Jakpro1

Told Ken down at my dealer that you were doing this without lift and his jaw dropped!

You are an animal! Took him quite a few hours working with lift and all factory tools.

stevebez

Yes

stevebez

I feel allot slimmer but honestly plain stupid not doing this on a lift no heroics whatsoever. I should have rented a lift bay and have the whole re-re in one day ... instead of 3 and counting. Should be all done tomorrow though.

Good news is diff is in! One side is done - just waiting on some new caliper bolts and prime the diff with oil, flip in the other side shaft etc and that should be all she wrote bar a car that is in all liklihood going to go into limp mode.....

still got the software to go... No results on that front.

The joys....

Auraraptor

Good luck Steve...I am rooting for you!

BTW, how much fluid did the diff take/what fluid did you use?

Mikesamg

Or take it to James at ACG since he knows how to take the parts off the stock HE and adapt it like he had to do with mine.

stevebez

Thanks !!!

I'll find out from Benz tomorrow when I pick up the caliper bolts. The thing here is the Quaife is more "meaty" than the stock diff so there is a chance you could overfill if you go by OEM volume... I'll check with my MB tech as well how they do it --- my WIS is still up the pole.

I think you fill it up to the plug on the side.... Does not take allot of fluid if I go by the OEM diff. Had to tilt it on its side before any oil came out.

BTW I took the diff back to quaife for them to reorientate the circlips correctly ... not very impressed with them here. This they should not have missed ... first AMG they have done there though from what I was told!

Also FYI - the SL and E diffs are INDENTICAL except for the gear ring.

stevebez

OK car is back together... yippee!!!

Just need to add diff oil, and put the heat sink back on the diff and its test drive time - or should I say limp time?

Well I am expecting a problem so if it comes up sobeit. If not I'll be over the moon!

Problem so far is NO ONE has come back about fixing the software!!!!!!!

cls55

did you use any shims by any chance?

stevebez

The fill volume is stated as between 1.1-1.6 litres, although you should fill to the lower brim of the filler plug with car on level ground.

I used some castrol synthetic 75W-90... can't remember now which one precisely, but ill put it up soon. Quaife recommended this grade, although MB said 75W-85 is fine.

Auraraptor

Thanks for the info! I will order some fluid then. What did you go with? I am likely going with Redline shockproof Heavy weight.

stevebez

Some tool tips if you are doing an install...

Exhaust - 13mm socket or flat (and 12mm socket / flat for the middle section bolts).

2 Diff carrier bolts - E18 Torx

Top 2 wheel carrier bolts - 21mm nut (make sure its a good quality torx - these are tight).

2 caliper bolts - E18 torx - need big leverage to get off. Used 1m breaker bar and only just made it before bolts got too rounded.

1 Lower wheel carrier bolt - spline 12mm / 21mm nut - easy enough

1 Lower wheel carrier bolt - hex 10mm / 21mm nut - easy enough

Sway bar bolt - 18mm both sides - no problem

1 Lower main wheel carrier bolt - hex 12mm / 21mm nut (don't remove this one ... vv tough to get back in position.)

Diff oil plug - 14mm allen key

stevebez

OK D-day ... HEM's, new rear discs, diff, side shafts, exhaust and wheels are all back on.

In retrospect this is a difficult install mostly because of the cramped conditions but it certainly is not as tough as it sounds - also had my dad helping me - which did save time. I could do this again in a day no problem - with a lift, day and a half without. I would say 30-40% of my time was spent getting stuck bolts loose, 20% due to poor procedure. So this could be done by anyone really... just have to be patient and dont rush ANYTHING.

Need to fit the diff heat sink this morning and then prime the diff with oil when car is level and then its test drive time.



At mom I am trying to find an SL55 TCU from a breaker yard. Only option I have left at mom to be good for the fighting torque event on Sunday.

Auraraptor

testdrivetestdrivetestdrive

stevebez

OK so I eased her out of the garage and take her up the road. Car was WAYYYYY down on power. Foot flat hardly got me moving, and could not shift beyond 3rd gear. I think this was because I had the car's battery disconnected for a couple of days and the car was re-learning everything. Also the bleeding of the coolant was not 100% I think after the CODE3 install, but I was driving waaay to gingerly for the S/C to engage anyway. Also was in Battery protection mode.

Tried and EGS reset and I had all my power back but again as soon as I got to 3rd gear was as if I hit the speed limiter - power gets pulled.

1st and second were pretty frantic while it was working though.

There was no error on the display anywhere that there was a fault.

I took the car past my MB tech and he stuck it on STAR right there and then (by this time an engine light in the console had just illuminated) .. - he is a bit of a car nut - and I got about 6 pages of code readout. The first page had the most interesting being "Implausible gear ratio" - is the main error once I hit third gear. There was also load limit active. Tech said he thought this was from S/C shutting down... could not trace the reason for the active load limit, but he did think the ECU and EGS were tripping each other into errors. The other pages of code related to other electrical stuff mostly low voltage reads etc - probably when I disconnected the battery.

What is interesting is the EGS reset (aka "Sneaky TCU reset") definitely works and clears this problem temporarily until you get up to third gear again.

Good news is vibration under braking was resolved with the new rear discs (which btw have 3 vent holes in a line than the older versions 2).

So car runs OK, but clearly this is not going to be resolved (I dont think) by Sunday's event. I can't find a donor SL55 EGS module in time.

I have one last option and that is Dyno mode.

Been thinking about running the car after an EGS reset in this mode and see if she shifts up to fifth gear or not.... I think all the electronic wheel speed checks are ignored... so I should not get any of these faults...?

If she does I then have to decide if I want to take this car up to ~150mph in dyno mode.... and go to the FT event.

The other alternative is to borrow my friends SL55 EGS and see if it works...

I need to check there is no air in my chain of heat exchangers first and then I'll try dyno mode VERY gingerly.

As I understand it in this mode there are no electronic aids whatsoever and all you have are power and brakes (without ABS). Is this correct?

Back later with more...

Some more detail - diff took about 1.45litres of oil.

Auraraptor

Interesting. I was afraid of the gear ratio warning. Looks like I was justified. No luck with Kleeman? They got back to me, I just didn't persue it as I have other more pressing projects.

BTW, is the EGS reset (aka "Sneaky TCU reset") the 'key to just before crank and hold the throttle down for 5 seconds/turn off/release throttle' test?

stevebez

Yes although I hold it for 20-30 seconds before releasing. Kleemann UK are pathetic - have not even returned my email .. and can never get hold of them.

Going to try Dyno mode in a short while and see what happens!

Auraraptor

info@kleemann.dk

Got back to me in 2 or 3 days. (not for immediate help, but after you get back)

stevebez

Funny ... I've just sent them a mail a few mins ago!!!

But not likely to resolve my dilemma.

stevebez

OK tried dyno mode... same story car goes limp as soon as you hit 3rd gear.

Pulled the plug on the FT 1 mile event, and so has my friend in his SL55...

Tried all I could but not to be.



For those going have fun, and kick butt.

I now will find a decent setup for my EGS... I will wait to hear from Kleemann I guess. MKB have not come back and Wetterauer don't touch them.

I guess no one has good info on how to read the code off an EGS?

Zod

I will say it one last time ...carlson or evotech are ur best 2 bets. good luck

stevebez

I heard you the first time thanks.

Zod

just trying to save u time mate, got a guy here with an E55 whw has the SL55 2.8 ratio.

I know they can do it. Gettign in touch is the tricky part i guess. Best of luck

turbotom1

So how much time would you add if you installed the Quaife into the diff yourself instead of having them do it ?

Pull out the old diff, yank the factory bearings and press them into the new diff and reassemble ?

Will you realign your rear wheels ?


https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-w-quaife.html
.

dyno

Hi, Steve
sad to hear you are in the usual mess .. I was hoping 2.82 could work more easily with stock TCU.

- please tell me EGS reset is the same as so called ECU reset, correct ?

second, engine light on is the same that happened to me and Dyno mode doesn't help ..

You should be able to fix the issue because 2.82 ratio should be supported by your TCU and it is the only ratio a lot of tuners learned to fix.

If you have a DAS DEV you could try the following: enter into TCU, where setting values for final ratio are shown and you should find your current 2.65 value shown as "BM74" (sorry, this is for CLS. if you have a W211, the stock value should be bm73).
You should see a list of additional values. If you find "BM75", try to load it.
Don't know if the new value will be accepted. If you get a "communication error" you will have to send your tCU to somebody for re-programming.

but if you have the chance to replace your TCU with one from an SL55 car, I would try that first.
It would be very interesting to know because your car's VIN should not be tied to the tcu module.

stevebez

I mailed them both thanks.