Hey guys,
I'm trying to figure out what I should do.
I just shredded my Gates Supercharger belt while on the dyno. I got one pull in and on the second pull....shredded.
So I have 180mm pulley / Tune / 80mm tb / along with Pehnolic spacers both under the blower and above.
Upon installing the gates belt, my tech said he was barely able to get it on. Now I know that with both sets of spacers installed it will lift the blower snout. Could the spacers be the cause of this problem, and should I look into a different belt size? I thought there was someone with this issues years ago but I can't seem to find the thread.
Thanks for any input
I'm trying to figure out what I should do.
I just shredded my Gates Supercharger belt while on the dyno. I got one pull in and on the second pull....shredded.
So I have 180mm pulley / Tune / 80mm tb / along with Pehnolic spacers both under the blower and above.
Upon installing the gates belt, my tech said he was barely able to get it on. Now I know that with both sets of spacers installed it will lift the blower snout. Could the spacers be the cause of this problem, and should I look into a different belt size? I thought there was someone with this issues years ago but I can't seem to find the thread.
Thanks for any input
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That was me. How long have you had the belt on?
My problem ended up being an ASP pulley that was welded on backwards. I shredded God knows how many belts and pounded my engine bay with shreds before I finally sent the pulley back and had them tell me the bad news.
HOWEVER, ASP makes a killer pulley and as long as you have a newer ASP, you should be fine. Bet they NEVER make a mistake like that again. Not sure if you have an ASP or not.
Otherwise, if the belt is ultra tight, I wonder if it's wiggling a bit on you under high r's or even getting super hot.
Last thing. Sometimes if they are even one rib off on the pulleys, they can come off. It's hard to even see if it's one rib off, but it does happen and will cause her to walk off under high r's.
My problem ended up being an ASP pulley that was welded on backwards. I shredded God knows how many belts and pounded my engine bay with shreds before I finally sent the pulley back and had them tell me the bad news.
HOWEVER, ASP makes a killer pulley and as long as you have a newer ASP, you should be fine. Bet they NEVER make a mistake like that again. Not sure if you have an ASP or not.
Otherwise, if the belt is ultra tight, I wonder if it's wiggling a bit on you under high r's or even getting super hot.
Last thing. Sometimes if they are even one rib off on the pulleys, they can come off. It's hard to even see if it's one rib off, but it does happen and will cause her to walk off under high r's.
Jackpro,
Thanks for your response.
I have a brand new design from Eurocharged, and no one else seems to be having any issues with the Gates belt. I have had the pulley on for about 1,000 miles
Do you have any knowledge of the phenolics spacers having an adverse effect on the belt tension?
I'm unsure as to how I could notice if the belt is wiggling under higher RPM's?
When looking at the pulley at idle, it never looked like it was a rib off..but who knows. The belt shredded in half, it didn't walk off.
i'm waiting for my shop to get a new belt for me but I'm concerned that this will happen when I least suspect it.
Thanks for your input
Thanks for your response.
I have a brand new design from Eurocharged, and no one else seems to be having any issues with the Gates belt. I have had the pulley on for about 1,000 miles
Do you have any knowledge of the phenolics spacers having an adverse effect on the belt tension?
I'm unsure as to how I could notice if the belt is wiggling under higher RPM's?
When looking at the pulley at idle, it never looked like it was a rib off..but who knows. The belt shredded in half, it didn't walk off.
i'm waiting for my shop to get a new belt for me but I'm concerned that this will happen when I least suspect it.
Thanks for your input
Super Member
I don't know how thick the spacers are, but even if they're only 1/4" each, that will raise the blower 1/2", which will equate to roughly a 1" longer belt being needed. Since the tech said it was difficult to install, I'm going to assume that your tensioner is effectively locked at its limit and has 0 give. It needs to be able to move!
I ended up getting another gates belt that is the next size up. Part # is the same although ending in 25 instead of 14.
All seems good although I need to confirm if I am in fact feeling the belt slip. Another board member gave me an idea and that is to always keep an extra belt in the trunk in case this were to happen while on the road.
I'm going to try the Jaguar belt that some members have had good results with.
All seems good although I need to confirm if I am in fact feeling the belt slip. Another board member gave me an idea and that is to always keep an extra belt in the trunk in case this were to happen while on the road.
I'm going to try the Jaguar belt that some members have had good results with.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Quote:
All seems good although I need to confirm if I am in fact feeling the belt slip. Another board member gave me an idea and that is to always keep an extra belt in the trunk in case this were to happen while on the road.
I'm going to try the Jaguar belt that some members have had good results with.
I have now been through 2 SC belts (Gates). All bearings are good, and I also have the new Eurocharged/ASP pulley which appears to still be true. This seems to occur when I abruptly let off when in boost, perhaps making the tensioner oscillate a bit allowing for the the belt to move over. I am going to add an auxiliary tensioner to the setup.Originally Posted by Roseylv
I ended up getting another gates belt that is the next size up. Part # is the same although ending in 25 instead of 14. All seems good although I need to confirm if I am in fact feeling the belt slip. Another board member gave me an idea and that is to always keep an extra belt in the trunk in case this were to happen while on the road.
I'm going to try the Jaguar belt that some members have had good results with.
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shardul
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a local houston member had the same problem. since you have the heat spacers, it raises the s/c up by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. you will need a bigger belt and your problem will be solved. try the gates belt with the part number ending in 525
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Originally Posted by shardul
a local houston member had the same problem. since you have the heat spacers, it raises the s/c up by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. you will need a bigger belt and your problem will be solved. try the gates belt with the part number ending in 525
Quote:
I ended up getting another gates belt that is the next size up. Part # is the same although ending in 25 instead of 14.
He already didI ended up getting another gates belt that is the next size up. Part # is the same although ending in 25 instead of 14.
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I agree with you that the tensioner is what gives the slack when it whips. BUT, PLEASE do your research on adding a tensioner. I would DEFINITELY look into the OEM one and even adding some guides that won't allow the belt to deform when being whipped. BUT, you will change all of the bearing tension dynamics with the tensioner addition. TRUST me, and at least research. Short term, they work great. BUT, the rigidity TEARS other components up fast. Keep in mind the POWER that is being transfered when you do make the SC clutch whip like that? We are easily talking above 100hp. Right now, the belt is EASILY your weak link and the only way that the rest of the motor is separated from the motor. It (the belt) will shred / give before you do something bad. If a stiff connection was desired, we'd have chains by now and a tensioner that doesn't have a spring.Originally Posted by pearlpower
I have now been through 2 SC belts (Gates). All bearings are good, and I also have the new Eurocharged/ASP pulley which appears to still be true. This seems to occur when I abruptly let off when in boost, perhaps making the tensioner oscillate a bit allowing for the the belt to move over. I am going to add an auxiliary tensioner to the setup.
PLEASE make sure the belt setup has the tensioner with plenty of room to travel. If it is fully extended or barely tense, it will tend to hit the end guides and that will catapult your belt off. As long as the tensioner is allowed to travel, it can keep the rubber aligned.
As has been mentioned, the spacers push th eblower up a bit and you just need a longer belt which you already got. Enjoy 

Junior Member
hey guys not sure if this is the right area but my sc belt keeps slipping of i got a brand new one and after a few pulls it slips off. (stock engine)
i think the spring in the that thing u pull back to slip the belt in might have lost it tention?? any ideas ??
thanks
i think the spring in the that thing u pull back to slip the belt in might have lost it tention?? any ideas ??
thanks
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shardul
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Quote:
i think the spring in the that thing u pull back to slip the belt in might have lost it tention?? any ideas ??
thanks
yes seems like a tensioner issue. the part is about 200 bucks at the mb dealershipOriginally Posted by tarekc
hey guys not sure if this is the right area but my sc belt keeps slipping of i got a brand new one and after a few pulls it slips off. (stock engine)i think the spring in the that thing u pull back to slip the belt in might have lost it tention?? any ideas ??
thanks



