Sub draining the battery, shuts off..solutions?
01-19-2011, 06:45 PM
#26
Super Member
I run a Kinetik HC 2000. I have found with a drycell you have longer life when running high amp systems. Or add another MB style battery. But go to Sears and get the Die Hard version for 150 bucks vs 350 that MB charges.
01-25-2013, 02:25 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Chicago, IL
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2002 CLK 430
Please, PLEASE, I hope there is still some life left in this thread because it hits very close to a couple of questions on just what I have been asking for without previous luck!!!!!
Can anyone help me on this with:
1) Can I disconnect my factory amp in my current setup? I only ask because I think I'm on the fringe for power between being okay, and needing a bit more for everything to be okay. I'm not sure if the new head unit still taps the old amp for power, or if the speakers are run through in any filtering, etc, whereby they cut out if the amp is not powered. (and yes, I could just go and try it...though the possibility didn't occur until now, and it's -10 out now in Chicago, so dorking around with it isn't quite in my plans unless it's thought to be a viable solution)
2) Any suggestions on 2nd batteries, or other items which may help? It should be noted that I am running 0 gauge wire for the equipment (no, not from the alternator though, I know the big 3...it's not an over the top system so I didn't think this justified it....plus the exact same setup sans cap was flawless in an old Jetta, only now am I having very noticeable issues), and I think off the top of my head, I have the negative from the amp running to a block on the negative terminal on the battery (I saw that practice was argued against in above posts, but I did have this done at a well known pro shop, and I haven't read any prior posts which blame this grounding technique to dimming lights).
Some more info...
I have an aftermarket system in my w208 with the dreaded 'lights dimming' issue, noticeable on the dashboard. My alternator and battery are new (only temporarily helped the dimming issue following their replacement, though it is less so noticeable since being replaced), and I have hooked up a JVC Kameleon head unit with a Rockford Fosgate 1200 W amp powered off the car battery, 1F cap in between, and 2 12" Infinity subs. I don't crank on this thing given even with the bass down all the way, the lights still dim, and hitting hard, they practically fade. Don't get me wrong, the bass will wake the neighbors a block over when all the way up, but when your car's electrical system is hemorrhaging while you're doing it, and points earned are soon forgotten! (I'm not really one to crank on it, but testing it out or a track which has a 'harder' baseline sometimes do test it unexpectedly)
Can anyone help me on this with:
1) Can I disconnect my factory amp in my current setup? I only ask because I think I'm on the fringe for power between being okay, and needing a bit more for everything to be okay. I'm not sure if the new head unit still taps the old amp for power, or if the speakers are run through in any filtering, etc, whereby they cut out if the amp is not powered. (and yes, I could just go and try it...though the possibility didn't occur until now, and it's -10 out now in Chicago, so dorking around with it isn't quite in my plans unless it's thought to be a viable solution)
2) Any suggestions on 2nd batteries, or other items which may help? It should be noted that I am running 0 gauge wire for the equipment (no, not from the alternator though, I know the big 3...it's not an over the top system so I didn't think this justified it....plus the exact same setup sans cap was flawless in an old Jetta, only now am I having very noticeable issues), and I think off the top of my head, I have the negative from the amp running to a block on the negative terminal on the battery (I saw that practice was argued against in above posts, but I did have this done at a well known pro shop, and I haven't read any prior posts which blame this grounding technique to dimming lights).
Some more info...
I have an aftermarket system in my w208 with the dreaded 'lights dimming' issue, noticeable on the dashboard. My alternator and battery are new (only temporarily helped the dimming issue following their replacement, though it is less so noticeable since being replaced), and I have hooked up a JVC Kameleon head unit with a Rockford Fosgate 1200 W amp powered off the car battery, 1F cap in between, and 2 12" Infinity subs. I don't crank on this thing given even with the bass down all the way, the lights still dim, and hitting hard, they practically fade. Don't get me wrong, the bass will wake the neighbors a block over when all the way up, but when your car's electrical system is hemorrhaging while you're doing it, and points earned are soon forgotten! (I'm not really one to crank on it, but testing it out or a track which has a 'harder' baseline sometimes do test it unexpectedly)
