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It's actually not that hard, just a little time consuming. Going by memory here...
-Drain s/c coolant (disconnect the hose coming from bottom of heat exchanger)
-Remove air boxes and Y-pipe
-Remove surge tanks (7 bolts + 1 rubber boot that connects to inlet for each tank)
-Unplug fuel injectors
-Disconnect fuel rail (have rags/paper towels handy)
-Remove the four bolts that hold the rail down
-Pull the rail and 8 injectors for inspect & clean time
-Unplug MAP sensor, IAT sensor, TB, & bypass valve. The cables for the TB & bypass valve can be interchanged. I used blue tape on both parts of the bypass valve connector for ID.
-Remove s/c belt (17mm box wrench for the tensioner)
-Remove metal tube going into back right side of s/c inlet.
-Pull those rubber tubes on the front of the s/c
-Remove the 8 or 10 bolts holding down the supercharger (down around where the fuel injector holes are). It takes a fairly large Torx bit.
-Move the air injector canisters off to the side, taking note of what hoses needed to be disconnected. Be mindful of the small metal gaskets on the bottom of each canister. They are reuseable.
-Lift front of supercharger and prop it up. I have a short piece of a 2x4 that works great.
-Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intercooler.
-Lift the supercharger up and away from the car. Keep the front tilted up because the intercooler will still have water in it that will pour out if you don't. Keep in mind this thing weighs like 75 lbs, so unless you have massively muscular arms like Denroll, it might be a 2-man lift.
-Get those gaskets, then tape up the engine intakes so **** doesn't fall into your engine. Also a good time to see if your valves have excess carbon buildup.
It sounds a lot worse than it is. I can go from hood closed to supercharger on my workbench in an hour. Take pictures as you go in case you forget what goes where.
S/C oil change ..... what about the rear two bearings manteinance ?
I just did this service to the S/C , but also cleaned the two rear bearings form the S/C and then greased the two rear bearings wich is the main cause of s/c fail .
Hey , did you greased the two rear bearings ? that's the main cause of s/c fail . This two bearings are not replaceable . You cannot buy them . Once they get bad , the complete supercharger is ruin ....
I had the engine apart for a routine rebuild, so I decided to take the time to replace the oil in the supercharger as well. It was pretty straight forward, and it has been done a few times by some members here. I figured that 50K miles of gear-mashing mayhem was worthy of freshing up the lube.
Again, I had the supercharger off of the engine for part of this so the emptying part was easier I'm sure. I've heard of people using syringes with hoses like I used to literally suck the old oil out. That should work pretty well too.
On with the show:
Here is the oil inlet/drain. Standard Allen plug...no hanky-panky:
With the supercharger off, I was able to just tip and drain the oil out. Again, this was the easiest way possible...but sucking it out would work well too:
Mobil Jet Oil II is the recommended oil for the supercharger. I got it off of an aviation supply web site (www.airplaneoil.com). I ordered two quarts just because I had no idea how much it would take. I used less than one quart.
I bought a syringe from a local farm supply house and some small flexible hose. I think the syringe was intended for cows or enimas or something. It was an appropriate size (35cc). and wasn't overly large or small. The can is weird...like a soup can. I opted to just punch a hole in it versus trying to "open" it.
I packed some shop rags down below the hole and continued to suck and fill until it oozed back out the drain plug I removed. It didn't take much to fill...probably less than half a quart. There was quite a difference in color and smell so I'm glad I opted to pull the old oil out.
Basic stuff and pretty straight forward.
Enjoy!
I just did this service to the S/C , but also cleaned the two rear bearings form the S/C and then greased the two rear bearings wich is the main cause of s/c fail
I used the redline cv-2 grease http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82
SKF has this type of grease too.
When I opened the S/C found that the two rear bearings were completely dried and with no grease . This could be the same case for every car with 40k miles or more due to the heat .
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by mega4174
I used the redline cv-2 grease http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82
SKF has this type of grease too.
When I opened the S/C found that the two rear bearings were completely dried and with no grease . This could be the same case for every car with 40k miles or more due to the heat .
I cant find any mention anywhere of this being a necessary procedure or even attempted. Please provide more information...?
Hello ,
You won't find any information about this . Is pure logic . This two rear bearings are just like any bearing and needs grease to work fine and last. When I opened the supercharger and found this two rear bearings completely dried , cleaned them first ( To avoid chemical reaction between two types of grease) and I did greased them the best I could using CV-2 redline hi-temp grease. This two rear bearings are not replaceable.You can't buy them. If they fail, the supercharger is over . I'm planning to do this every 30k miles due to the effect that heat produces on this two rear bearings . Please check the following video and see what happens when this two rear bearings fail (also read the comments on you tube ) :
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by mega4174
Hello ,
You won't find any information about this . Is pure logic . This two rear bearings are just like any bearing and needs grease to work fine and last. When I opened the supercharger and found this two rear bearings completely dried , cleaned them first ( To avoid chemical reaction between two types of grease) and I did greased them the best I could using CV-2 redline hi-temp grease. This two rear bearings are not replaceable.You can't buy them. If they fail, the supercharger is over . I'm planning to do this every 20k miles due to the effect that heat produces on this two rear bearings .
and...
1. "cleaned them first ( To avoid chemical reaction between two types of grease)"
Cleaned with what and how? Degreaser and a toothbrush? Mr Sheen?
2. "and I did greased them the best I could"
How? Do I just slap it on the outside and squeeze it in the crevices?
After 56k miles, the rear s/c bearings have almost no grease from the factory .I did open the s/c uninstall the axles (wich works as the core of the bearings) and bam! found that mine's were completely dried = friction. I cleaned the bearings with a degreaser ( you can use thinner, mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol with a small toothbrush for example), but be sure not to use water. You want to remove the little particles ( almost nothing ) of the old grease.
Then you let it dry for a couple of minutes and apply the new fresh grease slapping the grease until this gets to the deepest areas of the bearing .
You will give a new life to the bearings and the supercharger indeed .
We just pay attention to the front bearing, but nobody thinks about the two rear bearings and the whole supercharger depends on the life of these since are not replaceable.
Mine is working now perfectly after some months .I refreshed the supercharger oil and greased the rear bearings . will repeat this every 30K miles
The bearings looks like this . Please notice that this two bearigs have no core . The propel axles are the core :
Interesting stuff on the rear bearings. Any chance you have the dimensions?
I also wanted to post that I found a real easy way to drain the SC oil. I didn't get much out using a syringe the first time, so I picked up a Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html $30
Sucked out all the old oil in no time. I could easily do a drain and fill in 15 minutes now.
I know some of this info was posted here, but if you follow some of the sub-links, there are some GREAT pics and info on the SC and changing the oil from that German website.
It looks like you only really want 150ml from empty (which is 1cm below the drain hole). Filling it up to the drain hole caused leakage through the bolt when I did mine.
This guy even has info on replacement drain plugs.
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by BagMan
I know some of this info was posted here, but if you follow some of the sub-links, there are some GREAT pics and info on the SC and changing the oil from that German website.
It looks like you only really want 150ml from empty (which is 1cm below the drain hole). Filling it up to the drain hole caused leakage through the bolt when I did mine.
This guy even has info on replacement drain plugs.
Some other interesting info on that site - says the 2007+ SL55 had a larger TB and more efficient SC from the factory.
Somer great information there Bagman. I have read that site on a few occasions now but the focus gets lost in the translation. Hadn't noticed the plugs before though, I don't reckon I've ever seen them available anywhere. At any rate my supercharger is out at the moment after slapping a fresh coat of paint on her a couple of days ago I guess tomorrow I'll be
Originally Posted by mega4174
slapping the grease until this gets to the deepest areas
not sure i understand why you can not remove the twin rotors and then push the bearing out with a press ?
they have to be able to be removed as they were not cast in place
not sure i understand why you can not remove the twin rotors and then push the bearing out with a press ?
they have to be able to be removed as they were not cast in place
The bearings come out as Mega posted above. Just not able to find suitable replacements (yet)
im going to dig in to those rear bearings too.. im sure they will love some new grease! Any better DYI info on this, i mean how to remove the bearings without anydamage being made to them
05-28-2015, 08:33 PM
