emoving

Might want to consider a career change if not a business opportunity! That is some amazing work!

BerBer63

Makes you realize how much money these sponsors are making when they sell LTs for 5k.

Great work, how many hours would you say it took to remove the stock setup and install the new one? I just want to get an idea how bad I'm going to get screwed when I get LT/midpipe installed, I've heard upwards of 8-16 hours, which doesn't make sense since it's all bolt on.

FRC Z51

But what you haven't accounted for is the amount of time it took to make that whole set-up. Sure he only has "x" amount into materials, but one needs to be paid for their time/skill/R&D and also the amount they will actually sell. $5k long tubes is still insane though...

BerBer63

That's for 1 set made by a computer fabricator. Imagine if they order dozens at a time, price on materials is less and the time spent making them will be less.
This is one guy doing this on his own, not a manufacturer or huge facility who specializes in this. And that whole "research" argument is way overstated, I don't buy it for a second. There's no new technology to them it's just a selling point. When you add that to it they are making even more than what I previously thought.

kjlindgr

To remove the stock system and bolt a new system on...assuming it's just bolt-on and go...nothing else needs to be changed/welded/fabricated...I'd say even 4 hours is a bit extreme. It takes literally 30 minutes to pull the old one off. If you are going like gang-busters, you and a friend could do it in 15.

abhatti55

An amazing thread and also brings to light the ridiculous profit margins being made on long tubes or headers in general. As stated earlier materials probably cost in the $700 range, not counting the discount when you buy in mass quantity, double your material cost and I think that is a fair price for a set of headers. Agreed the research argument is crap, long tubes are long tubes nothing new and groundbreaking there. If you ever decide to start making these, put me down for a set.

kjlindgr

I would definitely not knock any of the shops on this board that sell header kits or the price they sell them for. As mentioned, there is R&D time, fabrication time, advertising, marketing, the cost of materials, shop/store overhead and I'm sure other costs involved just to break even...not to mention any profit margins. Shops NEED to make a profit to just stay in business. Economies of scale also play a part in pricing (i.e. these are Mercs, not Hondas or Mustangs). Remember that too.

I put a lot of work into these headers, but my labor is free so I only pay for my materials. I built them in my garage which is attached to my house so overhead is also a sunk cost.

Try to keep all this in perspective when you are pricing things out. My costs are artificially low where as a shop's prices should be more realistic. You'll know when you see one off the chart expensive though.

dacls63amg

How much did everything cost you?

kjlindgr

About $700 give or take about $100 depending on if you wanna factor in incidentals like electricity and such.

dacls63amg

That's badass!

is3mike

That's a very impressive DIY, well done man!!!

HadiLaw

how much for the kit?

GedaBlaq

MBH motorsports

Nice work! I have to say I'm a big fan of the Hpipe. From what I've seen, felt and heard. The xpipe is known for adding drone. If you want to cut down on the drone add an Hpipe over an Xpipe.

With all the exhaust smashing together from both cylinder banks it creates drone... And thats what you get with the Xpipe. The Hpipe will only mix a portion of the exhaust, thus cutting down on turbulent reverb.

There will always be debate on X or H pipes. I dont think anyone will yeild more power than the other. I do think the Hpipe mellows out the drone a bit though.

Cory @ Kleemann

Nice Job! 60 hours all in?

Yasmin212

Amazing.. Good work on the welds.

kjlindgr

Probably about 40 hours from start to finish working a few hours here and there over a couple weeks or so.

Thanks for the complements guys.

320 dreamer

hooley i would like to comment on this debate.
my slk32 has a factory h pipe true duals back to the resonator then a single to the muffler. i removed the secondary cats and resonator and the sound was drone and high pitched ricer bad. i added a x pipe in place of the h and a ansa muffler and it was obnoxious loud. removed the ansa and reinstalled the amg muffler. now its refined around town virtually no drone and at wot its that powerful euro sound! awesome. i attribute all this to the flow of the x pipe. mine was a stamped magnaflow stainless steel unit from ebay 83$

im sure the v8's are different but the x pipe made all the difference from a sound standpoint.
just a thought

and to the op i hate you for being so damn talented!! if you ever feel the need to make a set for a slk32 amg to showcase your talents im in!!

mokushiroku

Great write up and design of these headers. I was wondering if you kept any of these dimensions? I am building a set as well.
Flange size
Bolt spread
Diameter of the port


I am trying to make flanges before I take out the exhaust.

Thanks

Jakpro1

DIY!!?? For who, NASA engineers?

Just busting chops. That's was DIY'ing at a level so far above my skills.

Amazing!

mekantor

Real nice. These will be left as-is, or coated later?

It would be nice if LTs didnt cost so much for us. Some of the corvette mod companies should get in on this, most of theirs sell for like 1000-1500, just make it in a proper shape for the E55 and presto!

Roseylv

It would be nice if LTs didnt cost so much for us. Some of the corvette mod companies should get in on this, most of theirs sell for like 1000-1500, just make it in a proper shape for the E55 and presto![/QUOTE]

I couldn't agree more!

I thought some shops had already attempted to do make an affordable set of LT's to then get acquired by a sponsor who would mark up the price.

Almost forgot....to the OP

Great work on the headers, they look beautiful!

kurtwz

Hey, awesome job on this. Got a couple questions for you. I'm currently doing a set of Eurocharged long-tube headers and the rear o2 sensor bung is too far back for the cord to reach it. I noticed yours go back really far. First question: How did you arrange for that? Is there a cable extension I could get?

Second question: I don't have the torque specs for the steering shaft bolt. Do you know what it is? I put it back on and used some thread locker blue and the German quasi torque specs--"Gut und tight"

Thanks in advance.

pearlpower

This separates the men from the boys; very impressive work and by far the best DIY on here. Your welds are clean, mind sharing which welder you use, of course technique is paramount. Thanks.

kjlindgr

The welder I used for this is a Miller Dynasty 200DX. It's a TIG welder for those not familiar. I had a Synchrowave 180SD TIG machine prior and switching from a transformer welder to an inverter was night and day difference. Both have their benefits, but I'm diggin' the geeky features of the inverter machine I have now.

As far as the O2 sensors go, I extended the wires but cutting them and soldering on extensions. I'm not sure if anyone makes a jumper harness for their long tube kits, but I would think it'd be a must for any normal DIY'er...unless they expect them to be installed at a shop that's confident doing that kind of thing.

I didn't look up the torque specs on the steering shaft either, but I did the same as you. Blue Loctite and made sure it was snug, but not too tight.