I bought my E55 2 months ago, and shortly afterwards noticed that I lost power when using WOT for any length of time. After some research, I ordered a CM30 pump and replaced my OEM pump with this, however the problem still hasn't been resolved, the CM30 helps the supercharger re-engage sooner (presumably removed the heat soak quicker), but hasn't solve the problem.

I bought an OBD reader over the weekend and went out for some runs today with it to log IAT's. I am getting 60c with no load, and it hits 90-95c on a run from 40-100mph (that run started at 70c as already had used a bit of WOT beforehand). Its only about 5c ambient over here in the UK at the moment!

Any ideas on what is causing the problem, car is stock as is the intercooler, however I would expect the standard intercooler to keep up better with a stock car!!

air locks maybe? faulty IAT sensor? anything else to look out for?

many thanks

 

These engine are prone to heatsoak, but at 5degree C ambient temperatures, it sounds like something's wrong. I would suggest logging your ignition timing. Usually, we should see it retard the ignition prior to actual supercharger disengagement, just to make sure things occur in the correct order and the management system is ok.

But the first thing I would do, is bleed/re-bleed the cooling system to insure you have no bubbles, as bubbles = highly reduced distribution. I might go as far as temporarily applying 12V directly to the pump for a run, just to eliminate that as a problem. It almost sounds like your cooling system is not operating correctly...

Good luck dude.

 

Bleed the system a couple of time. CM30 can also go bad.

 

You still have a pump problem. 90-95 celcius is way too hot! Did you bleed the intercooler after installing pump? Search for a "how to".

^LOL you beat me to it!

 

just had a look at my IC plumbing. Dont know if its because mine is RHD, but the reservoir tank is on the opposite side of the car! either way, the plumbing seems to be a bit trickier to get to, but looks like bleeding is an easy enough DIY job.

timing seems to be retarding anywhere up to -28.

 

tried bleeding the intercooler today. the pressure I was getting through the system wasn't enough to push fluid down the hose back to the expansion tank. If i took the hose off the bleed nipple, it only pumped out about 1cm into the air? This seems very weak to me, is this potentially a knackered new CM30 pump? or is there anything else that might be the problem?

thanks

 

I had a similar issue on my SRT6. Replaced the IC pump, was still seeing S/C shutoff. The guys at Eurocharged and myself removed the ambient air temp sensor thinking it was the problem. Turned out we were right.

The ambient air sensor detects the ambient temp (duh) and if the sensor is faulty you it will be sending code to the ECU telling it that it is -40C outside AT ALL TIMES. This creates a huge issue when of course it is not.

When the temperature reads this low the ECU sends more fuel to the engine to increase the temp to maintain operating temps. However, if it is not in fact that cold outside then the engine just overheats excessively and does not operate with the normal temps of the S/C ( I think on my m112k engine the cutoff is 195F)

Try this in conjunction with a battery reset and see if this helps resolve

 

I know this is an old thread but can someone tell me where the ambient Air temp sensor is and does this sensor also supply the feed to the Aircon?

I feel my ambient temp is incorrect and also i seem to be using a lot of fuel.

 

CM30 is not good, I could feel difference of heat under the hood when I used the Meziere pump. Try it but make sure you get upgraded HE, it is not expensive to get another HE, after that you should look at your Fuel system (pump + Sender) and Sprak plugs and their wires.

If they the above are check, it is the time to move to the tune because it will fix a lot of problems for you.