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Sub installation question for those that DIY

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Old 08-17-2009, 12:42 AM
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2006 Mercedes E55
Sub installation question for those that DIY

I installed a sub in the back of my E55 this weekend. I ran into a couple strange things that I wanted to ask about.

When I measured the signal at the stock sub on my multimeter it was around 21mv.... this is a line level signal so it wired it into the line level input on my amp -- is this how everyone else didi it ?

Also the stock sub has dual inputs... but when I tried wiring each side into left and right on my amp I got no sound. In the end the only way I could make it work was to leverage one of the inputs.
Old 08-17-2009, 01:32 AM
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I had my sub installed by tweeter and they tapped into one of the rear speakers for the amp input, and unplugged both connectors on the stock sub.

Here is a pic of my setup....
Old 08-17-2009, 01:43 AM
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the stock woofer is dual voice coil, hence the 2 inputs (one per coil) ... just grab one of the inputs and you should be just fine... as long as your amp can accept high level line inputs up to 100 watts, you shouldn't have a problem...
Old 08-17-2009, 02:01 AM
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whats a high level line input ? The amp manual says I can take up to a 1v line level input and I measured the stock sub input as .21V
Old 08-17-2009, 01:05 PM
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I use a line output converter, tap the rear speakers in the deck, run both outputs to my LOC, run both RCAs to my amp.
Old 08-17-2009, 05:27 PM
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I used a cheap crossover. It's inputs are right and left high wattage terminals and it's output are low wattage RCA's. Be careful low voltage doesn't necessarily mean low wattage, you could have a significant amount of amps running through there that your voltmeter is not showing you. Some amps accept high wattage inputs, some don't. What amp are you using?
Old 08-17-2009, 11:27 PM
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thanks for the help guys!

I rewired tonight as my amp has high level inputs.

Still get a weird thing -- if I tap into just the left side while leaving the stock sub connections connected it works.

If i remove the stock sub connections and tap into just the left I get nothing (no signal to amp).

If I tap into both connections either connected to stock sub or not I get nothing.

Trying to figure out how I would do this if I decided to remove stock sub.
Old 08-17-2009, 11:28 PM
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they prob taped into a rear speaker as they ran into what i did with stock sub connectors


Originally Posted by aleksandar1099
I had my sub installed by tweeter and they tapped into one of the rear speakers for the amp input, and unplugged both connectors on the stock sub.

Here is a pic of my setup....
Old 08-18-2009, 09:03 AM
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Bellevue, What sub is that? Is that where it normally resides? I'd be afraid of ripping it with a set of clubs or something.
Old 08-18-2009, 11:51 PM
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Thats aleksandar1099 car not mine


Originally Posted by 99DirtybirdWS6
Bellevue, What sub is that? Is that where it normally resides? I'd be afraid of ripping it with a set of clubs or something.
Old 08-19-2009, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 99DirtybirdWS6
Bellevue, What sub is that? Is that where it normally resides? I'd be afraid of ripping it with a set of clubs or something.
It is an alpine type S, it is the only sub I could use that would be able to use a box small enough to fit flat with the floor.... btw I fit three sets of clubs in the trunk with it!
Old 08-19-2009, 08:59 AM
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That's impressive. I really want to spend the time to build a box to mount one on the rear deck firing through the stock location (I already removed the stock POS.) I'm rocking a type R right now, debating on a W6 or a W7 but I figure if I mount it firing through the rear deck up against the rear glass I won't need that insane of a sub. The apline's are nice bc they don't need much of an enclosure.
Old 08-19-2009, 09:37 AM
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I just installed 2 12s with a 500/1 jl amp and after about 30 min of music I got a low bat conv display on the dash.

I have a 5 farad cap sitting around but I thought the car should power this amp with ease.
Old 08-19-2009, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by skratch77
I just installed 2 12s with a 500/1 jl amp and after about 30 min of music I got a low bat conv display on the dash.

I have a 5 farad cap sitting around but I thought the car should power this amp with ease.

Same thing happened to me when running two 300/1 amps for a while. When I removed one of the amps I could blast it all day long, so somewhere between 300 and 500 watts we're dropping the voltage too much and tripping the warning. I was told that caps WILL NOT alleviate the problem, but I know there must be people out there pushing a decent amount of wattage who don't have to stare at a warning message while they drive.

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