DIY: Supercharger oil refilling
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Eastern WV / Central MD
'05 E55, ‘00 ML55, ‘92 500E
Also, is it possible to buy the Rheotemp 500 through Nye as a common person? I guess I could just put where I work and have it shipped there but is there any other means of purchase?
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Houston Tx
2002 c32
So there is nothing sealing the bearings? When the S/C is engaged does the flow of air go through the bearings? Reason I ask if if air does flow through, how long will the new grease last till it's blown off? And for those that do not have a catch can for oil ingestion, is the oil actually "lubricating" the bearing when it gets sucked in?
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: DownEast Maine
CLS 55 AMG E500 ML320
The bearings are well shielded, mine still had grease at 100K, but there was a residue of ultrafine grit on the backside of my S/C snout. It looked like ripples in sand, but barley noticeable as darker lines.
The car had K&N's when I got it at 50k. I held them up to the sun when I was cleaning them, and decided they were too open. Replaced with OEM. Now I'm thinking that was a wise decision.
The car had K&N's when I got it at 50k. I held them up to the sun when I was cleaning them, and decided they were too open. Replaced with OEM. Now I'm thinking that was a wise decision.
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2003 Mercedes Benz E55 Kompressor
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 414
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From: Victoria, Australia
04 E55
Any updates from anyone on when the bearings are arriving? If they have been made? Any other replacements? I'll be taking my blower off in the coming months and would like to either replace or regressed my tears as I'm now at 140km/85m.
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 503
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From: South Africa
2004 CLK55 AMG W209
Old post on the loss of the tiny threaded plug but since some are using straight allen keys or angled ball type or stuffing in rags and whatever, I'd use a rag as well. To be extra safe, before starting this service, take a length of electrical wire maybe 2mm thick or 3mm. Wrap it around the length of the allen key ensuring there isn't much spacing between the wounds, as well as maintaining decent length on the outer ends of the allen key. Once done, just use a good charged battery that is not connected to anything and just TOUCH the two ends of that wire as it is wounded on the allen key to the positive and negative terminals of a well charged battery. As I mentioned just touch it twice or thrice but keep your face away and wear gloves when doing this. You will have a magnetic allen key that should stay magnetised for a good half hour maybe or more.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
The Bering part number posted above is common for alternator.
The Inner race adapter is special along with the inner seal. When internal lubrication is present the inner shield of the bearing can be pried out and away. But this shield is in place without sealing. hmmm!!!
The internal shield is for oil containment and drainage for oil circulation.
Very Informative thread gents, Lets keep it up.
Best, Gator
PS: An alternator bearing sells for around $2.00
The Inner race adapter is special along with the inner seal. When internal lubrication is present the inner shield of the bearing can be pried out and away. But this shield is in place without sealing. hmmm!!!
The internal shield is for oil containment and drainage for oil circulation.
Very Informative thread gents, Lets keep it up.
Best, Gator
PS: An alternator bearing sells for around $2.00
Last edited by GatorMB; Mar 28, 2016 at 05:08 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 9
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From: Puerto Rico
2006 E55, 2010 ML350
Drain plug
how do you get that SC drain plug back in????
Interesting stuff on the rear bearings. Any chance you have the dimensions?
I also wanted to post that I found a real easy way to drain the SC oil. I didn't get much out using a syringe the first time, so I picked up a Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html $30
Sucked out all the old oil in no time. I could easily do a drain and fill in 15 minutes now.
I also wanted to post that I found a real easy way to drain the SC oil. I didn't get much out using a syringe the first time, so I picked up a Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html $30
Sucked out all the old oil in no time. I could easily do a drain and fill in 15 minutes now.
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
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From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Sorry Folks,
Alternator bearings are all common numbers from the past, 3200 series etc..
I have used the 6203 bearings in industrial three phase motor applications. At one time they were around $2.00 a piece. About 16 years ago.
The bearing thread has been moved and renamed. This remains SC Oil change thread.
All the Best, Gator
Alternator bearings are all common numbers from the past, 3200 series etc..
I have used the 6203 bearings in industrial three phase motor applications. At one time they were around $2.00 a piece. About 16 years ago.
The bearing thread has been moved and renamed. This remains SC Oil change thread.
All the Best, Gator
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 698
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From: Germany
C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Sorry Folks,
Alternator bearings are all common numbers from the past, 3200 series etc..
I have used the 6203 bearings in industrial three phase motor applications. At one time they were around $2.00 a piece. About 16 years ago.
The bearing thread has been moved and renamed. This remains SC Oil change thread.
All the Best, Gator
Alternator bearings are all common numbers from the past, 3200 series etc..
I have used the 6203 bearings in industrial three phase motor applications. At one time they were around $2.00 a piece. About 16 years ago.
The bearing thread has been moved and renamed. This remains SC Oil change thread.
All the Best, Gator
These are roller bearing types, we need. But lets continue here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ng-source.html
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 17
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1998 SL600, 2004 C32 AMG (sold)
Hey guys, sorry to up a 8 month old thread, but there is a wealth of information here. Just popped over from the C32 section.
2 quick questions:
1. What is the best way to remove the dust caps covering the inner bearings? Do I need to remove the front section of the supercharger (pulling out the rotors?) or can they be removed some other way? I don't want to damage them by prying them off.
2. When I look within on of the rotors (the one that is hollow!) there is a grey paste. What do you suspect that is from? Metal shavings gathering? I can post pictures if that would be more helpful. I'm currently waiting on new gaskets, and I thought I'd do some preventative maintenance if possible while i'm in there.
2 quick questions:
1. What is the best way to remove the dust caps covering the inner bearings? Do I need to remove the front section of the supercharger (pulling out the rotors?) or can they be removed some other way? I don't want to damage them by prying them off.
2. When I look within on of the rotors (the one that is hollow!) there is a grey paste. What do you suspect that is from? Metal shavings gathering? I can post pictures if that would be more helpful. I'm currently waiting on new gaskets, and I thought I'd do some preventative maintenance if possible while i'm in there.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 329
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From: Virginia, USA
2005 c230
general question: why do people apologize for posting a question/inquiry in a thread that has tons of helpful info? Isnt it MUCH preferred to continue to have that relevant and ongoing information in the same thread, vs creating entirely new threads?
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,187
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From: Santa Clara, Ca
2003 SL55 / 2002 SLK32
Hey guys, sorry to up a 8 month old thread, but there is a wealth of information here. Just popped over from the C32 section.
2 quick questions:
1. What is the best way to remove the dust caps covering the inner bearings? Do I need to remove the front section of the supercharger (pulling out the rotors?) or can they be removed some other way? I don't want to damage them by prying them off.
2. When I look within on of the rotors (the one that is hollow!) there is a grey paste. What do you suspect that is from? Metal shavings gathering? I can post pictures if that would be more helpful. I'm currently waiting on new gaskets, and I thought I'd do some preventative maintenance if possible while i'm in there.
2 quick questions:
1. What is the best way to remove the dust caps covering the inner bearings? Do I need to remove the front section of the supercharger (pulling out the rotors?) or can they be removed some other way? I don't want to damage them by prying them off.
2. When I look within on of the rotors (the one that is hollow!) there is a grey paste. What do you suspect that is from? Metal shavings gathering? I can post pictures if that would be more helpful. I'm currently waiting on new gaskets, and I thought I'd do some preventative maintenance if possible while i'm in there.
Can't say for sure if all of the M113k info is applicable to the M112k SC, but I suspect it is relative to your questions.
1) Yes, you need to remove the rotors (twin screws). You should not even consider removing a dust shield for access.
see here https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6624860
Your bearing refill need to be thoughtful (it is in no way like "packing" front wheel bearing). Here is some info on how they should be filled (that I have come to believe, based on conversations with the bearing manufacturer) .
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6618169
Upon closer inspection, I think you will find all of this info and more is actually in this thread.
2) I suspect the gray goo is oil from your crankcase breather system (that is introduced at the throttle-body); its presence is normal, the volume you are finding might not be however. ... Worth checking, is under your engine oil fill cap; if you have gray goo there as well, then we are probably talking about a coolant breach which is NOT normal (head gasket, etc).
Hope that helps,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; Jan 9, 2017 at 10:51 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
1998 SL600, 2004 C32 AMG (sold)
I thought the same : ) it is not like this is a thread that has been idle for 9 years ... it is still a current topic, and I think this is still the current thread.
No need to apologize for the bump ... this is still a relevant thread
Can't say for sure if all of the M113k info is applicable to the M112k SC, but I suspect it is relative to your questions.
1) Yes, you need to remove the rotors (twin screws). You should not even consider removing a dust shield for access.
see here https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6624860
Your bearing refill need to be thoughtful (it is in no way like "packing" front wheel bearing). Here is some info on how they should be filled (that I have come to believe, based on conversations with the bearing manufacturer) .
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6618169
Upon closer inspection, I think you will find all of this info and more is actually in this thread.
2) I suspect the gray goo is oil from your crankcase breather system (that is introduced at the throttle-body); its presence is normal, the volume you are finding might not be however. ... Worth checking, is under your engine oil fill cap; if you have gray goo there as well, then we are probably talking about a coolant breach which is NOT normal (head gasket, etc).
Hope that helps,
Chris
No need to apologize for the bump ... this is still a relevant thread
Can't say for sure if all of the M113k info is applicable to the M112k SC, but I suspect it is relative to your questions.
1) Yes, you need to remove the rotors (twin screws). You should not even consider removing a dust shield for access.
see here https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6624860
Your bearing refill need to be thoughtful (it is in no way like "packing" front wheel bearing). Here is some info on how they should be filled (that I have come to believe, based on conversations with the bearing manufacturer) .
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6618169
Upon closer inspection, I think you will find all of this info and more is actually in this thread.
2) I suspect the gray goo is oil from your crankcase breather system (that is introduced at the throttle-body); its presence is normal, the volume you are finding might not be however. ... Worth checking, is under your engine oil fill cap; if you have gray goo there as well, then we are probably talking about a coolant breach which is NOT normal (head gasket, etc).
Hope that helps,
Chris
Thank you for the links. I mostly want to inspect the bearings to see if they are dry or full of contaminants. However, I'm just hesitant about removing the rotors on a SC that sounds ok when spinning. It's the trade off of doing something preventative vs 'if it ain't broke' kind of mentality.
Does the front snout have RTV as the sealant? There is no gasket listed for the front as far as I remember. I still have MB RTV from the valve cover gasket work I did previously. (quick edit: I saw your post a few pages earlier, mentioning something about a front gasket. If it's not RTV, then I would be worried about ruining that seal with no replacement available).
I haven't seen any oil in the coolant system (oil cap is clean, oil looks good). I did have an intercooler leak (1L/1000KM), but I don't believe that would contribute to this grey goo, since the leak is at the air outlet of the intercooler. Additionally, there is no contaminant on the rotors themselves, just the inside. I'll open it back up tonight and take a picture, just for further analysis.
I appreciate the insight!
Last edited by Maverick32; Jan 9, 2017 at 11:35 AM.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 239
From: Santa Clara, Ca
2003 SL55 / 2002 SLK32
I think it's more of a Canadian thing! haha.
Hey Chris,
Thank you for the links. I mostly want to inspect the bearings to see if they are dry or full of contaminants. However, I'm just hesitant about removing the rotors on a SC that sounds ok when spinning. It's the trade off of doing something preventative vs 'if it ain't broke' kind of mentality.
Does the front snout have RTV as the sealant? There is no gasket listed for the front as far as I remember. I still have MB RTV from the valve cover gasket work I did previously. (quick edit: I saw your post a few pages earlier, mentioning something about a front gasket. If it's not RTV, then I would be worried about ruining that seal with no replacement available).
I haven't seen any oil in the coolant system (oil cap is clean, oil looks good). I did have an intercooler leak (1L/1000KM), but I don't believe that would contribute to this grey goo, since the leak is at the air outlet of the intercooler. Additionally, there is no contaminant on the rotors themselves, just the inside. I'll open it back up tonight and take a picture, just for further analysis.
I appreciate the insight!
Hey Chris,
Thank you for the links. I mostly want to inspect the bearings to see if they are dry or full of contaminants. However, I'm just hesitant about removing the rotors on a SC that sounds ok when spinning. It's the trade off of doing something preventative vs 'if it ain't broke' kind of mentality.
Does the front snout have RTV as the sealant? There is no gasket listed for the front as far as I remember. I still have MB RTV from the valve cover gasket work I did previously. (quick edit: I saw your post a few pages earlier, mentioning something about a front gasket. If it's not RTV, then I would be worried about ruining that seal with no replacement available).
I haven't seen any oil in the coolant system (oil cap is clean, oil looks good). I did have an intercooler leak (1L/1000KM), but I don't believe that would contribute to this grey goo, since the leak is at the air outlet of the intercooler. Additionally, there is no contaminant on the rotors themselves, just the inside. I'll open it back up tonight and take a picture, just for further analysis.
I appreciate the insight!
Cheers,
Chris
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
1998 SL600, 2004 C32 AMG (sold)
Ok good to know. For whatever reason both Chrome and Safari don't let me open pictures on this forum (comes up as a black screen).
But I see how you removed the front snout, while leaving the gearbox area still sealed.
I will just be careful when opening it up to avoid any tears.
I will post an update tonight. Thanks Chris!
But I see how you removed the front snout, while leaving the gearbox area still sealed.
I will just be careful when opening it up to avoid any tears.
I will post an update tonight. Thanks Chris!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 239
From: Santa Clara, Ca
2003 SL55 / 2002 SLK32
Ok good to know. For whatever reason both Chrome and Safari don't let me open pictures on this forum (comes up as a black screen).
But I see how you removed the front snout, while leaving the gearbox area still sealed.
I will just be careful when opening it up to avoid any tears.
I will post an update tonight. Thanks Chris!
But I see how you removed the front snout, while leaving the gearbox area still sealed.
I will just be careful when opening it up to avoid any tears.
I will post an update tonight. Thanks Chris!
Cheers,
Chris
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
1998 SL600, 2004 C32 AMG (sold)
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
1998 SL600, 2004 C32 AMG (sold)
I attempted to, briefly, to open the front of the SC, but decided against it for now. It's pretty cold outside (about 5F, and about 25 in the garage), so I didn't want to risk breaking a bolt, or something else. I think I will wait until the spring to give it another go, should I believe it needs it.
The rotors spin freely, and completely silently. The rattle I was hearing must be coming from the loose clutch plate.
I opened the rear part of the SC again. The contaminant within the rotor veins was not goopy, but rather a solid stuck to the inside. I managed to gingery scrape it off with a plastic tool, and vacuumed all the pieces out with a small tube. Luckily they came off in rather large chunks.
The pieces are slightly magnetic, with the consistency of wet chalk. Thoughts on whether it is still the oil contaminant?
The rotors spin freely, and completely silently. The rattle I was hearing must be coming from the loose clutch plate.
I opened the rear part of the SC again. The contaminant within the rotor veins was not goopy, but rather a solid stuck to the inside. I managed to gingery scrape it off with a plastic tool, and vacuumed all the pieces out with a small tube. Luckily they came off in rather large chunks.
The pieces are slightly magnetic, with the consistency of wet chalk. Thoughts on whether it is still the oil contaminant?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 100
From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
It could be rotor seals,
I have not opened the supercharger but the looks of that is either PCV sluge or a vein of one of the rotors is coming apart.
The supercharger spins free and bearings feel good then a de-coke of all the crankcase piping is required.
really looks like EGR passages of most modern engines but the W211 has no EGR. But some do have an auxiliary air pump that feeds extra exhaust and oxygen under peak load and engine start up. Burns off excess CO.
You could send it to an oil analyst company that un compounds things so to speak. Not expensive.
The least likely would be a cavitated crankcase pipe that is spilling into the blower.
Best to discover the origin before damaging anything.
Gator
I have not opened the supercharger but the looks of that is either PCV sluge or a vein of one of the rotors is coming apart.
The supercharger spins free and bearings feel good then a de-coke of all the crankcase piping is required.
really looks like EGR passages of most modern engines but the W211 has no EGR. But some do have an auxiliary air pump that feeds extra exhaust and oxygen under peak load and engine start up. Burns off excess CO.
You could send it to an oil analyst company that un compounds things so to speak. Not expensive.
The least likely would be a cavitated crankcase pipe that is spilling into the blower.
Best to discover the origin before damaging anything.
Gator
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
1998 SL600, 2004 C32 AMG (sold)
It could be rotor seals,
I have not opened the supercharger but the looks of that is either PCV sluge or a vein of one of the rotors is coming apart.
The supercharger spins free and bearings feel good then a de-coke of all the crankcase piping is required.
really looks like EGR passages of most modern engines but the W211 has no EGR. But some do have an auxiliary air pump that feeds extra exhaust and oxygen under peak load and engine start up. Burns off excess CO.
You could send it to an oil analyst company that un compounds things so to speak. Not expensive.
The least likely would be a cavitated crankcase pipe that is spilling into the blower.
Best to discover the origin before damaging anything.
Gator
I have not opened the supercharger but the looks of that is either PCV sluge or a vein of one of the rotors is coming apart.
The supercharger spins free and bearings feel good then a de-coke of all the crankcase piping is required.
really looks like EGR passages of most modern engines but the W211 has no EGR. But some do have an auxiliary air pump that feeds extra exhaust and oxygen under peak load and engine start up. Burns off excess CO.
You could send it to an oil analyst company that un compounds things so to speak. Not expensive.
The least likely would be a cavitated crankcase pipe that is spilling into the blower.
Best to discover the origin before damaging anything.
Gator
It could be oil mix with super-fine shavings, or something getting blown into the rotor hollow. I think you're right, that I will have to send it to a lab to get it checked out.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,187
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From: Santa Clara, Ca
2003 SL55 / 2002 SLK32
My inclination is that it's not part of the rotors. This was removed from the hollow of the yellow rotor, but the portion that faces the air inlet. It's definitely a deposit. Keep in mind this is not from a w211, but a w203, if that makes any difference (I'm just piggybacking off this thread because it has a significant wealth of SC knowledge not in the w203 section). I believe the secondary air pump sends air directly into the engine, by-passing the SC via some valves that sit in front of the SC.
It could be oil mix with super-fine shavings, or something getting blown into the rotor hollow. I think you're right, that I will have to send it to a lab to get it checked out.
It could be oil mix with super-fine shavings, or something getting blown into the rotor hollow. I think you're right, that I will have to send it to a lab to get it checked out.
I tend to suspect that it is as you have guessed, from the crankcase. I like the idea of having it checked out by a lab. It seems like an excessive amount of material to be coming from the crankcase, did you mention the mileage on the motor already? (didn't notice). Did you take a pic when it was still on/in the rotor hollow?
I just went out to my shop and pulled an M112k SC off the shelf that I removed at about 140,000 miles (input shaft failure) and as you can see, there is very little, if any, accumulation in the rotor hollows (and the snout is pretty clean as well).
On a side note, hadn't looked at the intake side of an m112k SC in a while and now I see why you were asking about dust shields (I assumed you were talking about the shields that are integral to the bearing) ... I would still say that they probably should be left in place and the rotor/gearbox assy should be withdrawn when you get to re-greasing the bearings.
Hope that helps....
and do keep us updated,
Chris
