HOW TO: Transmission Flush
#51
MBWorld Fanatic!
I did this without taking off any lines. After I cleaned the pan I just refilled drove, drained, refilled, drove, drained until color was good. Takes more fluid but less brains.
#52
Super Member
What about the filter? Did you put a new filter in after the last drive and fill? If you didn't, old fluid would have been run through the filter, defeating some of the purpose of the flush, new filter and new fluid....not really sure, just a thought?
Last edited by MAN55LE; 10-05-2013 at 09:53 PM.
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
Here's a vid of what happens after the line is unplugged. My first fill/drain was 3qt, this was my 2nd attempt of 2qt. After you cut the motor expect about 1/8 quart to drain.
When youre done try to be on the low side of fluid. You're better off being way to low on trans fluid than overfilling at all.
If anyone has questions please feel free to PM me. I've very confident with this diy.
Cheers!
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
My only concern with this method is mixing the old original fluid with most likely 134. I used 11 quarts during my flush and used my last one to top it off to the correct level. If I were to do his method I would probably do another 2 flush cycles and use 15 quarts total.
#55
Super Member
Just pointing it out, I personally wouldn't want any old fluid running through the new filter that I'm going to have on the car for the next 40,000 miles, or any mileage for that matter.
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
The fact of the matter is most only drain the pan and call it a day. What he did was better than that even though it wasn't perfect. Most only remove 50% of the old fluid. He probably pulled out 70-80% of it.
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
MB Oakville, Canada wants 450 for an E63 trans oil and filter change. when pressured he stated 4 quarts of oil and filter, WTF that is more/ less the ultimate ripoff ever IMO. They do not drain the converter. Was not impressed with this service, so will go indy who is a Benz specialist.
#61
Member
MB Oakville, Canada wants 450 for an E63 trans oil and filter change. when pressured he stated 4 quarts of oil and filter, WTF that is more/ less the ultimate ripoff ever IMO. They do not drain the converter. Was not impressed with this service, so will go indy who is a Benz specialist.
#62
My car is hit 106,000 miles when I did mine I wasn't sure if the previous owner had done it. Well he didn't my car would have a long pause when shifting from reverse into drive to the point it was getting worse and worse. Changed the tranny fluid and filter problem solved car runs 10 times better.
#63
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CL550 & CL55 AMG
MB Service
In service A & B, aside from a very few maintenance items - basically, we the paying customer are held to ransom, as we are charged hundreds of dollars to fund the mechanic to take a leisurely inspection of our cars, an exploratory missions to see what else can be added to the bill - as he merrily lubricates doors, hood latches etc. - (not a $145/HR task)
as we are forced to comply to keep warranty valid! -
waste of $$$ - legalized robbery - Jesse James lives on!
3 things to keep the car purring for as long as you want -
(normal spirited driver)
Xmission service is/remains important - (currently MB say ok for life but after 75K look out - ) - prudent to service @ 75K then every 100K - make certain it is a FULL drain before fluid and filters replaced)
Spark plugs - 100K
Synthetic oil - every 10K or twice a year depending on distance driven
Has anyone owned these beauties long enough to remember when (me, 1985) a change of brake pads did not demand a change of rotors? one of many examples where the build quality has markedly deteriorated - kaching kaching
Can you say TESLA?
as we are forced to comply to keep warranty valid! -
waste of $$$ - legalized robbery - Jesse James lives on!
3 things to keep the car purring for as long as you want -
(normal spirited driver)
Xmission service is/remains important - (currently MB say ok for life but after 75K look out - ) - prudent to service @ 75K then every 100K - make certain it is a FULL drain before fluid and filters replaced)
Spark plugs - 100K
Synthetic oil - every 10K or twice a year depending on distance driven
Has anyone owned these beauties long enough to remember when (me, 1985) a change of brake pads did not demand a change of rotors? one of many examples where the build quality has markedly deteriorated - kaching kaching
Can you say TESLA?
#65
Super Member
have a quick question, was looking to purchase a transmission oil dip stick tool but am also interested in a engine oil dip stick tool, they seem like the same concept , but am not sure if one is longer than they other. can one dip stick tool be used for both trans and checking engine oil? below is link for trans and engine oil dip stick tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-917-3...291363&vxp=mtr
engine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Engine-Oil-Dipstick-CLS500-CLS55-SL500-SLK55-S430-S500-/370759269386?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5652f97c0a&vxp=mtr
also is the clip i need to replace in the trans cap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Merc...9ad527&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-917-3...291363&vxp=mtr
engine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Engine-Oil-Dipstick-CLS500-CLS55-SL500-SLK55-S430-S500-/370759269386?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5652f97c0a&vxp=mtr
also is the clip i need to replace in the trans cap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Merc...9ad527&vxp=mtr
#68
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Gainesville, FL: In a garage or in a bar, or a garage with a bar in it.
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
I haven't been up under the car enough to see if there's an inspection cover like most vehicles for the Torque converter, but even if there was a plug it would be one messy job I would think. Can anyone confirm?
#69
Senior Member
I haven't been up under the car enough to see if there's an inspection cover like most vehicles for the Torque converter, but even if there was a plug it would be one messy job I would think. Can anyone confirm?
#71
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
E55 AMG, Toyota Corolla
Great guide to flushing the Trans! Followed it step by step, worked well. Transmission is running better than it ever has. 85,000km. Thanks again
#72
Newbie
Also, I was surprised at how clean my transmission fluid was. kjlindgr's fluid was definitely burnt and needing of replacing. Honestly, when I took off my pan and saw the color of the fluid, I debated about even doing the complete flush. Mine was still pretty red. Granted, it was a deeper red now, but no where close to as dirty/burnt as kjlindgr's was! This is with 41851 on the car. And the transmission fluid had NOT been changed previously, as the original black pin was on the transmission fluid cap.
#73
Hey all.
I think I read somewhere on here that the MB techs said the transmissions of the E55 weren't supposed to be serviced (read: flushed) or something like that. I'm not sure exactly where I read that but it sticks out in my mind. Anyway, I thought this was a bunch of rubbish and at 54K miles, I figured the E55 was probably in need of a full transmission flush. For those DIYers out there, I thought this would be some helpful information to share. This procedure works with all W211 E55's with 5-speed trans.
To do a full and proper transmission flush, by the book, you'll need the following:
* 12 liters of genuine MB fluid suitable for the 722.6 5-speed trans
* Transmission filter
* Torx wrenches
* 17mm box wrench
* 19mm box wrench
* funnel
* bucket big enough to hold 3 liters
* flat head screw driver
* transmission fluid dipstick
* lots of rags
Case of fluid and filter, ready to go in:
Here's the part number for the genuine MB filter. You can get generic filters at your local VatoZone, but for $3 extra why risk quality:
This is the fluid you need. I thought there was a part number on there somewhere, but I don't remember seeing one. There is a spec sheet on the back though telling you what applications it can and should be used for. If you are a frugal shopper, you can get it online for about $10-12 a liter. If you want convenience, your MB dealer will pony it up for about $16 a liter.
Behind the passenger (right) side intake, the transmission filler tube lives. There is a red plastic locking clip you need to bust off. With a flat head screw driver it just pops off. Push the remaining clip out of the cap, and you can pull the black cap right off. There's an o-ring on it so don't lose that.
Here's the part number for the clip if you feel the need to replace it. I priced them out and they are $0.72 at www.genuinemercedesparts.com:
I used the dipstick throughout this procedure for a couple things. First was to test the quality of the fluid in the system after each flush. Secondly was to make sure it was to the correct level. You don't want to run the trans with too much or too little fluid:
I took a sample of the fluid before draining just to check on what was going on. The old fluid is on the left. Brand new fluid straight out of the bottle on the right. Yup, it was toast. It smelled burnt, and looked like bad curry. It was probably 15K miles past due, but I can't take blame for that since I's only owned it for the last 4K
Here's the transmission pan. Drain it with the plug and then remove the 6 torx bolts around the pan. Or, you can do what I did and just remove the 6 torx bolts if you have a wide enough drainage pan:
A shot with the trans pan off. You can see the football-ish shaped filter and the valve body assembly. Don't muck with any of that other stuff, just do your business and keep it clean. The filter is just held in with an o-ring suction neck and clip on the other end. Pops right off. I did wipe the inside of the pan off though just to get all the nasty old oil out of it:
Put the new transmission filter in and bolt the pan back in place. Replace the gasket if you'd like, but mine was fine so I left it.
Next. comes the flushing procedure. Pay close attention:
1. Fill with 4 liters of transmission fluid. This is about what you'll extract during the draining process.
2. Pull off one of the lines going to the transmission from the cooler, or do what I did and pull off one of the lines up front going to the cooler. I'll put a picture below.
3. Have a friend start the car and idle until 3 liters of fluid pump into the bucket. Takes about 5-10 seconds.
4. Shut car off immediately.
5. Refill transmission with 3 liters
6. Have a friend start the car and idle until 3 liters of fluid pump into the bucket.
7. Shut car off immediately.
8. Refill transmission with 3 liters
9. Have a friend start the car and idle until 3 liters of fluid pump into the bucket.
10. Shut car off immediately.
11. Put remaining 2 liter into the transmission.
12. Reconnect transmission fluid line
13. Check the final fluid level and drain some more if it's a little high. Mine was and I had to pump about another 2 liters out.
Here's the transmission line to remove. The transmission cooler is integrated into the radiator so this is way up front in the car. You'll need to remove the front diffuser to find it. The "proper" service procedures say to remove the line at the point it enters the transmission, but this is a hard line and I didn't want to try to fit it with a rubber hose, bla bla bla...this is just easier:
Now, clean up your mess. You're done!
I think I read somewhere on here that the MB techs said the transmissions of the E55 weren't supposed to be serviced (read: flushed) or something like that. I'm not sure exactly where I read that but it sticks out in my mind. Anyway, I thought this was a bunch of rubbish and at 54K miles, I figured the E55 was probably in need of a full transmission flush. For those DIYers out there, I thought this would be some helpful information to share. This procedure works with all W211 E55's with 5-speed trans.
To do a full and proper transmission flush, by the book, you'll need the following:
* 12 liters of genuine MB fluid suitable for the 722.6 5-speed trans
* Transmission filter
* Torx wrenches
* 17mm box wrench
* 19mm box wrench
* funnel
* bucket big enough to hold 3 liters
* flat head screw driver
* transmission fluid dipstick
* lots of rags
Case of fluid and filter, ready to go in:
Here's the part number for the genuine MB filter. You can get generic filters at your local VatoZone, but for $3 extra why risk quality:
This is the fluid you need. I thought there was a part number on there somewhere, but I don't remember seeing one. There is a spec sheet on the back though telling you what applications it can and should be used for. If you are a frugal shopper, you can get it online for about $10-12 a liter. If you want convenience, your MB dealer will pony it up for about $16 a liter.
Behind the passenger (right) side intake, the transmission filler tube lives. There is a red plastic locking clip you need to bust off. With a flat head screw driver it just pops off. Push the remaining clip out of the cap, and you can pull the black cap right off. There's an o-ring on it so don't lose that.
Here's the part number for the clip if you feel the need to replace it. I priced them out and they are $0.72 at www.genuinemercedesparts.com:
I used the dipstick throughout this procedure for a couple things. First was to test the quality of the fluid in the system after each flush. Secondly was to make sure it was to the correct level. You don't want to run the trans with too much or too little fluid:
I took a sample of the fluid before draining just to check on what was going on. The old fluid is on the left. Brand new fluid straight out of the bottle on the right. Yup, it was toast. It smelled burnt, and looked like bad curry. It was probably 15K miles past due, but I can't take blame for that since I's only owned it for the last 4K
Here's the transmission pan. Drain it with the plug and then remove the 6 torx bolts around the pan. Or, you can do what I did and just remove the 6 torx bolts if you have a wide enough drainage pan:
A shot with the trans pan off. You can see the football-ish shaped filter and the valve body assembly. Don't muck with any of that other stuff, just do your business and keep it clean. The filter is just held in with an o-ring suction neck and clip on the other end. Pops right off. I did wipe the inside of the pan off though just to get all the nasty old oil out of it:
Put the new transmission filter in and bolt the pan back in place. Replace the gasket if you'd like, but mine was fine so I left it.
Next. comes the flushing procedure. Pay close attention:
1. Fill with 4 liters of transmission fluid. This is about what you'll extract during the draining process.
2. Pull off one of the lines going to the transmission from the cooler, or do what I did and pull off one of the lines up front going to the cooler. I'll put a picture below.
3. Have a friend start the car and idle until 3 liters of fluid pump into the bucket. Takes about 5-10 seconds.
4. Shut car off immediately.
5. Refill transmission with 3 liters
6. Have a friend start the car and idle until 3 liters of fluid pump into the bucket.
7. Shut car off immediately.
8. Refill transmission with 3 liters
9. Have a friend start the car and idle until 3 liters of fluid pump into the bucket.
10. Shut car off immediately.
11. Put remaining 2 liter into the transmission.
12. Reconnect transmission fluid line
13. Check the final fluid level and drain some more if it's a little high. Mine was and I had to pump about another 2 liters out.
Here's the transmission line to remove. The transmission cooler is integrated into the radiator so this is way up front in the car. You'll need to remove the front diffuser to find it. The "proper" service procedures say to remove the line at the point it enters the transmission, but this is a hard line and I didn't want to try to fit it with a rubber hose, bla bla bla...this is just easier:
Now, clean up your mess. You're done!
I think it's better to drain out 1 liter at a time, instead of 3 liters.
When too much fluid is out at any given time, you run the risk of grinding the internal parts.