Just heard back from my dealer. I am double checking on this right now but he claims you can snag a piston and rod separate now.
Will respost if he replys that he was wrong.
Otherwise here ya go.
Hey Jim,
You can get a single piston and rod from Benz on the 211.076. The prices are as follows:
Piston p/n: A 113 030 15 17 Retail: $660.00 (Standard size)
Piston p/n: A 113 030 17 17 Retail: $785.00 (Repair Size 97.25 mm)
ConRod p/n: A 113 030 04 20 Retail: $320.00
Bearing p/n: A 113 030 01 60 Retail: $37.00
Just heard back from my dealer. I am double checking on this right now but he claims you can snag a piston and rod separate now.
Will respost if he replys that he was wrong.
Otherwise here ya go.
Hey Jim,
You can get a single piston and rod from Benz on the 211.076. The prices are as follows:
Piston p/n: A 113 030 15 17 Retail: $660.00 (Standard size)
Piston p/n: A 113 030 17 17 Retail: $785.00 (Repair Size 97.25 mm)
ConRod p/n: A 113 030 04 20 Retail: $320.00
Bearing p/n: A 113 030 01 60 Retail: $37.00
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SL600
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Do you know how many motors are rebuilt on a DAILY BASIS, without having to buy an overpriced pre-packaged assembly from the manufacturer, who conveniently makes a $h!tload of money off the deal?
It's a CON-JOB...
#25
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SL600
HEY GOOD NEWS YOBI!!
Just heard back from my dealer. I am double checking on this right now but he claims you can snag a piston and rod separate now.
Will respost if he replys that he was wrong.
Otherwise here ya go.
Hey Jim,
You can get a single piston and rod from Benz on the 211.076. The prices are as follows:
Piston p/n: A 113 030 15 17 Retail: $660.00 (Standard size)
Piston p/n: A 113 030 17 17 Retail: $785.00 (Repair Size 97.25 mm)
ConRod p/n: A 113 030 04 20 Retail: $320.00
Bearing p/n: A 113 030 01 60 Retail: $37.00
Just heard back from my dealer. I am double checking on this right now but he claims you can snag a piston and rod separate now.
Will respost if he replys that he was wrong.
Otherwise here ya go.
Hey Jim,
You can get a single piston and rod from Benz on the 211.076. The prices are as follows:
Piston p/n: A 113 030 15 17 Retail: $660.00 (Standard size)
Piston p/n: A 113 030 17 17 Retail: $785.00 (Repair Size 97.25 mm)
ConRod p/n: A 113 030 04 20 Retail: $320.00
Bearing p/n: A 113 030 01 60 Retail: $37.00
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I am still floored they would even try such a dirty trick, and try and force people to drop $20k when all they need is one piston. If that was their position, then honestly I would tell the OP to file a complaint with the Attorney General for his state. It's a S-C-A-M...