Why not give it a go in its current configuration?
Ought to be a solid eleven-second machine that’s able to get ‘round Willow Springs in less than 1:35.xx.

 

Hey dude, you get an A+ for effort that's for sure.

For whatever reason the paths we both took lead to failure and excessive cost. Call it what it is but at some point you need to draw a line and stop spending. You could probably spend another $20K chasing Max Power, but is it really worth it?

At this point just suck it up and get a safe decent tune and call it a day. Run the F out of it like that and start to enjoy it like it is for what it is.

+1

 

Robert,

I only feel obliged to post as what you have written is not accurate.

It is disappointing that you would choose to characterize our work in this manner. You know that we have 50%+ more time in your car than we billed you for. Truly, no good deed goes unpunished I guess.

For the record, your car has major issues. The quality or work done and the parts chosen leave you in a bad position. Additionally, your engine was on FIRE.

As we discussed and I showed you, your entire engine harness was melted. There are frayed wires, exposed wires, melted connectors, etc. You NEED an engine harness to fix all the electrical problems, but seem reluctant to accept that and buy one.

Specifically, the $2400 for an alternator is totally BS. That included diagnostics and repairs of parts of the wiring harness, fixing the melted plugs on the alternator (as the new plug would not fit on the harness as the plastic was melted from your fire), leak down/compression tests, valve cover gasket, diagnosing for multiple vacuum leaks and repairing as we found them, etc. This was a significant amount of work

When you left that car was running better then ever you stated, and I personally drove it. Even in this post, you say the car is running fine! Well, it was not running fine when it came to us, and now it is running fine, yet you still have "lost confidence" - this I am confused by. If it is because we will not fix it "cheap" and "dirty" then I agree we should part ways. This is not going to help you or us.

I spent HOURS with you on the phone and in person discussing options and the condition of the car.

You left saying you were going to do more work, if you had "lost trust" why would you not contact me?

It is sad, but it seems that this is a continual problem with you. You seem to have expectations that are unrealistic. You want someone to repair your car QUICK, yet it has problems you wont repair and you are asking people that (1) did not build it and (2) don't do things in the manner in which your car was built. This is an untenable situation. It takes time to diagnose, undo all the work that is not up to acceptable levels, then start fresh to achieve your goal.

 

Unfortunately the situation that Robert's is in right now happens all the time especially with small or relatively new tuners. They come into the market promising higher power levels at cheaper cost claiming they're the best in the business. However, 99% of the time, the work done ends up being sub-par, deadlines extended, and goals never met - all while squeezing more and more money out of the customer in the process. In the end, the customer ends-up spending a lot more money than if he/she would've spent had they went with a bigger and more reputable tuner.

That being said, I still think Robert should not give up. His car has potential. Ahmad's car is evidence of that. He is able to consistently run 10s with less mods and relatively low boost in an older platform.

 

Lol thanks. Send me the car with the amoutn of money you gave Vadim and I would give you back a 10s car. Oh fix that wire harness first. I will even give you a 10s time slip back with the car

 

As Robert previously posted, the shoddy install by Vadim w/Injector/fuel/lines/pump etc = near Pyromaniac barn burner under hood while on the Dyno that almost took the Dyno shop down w/it. I can't believe you haven't replaced the "Kentucky Fried" wiring harness yet STILL trying to proceed w/final tuning & MAX boost.

I said this to someone else regarding your car, it's too poignant not to repeat. Brad, "Let the ship finally sink in someone else's harbor."

After hearing Evosports side & reflecting back on Roberts history w/ALL tuners, he's obviously been thru literal hell n' back w/Vadim alone & now @ wits/monies END w/Christine errr whatever he calls her @ this point...

Burn it TWICE, ditch it, it wont die (as long as you keep throwing $$$ into her that is) Drive the **** outta it in present form, or let it go for crying out loud

 

Ok. In your defense you did some additional work besides just replacing the alternator but everytime I get into my car and see that red light on, i get red in the face. You told me to drive it around awhile and it will go away but as of my lunch hour it was still on. A new wire harness has nothing to do with that error code for high manifold pressure according to Vadim who delivered the car to me without that code. He also said that the fire in the engine was near the fire wall and did no damage to the wire harness and suggested something about racking up the bill. I'm not saying I believe him either but all I know is I can't seem to get to second base even with a major tuner like yourselves.

 

What you've posted in great detail just a few months ago?? in late April of this year below...

You contradict yourself to the point of LUNACY WTF...

 

Robert, the only reply I have is that you most certainly know who to believe. We spent the time showing you the wires on the FRONT of the motor that were burned, frayed, fire hardened and missing the sheathing. We looked over the flawed exaust work. We discussed the "hot" air intake. Again, you and I both know that you do really know what to believe even if it is hard to accept.

I told you it MAY go away an it may never go away with that harness. As the harness is so mangled it is impossible to diagnose any individual sensor issues.

I have a new sensor for you here as I told you. But in my attempt to save you money we did not sell it to you until we had more info to know if that was needed.

I am empathetic for you. But when you start to bash my business without telling nearly all the facts I take issue.

Thanks
Brad

 

Fair enough. I will call you to take care the the CEL once and for all even if it takes a new wire harness to do it. But afterwards, how confident are you that provided all the issues have been addressed that this car can be tuned to run on 1bar PSI and still drive like stock on the streets and run low 10's in the quarter with drag radials, long tubes and a 100 shot of nitrous?

Edit: I just noticed some fresh oil stains on my driveway. I think the head gasket you installed is starting to leak again.

One more thing. The "Hot" Air intake is made of Stainless Steel which reflects almost all of the heat away instead of letting it enter the air pathway. This comes from an automotive engineer with 25+years of experience who has worked at the big 4 for decades although I don't know if what Vadim insisted upon is true either.

 

I don't usually drink beer but when I do I prefer Dos Equis.

 

Stay thirsty my friends

 

YOU need to start listening to people that know what they are talking about. I've had my differences with Brad before but not regarding his expertise on modding.

If you want a car that can run at least 1 bar PSI and drive like stock etc run low 10s ... get a porsche turbo and mod that. Your asking way too much of that C class platform.

 

The guy that posted right above you was .1 second away from breaking the overall MB 1/4 mile record with the same platform and only running about .5 bar with No Nitrous so it is very possible.

I just want to break that record one way or another and move on to another platform. My mission is to make the impossible possible whatever it takes.

As I said before...Either I break the overall record or I break the car completely and call it a day and I want to do this before March of 2011. Because I'm basically going to sell this car out of state before the CA smog inspection date comes due by September 2011.

 

For God's sake, don't set anymore dates!!!

 

That's the drop dead date for me as my car has to pass smog by Sept and I don't plan on putting it back to stock just to pass the strict CA emissions test.

 

You don't have to go back to stock to pass smog

If you're planning on breaking any records in March, don't count on it being in a California track. In March, most tracks here are in the 80 F range if not higher unless you don't mind a 1500 to 2000 ft of DA disadvantage (not saying it is not possible to break records at that DA but your runs won't be optimum). Or you can always try an MIR track rental, which (luckily for you) they always happen to have one in March as well.

Optimum conditions for California tracks are usually from November to January (and in very rare cases February). So if you are still planning to break the MB record in California, try to aim for November/December.

 

0.01s in positive DA

You want to break the record then just buy my car. It will break the current overall record in decent DA

 

That would be too easy. I want to suffer and bang my head against a wall just a bit longer. but if you break it and the car is not broken afterwards we can talk.

Besides I guarantee the Cavs will win a Championship before Lebron does.

 

Ok have fun. Lol if the record doesn't move from where it is now come fall/winter time that record will be mine. And I back my words up.

My money says you're wrong

 

Dude - you sound like the biggest nightmare customer EVER. I wouldnt work on your car if you agreed to pay $10k/hr.