Adsonic

AWOL

hmmm, seems low. Not so much the horsepower, but the torque seems very poor.

General rule is most e55s dyno between 410-420 stock on a dynojet

edit: why did they start the run at 5k? they suck whoever did this

Adsonic

I told them to hit it at 2000rpm, but they said that it was wayyyy too early

AWOL

well they are wrong. peak torque comes in at like 3000 rpm, hence your low numbers.

go somewhere else next time

edit: and do it in 3rd next time

Adsonic

I read that 4th is the correct 1/1 gear

Does a run from 2000rpm sounds good?

prodigymb

WTF. They started the Dyno at 4500rpm????? Go make them redo it or give you your money back.

You need to have your car in Dyno mode.
Transmission in manual mode.
3rd or 4th are both OK.
You need to start the dyno right around 2000-2500 rpm.

Pay 0 attention to the numbers you got as they are meaning-less.

lowprofile

You did not mention if you have a tune on your car yet. In the US, the E55 is speed limited to 155mph. If this is the same for you, then you would have hit the speed limiter function when dynoing in 4th. I would try again in 3rd this time and start at the above stated RPMs.

Adsonic

I think you're right, I got my car from the US and as far as I know its still stock tune. on a side note, for some reason it stalls real bad at around 140mph

BenzoBoi

I say get yer money back and go dyno at a different shop that knows what they are doing...

DAGREEKNYC

Stalls ??? I would check that out .

When u hit the limiter u just get a dead pedal .

cahiil55k

They started the pull way too high. In my car it's been difficult to avoid the kickdown even in Manual plus dyno mode but I still get pulls from around 3800rpm in third. I think in E55s the 1-1 ratio is 3rd gear. Also they are using DIN correction factors which yields the highest numbers. Call them and have them convert your run file numbers using SAE correction factors instead. In colder temps, DIN #s > STD #s > SAE #s. With all that said, it looks like your hp numbers are average. Your torque reading on this particular printout, unfortunately, is worthless due to the RPM at which they started recording.

tylersphile

It appears to me there is no horsepower curve. It just looks like two TQ curves from multiple runs to me. It can be difficult to hook up the ignition tap lead... And yes, your numbers don't tell you anything worthwhile at the RPM it was started at.

And please note the 1:1 ratio is done in 4th gear, not third. But if you have a speed limiter, do the test in third. And I agree with cahiil55k, have the information displayed in SAE correction factors.

jangy

This isn't even worth discussing....

waaaay too many odd statements.

Prodigymb and benzoboi put it best.

izzyz28

It's easy to avoid kickdown, just don't smash your foot through the floor and depress the kickdown switch. Take a second or so to go full throttle and push the pedal all the way down to but not pressing the kickdown. You will still get 100% throttle and it'll stay in the gear you want if you have it in manual mode. Even on the street I can stick it in 5th gear at 1,500 RPM and go WOT without it downshifting.

cahiil55k

I'll try that after my next mod. I actually thought about putting a cap on the kickdown button as Alan suggested a long time ago, but that would prevent around 1/4" of pedal travel. I'm sure it just takes a little practice to not hit the button until higher revs.

FLSL55

It's all about IAT's. If you let the car sit before the dyno your IAT's would be past 130 and that's a bad thing for power. Just idling the car won't bring them down to acceptable levels even with a strong and healthy IC pump.

You need to drive the car around the block a few times and then keep the car running. Don't shut it off before the dyno.

Get a scanguage II to monitor your IAT's and timing.