Jbell

I don't need to reprogram. I'm running a different engine, which is on standalone.
If do this to the CLK, can I use my stock axles?

What parts should I order?

blackbenzz

You need a SRT8 diff and a custom rear cover/mounts. You probably need to convert to bigger axles as well

Jbell

****? It's not just an internal swap?
Can you provide any more info?
Are they custom axles? Stock replacements?

What about where it makes to my rear hubs?

blackbenzz

You said you have a clk430 not a e55. Your factory diff and axles are smaller. You need to upgrade to m215 diff before swapping gears. I had everything custom made. It will not be cheap or easy to do on your clk430

Jbell

ok, gotcha.

are they any "drop in" ring/pinion optins for my rear end?

I was under the impression i have a 210mm diff.

I don't know much about the various options, and what models are interchangeable. The info is SO hard to come by.

blackbenzz

You have to find a 210 diff that has the gear you want. I believe the c43 has a 210 diff with 3.07 gears

Jbell

thanks.
what are the various diff size/options?

do you have a list/overview?

E63007

Wow, what a great thread you.ve got going here!!! I'm particularly interested since I removed and had rebuilt the Top End (HEADS) of my 2007 E63 (W211 M156) NA just after acquiring it in Dec. 2017. I also rebuilt the Front Suspension including Racing Brake Rotors and pads, F1 Fabrications Upper Front Camber Arms, RMT Front Air Struts as well as Intake manifold, New P/S Pump and HP Hose and reservoir and added a Catchcan made by UPR. I had a good year of fun driving it before the Rear Main Seal started leaking my oil, so after removing the exhaust and Tranny, whereupon I removed and cleaned the Valve Body and flushed out the Cooling lines, and then slapped on a new Seal (using the proper Tool and applying MB Sealant around the outside edge and a dab of assembly lube on the inner ring) I've decided to also address the rear suspension. As such, I'm geared up to replace all rear bushings and add new lower Torque Arms and UPD Tow Arms, Hubs, Flanges, Rotors. .

While I'm at it, after reading these posts about the possibility of changing the rear Diff Final Drive Ratio, I can't help but WANT to do this while "I'm In There!!!" Being mine's an E63 NA from 2007, I can't ever imagine hitting Top Speed with that 7G Tranny so dropping 10mph per gear would be totally acceptable and coupled with the fact I don't have bolts surrounding the rear axles at the diff, I've deduced I had the HAG215, which should allow for me to have the space in the Diff to swap in a slightly larger (3,06) Ring Gear ( From SRT or Chrysler 300, or perhaps a later models C or S63 that come with the 3,06???) However, I don't have an LSD so I'm leaning towards a Quaife as I've used them in my builds in the past in front end SAAB's (Yes, a 93' 9000 Aero and 08' 9-5 Aero) but that doesn't mean I'm opposed to the Wavetrac neither, even though from what I've read they may require some more machining of the diff to fit!! (I ended up going with an M-Factory LSD for 1/2 the price, cryogenically treated, shot peened helical coils!!).

I might mention I have the STAR/DAS/Xentry, so I should be able to do the adaptation after the TCM is programmed.

My real concern is what parts I would need to get aside from the "obvious" parts as "available" on the EPC. I mean the parts for the Axle Seals and Protective Seal are specified as well as the Pinion Nut and Seal, But what ARE NOT specified in EPC are the 3.06 Pinion Side Bearings & Crush Washer (Part No's would greatly appreciated here) . Moreover, if I drop in the LSD, I Question whether I should buy separate bearings for each side or if I should also have some shims at the ready to fit or what?? I realize the CirClips holding the Bearing Races are beefy, but Not Sure how big a tool I would need for this nor am I sure how to remove the pinion. (I ended up fabricating a sufficient Circlip puller by buying 18" pliers from Harbor freight and using a die grinder to slightly thin the sides and then torched the tips, stuck them in a vise and bent them in towards each other. That gets a grip on them but using channel lock pliers with the other hand helps to squeeze the pliers together) Also, I'm not sure if the Pinion needs to be swapped in from the same Diff with the 3,06 or not, even though that would make sense? (Yes, obviously the 3.06 Pinion must be paired with 3.06 Ring Gear!)

As for the TCM, while I was cleaning the Valve Body, I took a picture to notice I have the VGS2 NAG 2 (A 033 545 73 32) with the date of manufacture 19.10.06, so I'm not certain if this can be retuned for the 3,06 Final Drive Ring Gear?? If so, who could I entrust to do the programming of the TCU? Because without this part solved, its no use even attempting this feat! (I seemed to have found a guy that may be able to remotely via TeamViewer alter the TCU Gearing using Vediamo while also using Star Developer to do same to the ECU. Also he indicated he could add a fourth option (A) to the manual selective Tranny button whereas the C/S/M then "A" would appear in the right side of the speedo and would Shift at slightly higher rims?? Moreover, he said he could adjust in 3 more increments the initial response of the gas pedal!!-I'll confirm this once I get my LSD and 3.06 Ring & Pinion installed along with everything else! So far I've only gotten the 3.06 Ring Gear off, trying to figure how to remove the pinion?? I'm thinking torch and a BFH!)

kevm14

Since we are necroposting...

I wanted to say that I think that Diffs Online calculator is not accurate. I have found long ago that you should not go by the tire specs to calculate the diameter because it does not account for the specific tread height or sidewall flex when loaded. Rather, tires have a spec that is revs per mile and this is what you want to use.

Of course I say this for a reason. My car does ~3000 rpm @ 100 and a little over 2000 rpm @ 70. This led me to believe that I have, perhaps, 3.06 gears, but surely not 2.65. But using that Diffs Online calculator, it looks closer to 2.82 perhaps. Guess I just wanted some other opinions on that. I can share the gearing calculator that I made and, again, it bases it on the spec revs/mile of your individual tire, rather than the static size and using that to calculate the diameter (circumference), which I am saying is not accurate.

Maybe the last request would be, what are the cruising RPMs for stock 2.65 gears at, say, 70 and 100?

JoeJErnst

Your numbers confirm that you have stock 2.65 gears, as long as your quoted speeds and RPM's are in 5th gear (.83:1 overdrive) and you are running 26" tall tires. This calculator shows exactly 70 mph @ 2000 RPM and 106 mph @ 3000 RPM.

kevm14

You're right - I made an error on my damn spreadsheet. It was setup for older 4 speeds and I screwed up the formula when I added the 5th gear. The way I found it was because my numbers matched Car and Driver almost exactly for 1st through 4th but 5th was off....sigh.

However, NOW my spreadsheet matches almost exactly to a 2003 Car and Driver article, in all gears. It shows that in 4th at 155 they were turning around 5650 rpm. My spreadsheet shows 5620.

Using Car and Driver, 70 mph should be 2115 rpm in 5th. My spreadsheet shows 2110. Notice both are closer than the online calc (off by over 100 rpm). Anyway, that was my little attempt to redeem myself. Alas, I have 2.65s. Actually, I am fine with them.

Attached my (fixed) spreadsheet. 821 revs/mile for a Continental ExtremeContact Sport in 265/35ZR18.

zwier.z

Hello, I bought the wavetrac LSD
and SRT8 3.06 gears
to fit it in my w208 clk55
I had to make some modification to the cover
but, IDK what bearings to be fit ?
any help

E63007

Can someone here that's installed the 3.06 Ring & Pinion with an LSD into their 215 Getrag Rear Diff let me know if or how the OEM Axles can be attached internally after the install of a LSD since the Circlip which holds the axle in place in an OEM Open Diff can no longer be used?? Will the Axles be "floating" once the LSD is installed?? This is a concern especially since there 215 Getrag Axles do not have bolts affixing the axle to the differential but do have a Circlip at the internal end holding it from being forced laterally. WIS Calls for the Axle to be removed by way of using a wrench to hold up against the Diff to protect it and a prybar levered against the wrench to pry out the axle which pops off the Circlip internally. (This method worked beautifully BTW)

chawkins2001

They won't be floating, you need to get circlips that work with your new lsd, axles, ring and pinion. I found circlips for my Richmond 3.23 gear and wavetrac from an online machine shop.

E63007

So I guess I have to mount/attach each axle to the LSD internally with Circlips before mounting the Diff with the front Cross Member. Also, I'll have to bolt on the Diff Cover ( with RTV ) beforehand as it needs to slip vertically upwards in order to attach it to the rear mount points.

Question, how did any of you guys unscrew the Pinion Nut! Is it a matter of setting the parking break first and using a breaker bar and floor jack? I've already removed my carrier on one side to nenew the lower thrust Arm bush and have removed the e-brakes on the other side!! Yikes!!! (Sticking two bolts in the holes of the Flange along with using a long prybar seems the easiest option)