Originally Posted by Tech-Tune

beauphus, I think you've covered pretty much everything I've considered and altered.
The collaborated help of all member's should help pin point the problem which seems to be infecting many of our cars.

On a side note: Its good to see members chiming in to help remedy this ongoing issue we share.
There are many that are reluctant to publicly discuss this issue, but we should all work together to resolve it.

Originally Posted by beauphus

im convinced that this prob will never go away

Originally Posted by chiromikey

great! now what the hell is a "cam tuner", where do we get them, and why does it work???

Originally Posted by blackbenzz

And when will we see some track times?

Originally Posted by beauphus

pte could answer this better then me but I know it's made by a company called Split Second

Originally Posted by PTE

Hello: This thing is not need if you do not have a low vacuum at Idle & idle rolling situation. With The SLR grind I never saw any issues . Just make sure all vacuum hoses are tightly sealed & Manifold / T-body is absent of the same. anything lower than 17 " of Mercury. You will have some need, for this Tuner . This is not a DYI. you will need the ecu wiring schematic. I've sold over 20 sets of cams . I've had 3 known Idle issues. #1 was a crack in the 80mm welded on adaptor plate where it meets the Manifold. #2 was on an older 500 motor were the ecu would not take adaptation well , and I could not phyiclly get to the Car (motor Had 80,000 miles) to see if I could resolve it , It is undersolved . #3 was Beauphus's. No Vacuum leaks Just lots of changes & Mods. But he was down around 15" of mercury. So The cam Tuner worked for him.

I would use a start setting of 8 & go lower if needed. I can build one if you would like . It would be around $250.00 to your door. Cheers _PTEngineering

Originally Posted by beauphus

I am going to describe my issues to the best of my ability. I find it hard to believe I am the only person who has had these issues, especially considering the amount of mods done to the 55k platform.

When I start my car it has a rougher idle then most because of the cams which is fine. When I put the car into gear all is generally well with the car too. After I have given the car some gas and created boost once the car drops back down to idle range or low throttle I get an EXTREMELY rough idle (sometimes to the point of engine shutoff) and once I come to a stop te car surges and jumps back and forth as though I am at a traffic light enticing someone to race me. It is completely uncontrollable and if I give it gas it sputters and sometimes pulls out of this behavior at higher rpms and other times it stays rough and unresponsive. If I cycle the key off and then on it generally goes away and operates fine.

I have replaced the MAP sensor to no avail and am scratching my head as to what could be casing this. some have said my cams are too aggressive - but if that were the case other with the VRP/PTE cams would have similar symptoms I assume. Others have mentioned that I could have a faulty throttle body or idle air control valve. There has been tons of speculation. Funny thing is when the car is in this weird possessed mode it is amazingly powerful and fast as hell.

Has anyone experienced symptoms like I have described? Thanks for the help!!

Originally Posted by bassn_07

I have very similar conditions with my car right now due to a faulty 02. I used my datalogger to check the current conditions of my 02 sensor. From what I understand the voltage of a healthy reading 02 sensor should cycle between .02-.8 several times a second. My sensor 1 bank 1 does this exact thing but my sensor 1 bank 2 is stuck at .045, at least the last time I looked at it. This causes my car to run extremely rich with a very bad idle. All your symptoms seem similar except I have a rough idle from start up.

Hopes this helps.

Originally Posted by hooleyboy

P0155 code is directly related to the extensions of the 02 sensors. To run the setup you have, your o2 wires were extended. When I say extended, I mean the o2 sensor/wire was cut and butt connected back together. Then wrapped in electrical tape?

I've seen this 4 times now. Replacing the o2 sensors might not fix the problem. Its my understanding the butt connecting the o2 sensor wire, causes 1 of 2 things to happen. 1) a bigtime resistance issue. 2) a short circuit some place between the ECU and extended 02 sensor.

After some folks stopping by the shop, who are running similar o2 extension setups as you. The first move would be to replace both o2 sensors. Then extend the wiring harness side rather then physically cutting/splicing an o2 sensor.

As far as I know, the correct way to extend the o2's is not 100% fixing the issue. That lead me to believe a short has occurred with the old setup. Where that short is is unknown to me at this point. So with that said the heater code will come back even after replacing the old o2's.

Just know that your not the only one who is having this issue. I am just about 100% sure it has to do with your placement of your o2's in your exhaust system.

if you are going to replace the front o2's. I would try extending the harness side rather than cutting the o2's. If that doesnt work, I would look at the PCM connectors or all the way up to the ECU. Hope this helps you out a bit.